• Check coolant level
• Heater core may be plugged or restricted
• Heater core may be air bound
• Thermostat may not be operating properly
• Water pump may not be circulating coolant

I have a 2001 Windstar which had the same problem. At first when you adjusted the temperature selector you could hear a slight thumping noise coming from the temperature selector. I dismantled everything to get to where the noise came from. After hours of messing around, this is what I found. In front of the housing for the heater and air conditioning, right behind the radio, there is a white plastic module about the size of a pack of cigarettes. It is mounted with 3 screws I believe. This unit has a wiring harness on it that has to be unplugged for removal. It also has an D shape actuator about 1 1/2 inches long protruding from the back side that fits into a damper for the heater core. This unit has a circuit board and motor that rotate the actuator, which in turn opens and closes the damper allowing the air to pass through the heater core. What happens is that the motor drives a couple of plastic gears that strip and do longer drive the actuator. I believe the unit is called a heater damper module, dealer item only. In my neck of the woods it's about $75

When removing radio it is MUCH easier to buy "radio removal tool" from Autozone, about $2

I have a 2001 Windstar with the same problem (thumping behind the dash,no heat)I was able to remove the module without taking out the radio by removing the bottom trim under the heater controls and reaching up behind the radio.. An 8mm socket did the trick. The name of the module is a "blend door actuator" I was able to pop it open and sure enough one of the little plastic gears was stripped.

The answers I found on this site saved me some $$ and time. So I thought I would add my 2 cents worth. Situation:1999 Windstar, thumping under dash, no front heat, rear heat worked fine. Per above, I removed lower trim piece and found the actuator, took it apart and found same stripped gears. Ordered part # 655-1552 from Napa "Heat and AC Actuator" for $44.77. Works perfectly now!

I have a 2000 Windstar with this problem. My husband removed the trim under the controls & replaced the blend door actuator. Problem solved. THANK YOU so much to all those responses above. You saved us tons of money & TIME! I will use this site more for advice.

October 29th, 2008- We also have a 2000 Windstar with the same no heat problem. I took our van to a trusted local mechanic and he agreed the blend door was in fact broken. Being a hands-on guy with a need to know more before I spent ~$800 for the repair I found this site. THANK YOU THANK YOU!! The information about the Heat and AC Actuator was correct and easy to replace. I got the replacement part from Advance Auto parts for $48 and a lifetime warranty to boot. Thanks again

November 5, 2008: Last week, we started seeing the same problems described (cold air only, faint clicking sound when changing the desired temperature on the controls) in our 2000 Ford Windstar. I was able to access the blend door actuator (easily identifiable ... white plastic, size of a pack of cards, three screws) by removing the lower plastic panel. This is the plastic panel that is on the floor and includes the small compartment that opens to store sunglasses, etc. (not the black trim surrounding the radio or temperature controls. I had to remove four plastic screws and anchors (two on each side by the drivers legs and the passengers legs). I had to disconnect the passenger side cigarette lighter to remove the panel completely from the car. Once unscrewed and lighter disconnected, I just pulled hard until the two friction clips gave way. In this way I did not have to remove the stereo. With hindsight, I might buy the stereo removal tools next time as removing and replacing the blend door actuator from below requires that I lie upside down on the seats with my head on the floor ... doable but awkward. Hint: while accessing the part from below is awkward, simply opening the cup holder/ash tray did wonders to make the part more accessible. Once I had removed the old blend door actuator, I opened it to see that the plastic gears had in fact stripped. I went to two auto parts stores and was unable to find a suitable replacement. Napa Auto Parts could have ordered one of the parts I read about above but he said it may not be the exact same part. He recommended I go to the nearby Dealer. The dealer did have the part (he keeps several in stock). It cost me about $70. He warned me that the gears may have stripped because an object may have fallen in the vent and could be blocking the blend door. If that is the case, replacing the part will only result in another broken blend door actuator. Unfortunately, it is nearly impossible to investigate this so I simply used a screw driver to rotate the blend door manually until I was satisfied that it had the proper range of motion. I replaced the blend door actuator (again, upside down on the passenger seat with my head on the floor) and the heater now works perfectly.

Blend Door Problem

Your problem sounds like the common blend door problem on the Ford Expeditions, and Ford Explorer. The door is on a vertical axis and when it breaks, it can swing back and forth randomly giving heat or AC or nothing. The difference on acceleration is the force placed on the door swinging it one direction.

You can check the operation by fully opening the glove box, removing the actuator motor on top of the plenum box and examining the blend door axle. Pictures of the common fail signature are available on the heatertreater.net web site. There are several "free" fixes that mostly are worth what you pay for them. The solution on the web site is solid and proven over hundreds of vehicles and will resolve the problem once and for all.

The "Related Question" below is an extensive discussion on the 1999-2003 temperature control valve / heater control valve.

It is likely the information will be similar to the 1997 / 1998 Windstar

This happened to my 95 Windstar-I just replaces the fuse for the air mixture door.

On my 1999 Ford Windstar, the blend door itself broke. This repair is more costly and more difficult, perhaps $700 to $1000 to replace. I just tied a shoestring to my blend door.

When you insert the blend door actuator if there is no slot for it the door is broken and you are up sh... creak. Hope it is the former.

Another option is from a company called HeaterTreater - a method to repair a broken blend door without removing the dash. I haven't tried it, but the ideas behind it seem to make sense - and they have lots of videos showing the processes.

http://www.heatertreater.net/Windstar%20Listing.HTML

CHECK THIS LINK http://www.automotiveforums.com/t524247.HTML

April 11, 2009: Your diagnosis was spot on! I removed the lower plastic panel (4 screws, unhook cig lighter), pulled out the ashtray/cup holder, and access wasn't too bad. Got a new actuator at Advance Auto ($46) and the whole job took about an hour. Thanks from Bay City, Michigan!

Ditto

I won't get into too much detail.

This forum saved me a few hundred bucks. How you determine its the heater actuator versus a stuck thermostat is simple. Most Windstars ( I have an 02) have 2 zones. The front zone will only blow cold air, but switch to the rear and turn on heat. If hot air flows, your thermostat is good.

If you hear a clicking sound behind the radio, it's your actuator and it's probably defective.

I ask my son in law to repair it ( he tinkers with cars all day ) and he repaired it 45 minutes.

CR, NJ

The part you are looking for is a blend motor. It is made of plastic . The gears teeth are broken or missing. This part moves a flap from normal cold air to the heated air. Only get heat when blend motor is engaged.

I just repaired this problem on my 2001 Windstar. The problem is usually the damper motor which is located behind the radio. The motor has a plastic gear inside and it wears out. If you know what you are doing it takes 30 minutes max to replace the motor. If this is your first attempt, plan on an hour. Go to a auto parts store and purchase the Ford radio removal kit, $5. Place the prongs into the holes on the radio until you feel them engage, no more than an inch and a half. Pull both wire hoops towards the doors and then pull the radio out. Once you have disconnected the radio, you will see a flat plastic unit about 3 x 4 inches. Remove the screws, I think there are three of them, using an 8mm socket with extensions. and one is not the same size as the other two, and pull the motor out, be careful not to break the stem. Remove slowly Get the replacement part from your favorite rip-off Ford dealer parts store. Usually about $70 bucks. I found that by calling around, I saved 10 bucks. Now do the reverse and you are good to go. I had the job quoted to me for $270 bucks so the 30 minutes spent is well worth it.. I hope this helped. edit.......I got the part for $48 at advanced auto parts. I had to plug the electric back up to the new actuator to get the"D" shaped peg to line up with the "D" shaped hole. The peg turned to exactly where it needed to go once plugged to electric. Took about 90 minutes to change out.

