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suck is off
Asked by Jknox336
In my experience with your hand anda few craftsman sockets and lowring the engine (there is no space for a tool to remove it so losen the engine mounts and transmounts takes about 3 to 6 hours to remove&instal plus a can of beer for me and your famiy (babies tooo)
I recently replaced the entire motor on an SL2 97 and the starter wasn't really a big deal.
It is behind the engine so you will need to first disconnect the positive battery cable.
Raise the vehicle.
The area you will be working in will be a bit tight but workable.
I found that removing the mounting bolts, lowering it gave me easier access to removing the wiring from it.
Reverse for installation.
#2 is an improvement over the first, but here's some additional info:
Two bolts. One is almost inaccessible. I used a 13mm deep well socket and a couple of different length extensions (one 4" and one 2") to reach the two different bolts and remove them.
While it helps to get as much room under the car as possible (I was only able to achieve a little under a foot working height with the ramps and jackstands I had), I also used a socket wrench (Stanley part #89-962--http://tinyurl.com/3587et) that allowed me to _twist_ the handle in addition to using a normal ratcheting action. Without it, I seriously doubt I would have removed the old starter and installed a new one in the time I did, since the working area is very, very constricted.
In addition to the two bolts, there are also the two nuts (referred to in answer 2) attaching the electrical leads. Frankly, I found them to be little trouble to remove before removing the mounting bolts, and my Mitchell's and Haynes books suggest removing them first to acoid damaging them.
Quick tip: working under the car in constricted spaces, keep track of nuts and bolts by attaching a STRONG magnet to the oil pan. Simply drop the nuts, bolts, sockets (and even extensions!) UP *heh* onto the magnet for handy retrieval later.
Still, if you are able to rent bay space and use a lift, the removal/installation would be much easier. Still constricted (and the Stanley tool or its equivalent still HIGHLY recommended!), but standing to work would make this a much, much easier task.
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The Chilton for the 1999 Saturn lists it on top of the Transaxle. Since this book also covers repair for the older SC1 models, it should be in the same place.
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02 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 radiator removal: Total removal time: approx. 3 hours. Quick steps:remove/unscrew/unplug:Neg batt terminal, fan wire harness, upper rad hose, 8 bolts holding metal upper rad support, 3 lower screws holding grill, 3 upper screws holding grill, 2 spring clamps on trans lines underneath, CAREFULLY unscrew trans cooler line(upper)(line has fitting and threaded shaft with lock nut, remove just fitting!), remove both headlights, remove upper metal rad support, move rubber air defletors to gain access to 2 10mm rad bolts, access them thru grille opening, from bottom front, lift a/c condenser up off two lower slide in clips, lift up rad/fan/shroud assembly, remove 2 10mm bolts holding shroud, remove shroud/fan assembly, now remove lower trans cooler line, and lower rad hose, slightly bend a/c pressure sensor from passenger side line under upper hose, bend it maybe 8 degrees towards passenger side, now slide rad up and out. if threaded end is attached to trans line, vise grip threads and remove line/fitting combo. Total time start to finish is less than 3 hours.
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Hey just had the same problem in my 92 SC2. The radio fuse box is to the left of where the passengers feet would be. The thing is on mine (not sure if its the same with them all) the fuse was labeled "chime" instead of the actual radio fuse. Might want to get a fuse tester and check them all.
Actually there is a Radio fuse, in the inside fuse box, however as mentioned above, usuallky it is the "chime" fuse which will blow.
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In the fuse pannel. You will have two of them in there and one is for your emergancy flashers the other is for your turn signals.
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check for fuel pressure, should be around 50 psi. try getting someone to bang on the bottom of the gas tank while cranking, might get it going to determine if its the pump
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# The EGR valve is bolted to the rear cylinder head,at the transaxle end # Remove the air intake duct from the throttle body and air filter housing # Detach the vacuum line from the EGR valve.Disconnect the EGR pipe nut # Remove the EGR valve mounting fasteners # Remove the EGR valve and gasket from the manifold.Discard the gasket
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Depending on the vehichle, you may only have one wire going to the starter, which would be the positive wire from the battery. In addition to this wire, many vehicles have a wire or pair of wires going to the solenoid housing on the starter. The positive wire is a very thick, heavy wire, which usually will have a loop terminal at the end, which fits over a post on the starter, which has a nut that threads down to secure the positive wire.
