Rear: Brake, Back-up, Tail, Turn signal (3 bulbs, all # 3157)
To access the rear bulbs, open the liftgate and remove the two Phillips head screws from the side of the housing as shown in the center photo above. Slowly and firmly rotate the assembly away from the vehicle until it disengages from the ball pin socket that secures it in back.
Each of the three light sockets, all containing the same exact bulb type, can be removed by turning them counter-clockwise 1/4 turn.
The top is the brake lightThe middle is the directional lightThe bottom is the reverse light
Hey Kulwant==It is probably the idle speed motor not reacting when a load is placed on the engine. Sometimes you can remove them and clean them and they will be ok. GoodlukcJOe
I meant, how do you get the rubber line changed that goes up behind the back o the engine and around to the pump. There is a rubber line that joins the p/s rack which I srewed off behind the engine. How do I get the lower part of the rack so I ca have this rubber section replaces?
There should only be 4 cylinders and it should be paired up 1 and 3 then 2 and 4 on two difrent coil packs if it is a new car. if its an older car it should have one coil and a distributer but there still pared up the same.
Splice into the seat belt wires. + - wires.
Run the wires around to your dash board. connect a 100 ohm resister to a switch as if to be parallel with the seat belt circuit. when you flip the switch the car thinks your seat belt is fastened.
The only problem when you actually want to put on your seat belt then you get some error message on the dash. So, flip the switch off then fasten your seat belt. Then your set to go.
-Check to see if there is a plug on the bottom of the seat belt harness and try that... don't know if it will work but a good idea to start with...
always try asking a junk yard too. they tear them apart and should know what does what.
This light serves a dual purpose on most cars.
- Indicates that the handbrake has been applied
- Indicates that there is a problem with the braking system
The latter requires one to have their brake systems checked by a professional.
you have to just keep trying to open it
If it does start it will shut off immediately.
This is a very dangerous repair unless you have the proper tools and skill. The fact that you ask the question would indicate you do not. Take it to a professional. Serious injury or death can occur if you do no know what you are doing.
This could be caused by a lot of things. If it was my car, I'd start by replacing the fuel filter, checking and, if necessary, replacing the plugs and checking/replacing the plug wires. I'd also run a bottle of injector cleaner through the system in case the injectors have gotten dirty or clogged. (I do that every few months just a matter of course) If these things don't solve your problem, I'd suggest taking it in to a diagnostic center as it could be a sensor or a computer problem. Let us know what you find! FriPilot
An instrument panel might go crazy because of an electrical short in the system. When an exposed wire touches a metal area, this can cause the panel to spark or even turn on and off.
Depending on the year (01 and up) some don't have an IAC. It's built into the throttle body design to regulate the idle. If you have idle problems try cleaning the T body good.
remove the 2 bolts on the outside of the lense then pull the assembly out.
Now I about to do this and I fashioned a power lead with a Push on and off switch and going to unhook the fuel line and hook the power lead to the pump and with at small hose to a gas can flip the switch and let it fill the gas can with the pump just have to find away to get to the pump it has a cover on it and yes I tried the other way and the garden hose will not go in side the tank because of a dumb check ball valve
THE HEATER CORE MUST BE REPLACED. IF THE HEATER CORE DOES NOT
WORK THEN YOU'LL ONLY RECEIVE AIR PUSHING THROUGH THE VENTS
THE HEATER CORE HEATS UP WHEN YOU SET TO WARM/HOT AIR ON YOUR DASH BOARD (LIKE LITTLE HOT COILS) THE BLOWER FAN PUSHES THROUGH THE HEATER CORE GIVING HEAT AS IT PASSES THROUGH THE VENTS. THESE HEATER CORES GENERALLY COST $20.OO DOLLARS
EXAMPLE: YOU TURN ON A BOX FAN DURING THE SUMMER TO COOL OFF
AND EVERYTHING IS GOOD/COMFORTABLE. NOW YOU PLACE A RADIATOR
IN FRONT OF THE BOX FAN AND YOU'LL RECIEVE HOT AIR .
GET THE PICTURE. SO THE HEATER CORE AND RADIATOR WORK TOGETHER
AND THE ANTI-FREEZE. THE RADIATOR WARMS UP-THEN THE HEATER CORE
AND THE FAN BLOWER PUSHES THE WARM AIR OUT THROUGH THE VENTS.
HOPE THIS HELPS
CHECK THIS LINK http://www.automotiveforums.com/t524247.html
There is a button under the top cover that releases the internal part of the vcr player to come out of the console.