I am glad I can actually help someone else for once! It is your blend door actuator. It gets stuck between heat and cool and it breaks. That's what makes the clicking sound. I had to replace mine on my 2000 windstar and it was really easy, about 20 minutes to fix. It goes right behind your stereo and the part was only like $20 online. Just do a search for how to fix a blend door actuator and there are step by step instructions on a few different websites. I ! my 1999 winstar was doing this and it was the blend door

I HAVE A 97 BLAZER THAT HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. FIRST I CHANGED THE THERMOSTAT (NOT WHAT FINALLY FIXED THE PROBLEM BUT IT DID HELP IN THE LONG RUN)ONLY A $12.00 PART AND 30 MINUTES WORK. WHAT FINALLY FIXED THE PROBLEM WAS TO FLUSH OUT THE HEATER CORE. THERE SHOULD BE 2 HOSES GOING TO THE HEATER CORE THROUGH THE FIRE WALL ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. I TOOK EACH HOSE OFF AT THE BLOCK AND FLUSHED THE HEATER CORE THROUGH THOSE HOSES. I FLUSHED IT BOTH DIRECTIONS AND THE AMOUNT OF DEBRIS THAT CAME OUT WAS UNBELIEVABLE. BUT THEN I HAD FULL HEAT AGAIN. .

the water pump might be going bad and not circulating as good as it should,i had that happen to an older Buick of mine. i replaced the water pump and it worked like new

That is the mix door actuator trying to move the door, it may be stuck or you might have a vacuum leak coming from the engine. The actuator may be bad as well. Feel the heater hoses in engine compartment if one is hot and other cool try flushing heater core. there is a actuator that moves the temperature blend door,the door that controls hot to cold.the gears in the motor are plastic.is it makes a clicking noise after you turn the heater on ,it broke answer a flapping sound is usually caused by a leaf or other matter falling down thru vents pull fan cover off and clean debis out, mostdoors are are controlled by cable or vacuum,not gears.as you didnt say a clicking sound i doubt very much it has anything to do with motor or gears It's the blend door on the HVAC box. It's what controls what temp air comes through the vents.

have the heater core cehecked out

I found this site when it got to the low 40's in southwest Florida last night and discovered I had no heat in my 2003 Windstar. I picked the part up at NAPA and installed it in less than 30 minutes. The only improvement I will add is to connect the electrical connector to the new part prior to installing it. Start the car and set the temp control to cold. This will position the actuator arm in the proper position to slide in easily. Shut the car off after this step, before finishing the installation.

This site saved me a bunch of money. The Ford garage wanted almost $100 for the part and said it would take 4 hours to install and not to attempt it myself. Thankfully they did not have the part in stock!

12-21-2009

2000 Ford Windstar SEL: Problem: Clicking sound behind radio and no front heat.

Solution: Replace "Blend Door Actuator."

Follow the instructions listed above but pay attention to the following:

I would just like to add that if u do this yourself make sure that u use the radio removal tool that u can buy at any auto parts store. And even though I had that I still had a hell of a time getting the retaining clips to disengage and release the radio. It took about 30-40 mins. Once I removed the radio I found out why (And this wasn't explained in the instructions that came with the tool). When u insert the u shaped tool in the 2 holes on each side of the radio, make sure to insert them about one to 1/2 inches and then pull each tool towards the right and left doors (respectively) of the van b4 u pull it out towards you. If u don't u won't disengage the retaining clips which hold the radio in place in the dash. I kept pulling towards me and that was futile b-cuz the clips were still locked in place.

Once I had the radio removed I had no trouble removing & replacing the blend door actuator motor. If this is the factory motor that u are replacing, then finding it will be easy because it's housing is an off white color and it is mounted to the black plastic duct work behind where the radio used to be b4 u removed it. It is held in place by 3 small bolts. Plan on using a long ratchet extension (I coupled 2 together) because it is a long reach to the heads of the bolts.

If the heating/cooling system is blowing cold air, make sure u hook up the electrical connector to the new part and set the front temp. control lever to full cold. This will facilitate placement of the shaft of the replacement part to line up with the "D" hole in the blend door control shaft. This is the part that pivots and moves the door to open, close or somewhere in between depending on where the temp. control lever is positioned. Total time to replace: 90 mins.

December,11,2010 Houston tx,grait tip I had the same problem with my windstar 2000 no heat blowing from the vents and a thumping noise and it really works did't take more than 40 min to raplace and get the part I got it from advance autoparts the part number is#604-203 the name is (air door actuator)this is how they have it named, like it help me

Here is how I changed my power window motor and regulator with pictures:

(clickable "Related Link" below)

http://sites.Google.com/site/powerwindowregulator/home

Sidebar: Let's hear a round of applause for D0gB0one! If you benefit from his how-to guide, recommend him and add a note to this page's Discussion.

Autozone has motors alone $45-75, regulator plus motor combinations are $70

All are remanufactured units

1995-1998 Windstar - Engine compartment fusebox / distribution center: fuse letter "G"

1999-2003 Windstar - fuse #'s 106 (passenger side) and 113 (drivers side) in the ENGINE COMPARTMENT fusebox control the power window motors.

The above information was referenced in the respective OWNERS MANUAL.

See "Related Questions" below for more

Make sure the motor is in fact bad... Many times they just stop working because the armature brushes hang up and will not make contact with the motor armature. Sometimes you can slam the car door and this will jar the brushes and they will make contact with the armature. If this doesn't work you will need to remove the door panel and reach inside the door where the window motor is located and tap the electric motor with a small hammer or some other suitable object. While you are tapping the motor have someone hold the window switch in a functioning position, either up or down depending on the position of your window. I have done this many many times and hopefully it will work for you and you will not have to replace the motor. Good luck

***I tried the above tapping the motor suggestion (what did I have to lose--didn't think it could be so simple) and THANK YOU VERY MUCH! It worked for my 2001 Windstar.****

***Ditto!! I tried the tapping on the motor solution and the motor sprang to life! This just saved me anywhere from $70 for motor alone to $150+ to have the motor replaced. Thanks again!!!!!

****Double ditto! The hammer tap worked the trick. Thank you for the very good advice

I just replaced the LF window motor / regulator on our 2001 Windstar.

Here are the basic steps it took me to get the new motor / regulator assembly installed.

NOTE: The window doesn't have to come out for this repair.

Remove inside door panel -

1. remove plastic corner piece - it snaps out, a clip and tab hold it in place.
2. remove lock stem.
3. remove plastic fascia piece around door handle, it also snaps out, single clip and tab.
4. remove 5 panel screws (7mm), 2 at base, 2 in arm rest, and 1 in upper corner, where the corner piece was.

   The door panel can now be lifted off some plastic molded hooks that hold it on the frame.

   1. there are 3 wiring quick disconnects that need disconnecting from window/lock switches on the arm rest
   2. The courtesy light needs to be rotated out from the panel as well.
5. As you work the panel loose from the door:
6. Remove the foam from door frame.
7. You should also remove the speaker - the hole it vacates is useful for working on the regulator / assembly replacement

Now, the regulator is held in place by 4 rivets and threaded stem & nut and 2 tabs. With the panel and foam removed, you can easily see them. It is also attached by rivets to the window in 2 places at the bottom of the window. And, it is attached to a guide bar across the large opening in the frame.

The guide bar needs to be removed first. Remove the 2 nuts (11mm) that attach it to the frame and it can be worked off the regulator assembly and out of the opening.

Then, The rivets need to be drilled out, the 4 in the door frame and the 2 holding the window to the regulator assembly., the window rivets can be a pita - I used a Dremmel with a cutting wheel. Before starting the rivet removals, I used duct tape to hold the window up in place. But once the guide bar, 4 frame rivets, and stem nut are removed, the whole thing, window and all can be moved up/down in the door frame - and need to be to get at the rivets that attach the window to the regulator assembly. Move the window to a place so that you can get to the attaching rivets, you'll obviously have to loosen the tape to do so but then tape it where it works for getting at the window rivets (the pita part of this job).

Once the window rivets are removed, the regulator assembly can be removed through the large opening in the frame. New one goes in as old came out. Attach window to it - I used nuts/bolts, short enough to ensure there wouldn't be any interference. Not too tight, need the bushings to move as window goes up/down. Now - the new regulator assembly i got was slightly different in that the threaded stem was about 1/2" forward of the old one - so the hole the stem goes through had to be opened up toward the front of the van about 1/2" (turned it into a slot). With some time, a few choice words, and patience, the stem and tabs can be put in place in the frame and the new regulator assembly reattached to the frame. Again, I used nuts/bolts and couldn't replace the 2 inner rivets because of space constraints. I figured that the tabs, stem and 2 that I could replace could do the job of holding it in place.

