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They generally do not keep the keys, as it would be too many keys to keep track of. Each vehicle usually has a special code that can be used to cut a duplicate key for your vehicle. They do not need an original key to do so.

They can keep it, and I'm sure they would feel just as uncomfortable giving back your car without having a key to it. Car repossession is not the first thing that takes place, it's the last thing they do when all else fails.

They seem to think this may happen again and I am sure the key is not in the possession of the repo man, but the financial institution who hired him, for future use if necessary as they still hold a lien.

Most repo agents have master keys to vehicles. Each model and make have what is known as a master key that will work on all of them. Did you know that the key to your car may actually start another of the same year make and model?

NOT LEGALLY. Who would want the responsibility of having the key to a car they don't own?? What if it gets stolen?? The cops drag you in wanting to know where you were. MOST financial institutions DONT have keys to the cars they finance. Its all they can do to keep the paperwork straight so how could they keep up with keys?? Give me a break.

I own a repo company and each state has different laws for everything. you need to figure out what the laws are in your state. But in my state and probably many others as well I do not have a right to keep keys to a vehicle that isn't registered in my name or loaned to my buy the owners once the repossession has taken place. Not to mention I don't want them. After we get a car we move on to the next car we don't't dwell on the fact that we might have to get it again. If the lender is nice enough to give you a nother chance good for you, but stay on top of things our we will be back with or without your keys!

yes, some companies can use the key to decipher the actual code number, then give to the lien holder to keep on file, out here it ca, it comes in handy, most people out here get there car repo'd two separate times, sometimes three

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because the ecu compansates the engine speed for the load..as it does for electrical drag etc .Gone are the days of engines stalling under load!

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with ur hands

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Under the oil filter

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wher can i get to download for free a manual for a daewoo matiz 2002

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You can get a free on line manual from the main GM motors site in the USA, it also has a useful diagnostic tool that I have used several times. Hope this helps.

Otherwise you can also download it from this location. http://rs419.rapidshare.com/files/240150711/Daewoo_20Matiz.zip

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A mechanically competent person with a good set of spanners/sockets and a ball joint splitter can replace a matiz (original model) clutch.It will take all day and is fiddly getting to certain of the nuts and bolts, especially at the back of the engine compartment. You will need to work from above and beneath the engine compartment.Make sure axle stands are safe and secure and car chocked.Download the workshop manual on line for free and follow the instructions first for the removal of driveshafts and transaxle assembly, then clutch replacement sections.Tip. you do have to remove the drive shaft inner ends but not outer ends, the drive axle to hub caulking bolt does not have to be removed as stated but the hub lower nut and steering ball joint need to be removed along with the front under longitudinal frames. By pulling the hub outward the driveshaft inner end can be levered free and the driveshaft twisted down and forward (turn the hub assembly so as not to put strain on the joints and rubber boots) protect the released end with a bag to stop ingress of dirt and suspend out of the way.removal of air filter, battery and tray (worth doing the tray as it gives better access), gear change outer cables, electric connectors, speedo cable nut and clutch cable, is straight forward. Removal of starter motor mount bolts and access to the gear change bracket bolts is fiddly but doable (knuckle scrapes and anglo saxon expletives will occur!).The remaining bolts are easy.you do not need to remove the exhaust pipe to manifold nuts as there is enough play when tilting the engine to remove the transaxle assembly.The engine as a whole does need to be tilted down at the trransaxle end to give enough room to remove the box. I found that the whole supported itself on the remaining three engine mounts with a little help of a jack under the engine just in case. In fact I had to release the bolt from the engine block lower mounting (by the alternator) to actually get enough tilt.The transaxle should now pull/lever straight off and can be lowered to the ground with a little deft twisting. I would say it weighs the same as a 25 kg bag of sand.Clutch plate, cover and release bearing replacement is straight forward but you must ensure the new clutch plate is well centered. If it is a little bit out of centre you will not be able to reattach the transaxle assembly.Make or borrow a centring tool. I made one out of a hotpoint washing machine transit bolt ten mm copper tubing (thats the size of the flywheel input shaft bearing) and a 42mm plastic pushfit plumbing blanking plug! Be ingenious using all those "I'll keep that it might be useful one day" bits and pieces in your garage.At this point I stopped for lunch.Replacing the transaxle assembly was helped by a second pair of hands pushing it up into place by jack whilst I positioned it in generally the right position. With a little zumba wiggle and push it will eventually fit in place - if you centred the clutch plate correctly. Get a couple of bolts back in to hold in place and reassembly is a reverse of dismantling.Don't forget to refill the gearbox with oil.Check you have'nt trapped any electric cables.Be methodical about checking all bolts are replaced correctly not only on the transaxle assembly but also the front suspension. You will be tired by now it is easy to make a mistake. Have a cup of tea and check twice.Now the scary bit turning the ignition, listening for strange noises and taking her for a test ride. I was pleasantly surprised, all went well.It took me all day 9-7pm with 3 breaks totalling an hour. I had the help of my 15 yr old son for half a day - until his girlfriend arrived. I worked on my driveway and for 2hrs it pissed down with rain apart from that all was as I expected. I laid in the bath afterwards easing my 52 yr old joints, thinking of the hundreds of pounds saved on the garage quotes. Ahhh bliss.Total cost = 10hrs and £60 for parts (bought online and delivered next day from the excellent eurocarparts.com).Am I a mechanic? No. Just a competent DIYer.Tools required 8,10,12,14,17,19,24mm sockets set of similar spanners various pliers and screwdrivers, a ball joint splitter and home made clutch centring tool.Rags and containers for nuts and bolts.