Even though tape is so "yesterday", I still keep a few in the van for moments of idle entertainment ;)
first take off your front tire.for me its easy this way.you will see the tie rod.remove the pin and take the bolt off.you probably need the ball joint removal tolls.its a Y shape you can rent it to any auto parts like advance auto parts.or use the hummer with 2 by 2 wood cut it to four inches.put the wood of the top of the tie rod stud and hummer it down.you probably dont need the wood coz you going to replace it anyway.just bang it.im sure it come out. after that you see the inner or outer tie rod.the end of your tie rod you have the small bolts make sure you dont unscrew those.just your tie rod.
Go to the dealer, give them the VIN number and they will make you one.
Suggestion has to be interesting to the person directed to, it can be both negative and positive, the latter being the better choice, the power of suggestion is manipulative if it is to the suggestors benefit, solely. Lets say you have some friends and you all have mentioned wanting to go on a vacation together but nothing every gets done, leaving some brochures around at the next get together or dressing in the appropriate clothing sends a signal to their brains that will bring recall about the discussion and get it back on the table again.
speedo hooked up or working properly?
Assuming that has the 2.8 L engine with a carburetor, the carburetor may be in need of a rebuild.
You will need to remove the panel liners inside both sides of the trunk. This will give you access to the top nut of each rear strut. You will need to remove the existing struts to place the new coil springs over the struts. You may need two jacks, one ot jack the car up and one to use to compress the coil spring you are installing. This takes about 1 and a half hours for both rear coil springs. I bolt on the bottom of the sturt and the nut inside the trunk is all you need to remove to get the struts off and replace the coil springs. Make sure you check the quality of the strut mount bushings (rubber gaskets) before you re-install. They re only about $10 a piece from the dealrer and worth the price if you are going to this much work.
Procedures:OUTER TIE ROD END
NOTE: Pickle fork versus a Pitman Arm Puller - pickle forks will likely destroy the grease boot on the outer tie rod! Pitman arm pullers are an excellent alternative and will not break the rubber
Count the number of threads when unscrewing the end from the inner. When reassembling, you'll want the tie rod end screwed onto the new inner exactly the same number of threads to *mostly* preserve the alignment.INNER TIE ROD - IF equipped
TIP: these boot clamps are a real bear to get at and usually end up being cut. I have used a simple nylon zip-tie as a replacement for the clamp - a whole lot easier to put on.
If you are off by several turns you may not notice much (pulling to one side) but it will effect your tires, so I do recommend a front wheel alignment after a tie rod replacement.
Torque 35-46 ft lb
I will assume outers?
Easiest way is to lift front of van, remove front tires. You will see a nut on the spindle/knuckle end of the tie rod. Remove the cotter pins with a pair of sidecutters and undo the nut. If you can't get it out cut the ends off the cotter pin as close to the nut as possible are turn the nut with a socket (preferably) until it breaks the pin off (neither piece will be reused). At the inner end of the outer tie rod there will be a lock nut which is located on the outer end of the inner tie rod that threads into the outer tie rod. (enough inners & outers??? lol). Break loose the nut 1/4 turn or less (you will use this to mark how far to thread the new outer tie rods on) and the outers should be loose on the inner tie rods. Go back to the outer ends at the knuckle where you earlier removed the cotter pins & nuts and you can use a fork (front end tool) to separate the end. If you don't have a fork, a sharp blow with a hammer on the side of the spindle/knuckle where the tie rod end goes through will usually loosen it. Unthread the tie rod ends, lube the threaded outer end of the inner tie rod and thread on new outer tie rods down to the the lock nuts on the inners without turning the inners ( can use small pipe wrenches on vise grips in a pinch). Install the outer tie rod ends into the spindle holes, tighten and don't forget the cotter pin. Tighten the lock nut that 1/4 or less turn you undid at the beginning and you should be done. GET AN ALIGNMENT!! as you will be quite lucky if the steering wheel stays straight and the tires don't wear out quickly.
loosen lock nut on tie rod, just connect outer tie rod from spindle remove outer tie rod measure from lock nut to end of inner tie rod so on the new one you could put the lock nut back in the same spot, remove rubber boot over inner tie rod, you now need a special tie rod socket to remove inner tie rod or a crow foot and a long extension turn the steering wheel so the shaft on rack and pinion is sticking out so you could work on it remove inner tie rod installer in opposite order don't forget to put the new lock pin on new inner tie rod and alignment done so the toe setting is right if off you could wear you tires out