If the car has the original Rochester carb on it, the filter is inside it. Follow the fuel line to the carb. There you will see what looks like a large hex nut. Loosen that and inside there is the filter available at any auto parts store.
IF YOU REALLY DO HAVE THIS Q IN THE CORRECT SECTION..... the lights have come on automatically because of the automatic safety inertia switch turning on the hazard lights, automatically unlocking all doors and turning off fuel injection system immediately you got stuck in the beemer!! Drive more carefully.....To cancel the auto switch after checking it is absolutely safe to do so, reset by pressing it.....its mounted under the bonnet in the right or left hand corner, or under the dash at left or right or centre or occassionally under driver's seat depending on year/ model....it's got a soft rubber cover over the button- make sure everything is turnoff and it's SAFE!! to turn fuel back on!
Find the upper radiator hose then follow it to where it is clamped to the engine. That mounting is the thermostat cover; remove it and the thermostat is inside. When you replace it make very sure you put the new one in correctly. It should be marked or have a picture of how it faces in the instructions.
Push the menu botton on the radio intill you see hour on clock. Then use the SEL with up and down arrows on it to set the hour. Then hit the menu botton again to mins. and use the same SEL botton up and down to set the mins. When finished hit the menu button one last time.
hey , well open the hood , disconnect the battery .get uder the front of the vehicle. you should know what a starter looks like ........ theres a small bolt holding the wire and a dirt protector that must come off first. then you'll be able to access the two 15mm bolts , you'll need a socket extention to reach the one in the back. their parralel to each other/ front bolt back bolt/ then a 5/8 socket to remove the feed wire from the battery to the starter unit and i think a 1/4" to remove the smaller terminal screw. take care in removing, there's a little bit of a shift and twist to get it out- remember too that you need to check both pos n neg wire connections to the batery, clean them and also check continuity of cables.... good luck. takes me about 15-20 mins to remove
The turn signal flasher is located under the break lamps, u must remove the gray carpeting to have access to the lamps and the flashers. By twisting the black sockets u have access to the light bulbs.
you need a new battery. if battery has been replaced and this still does not solve the problem, you must have had the bad battery for too long and it ruined the
If the new battery doesn't solve the problem you can have check the battery cables, make sure they have a clean tight connection. Also the problem could be with your starter also.
spray wd40 on all electrics inc inside distributor cap plugs and ht leads , if no luck get a tin of cold start and spray directly into engone intake , check also foe water in fuel if damp this usually works
where is the airconditor drain hose on a 1999 Pontiac Bonneville
[check your starter. that was the problem with mine. 94 G20] Original Answer
We just fixed my sister's '95 G20 start problem and ours was a recessed pin in a connector in the starter relay wire (the small wire that's attached to the starter). but there are a few tests you can do;
1. This one is simple: make sure everything is hooked up like you were going to start it on a normal day, then turn your headlights on and try to start it. If it sounds like it tries and the headlights dim (even a little) it's likely a dead battery. if there's a click/no click and then nothing and headlights don't dim, you've got an open somewhere in the starter circuit.
2. If the engine cranks over no problem, but just won't start firing and driving itself, you've likely got either a dead fuel pump or a clogged fuel line/filter.
3. have someone listening under the hood when you turn the key to the on position to make sure the clutch inhibitor relay is clicking (should click once when the key is turned to the on position).
If you're a Do-It-Yourselfer, here's some solutions you can try. If not, take it to a mechanic and tell him/her your findings and let them go from there.
