Sure can, Quick
A bent push rod will cause a loose rocker
A loose rocker has no way to bend a push rod, there is no pressure.
One foot-pound of torque is a force of one pound applied one foot from the object's axis of rotation.
ANS 2 - pounds per foot and 'Torque' wrenches are very important in rebuilding many auto parts. -For instance, every bolt in a cylinder head must be very accurately torqued to a very particular specification. The torque wrench and knowledge of 'foot/pounds' allows you to do this.
it depends if you have someone with you and your mode of transport
Better heat distribution. The exhaust valve sees a lot more heat.
There are several factors to consider. (I owned a '72 Cheyenne)
1 - Originality (short or long bed, short fetch a higher price) 2 - The part of the country you reside and where you plan to sell it. 3- Nothing less than 2500.00 and as much as 15000.00 4 - Best advice is to do your research, you obviously have access to a great tool.
compare on autotrader.com
2500 is a lot of money for a 72,it would have to be in exceptional shape. here in Tennessee they go for anywhere between 850 and 1500. unless its a show truck, then the price is negosable.
No sealants are necessary. Worst case scenario, you would use hi-temp.
Mopar (Chrysler dealer parts departments ) stock a RTV made especially for transmission pan sealing. It is used alone ( no gasket ) on certain Chrysler transmissions. FWD in cars and vans mainly.
What type of engine is 14093638
ALCOHOL=HIGH COMPRESSION=STARTUP COUNTER-TORQUE
Something to consider is the engine startup counter-torque and the ignition system you're using. You may need a separate ignition switch and starter button. You leave the ignition switch off, spin the engine, and once it's up to speed, you hit the ignition switch. This will allow the starter to spin the engine without the counter-torque. High compression engines and Nitro-methane engines are especially succeptable to startup counter-torque. You may also be able to delay the engine timing until you start the engine, then return it to its' correct timing.
Starter is not disengaging properly..... maybe a bad bendix drive or your ignition switch return spring is weak or you have the wrong flex plate or starter.
The mesh between the pinion gear on the starter and flywheel needs to be checked. You can sometime pry out the starter drive into mesh with a screwdriver. Or you may have to remove the return spring located behind the solenoid, then reinstall the starter on the block. This allows you to pull out the drive to check mesh. The backlash between two of the teeth should be about .020-.030". Shims are available to adjust this. Just make sure the teeth don't clash.
Some aftermarket starters have mounting blocks that are mismachined and will never work right. Some ring gears have been found to be welded onto flexplates off-center. creating a wobble.
Use the remote Ford-type starter solenoid wired to a separate ignition switch. To make this work, the starter motors solenoid has to have a bypass link or wire added from the BAT terminal to the start terminal. This makes the starter hot and only needs power from the remote mounted Ford solenoid to engage.
Just check your timing, you should be able to retard the timing some and this will help. Also what compression ratio are you running in this?
Alcohol burns faster, and does not need the spark set so far ahead like gass does.
If one of the above doesn't fix it, check for a balance problem.. Both flex-plate and balancer. Did you check the run-out on the flex-plate as you accelerated the engine?
I have heard of cranks where the surface isn't square with the c/l on crank.
It really depends on what the wire goes to, but 99% of the time, there is a short in the circuit made by the wire. It may not be directly where it is hot, but somewhere in the system. A short is where a powered wire is directly tied to ground before encountering a load. Grab a tester and start checking wires. It's a pain but it has to be done or it could catch fire or just drain your battery.
First you have to dissconnect the positive battery cable. Then you have to remove the 2 5/8 bolts that hold the starter in. Then you can move the starter towards the front of the truck and swing it down nose first. Then you have to remove the thick power cable 1/2 in nut. Then the small solenoid cable. Then completely remove the starter and place it in the box the new on came it. Take the new starter and connect the solenoid wire and power wire. Place the nose back in to the hole where the fly wheel is and slightly turn the first 5/8 in bolt back in to place. Then the second 5/8 in bolt. Then tighten both down. Connet the positive battery cable and Your done.
Chevrolet first built a 4.7l V8 in 1917. But when merged they merged with General Motors in 1918, discontinued production until 1955, when V8 production resumed with 4.3l V8 for the C1 Corvette.
(NOTE: Chevrolet did not build the first V8)
Call your local GM dealer with the seventeen digit vin number and they will
be able to tell you.
NEW ANSWER: Yours has a 4L60E in it.
The 1/2 tons used the 4L60E and the 3/4 tons and up used the 4L80E.
They quit using the 700R4 around 1991 ( I think )
The 4L60E and the 4L80E will not interchange due to the wiring harness and ECM / computer.
