First you have to slide off the computer looking thing in front of the battery, you should then see the metal plate it was attached to - which is also holding down the battery... simply remove it with a wrench and disconect the battery cables (black first) and the battery should slide right out.
That depends on how much you want to spend.
A new window can be quite expensive, but a USED window can be relatively inexpensive and in general, a good way of repairing a problem.
Glass doesn't typically "wear out", so a used side window will function as well as a much more expensive new one.
I recently purchased a 1994 Saturn drivers side rear window for $35. It functions as well as a new one and after it has been installed, it's virtually impossible to tell the difference between new and used.
It's intended to prevent excessive leaning when you go around corners. When one front wheel starts to get the extra weight of going around the corner, the sway bar/stabilizer transfers some of the weight to the opposite side spring.
In my experience with your hand anda few craftsman sockets and lowring the engine (there is no space for a tool to remove it so losen the engine mounts and transmounts takes about 3 to 6 hours to remove&instal plus a can of beer for me and your famiy (babies tooo)
I recently replaced the entire motor on an SL2 97 and the starter wasn't really a big deal.
It is behind the engine so you will need to first disconnect the positive battery cable.
Raise the vehicle.
The area you will be working in will be a bit tight but workable.
I found that removing the mounting bolts, lowering it gave me easier access to removing the wiring from it.
Reverse for installation.
#2 is an improvement over the first, but here's some additional info:
Two bolts. One is almost inaccessible. I used a 13mm deep well socket and a couple of different length extensions (one 4" and one 2") to reach the two different bolts and remove them.
While it helps to get as much room under the car as possible (I was only able to achieve a little under a foot working height with the ramps and jackstands I had), I also used a socket wrench (Stanley part #89-962--http://tinyurl.com/3587et) that allowed me to _twist_ the handle in addition to using a normal ratcheting action. Without it, I seriously doubt I would have removed the old starter and installed a new one in the time I did, since the working area is very, very constricted.
In addition to the two bolts, there are also the two nuts (referred to in answer 2) attaching the electrical leads. Frankly, I found them to be little trouble to remove before removing the mounting bolts, and my Mitchell's and Haynes books suggest removing them first to acoid damaging them.
Quick tip: working under the car in constricted spaces, keep track of nuts and bolts by attaching a STRONG magnet to the oil pan. Simply drop the nuts, bolts, sockets (and even extensions!) UP *heh* onto the magnet for handy retrieval later.
Still, if you are able to rent bay space and use a lift, the removal/installation would be much easier. Still constricted (and the Stanley tool or its equivalent still HIGHLY recommended!), but standing to work would make this a much, much easier task.
2003 Saturn L200 holds 15 gal. of gas.
It's not a problem in the slightest. Just drive it.
Inside the combustion chamber, regular and premium are effectively indistinguishable since both explode, forcing the pistons down the cylinder.
The REAL advantage to "super/premium" is the higher octane rating.
A higher octane fuel explodes more slowly or evenly.
High compression engines need premium, since the higher compression causes fuel to explode more rapidly. If the fuel explodes too rapidly, the engine "pings", not just making the characteristic sound, but it can also cause damage.
Premium fuel eliminates pinging in high compression engines, and delivers the power of those explosions more evenly.
High compression engines are not as popular today, since engineers have been able to deliver more power and efficiency with a lower compression engine.
Using premium fuel in a modern, low compression engine will only burn a little slower and not damage the engine at all.
It's just a waste of money to use premium in a low compression engine.
For your 1996 SATURN SL: FIRING ORDER FIRING ORDER 1-3-4-2 Front of Engine (Belt end) --- | 1 | | 2 | | 3 | | 4 |
I have a Saturn 2001 300 L . The lights on the inside of car wont work.
The thermostat is located on the back of the engine under the exhaust manifold There is a pipe that runs across the back of the engine and around the corner to the hose the t-stat is in the pipe right where the hose connects to the pipe Easy to change if you know what you are doing Not easy if you don't Note that whole pipe must come off to replace the stat
they are behind the panel on the passenger side of the console on the back of the panel it shows the # 5 and says Igni..... when the fuse blows it affects the seat belts the speedometer and odometer and the tac at least on mine it does and I am trying to gind out why mine blows fuses all the time Those seatbelts are also called passive restraints and some of the saturns have their own fuse for those. They will blow fuses if starting to seize up. They need to be lubed as part of an ongoing maintenance with something like wd40. The fuse for the seatbelt motors is located on the interior fuse panel on the fuse marked PREST. That fuse protects nothing else on the car. And no other fuse but that one is for the automatic belts. All 1991-1994's are this way. 1995+ went to fixed seatbelts.