1. If you have a multimeter/voltmeter and ohmmeter, you can investigate an open fairly easily-BE CAREFUL with the voltmeter test as you will have to have the battery plugged in. start by pulling the starter fuse (if it's like my sister's, it'll be tucked underneath the front driverside quarter panel under the hood, (should be able to access it just behind the battery). you can do an ohm test on the fuse itself to make sure it's good (if it's not transparent, otherwise just look at the metal arch inside it to see if it's separated). then a voltage test with the red lead in one side of the fuse plug and the other on the negative side of the battery or a good ground like the frame or the engine; you should get 11.9v-12.4v. (if you don't get voltage try moving the red lead to the other side of the fuse plug). Do you get voltage? Yes: your issue is farther down the line, closer to the starter motor. No: you have an open between your battery and the fuse. continue testing this way all the way to the starter motor. once on the other side of the ignition switch you can switch to ohm testing, just make sure the key is in the OFF position or you'll fry your tester. Here's a couple wiring diagrams for manual or automatic transmission:
The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library
U disconnect the wire @ the sending unit-the gauge should either go 2 empty or full THEN ground the sending unit wire & the gauge should do the opposite IF the guage does this then U need A SENDING UNIT-NOT A Guage.check with the key on 4 a short period of time.BE VERY CAREFUL IF ITS THE SENDING UNIT
If you want to clear the codes to shut off the check engine light you can disconnect the negative battery post for a minute, this will clear the memory but if you haven't fixed the reason the light came on in the first place it will only come back on again.
First you must remove the upper portin of the fan shroud. Remove the belt, take a pully puller and pull the pully off the pump while it is still in place.undo the lines out of the steering sector(remember the high pressure line goes back in the hole closest to the engine block) Remove the three bolts behind the pulley, then remove the two nuts on the bracket behind the pump one is under the manifold and the other is on the bottom of the block. THen take the pump out remove lines and hardware and place on the new pump. WHen installing the new pump, put the pump back in place and the press the pully back on after you have put all the bolts back in the pump.
First, you will need to gently pry the dash trim panel off. It is one panel the whole way from the radio, over the steering wheel, and over to the headlight switch. Use a flat bladed screwdriver or other similar tool and gently work pulling each push fastener out. Once the panel is removed, there are several small bolts or screws on each side of the radio. Remove these and the radio should slide out. Once you remove the wire harness plug and antenna lead the radio should be free. If you are replacing with a factory style, installation is reverse. With other radios you should be able obtain a harness plug adapter. email@example.com
When this was happening on my 1999 3.8 Liter Intrigue, I suspected the starter switch, but when I took it in to have it looked at, all it was, was a worn out Battery. They replaced the Battery and the problem went away.
The instrument cluster lights have their own fuse. It's a 5 amp at the bottom center of the fuse block. When the lights are on, the radio draws lamp power from the instrument cluster. This allows you to dim the brightness of the radio display with the other internal lamps.
Well luckily for you I'm working on a 2000 Bonneville non supercharged car right now. Same code... I can hear a hissing noise from the passenger side of the engine.... found the actual map sensor has come apart.... maybe this will be your problem. Good luck.
you must remove the puel tank. the fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank. remove the battery cable, remove fuel tank, remove gauge assembly from inside the fuel tank, disconnect wiring harness replace fuel pump motor on inside of gauge unit, reverse procedure to complete job. if you are mechanically inclined you can complete the job for the cost of the fuel tank, $50.00 to $75.00.
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If it's the same as a '98 Bonneville SSE 3.8, it's - 1 4 5 2 3 6 If it's the same as a '98 Bonneville SSE 3.8, it's - 1 4 5 2 3 6
I now have the answer (no thanks to this forum)
No there is no "big" or "small" block Pontiacs. The terms "small" and "big" block are Chevy & ford terms. Pontiac blocks were thesame physical size from the 1955 287 right through the last 400 cast in 1978. All blocks had a bore centerline of 4.62 inches, which puts them right between the small block Chevy (4.40 inches) and the big block Chevy (4.84 inches). There were short deck versions built- the 1969-1970 303 race engine (about 25 made), and the production 265,301 built from 1977-1981.
ALL 287,316,326,350,347,370,389,400,421,428,455 engines are the same exterior block dimensions.
remove the headlight housing, its only the two bolts on top of the housing, and the turn signal is the white connector, twist it closkwise and pull it straight out, the bulb is a 3157