That sounds more like a mechanical problem with the cruise control cable. Check for a damaged or worn cable from the cruise control module or from the accelerator pedal.

You should take the vehicle to a shop that specializes in Saturn's, and describe the problem. Don't take it on the highway again until the problem is repaired; in fact, you probably shouldn't really be driving it.

Have you call your local library. That might have one in the reference area.

remove the door and window crank handles with a special tool from the parts store, Then all of the screws you can find esp at the corners. Then the retainers with a special tool around the sides and botton fo the door.This is not an easy job.

Nothing happens, except your wallet will be lighter.

First step: Drop the fuel tank. That's a lot easier if you siphon out most of the fuel first.

From there, it's all pretty intuitive.

1. jack the vehicle up on both sides, use jack stands if possible.

2. Remove Passanger front tire, along with plastic splash shield

3. Drain coolant

4. With serpentine belt still installed, loosen the 3 bolts on the water pump

pully, don't take them all the way off, just loosen them.

5. Use a 14mm wrench to reduce tention on the serpentine belt enough

so you can slide the belt off

6. Remove the water pump pully bolts, remove pully, or let it rest on the

pump shaft.

7. Remove water pump housing bolts (6 of them) and discard the gasket

8. reverse procedure to reinstall new water pump

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on majority of caprices with this stalk operated beam changer a rod is pushed by stalk operating a switch usually located on same side of column just behind facia u should be able to pull rod to change beams a new lever is best long term fix

It's surprising how little accurate information is available regarding shock absorbers/struts.

Almost everything you hear from mechanic shops and salesmen is wrong, and most of what you read on the internet is simply regurgitation's of the information that came from those simple-minded mechanics.

Before you decide to replace shocks, you need to understand what they do.

Imagine your tire is a basketball, rolling down the road. When it hits a pothole or other bump, the basketball will bounce. You don't want the basketball to bounce, since that causes the basketball to leave the road.

The tire of your car bounces too, even though the springs try to keep it on the ground. But when the tires bounce you will feel the slight loss of control, especially if you're trying to maneuver a curve on a washboard road.

Properly functioning shock absorbers limit the speed with which a tire can travel in one or both directions.

Shock absorber salesmen will try to tell you that "Double Action" shocks are better, yet auto manufacturers typically use single action shock absorbers for most production vehicles. You don't need to control every action of the wheel/springs, just enough to prevent the tire from leaving the road. If a single action shock absorber is good enough for the automotive engineers, it's certainly good enough for me.

So, back to the original question; when do you need new shocks.

1. if the shock absorber(s) are leaking oil, you probably should replace them, even if they ARE still doing their job. If they're leaking oil, they are just about through.

2. If you can bounce the car by hand, and the car keeps going when you stop helping it... in other words, bounce the car up and down a couple times, then when you let go see how long it takes to stop; if it moves down, then pretty much stops after you quit pushing, the shocks are probably okay.

3. Check the bushings. These are the rubber grommets that go between the shock absorbers and the frame/axle. If the grommets are worn out or missing, you need new shocks; well actually you need new grommets, but they come with the new shocks.

4. If the vehicle tends to keep bouncing as you go down the road, you need new shock absorbers.

On most Saturn's, the OBD2 port is on the bottom of the dashboard, next to the steering column.

It isn't your transmission that's stalling. It is your engine that stalls. The on-board computer is supposed to incease the engine Idle to prevent this. It will require more troubleshooting to find the part(s) that is(are) the culprit. Start by scanning the ECM for trouble codes and go from there.

Star the car, drive around for a few till it gets hot, then look at the fan and if the car is hot

you can hear it running and you can feel it pulling air if you put your hand by it.

To test the fan...use a 2" wire 18 gauge like the wires used in the harness for radio connector. strip 1/8 " each end. Now find fan thermocouple sending switch which is the second lower switch located on driver side or right side of engine towatd the front , near the top. it has two wires going to it , the other has one. squeez the black

connector and pull it off. Loop the connection(place wire, one in each hole) being careful not to let the bare wires touch. Start engine and the fan should turn on ok....If not it is bad. If it does and wont turn on when temp reaches 175 when connected to thermocouple switch, the switch is bad....

Sometimes the Steering wheel lock will rest on the locking mechanism and not let you turn the ignition switch. Try turning the wheel one way or the other to relieve the pressure while tuning the ignition switch. If this does not work then you may either have a worn out ignition swtch, Key, or there is a mechanical failure of the switch.

The V6 has a timing belt, the 4 cylinder has a timing chain. The LS 200 is SUPPOSED to have a 6 cylinder engine, so it would have a timing belt which should be replaced every 100,000 miles.

Inset into the engine block. Examine the routing of the serpentine belt and you'll see one of the pulleys that seem to drive off the BACK side of the belt. Look closely and you'll see that it's the water pump.

The front are 6.5" and the rear are 5.25" and if yours has tweeters then those are .75"

we looked all over the car and there is no easy way or shortcut to replace the fuel pump on this car. it seems the easiest way to get to it is loosen the exhaust.

Find a suitable collection container that can adequately contain about 5 quarts of oil.

Place the container directly under the engine.

Remove the oil drain plug at the bottom of the engine oil pan and position the collection container such that the oil from the engine will collect in the container.

While the oil is draining from the engine, remove the oil filter cover; it should be a round cap that has a hex shaped casting to enable easy removal. Another container could be used to collect the oil that leaks from the oil filter assembly, or if the collection container is large enough, it could be used for collecting both the oil pan oil and the oil filter oil.

IT'S A MESSY JOB, SO HAVE PLENTY OF RAGS AVAILABLE!!!

Replace the oil pan plug, using a new gasket if you can find one.

Install a new oil filter using a new "O" ring. (coat the new "O" ring with a light film of old motor oil to help it seal.)

Make certain everything is tightened properly. (for the oil filter, read the directions on the container.)

Open the oil fill cap at the top of the engine and pour in 4 quarts of high quality oil.

Start the engine briefly and check for leaks around the oil filter. Make certain that the oil pressure comes up. (watch the oil pressure indicator on the dashboard)

Turn off the engine, let it sit for a few minutes then check the oil level using the dipstick. You'll no doubt need to add the fifth quart of oil, but do so at this time.

Assuming you mean the throttle position sensor. The throttle position sensors tells the engine computer when the throttle position has changed, it adjusts fuel flow to match the throttle opening. If the throttle position sensor fails then the engine computer has to depend only on the MAP sensor to define air flow thus how to adjust the fuel flow. I would expect then that response time would be slower than when the throttle position sensor works correctly.

On a Chevy Celebrity it might also turn on the check engine light and post either a code 21 or a code 22.

The L-series manual shows 4 instances of this icon. If the light shows:

1) lines angled down = HEADLIGHT LOW BEAM

2) lines stright out = LIGHTS ON HIGH BEAM

3) lines broken (dots) = DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS

4) lines show verticle squiggle = FOGLIGHTS