Often wire lengths will give you a hint as to where they should be connected, and wires frequently are bent to fit the connections. Be careful if you are guessing on where the solenoid wires connect, because a mistake could fry the solenoid.
In AdditionMany vehicles may have an additional, fairly heavy wire that runs to the same post as the battery. This wire makes its way to the alternator and is the location of the charging system fuseable link.Asked by Wiki User
Could either be a bad starter drive or a bad tooth on the ring gear/flywheel Try turning the engine manually (large socket on crankshaft) and see if it starts without grinding. If so, probably a bad tooth. If no change probably a bad starter drive
Asked by Wiki User
If it is like the '97 SC2, which it likely is:
Remove the plastic cover from around the steering column.
Turn the old ignition cylinder to ACC (I know what you are about to say... If you can turn the cylinder, why replace it. Unfortunately I can't answer that. I had to drill out the old lock to replace the one on my saturn. Please consult a locksmith before doing so. You don't want to drill into the wrong parts.)
With the old cylinder turned to ACC, there is a small button on the side (probably upper right towards the air vents) Push this button in and the old cylinder should pull out. Installation is reverse of removal (without the drilling...)
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You replace the valve seals on a 1996 Saturn SL1 by removing all of the hardware to get to the valves, unseating them, cleaning them, and sliding the new valve gaskets on. In order to do this you should consider getting a good Chiltons or other repair manual for your make, model, year, and engine.
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Not all 2000 saturns have been recalled or so Im told I have a 2000 Saturn ls2 that ignition just stopped suddenlly one day turned over and nothing (good thing I have remote start)but when trying to get it fixed with recall they said there were very few affected by recall;;;let me know if you come up with ANY solutions,,thanks
Dont replace it!!! Take it to Saturn - ITS FREE - WAS RECALLED, goto the dealer and I am almost sure they will do it free of charge.
Asked by Wiki User
I just found the relay on my 1999 sc2.I have a standard tranny and I followed the wires from the clutch safety switch. My relay was up under the dash on the drivers side taped with electrical tape to the harness. Hard to see get agood flashlight.
Probably at the top of starter- follow the + battery cable should connect to starter solenoid (relay)
Asked by Wiki User
It is relatively simple for any car:
1) Disconnect the battery. This is incredibly important. Do not skip this step.
2) Disconnect the wiring from the back of the old alternator.
3) Remove the belt from the alternator pulley.
3a) If the belt is serpentine look for a spring loaded tension pulley. Push on this and slip the belt off a convenient pulley. The entire belt will go slack.
3b) If you have individual belts the alternator should be mounted on a slotted bracket. Loosen the bolt to this bracket and the alternator should move so you can get the belt off.
4) Remove the old alternator. Depending on the car this is where it gets tricky. Sometimes they bury the thing so well you have to remove other parts of the engine to get it off. Take your time.
5) Insert the new alternator and replace anything else you had to take off.
6) Put the belt back on the alternator and tension it, if necessary.
7) Connect the wiring to the alternator
8) Reconnect the battery.
9) Take a measurement of the system voltage with the motor off.
10) start the motor.
11) Take a measurement of the system voltage. It should be around 14V. If your battery is very dead this may not be the case. Compare to the above measurement. If the voltage is rising to around 14V, it is working.
To get to the alternator, you have to get it from the bottom of the car. Make sure you disconnect the battery! I just did the job today (2-13-06) with another person. You don't need 2 people, but it helps tremendously. It's rather tight in some of the locations, but it's definitely workable.
First, you must remove the front passenger side wheel and place the car up on Jack stands. It helps to have the whole front elevated as you will be working underneath the car most of the time. Then remove the plastic guards that are behind the wheel. They are held in place by two plastic pins (the anchor type pins).
Once the car is up, refer to the diagram under the hood that gives the serpentine belt routing. You'll see the Tension wheel that you need to move. It's really easy to get to from the wheel axle level. Use a 14mm wrench (NOT A SOCKET!, it's too small of a space to fit the barrel of the socket). Grab onto the bolt head on the wheel and turn clockwise. The whole assembly then moves down, as it's on a spring. That will loosen the Serpentine belt. If you have another person, have them remove the serpentine belt from one of the pulleys as you are holding down the tension pulley. Once the belt is off, ease the tension pulley back into place. You can now pull the belt off all the pulleys.