Then, replace things as they came off. Don't for get the courtesy light and quick connects!

I've had to replace both assemblies and I was informed of a shortcut (after my first replacement job) that allows the replacement without having to remove the rivets...

once you have the door cover and foam removed look for two small divets/dents located in the area of the four rivets. Once you locate them drill them out with at least a 1/2" drill bit. Right behind the new holes are the two nuts holding the regulator in place. remove the two nuts and remove the regulator then reverse the procedure to put the new regulator in place.

Removing the door panel is the easy part. A redesign of the regulator means that a new motor will not fit on the old original 2001 regulator. Not only are the mounting holes different but so is the electrical connector. You could perhaps find an old motor at the junk yard but it will most likely fail just like the original design. There are six rivets. Two hold the window to the regulator and four hold the regulator to the door. The new regulator requires you enlarge one of the mounting holes. The difficult part for me was the window being riveted to the regulator. I did not want to drill out the rivets on the window and did not have a rivet gun that could handle a 1/4" rivet. Most homeowner rivet guns are for 3/16" and smaller rivets. The door rivets can be replaced with short 1/4" bolts. After many hours and hassles with wrong parts I opted to take the vehicle to an auto glass business and gave them a new regulator/motor assembly ($87 from Ford). Depending on how nice the glass people are it is still cheaper than having Ford do it. If you have the correct tools and rivets plus don't mind working with the glass it can be done at home.

I just removed mine by drilling 1/2" holes in the metal door over the two 5/16" nuts that hold the gear assembly to the regulator(there were dimples in the door above each nut). That allowed me to remove those two nuts. Then the third fastener was a bolt that projected through the door, which could be removed with a 5/32" socket on the torx type bolt head.Once those three nuts were removed the gear assembly fell away from the regulator without having to touch the glass or remove the regulator.

First you remove the back window corner panel. It pulls right off. Then you pop off the black cover from around the handle. There is a screw on the top holding the panel on , remove screw and remove the screws at the bottom of the panel and lift off panel. Roll plastic down. Drill out the 3 rivets holding the motor in place and remove bolts to swing motor to opening. Install in reverse order .Bolt new motor in place. Be careful with spring inside door can cut you use gloves, and watch out for window track, it locks into place.

Remove the door panel first,and the inside cover you'l see three pilote holes drill these out with a 1/2 inch bit this will expose the three small bolts holding the motor remove them with a small ratchet unplug the motor and replace.

To check the motor remove the door trim panel, disconnect electrical connector at motor, using a test light put one end of light into one side of connector and other end into other side of connector, (install light in place of motor), activate window up/down switch, if light illuminates change the motor, if not you have a wiring problem.

I am having the same problem as you are with my 95 Windstar but my windows work intermitantly. First thing I would do is check the fuses. There are separate fuses for driver and passenger windows. If this isn't the problem then I would check the relays for the windows. They might be sticking or something. You can buy new ones from NAPA for about $7 each.

I personally try the cheap approach first. If this isn't the answer, then get a tester and see if you have power to the window motor. If you do have power when the door switch is activated, then you have a bad motor. I would then recommend that a dealer replace because glass breaks easily.

Also Try this!!!

Make sure the motor is in fact bad... Many times they just stop working because the armature brushes hang up and will not make contact with the motor armature. Sometimes you can slam the car door and this will jar the brushes and they will make contact with the armature. If this doesn't work you will need to remove the door panel and reach inside the door where the window motor is located and tap the electric motor with a small hammer or some other suitable object. While you are tapping the motor have someone hold the window switch in a functioning position, either up or down depending on the position of your window. I have done this many many times and hopefully it will work for you and you will not have to replace the motor. Good luck

Make sure the motor is in fact bad... Many times they just stop working because the armature brushes hang up and will not make contact with the motor armature. Sometimes you can slam the car door and this will jar the brushes and they will make contact with the armature. If this doesn't work you will need to remove the door panel and reach inside the door where the window motor is located and tap the electric motor with a small hammer or some other suitable object. While you are tapping the motor have someone hold the window switch in a functioning position, either up or down depending on the position of your window. I have done this many many times and hopefully it will work for you and you will not have to replace the motor. Good luck

Remove the door trim panel. Pull off plastic cover. Unplug the regulator. Position glass by hand until you can remove rivets from door glass. Tilt glass and lift out. Drill out all the rivets holding the regulator in. Remove regulator. Install new regulator. Rivet new regulator. Reinstall glass. Rivet glass to regulator. Plug in regulator.

I have a 1995 Windstar and the passenger power window kept getting stuck and wouldn't come down for weeks at a time,then it would work. I pulled off the door panel there are 1 or 2 screws by the arm rest you need to unscrew,then pull off the electrical connector for the power mirror,locks and window.first check if you have power to the switch with a test light,if yes then switch looks ok,then pull off the connector to the power motor ,put the window switch back together.if test light goes on at the connector when you press the power window switch,power is making it to the motor.To remove the motor you have to drill out the rivets that hold the motor to the door,remove the connector then to replace you have to drill out the rivet holes to a larger size cause you have to replace them with bolts to put the nw motor in. BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE OLD MOTOR try hitting the old motor with a hammer not very hard to damage but give it a good hit,because some times the gears bind and that's why the power window doesn't work even when you have power to the motor. It's a pain in the @#$# to change that motor,the the hammer first. I chg the motor then afterward found out the motor was still good. The gears were binding that's why the window would work sometimes and sometimes not. See "Related Questions" below for more

TAke it to a garage and have them do a wet and dry compression test on it and listen for unusual noises.

Worked for me on 1999 Windstar, Thanks!

Just want to say thanks to all for posting the detailed instructions! I generally limit repairs to things I can do with a can of spray lube and an adjustable wrench. What I feared might blow my whole Sunday afternoon was done in under an hour to reinstall ( i.e. after I determined it was the motor, and had the partl). Wife was totally impressed!

$61 US for full motor-regulator assembly at Advanced Auto in Arlington, VA.

I followed the written and the images shown at

http://sites.google.com/site/powerwindowregulator/home.

Thanks for taking the time to add detail

Excellent suggestion to NOT remove the channel connected to the window, but rather bend the small metal stops and sliding the nylon rollers out. With this method, you'll need to do the same to remove the channel from the new regulator / motor before installing. This is basically a good 'dry run' for what you need to do for the existing channel inside the door.

I had some trouble sliding the existing nylon rollers out of the window channel because there was a small screw from the nylon clamp holding the window. A slight pry with a screwdriver got it past. The replacement nylon slides are much narrower (perhaps for this reason) and insert easily without hitting this screw.

Duct tape was also a great idea. My window was stuck in the up position. During the install, I needed to lower to about ½ way down get the new motor to line up with the holes and everything put together and tested. Duct tape made this easy to adjust and avoided the need to have a 3rd hand, which was not readily available.

1995/98 (may also apply to 1999-2003?)

You will need metric wrenches and sockets from 10mm up to 20mm.

• Park van with front tires turned to the left. Jack right front of van, remove right tire. Place blocks under frame on right side in line with right wheel.
• Open hood, drain fluid into container by opening petcock on bottom right side (as you are facing front of van) of radiator. This is on the inside and is held in the radiator by a piece of plastic inside of the radiator, so don't try to pull it all the way out. Open radiator cap to allow air in.
• Unhook battery.
• Remove alternator and lay it to the right between engine and radiator.
• Drop serpentine belt out of the way. The way it is installed is shown on the underside of the hood. If not, draw it out before removing.
• Remove small rubber belt wheel that is forward and below alternator.
• Remove L shaped steel support that alternator bolts to.
• Unbolt electronic ignition that sits atop steel tube coming out of water pump. Will have to unscrew A/C tube support piece attached to it.
• You may have to remove plug wires, if so, be sure and write down their installation order first.
• Remove front engine mount nut on passenger side close to bumper.
• Remove back engine mount nut on passenger side behind right front wheel.
• Remove engine mount nut on drivers side just in front on left wheel drive shaft.
• Un-clip radiator hose from bottom of radiator.
• Un-clip radiator hoses from steel tube on top of water pump.
• Remove the two bolts holding steel tube in place.
• Remove steel tube, being careful with it as they are not made anymore and cost over $100 if one can be found.

