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Are there particular circumstances when it hesitates? (engine hot or cold?, damp outside? certain speeds?, from a start?, etc. How many miles are on the car? Is the check engine light come on? When was the last fuel filter installed? When was the last time the throttle body was cleaned? or air induction service done? Open the hood, look at the back of the engine on the driver's side, is there oil seaping about 6 inches from the top of the engine? What did the spark plugs look like when you changed them? When were the wires last changed? Do you keep an eye on the oil level? Does it consume oil? What is the 8th digit of the vin? these answers will help.

Check for leaking hoses such as vacuum hose. Check the spark plug wires, are they connected properly, are they too old. take out all your spark plugs and check each one to see if they have enough gap at the end of it. not enough gap can cause a miss fire. do a fuel pressure check, with a fuel pressure gauge. if your car hesitates during start up, check you camshaft sensor. if you have a diesel car, check you glue plugs. its located beside spark plug

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My code was 4123 I don't know if this will help you any but I pulled my stereo out and the code was under it. So I wrote it on a piece of paper and taped it under my ash tray.I called the dealer and asked how to get it. Try 3241

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what daewoo. espero, nexia which one there all different.

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the relay should be under the hood on the top of the firewall or next to the main fuse box on the wheel well

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I just did one today for my uncles 2000 Leganza 2.2. The trick is that the belt goes around the tensioner then the crankshaft pulley. It should make an s from the bottom of the alt. pulley to the tensioner then to the crank.

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This worked for me: open the car with the door key. Sit in and shut the door. Now operate the door lock using the lock tab on the drivers door four times very quickly ((lock then open four times). Press the close button on the fob. If the door locks again, you've done it. May well work for other cars too.

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look at how to set timing mark for 99 daewoo,explained it there

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ON a 1999 Daewoo Leganza the thermostat is located on the upper radiatior hose. Unlike most cars this car has a thermostat that is integrated into the housing. You must purchase the housing with the thermostat built in. It is removed by removing the 2 female torx screws that hold the unit in place. The thermostat is expensive. Some dealers or auto parts want an avg of 125 for that thermostat so please make sure that is the problem before you purchase it. You can sometimes get lucky and find someone posting the unit on e bay.

Best luck I have had for any parts for a daewoo is a location in Puerto Rico.

The site for this is http://daewooautopartspr.com/

Call them. I got a thermostat for $60 among many other parts.

O'Reilly Auto has them for 36.99. They are online.

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You can get the replacement key at Home Depot, is the car key # 27R

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Daewoo Leganza timing belt installation.

Dear owner, I work at an automotive repair shop in Gainesville, FL which is right next to a car rental who use Daewoo's for their rental cars, I've done close to 100 timing belts on various models of Daewoo cars.

Required tools:

13mm open end wrench10mm shallow and deep socket8mm socketlong flathead screwdriver17mm deep socketT50 torx socket1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensionsE10 inverted torx sockets6mm Allen wrench15mm open end wrench7mm socket12mm open end wrench14mm socket12mm socket8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets19mm socketprybarneedle nose pliers

If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pullys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.

Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pully ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pully) on the camshaft pullys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pully with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pully with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pullys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhause Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pully, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponsing line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.

In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.

One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it.

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it is in the same place..upper hose coming from radiator..all leganzas are the same in engine..since 1999..by the way ..this is a good car..and parts can get easily ..the engine can use part of isuzu.hunday.even toyota...i am living in el salvador and is easy cake find parts,,you only need a good mechanic..

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Get a manual on your car to do the job right.

HI, I got a CD ROM manual for my 2001 Daewoo on Ebay. It is a little harder to browse as you would a paper manual but is pretty complete and has a good index in the back. Here is a link to his store. http://cgi.eBay.com/ebaymotors/DAEWOO-LEGANZA-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL_W0QQitemZ300203634192QQihZ020QQcategoryZ6759QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

James

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No direct answer but this may help.

I have changed the brake light switch on my 1998 Leganza Automatic.

The switch is located above the brake/clutch pedal. It is a normally-off push switch which is activated as the brake pedal is depressed. Turn switch through 90 degrees to release it. Unplug cable harness. Replace with new switch and reconnect to socket. It is most likely that you will have to adjust the striking rod so the brake lights respond correctly.(Simply release the locknut, adjust in or out and tighten locknut again.

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My 1999 Leganza switch is in the same place as the previous answer. This switch, when defective, causes symptoms such as the gear shift locking in park.

If the brake switch is becoming defective constantly, you might want to check brake lights - they may be drawing too much power wich might be burning out the switch

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depends on your driving 2 days to a week. there is a procedure to do its too long to write on here

Look under OBDII.com code po404 and there is a link to a drive cycle site that will tell you

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You may need a new cam sensor. I needed one for my Nubira. There was a recall on the camshaft sensore which caused the check engine light to come on. Bring it to a local Daewoo delaer and tell them about the recall and it will be fixed for free. I'm sure the engine is there, but the problem need to be diagnosed. Here is some insight: Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. Disconnecting the battery can create other headaches and will not likely solve your dilemma. Best bet is to contact the local snap-on dealer and have him refer you to a known good shop that specializes in this technology-he will know. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. This is an needed in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights

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Don't change it... fix it. It nis located under the dash, easily accessible laying upside down: the brake pedal pushes it. It has a lock nut for adjustment. undo the lock nut a couple turns, disconnect the electrical connector, and unscrew it from the threaded tab. Once removed, you pry it apart. You will see two sets of contacts, one fresh , the other set rather toasted. Use an emery board to polish the toasted set of stationary contacts, and either flip over the moving ones to expose a fresh face, or clean them with the emory board also. Reassemble, and screw back into the tab. you will have the correct adjustment when the brake pedal tab just fully pushes the button all the way in. Reconnect the electrical...it only goes one way, and tighten the locking nut back up against the tab, hand tight . This is infinitely cheaper than trying to buy or find one ! Look up under the dash, along the brake pedle and locate the switch, Disconnect the wire and remove the switch, reverse the process to install the new one.

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#17 it's in your manual..it's under *ABS

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I just had my Daewoo Leganza brake light switch replaced. It goes under the brake pedal. and now my brake lights work fine.

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check other daewoo with same engine size 1.6,1.8 etc.also check to see if any other manufacturer crosses daewoo engines. for example ford and Mazda use same engines in different cars and trucks like the ranger and the b2000 have the same motor etc.

Blocks are from GM so may be a starting point from there.

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Had the same problem myself, finally solved by removing a small screw from each side of the radio. The problem is these are located behind the trim but still very close to the front of the radio, I had to lie on my back with my head in each footwell in turn and reaching up the side of the radio into the dash removed them with a crancked screwdriver and lots of swearing! .

Why struggle when all you have to do is take out 5 crossheaded screws out 4 in speedo trim 2 top 2 bottom and 1 in deep recess in cubby hole past heater switches

then pull carefully by hand the plastic facia as far as you can

reaching in pull off security wire fixing and heater wire connection block

this will give you room to get to the fixing screws on both sides of radio

then you can pull out and guide it out to disconnect radio

i did this recently to my 02 plate matiz and it worked for me

replace wires in holders gently with palm of hand locate facia into position and replace screws no swearing just a little gentle brute force needed

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you have to replace the appropiate fuse labeled "cigarette lighter" in the fuse box inside your car around the driver dash side.

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Blown fuse or defective brake light switch. The switches have to be carefully broken apart to repair and then make sure that the contacts and springs are clean and are actually contacting the case contacts when pushed out.They are plastic pieces of crap and be careful when popping them apart.You have to pay a lot for them.