The alternator is held in by two bolts. they are 13mm bolts, you can use a socket for these. The top bolt is harder to find and easier to reach and loosen if you do it from the bottom of the car. It takes time to loosen, but it can be done. The bottom is a long bolt with a nut on the end. You'll need a 13mm wrench and a 13mm socket for this. From under the car looking at the alternator, place the wrench on the left side of the bolt and the socket wrench on the right. The right side is a nut that holds the bolt in place. Remove the nut and pull the bolt out to the left.
Next, there is a plastic guard that protects the wiring. You can remove that by using a 10mm ratchet on the bolt that is on the left hand side (from underneath the car) of the alternator. it sits just above the grounding wire. Remove that bolt. If you have someone helping, have them reach through the top of the car and hold the alternator in place while pushing the guard up. It is also held by a little clip, so if you push up you'll unlatch it. Pull the guard off and set aside.
Next, remove the grounding wire on the side with a 10mm socket wrench. Then unclasp the clip holding the wiring to the alternator with a flat head screw driver. You'll see how the clip is removed when you see it.
Next, remove the alternator. It may be stuck in place, so have someone come from the top or from the bottom to pound one of the sides where the long bolt was. Once free, remove it through the wheel well.
Once you have this done, just reverse the directions to install the new one. It's fairly easy once you've removed it, to see how it's done.
Hook up the battery and start the car!
Answer[removed dupe]
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U1300 is a communication error between computers If either the SDM (air bag computer) or the Pcm (engine computer) or Abs if equipped loses Voltage for a period of time (4secs) the code will set. The air bag light or the service light will be on if the code is current
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On the 2000 LS, the fuel door is tied to the door locks. When the doors are locked, so is the fuel door. When the doors are UNLOCKED, so is the fuel door.
When the fuel door is unlocked you can easily open it.
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I don't know about the 3.5L, but on the 2003 Saturn Vue 2.4L and the 3.0L, it's in the fuel filter. You can get the fuel filter for the 2.4L at any auto parts house, around $70.00. The 3.0L fuel filter/regulator, is a dealer item.
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Or, you could go to eBay and search for "saturn shifter bushing" and get a replacement bushing for around $20. I found this information at this website: http://www.chaosmagnet.com/blog/archives/000112.html if it is a standard tranny your bushing on the stick shift has gone bye bye go to a junk yard and pop off another one and replace as Saturn does not carry this part you must buy the whole shifter cable for around 150-200 bucks I found a set of nylon wiper linkage bushings at Advance Auto, part #49448, that can be modified to work. Most of the major auto supply stores have the same item in the HELP!section. Cut off the end of the bushing at the first indention to make it short enough to work. File off the ridge nearest to the lip on the back so the bushing will slide through the cable end. Put a little grease inside of the bushing, put it through the cable end and and clip it on to the metal knob on the shifter with channel-lock pliers. It takes a little effort with the pliers to get it on. I have been using this for six weeks with no problems. Since there are several bushings in the package, I have modified another and keep it in the car just in case.
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little over 2400lbs in manual and almost 2500 in auto
Asked by Dereckm23
Overhead valves open vertically from the head into the combustion chamber. Overhead valve engines use a system of lifters, push rods, and rocker arms to operate the valves. The cam on an overhead valve system is adjacent to the crankshaft, and the lifters, push rods and rockers work together to operate the valves.
Overhead cam engines position the camshaft directly above the valves. In that position, there is much less weight of the valve operation mechanism, resulting in a potentially higher engine operating speed.
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with the parking brake
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change the map sensor
Asked by Wiki User
First, you share the winnings with the people who built your car, your crew and anyone else who is part of the team. That part is based on your contract and it's impossible to say how much an individual driver would earn from that.
Second, endorsements are based not just on your ability, but also on your general appeal. If you are the best driver on the circuit, but come across as a pedophile, you're not going to get much in the way of endorsements, so that will cut into your ability to earn.
In short, it's difficult to say what such a driver might earn. In life, you don't earn what you're worth, you earn what you negotiate.