  DO NOT Lift with weight on the OIL PAN

  See section below for WARNINGS

• Place wood support under oil pan between frame members. Remove wood from under right frame. Lower jack until engine mounts are about 3 inches off the frame. Make sure you do not lower too much and allow plastic parts in engine to be crushed. You now have enough room to remove the water pump. Place wood back under right frame until flush, just to be safe. The bottom tube is still manufactured if you need to replace it but will cost about $50.
• If you intend to replace the serpentine belt, take it with you as it seems all the aftermarket places list a belt a bit too small. The one Ford sells is the correct size.

That's it. Take your time and it will take a weekend to do.

Just a safety note: NEVER ever jack up any vehicle by the oil pan no matter what you place between the jack and the oil pan... The concentrated weight of the vehicle on the relatively thin metal of the oil pan would allow the head of the jack to easily penetrate right through the oil pan. Aside from the expensive damage this would do to the oil pan, it would also allow the vehicle to fall on you WHEN (not if) the jack punctures the oil pan.

Always place the jack under the center of the front or rear axle beams on front wheel drive vehicles, or under the front axle beam or the rear differential on a rear wheel drive vehicle.

Also, always make sure that any vehicle that you are working under is securely supported by jackstands that are placed under the recommended jacking points for your vehicle. Never rely on a jack as the only means of supporting the vehicle's weight.

See the Autozone online repair guide for both generations (1995-98 and 1999-2003) of Windstars.

One of the most helpful bits of information from the repair guides are the diagrams showing the various bolt sizes and locations. So easy to mess up when putting the short vs long ones back in.

NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.

I recently changed my water pump (but it was on a '95 Windstar...should be similar). After removing all bolts on the pump (remove flywheel first, then you can reach the other bolts), I had to unbolt the motor mounts (underneath van) and jack it up about 4-6 inches before the old pump would clear to be removed. Place a wooden block between jack and oil pan when jacking.

Get a manual from discountautorepairmanuals.com It is not an easy job.

A2: This is a difficult job. Only for skilled mechanics who don't mind bleeding a bit. Also the timing cover gasket should be replaced at the same time and that is for mechanics who don't mind bleeding a lot. Trust me I know. :) MGL

First thing you should know is that alot of the Windstar models require one to remove the engine mounting bolt and raise engine a couple inches so that the water pump can be removed from where it sits. Remove the belt. Unbolt the pump housing. I think there is like 6-9 bolts holding it in. Remove it. Clean the previously old gaskit material off. Install new pump. Not a simple job!!!

With the 3.0 Liter engine the following procedure works well.

Removal: 1. Drain Coolant. 2. Remove Coolant tank from Passenger fender well. 3. Loosen but do not remove the 4 14mm bolts on the Water Pump pulley prior to removing the serpentine belt. 4. Remove the serpentine belt using a long 15mm box end wrench on the tensioner to remove tension from the belt. 5. Remove the alternator 6. Remove the Tensioner pulley 7. Remove the Water Pump pulley (since you already loosened the bolts) 8. Remove all bolts 10mm, 8mm, and 13mm making a diagram with the locations of all bolts. Also remove all braces; there should be at least two. Keep in mind that not all 8mm bolts are visible from above. 9. Remove Water pump, if it sticks tap with a rubber mallet do not pry it loose. 10. Using a putty knife remove all traces of the old gasket until you see bare metal.

Installation: 1. Install new water pump with new gasket and torque all bolts to proper specs. 2. Reinstall Tensioner Pulley, Alternator, and Water Pump pulley. 3. Refer to diagram either on hood or over radiator as to belt installation. 4. Reinstall serpentine belt over all but alternator pulley. 5. Using long 15mm box end wrench, pull tensioner toward front of vehicle and slip loosened belt over alternator pulley. Release tension. 6. Reinstall Coolant Tank and refill with Coolant. 7. Start engine and, keeping a close eye on the temperature gage, idle until normal operating temperature is reached. Check for leaks if there are none you are done.

With the 3.8 Liter engine:

Take it to a shop and give them your left arm and left leg as well as first-born child and they may fix it for you. Or they may just laugh.

Water Pump Replacement 99 Windstar 3.9 L This is a ridiculously difficult job for for the average home mechanic. I'm an experienced mechanic and I was surprised at the difficulty of it. The two motor mounts on the passenger side must be removed (just remove the nuts from the bottom) and the engine jacked up and pulled forward slightly being very careful not to break any plastic. It might would be easier if another engine mount was removed as well. The upper pipe is difficult to remove and their is a good chance you will damage that pipe. It looks like that pipe/hose would be difficult to change as well. The lower pipe is usually very rusty and very close to leaking, I recommend replacing it. Removal of the alternator and alternator bracket is very easy and gives much more room to work with. I recommend that this job be given to a garage unless you have a lot of time and patience and a good helper. (make sure that the leak is the water pump and not the rear head gasket. You can see the rear head gasket fairly well from underneath the passenger side finder well once the tire is removed. if the gasket leaks here, it may appear to be the water pump leaking. found out the hard way.)

I replaced my water pump on a 2000 3.8 engine as others did. But it wasn't even my problem. My problem was I had too pin holes in the two tubes on top of the water pump. I had to remove the intake which wasn't too hard & the wiper cowl stuff. the pipe is under the intake, the other tube was on top of the water pump, ya have to remove a bolt behind the power steering to get the top tube out. It does wiggle out after a minute of rocking it back & forth the new water pump will come with 2 new O rings one for there & one for the lower radiator hose pipe. I patched it up with jb weld & let it set for a day to cure before I tried it out. ALSO when I took off the intake I scrapped off the oil crud on it & the van runs so much better like new. More power & even idle !!! So if your van spark knocks alittle & has runs a little ruff clean your intake with a razor blade, put a rag down so the crude doesn't go into the engine more.

Front Windowss

1995-1998 Windstar - Engine compartment fusebox / distribution center: fuse letter "G"

1999-2003 Windstar - fuse #'s 106 (passenger side) and 113 (drivers side) in the ENGINE COMPARTMENT fusebox control the power window motors.

Rear Windows

1995-1998 Windstar - ?

1999-2003 Windstar - fuse #'s 18 in the PASSENGER - INSIDE fusebox control the power window motors.

PCV Valve locations:

• 1995-1998 3.0l - front valve cover
  
  
• 1996-1998 3.8l - rear valve cover
  
  
• 1999-2003 3.8l - front valve cover

INSTALL: Simply pull on the hose to release the valve from the valve cover - pull the valve out of the hose. Insert new valve and push back into valve cover.

NOTES:

• The valve is in the end of 1/2" or so size hose inserted into a rubber grommet in the top of the valve cover
  
  
• If the valve checkball rattles, it's working
  
  
• Recommended replace interval - 40,000 miles
  
  
• The 'other' large tube going into the opposite valve cover is a breather tube

it should be on the valve pan cover with a hose running to air filter duct or MAF(mass air flow) the PCV recycles the blowback exhaust back into the engine .

The PVC valve is on the rear valve cover closer to the driver side of the car. It's easier to see and get to if you pull off the air cleaner housing which is a hassle but once you get it out of the way, you can get to the PVC valve easier. The problem is getting enough leverage to pull it loose from the connector which has a rigid pipe leading to it. It's a snug fit and you have to be able to get a good grip to pull the old one out of the hose. It's fairly easy to pull it loose from the valve cover.

There might be small difference in details but here is how to remove the door panel on Windstar 1999. These instructions apply for the drivers door particularly:

Remove three screws that hold the panel. Two at the bottom and one in the right corner. This one has a triangle plastic cover that comes off easily by just pulling it out.

Remove also two screws that are in deep holes under the plastic handle.