Probably not. Should be able to go to about .510 or .520 without interference.
the library has chilton repair manuals,i just copy the page,pages that i need for .10 cents a copy
I do not know about Chilton books, but the HAYNES manuals DO NOT CONTAIN A VACUUM DIAGRAM!!!!!
This is easy. The distributor cap is to the left of the engine if you are facing the radiator. The distributor cap is tightened down by three small bolts. It should come off easily. The rotor is directly beneath this and has a screw holding it in place under the back edge. The rotor is also very easy to replace. Rememember to mark your plug wires as you unhook them from the cap. Then simply connect the wires to the new cap and scre it down. I got a new cap for about $37 at Autozone. Have fun.
The cost of a rebuild can vary quite a 'bit depending on what you need to replace, the level of machining work that needs to be done, and obviously, who you bring it to and how much they charge. A typical rebuild will consist of cleaning all the parts to be re-used (including the engine block, cylinder heads, crankshaft, and connecting rods, which is usually done by the machinist). Milling the cylinder heads, boring the block, and sometimes turning the crank under, to ensure consistency, and a good fit well within tolerances. Usually it will also be left to a machinist to install all the bearings and plugs in the engine, as well as pressing the pins into the piston, and installing the piston on the rods. A lot of this can be done by a good mechanic as well, as long as they have the proper tools and machines to do so. The rest of the assembly can usually be done with a basic garage setup, just so long as the builder knows how to properly lubricate the parts, torque everything down, adjust the valve lash, and if in charge of the first firing and break in, properly adjust timing, check pressures, and look for any problems. But to address your original question of how much it costs.... Rebuild kits for Chevy 350 engines range anywhere from $400 to $800 for basic setups, and should include most, if not every part you'll need to replace (bearings, plugs, seals, new pistons, rings, cam, etc.) These kits do not include things like water pumps, alternators, belts, manifolds, etc. If you are building for higher performance, expect to pay at least in the $1,500 - $3,000 range and up, depending on how much power you want to make. Basic cleaning and machining by the machinist usually doesn't exceed $300 - $500, but if the machinist finds other things wrong than the basics, expect to pay more. Re-seating valves, and rebuilding cylinder heads can typically run you anywhere from $200 - $600, not including parts........just to give you an example. Anyway, to bring this ramble to a close, on the low end, I would expect to pay at least $1,500 - $2,000 for a decent rebuild, and on the high end (as long as your talking basic, not performance), expect around $3,000 and up. Keep in mind, again, this does not usually include parts like water pumps, belts, fluids, etc. And you'll also have to keep in mind extra expenses like removal and re-installation of the engine, and some places also charge for the disassembly of the engine as well. Your best bet is to talk with a few local, reputable mechanics and/or machinists, and they could give you a better idea of the service they offer, the prices they charge (as a lot of that varies by region, etc.), and what sort of turnaround you'd be looking at. Hope this was some help, and good luck!
That would be the FACTORY A/C DELCO FILTER. If it wasn't any good then Chevy would not have used it.
firing order 18436572 placement on the cap 1 is located two poles counterclockwise from connector port. connector port should be at three o clock position facing the drivers front fender New to Chev v8s whats a connector port?? I think it was to be "post". There are 8 brass or aluminum posts on the top of the distributor that are "fired" by the rotor. The firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. My HEI distributor has number 1 as the first post colockwise past the external plugs and at about 5 o'clock when the timing is set to 10-12 degrees BTDC. Remove your number one plug attach a cylinder compression gage and rotate your ing
low oil pressure or the seal on the roller tappet is old and it takes the roller tappet a minute to pressurize again.
The idle speed and idle mixture are the first things to adjust and are very easy. If there is an off-idle stumble or a bog, you'll need to make adjustments to the accelerator pump and possibly the power valve to suit your engine. Here is a link to a Holley manual that explains it in detail: http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/Carburetor%20Tech%20Info.pdf
The order is on the stock intake manifold. It is 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2
1,3,5,7 is on the left bank(driver side) and 2,4,6,8 is on the right bank. The distributor rotates clockwise.
If you are standing in front of your vehicle looking at the motor the #1 plug is on the left side closest to you (left front). #2 is the 2nd one back on the left side, 3 and 4 being the last one all the way in the back on the left side. The #5 is right front 6, 7, and #8 is the right rear. Distributor rotation is counter clockwise.
oil leaking from the front of the engine. harmonic balancer doesnt have a seal it does however have a rubber bushing in it this is to take out the virations caused by engine running,hence the name harmonic balancer . you may however have a bad front crankshaft seal that is bad this will leak oil at bottom front of engine so if you are talking bout rubber in harmonic balancer, you will get ruff vibrations from engine when running, also can throw the timing out
you will have a MAJOR oil leak.....
1973 350 Corvette. 76cc chambers. 2.02`` intake valves 1.6`` exhaust valves.
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