Get a manual on your car from the parts store for about $18 and it will help on the next repair.
The Saturn Ls1 that I own I have replaced the brakes twice and each time I am forced to buy the brakes frome Saturn although this car is 5 years old the parts for this 2000 Saturn LS1 are not allowed to be sold on the open market.
You may need to contact a locksmith or have the vehicle towed to a dealership.
If the vehicle is equipped with air bags, don't try to repair it yourself. They can be dangerous especially if you don't take the proper precautions.
If the keyswitch is damaged and THAT's the reason you can't get the key out, you'll need a new keyswitch. For most vehicles that involves removing part of the steering wheel assembly, but it all depends on what's involved to replace the switch in YOUR vehicle. The Saturn L series IS equipped with air bags, and it DOES have the ignition switch on the steering wheel. So have someone do that work for you. Air bags can be very dangerous when they go off unexpectedly, plus they're quite expensive.
look for a tensioner pulley, if you don't know what it looks like. then go to the nearest auto motive store and buy the book on your car. there should be a diagram on how the belt goes around the other pulleys if it is just one big belt, if not then look on the alternator bracket there should be around three bolts that need to be loosened. be sure the belt is tight before you tighten the bolts,put some pressure on the altenator. Hope the info helps...
You reset the computer with an OBD2 scan tool. Or some times if it is not a hard code by that i mean a real problem you can disconect the batt. for a hour this some times work but the newer cars are harder and harder to do this with
The rear main is located between the engine and transmission and requires transmission removal to be changed. BIG job
The fuse panel with the horn fuse and relay should be adjacent to the battery.
Have vehicle scanned to have codes cleared
You may need to have the "Body Control Module" replaced on your car. We have a 2002 Saturn L200 and the same symptoms occured. Dash lights were flashing, dome light flashing, couldn't shift out of park, etc. Dealer replaced the part under warranty (at the time) and we haven't had the problem since.
The serpentine belt you can look at the diagram in your engine compartment for actual routing.
The tensioner mounts to the left side of the engine. You need to unbolt the whole assembly.
Actually, the belt can be loosened by tightening the bolt of the tensioner pulley. When fully tightened, the pulley will act as a swivel.
No more so than any other engine. Other than break-in oil, my Saturn has never seen anything except synthetic oil. As such there is no possibility of paraffin (sludge) buildup inside the engine. If the engine does not have more than 50,000 miles on it I would consider changing to synthetic oil and don't worry about the flush. I wouldn't anyway. The simple fact is, it's a machine that the dealers have purchased and they want to see if they can get people to actually pay big bucks to use it. The value is marginal especially since the flush does nothing for the surfaces which may actually build engine sludge.
For the most part, I agree with Redbeard. Synthetic is the way to go in the initial 50,000 miles anyway. I would never do an engine flush. Generally, the sludge that is freed up (from lack of maintenance) is dropped to the oil pan, which in turn is picked by the oil pump-stopping lubrication.
remove the door and window crank handles with a special tool from the parts store, Then all of the screws you can find esp at the corners. Then the retainers with a special tool around the sides and botton fo the door.This is not an easy job.
If by the "cyclops light" you mean the third brake light, I went to auto zone and purchased 6 ea. part number 858352 instrument panel connectors and added number 194 bulbs to them. All you have to do is pull (gently) on the cover and it will come off. It snaps in place. Twist the bulbs 1/4 turn ccw to remove, insert new assembly and voila, you're in business. The other brake lights are behind the carpet in the trunk. Be sure to remove the correct bulb or you will replace the turn/marker lamp and still have a brake light out. Good Luck.
The horn is right under the left headlight assy two 10mm bolts..The fuse is in the underhood fuse block right beside the battery It is labeled on the cover of the fuse block....You probably need a horn if it's inop
If the horn still works for your alarm, (when you lock or panic) the fault is most likely the slip ring/spring in your steering wheel. That provides the negative side of he circuit to make the relay honk the horn. If every now and then the horn works, until you turn a few times, this is most likely the problem. Could also be the horn relay (under the hood, clearly marked in a fuse panel there.)
5qts, including the contents of the filter, which does not drain to the pan when the engine shuts down.
I think you should just check it b/c all cars are different, but usually between 4 and 5. Remember to run the engine before you pull the metal stick out again!
Not all 2000 saturns have been recalled or so Im told I have a 2000 Saturn ls2 that ignition just stopped suddenlly one day turned over and nothing (good thing I have remote start)but when trying to get it fixed with recall they said there were very few affected by recall;;;let me know if you come up with ANY solutions,,thanks
Dont replace it!!! Take it to Saturn - ITS FREE - WAS RECALLED, goto the dealer and I am almost sure they will do it free of charge.
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