Remove the plastic cover that is around/behind the manual latch that opens the door from inside.

Pop up the switches/buttons holder for power windows and lock/unlock then disconnect all the connectors.

Use a pry tool or a flat screw driver to separate the panel from the door on the lower side.

Hold the panel firmly and lift it up until releases from the door.

The foam gasket under the panel may stay stuck on the door but you can remove it easily.

When replacing the panel back don't forget to place the stub (stick) for manual locking the door from inside first before you put the panel back and slide it down.

Once you understand the process it's very easy to do it.

2. Pop out the component around the door handle (this comes straight out, you may have to pull the door handle into the "open door" position to remove the component).

The next step is to remove the power window/auto door lock control panel: Be CAREFUL on this. The front part pops straight up, however the rear does NOT come straight up. Once you lift the front up you must slide the unit forward while lifting the front up ( there are two plastic extensions that are curved, these two projections hold the rear of the panel down).

you will find a Phillips screw exposed once you remove the control panel. Remove screw.

You must also remove the screw that is located at the bottom of the door panel. Rear of door panel (to your right on the passenger side)

The panel is now held on by only PLASTIC hook-like projections from the door panel into holes in the door frame. if you break these you will be cursing at yourself.

the panel must be lifted straight up (about an inch)to unhook the plastic hooks. Once you lifted the panel straight up you should be able to completely remove it. Be Aware of the electrical wires leading to the window/lock panel. Good luck!!

It's only a $11 part at the dealer though.

BTW, you gotta drill out the rivets that hold in the guide. You can use bolts & nuts to replace it (Pan heads work best)

Take out the screws in the bottom of the panel. Takes out the screw in the handle pull - then take out the plastic insert around the handle area. Then pull the plastic behind the mirror. After that pull up on the whole panel and it will come off. One of the easiest that I have done.

1. remove the retainer screw from the door handle cover and remove.

2. remove the screw from the bottom left corner of the door panel.

3. pull the door panel away from the door, starting at the bottom. Lift up and off the door.

Once the panel is off, it is easy to replace bad speakers or inspect / repair door lock linkage.

• First gently pry against the small triangle shape panel at the fwd corner of the door to remove
• Remove the small cover with the mirror control, straight up.
• Push the window/lock switch panel forward 1/2" and lift it out.
• Then you gain access to a Phillips head screw, remove that.
• Another small Phillips screw needs to come out at the rear lower corner of the door panel
• Then LIFT only at first, then out a little to free the door panel.

I have a 2000 Windstar SE, and just had to remove the door panel to replace the lock actuator. Here are the steps I took:

Windstar: Removing Inner Door Panel

- Remove two screws from bottom of door. - Carefully pop triangular black fascia from upper front corner (pry from top with flat head screwdriver), then remove screw behind it. - Pop trim piece from inner door handle (pry from front) - Pop power lock/window panel loose (pry around), then unplug switches. - Remove two screws very deeply inset on armrest. - Gently lift upward and outward on door inner. Once you have a gap, twist and release the light socket in the inner door panel.

- If removing lock assembly, unscrew the three nuts holding the outer door handle, then remove it from the outside. - Disconnect the two electrical connectors from the lock assembly if removing.

I do not know what year you have but I have a 1999 WS and you have to replace the whole assembly (framework and motor, motor is not sold seperatly). You will need to remove the door panel and all mounting bolts for the framework. The whole thing will then slide out (not easily) through the cut outs on the door. Replace with the new unit just like the old one was removed. This will take two people. One person will need to hold the window while the other is working with the assembly. I replaced mine with much cussing and swearing in about 2 hours. It is not a hard job just aggravating.

Note: I changed the mirror on the passenger door, but most of these instructions apply to either side.

Tools you will need: Large flathead screwdriver, Philips screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, socket wrench with 7/16-inch socket.

The mirror is held on by three nuts on the inside of the door. Getting to two of them is quite easy -- it's the third one that requires taking off the interior door panel, as mentioned below. If you are moderately handy with tools, you can do it yourself. Otherwise, take it to a mechanic. Also, it helps to have a second person available.

1. Roll down the window and open the van door in question. Pop off the black plastic cover at the top and front of the door panel by prying gently on the top of the cover with a large flathead screwdriver. The cover is held in place by three metal tension clips. This uncovers one of the mirror nuts.

2. Just forward of the door panel, you will find a round rubber plug. Pull this out of its hole to reveal nut #2.

3. Gently pry off the black plastic cover that surrounds the interior door handle. It is held in place by three metal tension clips. As it comes loose, slip it off over the door handle. (This is the one step where the driver and passenger doors are different. On the driver's door, the electric mirror control is mounted in this black plastic cover. You will probably need to disconnect a small wire harness from the back of this control in order to completely remove the cover, or just leave it dangling by the wires.)

4. Gently pry up the front end of the lighter-colored plastic piece to which the electric window and lock switches are mounted. Once the front is loose, pull the piece forward to fully loosen it. It can be left sitting loosely with the wires still attached.

5. You have now uncovered a Philips-head screw just where the switch carrier meets the armrest in the door panel. This screw attaches the door panel to the door. Remove it.

6. There are two Philips-head screws at the very bottom of the door panel. Remove them.

7. The door panel is now free and is being held in place because it is hooked over the window opening. Carefully lift up the panel, clearing the lock post, and pull the panel away from the door. You do not need to remove it fully but can find a way to rest it on the door.

8. You have now uncovered the third and final mirror nut -- it may be hidden behind another rubber plug like you removed in step 2.

9. About 8 inches below this third nut, you will find the connection for the mirror wire harness. Disconnect the wire harness and push the loose end into the door.

10. Remove the three mirror nuts with a socket wrench and 7/16-inch socket. The mirror will probably need to be pried away from the door because the foam sealant material has it stuck on. Once the mirror comes fully free, carefully pull the wire harness out of the door.

11. Follow these steps in reverse (more or less) to install the new mirror and replace the panel and other trim pieces (don't forget the rubber plug that ends up under the door panel!).

you have to pull off the door panel first. the are plastic pieces that need to be pried off and screws that are hidden. i would suggest taking it to a shop and let them do it. they shouldn't charge you more than $50 (independent shop) $100 (dealership). the pieces that can and will break are much more expensive.

first you will need to remove the door panel. Then you see behind the mirror on the door 3 nuts to remove and if electric you will need to unplug the jack first.

Not sure if it will be the same for the 2000 Windstar. I changed the whole mirror assembly on my 98 passanger side. There are 3 nuts holding the assembly on the door. You must first remove the inside door panel by removing the cover around the door opener handle. There is a screw behind it once that is removed you can remove the panel by lifting up on the panel. you can then unplug the power window and lock buttons if you like( it does make it easier). then you have access to the nuts holding the mirror assembly one once you remove the little black rubber plugs. Unplug the power mirror cable and then reinstall the new one in the opposite order as the removal. .

The door panel could then be removed by lifting up and towards the back of the car. The two power connectors near the middle of the panel unplug by depressing a tab on them and the courtesy light near the bottom rear of the door panel can be removed by twisting counter clockwise.

There are 3 nuts holding on the mirror assembly, two of which are under black plastic/rubber hole-filler grommets. Be careful not to drop the nuts down in the door panel! I used an 11mm socket with a magnet to keep the nuts from dropping.

The power connector for the mirror motor/heater is under some white foam sound proofing. I peeled back a portion of it to expose the power connector. After unplugging the connector, I tied a piece of sturdy string to the old power connector before removing the mirror so that the string "fished" through the door panel as I removed the mirror and cord. I then untied the string from the old connector and tied it onto the new mirror's connector and pulled the cord back through the door panel. I think it would be very difficult otherwise to get the connector back through the door panel.

The remainder of the installation was just a reverse of the removal.