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General 1. Check for markings BEFORE you start removing the belt. Disassembly 2. Disconnect the battery 3. Remove the air filter housing 4. Remove the right front wheel 5. Remove the splashboard (?) 6. Remove the alternator belt 7. Remove the power steering belt 8. Remove the power steering pump 9. Remove the top transmission belt cover 10. Remove the crankshaft pulley 11. Remove the bottom transmission belt cover 12. Put the markings inline 13. Disconnect the water pump 14. Remove the transmission belt Assembling 15. Check the markings 16. Fit the transmission belt 17. Rotate the water pump to tense the belt (tool: J-42492) 18. Fasten the water pump 19. Fit the �blocking tool� (fig. 1. see bottom for instructions) 20. Turn the engine 2 turns by hand 21. Put the markings inline 22. Remove the blocking tool 23. Turn the water pump CCW to set the markings on the fastener (fig. 2. see bottom for instructions) 24. Fasten the water pump 25. Turn the engine 2 turns by hand 26. Check the markings again 27. Reassemble all previously disassembled parts in reversed order Fastening Torques: - Water pump: 10 Nm - Crankshaft pulley: 95 Nm + 30� + 15� - Transmission belt covers: 10Nm Special tools: - Tensioning tool: J-42492 An illustration with markings etc. can be found here: http://www.carparts-cat.com/nl/webkat.asp?SID=213701966736822109&ROOT=1 It�s either Dutch or German, so follow this walkthrough (Dutch): On the top of the page, click �onderhoudsgegevens� (=maintenance info") Click Daewoo, Then Lanos (KLAT), and then the type of your choice. Now you get a screen with 4 options: Inspektieaanwijzingen = Directions for inspection Intervalterugstelling = Interval reset Vulhoeveelheid = Liquids Riemen = Belts (this is the one!) Typeplaatje = Identification plates J-42492 an equivelant is the Draper 31486 available at DenLors

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They make a SPECIAL glue/grease that goes on the back of the pad- NOT THE ROTOR SIDE.also MAKE SURE ALL the ANTI- RATTLE clips are on the pads & the pad Mounts.(end where the pad slides)

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In a 2009 matiz you must gently pop out the housing (silver) from above the heating controls all the way up to the dials. It is one piece. Start at the bottom and move gently upwards. When this is done you will see the screws to remove both left and right. There are brackets screwed into the sides of the head unit which you will need to remove also. If you want to replace with a different model the bad news is you will need a new housing and cable adaptor (from halfords for about £12). Its a pain in the backside but can be done. Once you have the new parts, follow your common sense and then gently replace the housing from the top first and then applying equal pressure all the way down until it clicks fully in. Hope this helps, wish I had found an answer before I started! :)

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It is located on the sump pan under the engine. It is the large single nut at the lowest point.