MirrorGlassPlus.com offers replacement mirror glass which is an exact match to your existing factory mirror. That means it will have the same size, shape, bend and features as your existing factory mirror. Installation is always quick and easy, typically taking about 30 minutes. * Smooth seamed edges for safe handling * First-surface chrome reduces glare * Part# lasered on every mirror * Protective safety-orange packaging * Installation guide printed right on the box * Includes Redi Stick® adhesive patches

According to the respective Owners Manuals:

1995-1998 Front Wipers/washer - fuse #18 - interior fusebox
1995-1998 Rear Wipers/washer - fuse #24 - interior fusebox

NOTE: Fuse "D" in the Engine compartment fusebox also covers these fuses, along with a bunch of others

1999-2003 Front Wipers/washer - fuse #6 - interior fusebox
1999-2003 Rear Wipers/washer - fuse #7 - interior fusebox

1999-2003 Front Wipers/washer - RELAY #202 - ENGINE COMPARTMENT fusebox
1999-2003 Front Wipers/washer - RELAY #203 - ENGINE COMPARTMENT fusebox



The power distribution box in the engine compartment # 6 , 30 amp mini - fuse , front wiper motor , front wiper relay , front washer pump , FEM ( also # 7 , 25 amp mini - fuse , rear wiper etc. ) The owners manual shows to disconnect your battery cables before servicing anything in the PD BOX

See "Related Questions" below for more

The high current fuse box is located in the engine compartment next to the battery. Remove cover and the fuse for the wiper motor is fuse number 6 and is a 30 amp fuse. If you go to myford.com and enter your vin number you can download a user manual for your vehicle. Hope this helps.

First you will need to raise the car and put safety stands under it to prevent any possibility of falling. Also you must chock the rear wheels to keep the car from rolling and coming off the jack stands while up in the air. The car will want to roll when you are reefing on the bolts.

1. Disconnect the battery cables at the battery.
2. Disconnect the two wires to the starter.
3. The larger wire runs through a standoff above the starter. It makes the job easier if you will remove the bolt holding the standoff to the engine block. This allows you to move the large wire out of your way.
4. Remove the two bolts holding the starter onto the flywheel housing. One bolt is easy to get at as it is visible on the front but the second one is hidden up behind the starter.

   NOTE: Starter bolts are 13mm. Brakeline bracket bolt is 15mm.

5. Do the opposite to install.

While you have the starter off you have exposed the gear teeth on the edge of the flywheel. You should inspect the teeth as your problem could be these teeth and not the starter. Use a crayon or chalk to put a mark on the flywheel so you will know when you have turned it completely around. You can use a large screwdriver or some other tool to pry on these teeth and rotate the flywheel around, one complete revolution

The starter is located on the lower front of the engine and is visible thru the air duct.

Lower front of the engine, accessed from below.

Follow a rather large gauge wire leading down to the starter.

Disconnect the negative wire from the battery before removing the starter.

Disconnect connected wires, remove 2 mounting bolts.

Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery, then remove the wire to the selenoid .

Remove the two bolts holding the starter,and with some manuvering the starter will come out of the vehicle. Reverse the process to install.

everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the library should have a professional shop manual available in the REFERENCE section...make copies of the right sections...good luck :)

The starter is located on the front of the engine near the bottom in the middle next to the transmission.

Bolts that hold the starter on: 3 - 15mm bolts and on some you also need to remove the 2- 8 mm bolts on the rear support on back of the starter

the starter is located in the front of the motor in the middle its in eye veiw in front of radiatorGeneral instructions for replacing a starter (2 mounting bolts):

# Disconnect the negative battery cable# Raise and support the vehicle safely# Disconnect the starter electrical harness# Remove the upper starter bolt# Support the starter and remove the lower bolt# Remove the starter from the vehicle

everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the library should have a professional shop manual available in the REFERENCE section...make copies of the right sections...good luck :)

It will have set a code in the computer and the dealer can read it and tell you what is wrong.

Many repair shops can read the ABS codes also - especially shops that specialize in tires and brakes.

The codes will likely identify if a specific wheel sensor is mis-behaving / failing, or a worst-case situation: the ABS Control Module is failing (expensive).

The sensors, located behind each wheel, can be checked for accumulated road 'gunk' and cleaned. Also look for any frayed/broken sensor wires.

NOTE: The sensor sit about .25" away from a gear-type ring on the backside of the wheel - the 'exciter ring'. It's the teeth passing in front of the sensor that creates the signal sent to the ABS control module. NOTE: The ABS Control Module reads the speed of each wheel and 'pulses' the level of braking to each wheel according to if it thinks it is skidding on ice/wet surfaces. Bring vehicle to shop that has an ABS scanner Perhaps you have a bad wheel speed sensor that needs replaced. I have a 1997 windstar with the same problem. I took it to the shop and had them put the van on the diagnostic machine and they said that the abs light came on because one of the wheel bearings was loose. Problem with the Anti-Lock Brake System. Take it to a professional. I believe it means the Antilock Brake System is disengaged. Means a code has been stored in the abs computer. Standard obd tester cannot check these codes. Take to dealer service shop back side of the disc near the hub. It's black and square with two metal prongs flush with the end. because ford employs rookie electrical engineers to save money-LOL- (although i do think this is true) any dome light problems yet? power door keep opening all by itself? trac light on? abs light on? now to answer your question. my abs and trac light were on all winter and as soon as it dried out i have had no problems. if it bugs you that bad bring it to a repair shop it is about 250. or if you are mechanically inclined spend the 60-75 to find out which wheel speed sensor is sending the fault spend 50 for a new one and about 20 minutes to put it in
Check the fuses for the ABS computer. i have a 97 windstar with the same problem. i took it to shop for a diagnosis. the abs light was staying on because one of the wheel bearings were loose, and the brake was on because i need to replace the brake light switch. take your van in and get a diagnosis of the problem There is a problem with your ABS. Seek professional help. Not a job for a novice. There is a problem with the ABS, (Anti-Lock Brakes). You still have normal braking but your ABS may or may not work properly. Take it to a professional for diagnosis and repair. ---- Each wheel has a sensor mounted near the brake discs in the front and drums in the rear. You can see them without even removing the wheels. Look on the inside of the wheels kind of near the ball joint and you will see a small electrical cable. This cable goes to the sensor. had same problem with mine,but my speedo was also jumping around.took it to dealer and it was my wheel speed sensor on drivers side Something is wrong with the braking/traction control of the vehicle. It needs to be taken to a shop ASAP. Having just resolved this very same issue, I wrote up what I learned about ABS & Traction control systems.

See "Related Questions" below for 'the rest of the story' (Paul Harvey, Rest In Peace) Your sensor is probably broken. You to need have diagnosed which sensor. Mine was damaged when lower assembly was replaced. Looks like Rock auto was cheapest. the abs light should not be on all the time

you have a bad abs or vss sensor I have 2001 windstar with abs lights on.. When changing the rear shoes,I noticed the abs sensors were all gucked up, cleaned them with brake clean and now the lights no longer come on.

• Open rear liftgate to access tail light assembly
• Remove the 2 screws from the top of the tail light lens.

  Note: there may also be a 'friction clip' or two holding the lens - gently tug on the lens to release

• Rotate bulb socket counterclockwise and remove from lamp assembly
• Pull bulb straight out of socket and push in new bulb.

These steps are detailed, and illustrated in the Owners Manual (see "Related Questions")

Your taillamp lens is not removable on it's own. It is a component type lamp/ To access this lamp you do so by removing the inside corner access panel, Your can change the bulbs from this point buy removing( unscrewing) the wires to the component and you wil have access to change the bulb. If your trying to remove the component, there will be 4 bolts that when removed, allow the tailamp to be removed.

The tailights are sealed units and don't come apart.

Open the rear hatch and likely you will find 2 screws along the inside edge of the taillight lens. Remove them.

There are 2 clips located along the outside edge that will pull out with some tugging outwards on the lens assembly.

• Remove the two retainer screws from the top of the tail light lens.
• Remove the lens assembly by lifting the it outwards at a 45 degree angle.
• Rotate the bulb socket counter-clockwise to remove from the back of the lens
• Remove the bulb from the socket by pulling straight out

With the rear hatch open, you will see 2 screws at the top of the taillight lens - remove those screws and pull the top of the lens outward at an angle (not straight back, nor straight to the side) to release the retainer clip.