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It's at the front, right side, just visible by peering down and rearwards, about in line with the front turn indicator. I have not yet changed mine, but it's obvious that it is NOT acessible from below, so have to reach down, beside/behind radiator. REMOVE YOUR WATCH ! It needs a small hand - no large gorillas could manange it. It is mounted horizontally, with its base facing forwards. Then I guess it's just a case of hoping it is not too tight, and your wrist is strong enough. Good luck ! Terry Reed its on the front of the engine below the exhaust manifold (the engine end of the exhaust where it splits into 3), access is improved if you remove the airfilter assembly (you only need a flathead screwdriver and a small 10ml socket to do this), and also remove the exhaust manifold heatguard (again a 10ml socket). Once you've figured out these bits and how to remove them, you'll have more arm room to throw at the oil filter. Drain the oil from the sump of the warm engine first and having then refitted the sump plug and new filter you are ready to pour in the new oil. -- another tip -- Don't bother removing the air filter assembly or the manifold heatguard. I found it easy enough to do if you stand alongside the drivers wing facing in the same direction as the car. Reach down with your left hand and grasp the filter and unscrew it. It should be on tight so should be fairly easy to undo. You won't be able to see what you are doing as your arm will block your vision and also you are facing away from the car but it shouldn't be too hard to screw the new one on. cheers laughing_cavalier. -- another tip --- Dont forget to smear a thin film of oil over the new oil filter rubber seal. If its dry and you have done a good job of cleaning away all the excess old oil in the filter housing, the seal will snag and you will end up with a slow oil leak from the filter. -- it is on the right of the generator" dynamo" and it has a special belt in garages specilaized in oil change and greasing

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On the driver side under the bonnet right side wall

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have lost code for my pug and i dont know how2 disarm it can u help

Think you have to remove drivers seat to get at wiring

Think you should sell the car on Ebay, and attach a rear spoiler

To unlock the immobilizer there is a button with lines on it near the ignition switch, as you turn the ignition press this button, it will turn off the immobilizer.

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You must remove the lower engine mount bracket, this held by three bolts to the block. the engine mount bush must be disconnected.

If you do have ramps this can be done by jacking and placing fixed jacks under the car. remove the driver side front wheel, and the splash cover( it takes some twisting but the cover is flexible )

Even after these components ghave been removed it is still a tight squeeze so some manouvering of the alternator is required. It is is also adviseable to remove the harness connections prior to the removal of the alternator. I have doen this a couple of times and the hardest part is the engine bracket as one of the bolts is almost a blind assembly and will need patience and kids removed due to the nasty words that eminate. Good luck

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2.750''

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Had the same problem myself, finally solved by removing a small screw from each side of the radio. The problem is these are located behind the trim but still very close to the front of the radio, I had to lie on my back with my head in each footwell in turn and reaching up the side of the radio into the dash removed them with a crancked screwdriver and lots of swearing! .

Why struggle when all you have to do is take out 5 crossheaded screws out 4 in speedo trim 2 top 2 bottom and 1 in deep recess in cubby hole past heater switches

then pull carefully by hand the plastic facia as far as you can

reaching in pull off security wire fixing and heater wire connection block

this will give you room to get to the fixing screws on both sides of radio

then you can pull out and guide it out to disconnect radio

i did this recently to my 02 plate matiz and it worked for me

replace wires in holders gently with palm of hand locate facia into position and replace screws no swearing just a little gentle brute force needed

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35 litres

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punchline for bajaj kristal is " Inspiring Nation"

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multi point fuel injection system