To remove the lightbulb sockets from the lens, turn the socket counter-clockwise about a quarter of a turn.

Open the tailgate and you will see the screws that hold it on - take those out and then pull the unit out.

With the rear hatch open, you will see 2 screws at the top of the taillight - remove those and the assembly will tilt out and up off the bottom locators.

Just had this issue on my 1999 Ford Windstar (3.8L). In my instance it turned out to be a pinhole in the crossover coolant tube that rises up out of the lower intake manifold on the driver-side of the engine (above the thermostat housing and below the MAF) and shoots off at a 90 degree angle across to the passenger side.

This tube is nearly impossible to see until you remove the upper/lower air intake (large black clamshell looking thing) from the lower manifold. Trust me - it is there.

Project details:

You will need to remove the: Neg. battery cable, various electrical and vacuum connections, the windshield wipers and cowl assembly, air cleaner assembly, throttle cables, upper/lower air intake, and of course the tube itself.

While it sounds like it is a pretty difficult project , it was not too bad really.

Just get a Haynes manual for your Windstar (about $20 at most auto parts stores) and read up on how to remove the upper/lower air intake.

It really mentions nothing about the tube in particular though. It is all relatively light work. The largest tool I used was the 15mm wrench to remove the windshield wipers :-)

Tools/Parts:

A set of small 1/4" deepwell sockets, and ratchet made the work go quickly. You will also need a straight screwdriver and some pliers for loosening/removing various hose clamps. I just used a med. sized adjustable wrench for the wipers.

The gaskets on the upper/lower air intake were reusable, and the tube I had welded up by a friend (it is about $55-$75 at the dealer if you have no welding friends).

If you repair your old tube, be sure to replace the o-ring on it while you are in there. My dealer actually *gave* me a new one, so my total cost for the project was a few hours of my time and $0.00 for parts (already had the manual).

Where to buy: Your local ford dealership parts department

As a temporary fix try taking a bigger piece of hose, slitting it in half and placing it over the hole. Next take a hose clamp and place it over the part with the hole and the rubber hose and tighten it down. It might take two or three hose clamps. This wont be perfect, but will allow you to drive it until you get replacement piece or feel like messing with it. Hope this helps.

I don't know what it is called but I had to replace one due to a pin hole worn in the bend.

Not too complex, don't need to remove the pump, need long skinny arms and large hands, otherwise is slow going. Recommend hose clamp pliers. I pulled off the front hose at the water pump first, then the one to the recovery tank, un-boltedat water pump and power steering pump, popped it out of the water pump(pry with large screw driver under flange with right hand and tug tube with left hand), rearranged the hoses temporarily for easier access to the last clamp. There was a tube mounted on a bracket on the PS pump that I had to pop off to remove the ty tube once disconnected. Installation is easier than the removal. Hope this helps.

Repair would be to replace and I have no direct knowledge of the 99 model but my 2001 wasn't so hard and I would guess that the 99 will be a similar replacement.

* Remove the door panel, on the 2001 it's 2 screws located on the inside door handle, 2 on the bottom and one at the top near the mirror.

* With that removed you take off the foam panel and expose the inside of the door.

* The lock actuators are easy to find, they are attached to the lock rod. There is one electrical connector on it that is taken off by lifting the lock clip using a slot screwdriver then just pull the connector out.

* The actuator itself is a bit odd to get out.

To look at the new one it seemed to me that it would click in from the top but after doing the first one I saw that it actually SLIDES in from the direction of the outside of the door.

I found a very thin narrow slit located where the striker hits the lock on the outside door jam and this goes directly to the side of the actuator. I fashioned a tool from a narrow putty knife then pushed it into the slit and then pushed onto the actuator releasing the little friction clip that you can see on the new actuator.

You then have to push and push this whole thing towards the outside wall of the door which doesn't go too easily. On my passenger side i resorted to a long slot screwdriver to use as a lever to help slide the thing forward because it didn't want to budge.

The good thing though is that the new ones slide right into place easily.

* Another thing, the pin on the actuator that moves the lock-rod just sits inside the lock-rod, there is no mechanical attachment and it fairly loose so no need to worry about that part of it. ----

# Remove the retainer screw from the door handle cover and remove

# Remove the screw from the bottom left corner of the door panel

# Pull the door panel away from the door, starting at the bottom (may need to start with door half open then close fully to remove). Lift up and off the door

# Peel back the door insulation by working gently at edges

# Remove 3 black screws from the face of the door latch mechanism

# Disconnect the controller arm at the top of the door latch mechanism that connects to the outside door handle. The plastic connector will push up from the metal arm after the locking tabs are pushed in

# Open the door half way and remove the 3 screws from the side of the door around the door latch

# The door latch mechanism is now able to be removed out from the inside of the door. The black wire cables may need to be removed from some of the retaining clamps

# The lock actuator can be removed. The actuator body will twist out of the spring clamp. Then the bar at the end of the actuator can be removed by turning

Another Procedure Write-up

For a 2001 SEL, which likely applies to all 1999-2003 models:

Some of the other procedures here attempt to not have to remove the latch & lock assembly. I found it immensely easier to get the assembly loosened to the point where I could see the backside where the actuator slides into the assembly. The adds a couple of extra steps, but, it was less frustratingthan trying to work blind in the corner of the inside of the door.

• Tools needed:
• • 7mm or 9/32 socket with 6" extension
  • 11mm socket
  • Small to medium prying tools. I use a $3 set of nylon ones from Harbor Freight
  • Razor blade / knife
  • T30 star fastener bit - for the door latch to door fasteners
  • Magnetic tray to help avoid losing parts & screws
  • Flashlight if your eyes are 2 days past "middle-age"
• Remove two (2) 7mm screws at the bottom corners of the door panel
• Remove two (2) 7mm screws just below the pull-handle - actually they just stayed in the deep access holes and didn't come out
• Remove the black triangle cover at the top front corner

  NOTE: there is a friction-clip near the top of the triangle. Pry/pull at the top to release and then lift up & away. Don't pry at the bottom like I did, or you'll just break-off the internal clip. No real harm as the cover is pretty sturdy even without it

• Remove the now-visible 7mm screw from the top front corner of the panel
• Remove the clip-in cover behind the door handle

  NOTE: the friction-clip is at the front of the cover. Pry it up a bit and pull the cover towards the front of the door to clear the other hooks

• The panel will now lift-up and away from the door. There are NO friction-clips so don't waste your time prying the panel away, just lift
• Release two (2) wiring connectors at the topside of the panel - push-in clips to release the connector
• Optional: If your door has the courtesy light, turn the light socket counter-clockwise to release from the panel. Whew! The door panel is now free of the door
• The foam cover is lightly glued to the door - gently pull it away. The razor blade/knife will help you keep from tearing the material

  Inside the door

• There are 2 wiring connectors, only 1 of which goes to the door lock. I released the bottom connector earlier-on, and the other one was easier to release after the assembly is loose
• Remove three (3) 11mm nuts that hold the exterior door handle cover
• Try and wriggle the door handle to slide it off the top of the connector rod. There's a 90 degree turn to get through, but it should slide & wriggle past it and off the rod
• Release the inside door handle cable from the nylon holder-clip. Just provides more wriggle-room
• Remove the three (3) T30 mounting screws from the door latch on the end of the door
• With the entire assembly loose inside the door, you should be able to turn and wriggle it around the internal window support and get it out to the largest opening in the door to work on it

  NOTE: the interior door handle cable, exterior door handle connector rod, doorlock manual operation rod and maybe even the second wire connector are still hooked onto the assembly - but there's enough play to get the assembly out to the opening for clear access

• The actuator itself slides on/off the assembly from the outside side of the door. Take note of the retainer-clip on the new one, and then spot it on the old one - press it in and push / slide the actuator off the assembly

Overall, not a bad job and I wouldn't hesitate to do the next one.

Almost forgot to tell you where I bought my part.Autozone wanted $70-100, and one of the local salvage yards priced a used one at $30. I bought a brand new one from RockAuto.com for $32 plus $3 shipping.

Be sure to review all the various procedure write-ups in this WikiAnswer and you'll find it pretty easy to stop having to reach across the seats to unlock the darned door for your wife!

One last thing: if this write-up helps you out, please hit the Contributor Trust & Question Popularity links below - I appreciate it and good luck!

---- I just replaced my drivers door actuator - it takes some time and patience. I would suggest that you go to a wrecker and get some "practice". Much more cost effective as well! I have a pull-a-part wrecker with a good selection of Windstars. Door panel off - take it easy on the power accessory/speaker harnesses. Have a good look at the lock configuration - connections from inside handle, outside handle, lock and actuator piston. Start removing clips and wires. You may have to unscrew exterior handle/molding to get some give on the interior - you will be working through cutouts in the door. Good idea to take a quick photo before you start. Good luck.....

The resistor provide the blower fan with multiple speeds.

A blown / failed resistor will result in the heater fan blowing on HIGH speed only.

The Ford Windstar blower has a resistor block that controls the various speeds of the blower motor. It is located on the passenger compartment side of the blower housing and can be replaced in five minutes.

On my 2000 windstar rear fan although it has a multi speed selector is only wired up in the harness for single speed, the front fan does have multi speed.

You may very well have a blown fuse, check all the fuses for the air conditioning system, there is a box located on the driver side of the vehicle in the drivers foot well, a diagram with all the fuses and their amperage will be on the cover, remove the cover and locate the blower fuses for the A/c. If the fuses are not blown, then it may very well be that the blower motor is damaged or the control is not working properly. It is recommended that you take it to professional service shop if this is the case due to the many probabilities of a vaccum leak or a electrical problem that is best solved by the professionals.

Its on the passengers side under the dash and its held in place by two screws which will located on the a/c evaporator housing...................

Yes.

See "Related Links" below to the Autzone.com repair guide with detailed instructions and photos for replacing either front or rear heater cores.

NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.

That is one possibility. Another is a vacuum leak. Personal experience with help from someone in a forum: Check the plastic hose in the engine compartment on the firewall side of the passenger-side hinge. It can rub against a metal tube (for instance) and eventually wear a hole in the hose. I didn't want to tape it, afraid it might not last in hot engine compartment, or that it might block vacuum. Sales staff at AutoZone gave me ~1" piece of connecting hose. Cut vacuum hose at leak and install connecting hose. Leak wasn't bad enough to affect the front A/C.

try changing the rear air control switch on your das panel. this happened to me on my 96. or it could be a vacuum leak. more than likely the switch. about 30 bucks at ford

Hope that helps!!!

blender door not working

Ours did the same thing in blowing hot air to the floor even when the AC was on.

It is a bad switch on the front of your van- the switch where you can either control the rear climate or switch it to rear control (the one all the way to the right if I remember right). If you are in a pinch and don't want to buy a new switch you can manually manipulate the vacuum lines on the back of the switch. If you take your console cover off and unscrew the plate that fastens the 4 switches to the dash you have access to the wires and vacuum lines. If I remember right there is a yellow and a tan vacuum line that you can pull out from the switch. If you use a piece of small flexible plastic tubing you can put a "jumper" on those two vacuum lines for the summer. I found that a piece of wire insulation works great (strip a piece of wire and use the piece you remove from the wire). For the winter just remove the jumper and the heater will work. Doing this just affects the setting of hot or cold and has nothing to do with the fan speed so everything will work as normal except you have to switch the jumper as applicable for hot/cold.

my 1998 windstar was blowing hot air from the rear vents when i turned on the ac and turned on the rear fan from the front controls , the rear fan control the one right behind the drivers seat next to the ear phone jacks did not function so i disconected it and it started to blow cold air.;.; so i have to think it was a broken switch;..;.;wierd huh

if your vehicle is using dual aircon meaning to say a separate evaporator for front passenger and a evaporator system for back passenger then possibly the problem is the expansion valve of the back passenger evaporator system. it is not any more functioning properly and it has to service by a qualified aircon technician to properly removed the refrigerant ,full down the said evaporator system to be able to replace the defective expansion valve. They will have the evaporator clean and install new expansion valve with same capacity as the defective one. After they have installed it and charge the system then you will enjoy a cold ride.

I'm not sure, but i think the windstar (99) has two seprate computers, one is on the fire wall, and one is in front of hte passenger seat, under the glove box

the pcm is under the wiper cover on the pass side i just replaced one.

It is on the right-hand side and is only accessible from the engine bay. You have to remove the plastic cover against the windshield and remove the metal windshield wiper assembly. It is not difficult.

Ultrartwing

1995: Left inner fender just in front of the firewall

The transmission service is performed by lifting the vehicle in order to get access to the transmission pan. Remove all the bolts that hold the pan in place and the fluid will come out when the pan is being lowerd. From there the filter is accesible and should be changed by simply pulling it downward. The new one is installed by pushing it firmly in place where the old one once was. Clean the pan of the transmission completely including the magnet. place new gasket around the pan and reinstall all the pan bolts. be carefull not to over tighten the pan bolts as it can damage the new gasket the you have put on. next, lower the vehicle and add fluid through the dipstick tube located in the engine compartment. It's best to add 4 quarts then start the vehicle and check the level. If more is needed, add accordingly.

Macs Transmissions

281-394-4951

Macstransmissions@gmail.com

There is none. To change the fluid you need to remove the cover - undo one end first to limit the mess - but yes, it's messy.

See "Related Questions" below for more

NOTE: dropping the pan alone will NOT change ALL the fluids - specifically the fluid that is in the torque converter. That would require a shop to perform a full fluid change with their specialized equipment.

Rick

ASE L-1 Master TransMichigan.com

I suggest you take it to a shop that has a trany FLUSHING machine and will exchange 100% of the fluid and do the filter & gasket at the same time. Add a bottle of seal conditioner when done. With the price of a new trany this should be done every 80,000 kilometers (50-60,000 miles) or check your owners manual for service intervals. Not a lot of shops have this machine so be selective. Might cost up to $200-250.00 for this service to get it done properly but a proper trany rebuild can be $1500-3000.00 or more in some cases on some vehicles.

Flushing the fluid?

But the system should be flushed. Just dropping the pan and draining the oil and changing the filter on your transmission leaves all the used fluid still in torque converter. Have the system evacuated and totally replacing ALL the fluid is a much better approach. It will cost you more but if you plan on keeping the Ford, it's a worthwhile investment.

The steps to activating/deactivating the Autolock feature are detailed in the Owners Manual. See "Related Questions" below for online source of Owners Manual

Activating/deactivating autolock with the keyless entry system

Before following the activation or deactivation procedures, make sure

that the anti-theft system (if equipped) is not armed, ignition is off, and

all vehicle doors and liftgate window are closed.

1. Enter 5 digit entry code

2. Press and hold 7/8 control

3. Press and release 3/4 control while holding 7/8 control

4. Release 7/8 control.

The horn will chirp once if autolock was deactivated or twice (one short

and one long chirp) if autolock was activated.

To re-activate autolock, repeat steps 1-4.


From page 112 of a 2001 owner's manual: Before following the activation or deactivation procedures, make sure the anti-theft system (if equipped) is not armed, ignition is off, and all vehicle doors and liftgate are closed. 1) enter 5 digit entry code 2) press and hold 7/8 control (key) 3) Press and release 3 /4 control (key) while holding 7/8 control 4) release 7/8 control The horn will cirp once if autolock was deactivated or twice (one short and one long chirp) if autolock was activated. To re-activate autolock, repeat steps 1-4.

All dashboard warning lights and symbols are illustrated and explained in the Owners Manual.

See "Related Questions" below for where to find free online versions of 1996 and up Owners Manuals.

Call your local Ford dealer's service department, and ask a service adviser what this might possibly be. Without other information here on the color of the lamp blinking and what other indicators surround this one, it will be quite difficult to diagnose your problem here. If you go to ford.com, and flow the links, you can download a copy of your manuals. User Guide, recommended maintenance, etc...




You can download a free copy of the various Owners Manuals from Ford websites.

See "Related Questions" below for more