How to test an ignition coil
This testing procedure is valid for just about any automotive coil. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the side terminals of the coil. Do this with all of the wires to the coil disconnected.
You should see 0.75 to 0.81 ohm of resistance. Then check the resistance between either side terminal and the center high tension terminal. The reading should be 10,000 to 11,000 ohms. Any significant deviation from these numbers would indicate that the coil could be defective.
You can also rest an ignition coil by using a volt meter.There should be a little over 12 volts pulse, or a dip and peak in the meter needle, rather than a steady 12 volts, at the output, while cranking the engine.
Be careful about these answers. My voltmeter has a 9 volt battery installed. An ignition coil can produce 20 kV - that is twenty thousand volts! - at 100 mW, now that would bother me a bit.
So now, how can we check this coil safely? Well, start by shorting the output (the high tension terminal) and check the primary winding for continuity. On a normal meter 0.75 ohms might be very hard to read but, if you use a 1.5 flashlight bulb and battery in series with it, if the bulb lights, the primary winding is probably ok. (Unless its insulation has got fried by a fault called a "shorted turn", in which case the flashlight bulb will still light up but the ignition coil still won't work...)
The secondary, high tension, winding of the coil can be checked by shorting it with a high resistance load having a tap to form a 1000:1 split ratio, so you can use your meter to check for an output voltage of around 20 volts when a small 1.25 volt battery is connected and disconnected to the primary.
The actual output voltage should let you work out the turns ratio between primary and secondary of the coil. maybe Note: to see the output voltage for a longer time, add a diode and capacitor onto voltage divider tap.
I need to know how to check a coil on a Honda accord 94
There are 2 fuse boxes / fuse panels in nearly every Ford product: one directly above the driver's left foot (when the driver is actually sitting in the driver's seat). The other is inside the engine compartment, on the right side - contains high current fuses.
There is extensive coverage of fuses and the circuits each one protects Owners Manual.
See "Related Questions" below for sources of free online Owners Manuals for 1996+ Ford & Mercury products.Checking & Changing A Fuse
Inside the fusebox cover is a small white plastic tool for pulling fuses out.
Inspect the center section of the fuse to determine if it has 'blown' - it will be obvious if the metal strip has melted.
Insert a replacement fuse of the same color / amperage protection by simply pressing it into the fuse-slot.Checking a fuse
Generally, if a fuse is 'blown' you can tell by looking at the fuse. Look at the wire looking thing in the top on the fuse. It'll look kind of broken or burned or just otherwise messed up. If you're not sure what a good fuse looks like, go to an auto store and look at a new fuse. Then look at your fuses and compare appearances.Getting the engine compartment Power Distribution box cover off
There are actually two separate covers. One is for the circuit breakers and one for the fuses. There's a tab in the center that you squeeze together and it pops off. In the cover you'll find spare fuses and a puller. If you still need to get the breaker cover off, there's a tab on the corner marked "lift". With the other cover removed, you can then unsnap the tab and wiggle it out.
Go to the dealer service dept and ask them to photocopy the diagram out of their service manual for you. They should do this for you with no problem.
If you want an owners manual try MOTORLIT.COM.Answer
Under the dash just to the left of the steering column.
Underneath the drivers side kick-board / panel underneath the steering column.
One fuse box is located under the hood by the battery. Another is under the left side of the dash. Carl
Not real sure for this model but I think there is a fuse box by the battery under the hood and another one under the left side of the dash. Carl
power fuses are next to battery in a black looking contaner there is a lid that has to be removed. the regular fuses are located underneaath the dashboard on the drivers side above your left foot... if you are sitting in the van
there are two fuse boxes, one is in the engine compartmente near de battery, the other one is under de driver side near the steering column.
It depends on the fuse. Most of the fuses in use today are small plug-in plastic devices. Simply grab them with needle nose pliers or a fusepuller and pull them straight out. They are color coded as to ampacity. There are two fuse blocks in the Windstar. One is in the engine room by the battery. The other is under the left side of the dash. Enjoy.... Carl
you can go to www.alldatadiy.com and you can buy a subscription for a year just for 25 bucks plus they have a lot information about your car, works pretty good for me.Answer
I think I seen it on this sight http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generalinfo/l/bl_img_ford023.htm
you have to look around. there are a lot of pages.Click on the link below Click on Owner Guides The owners manual ( which includes the fuse box diagram ) can be viewed on-line The interior fuse panel is located under the dash panel on the left side wall near the driver side of the vehicle. it is enclosed with a black plastic cover. The power distribution unit fuse panel is a black plastic box located in the engine area near the battery, the battery should be disconnected before replacing fuses in the power distribution unit according to the owner's manual. The fuse box is located on the drivers side about half way up from the floor, it is mounted on the side and is made of black plastic roughly 4 inches wide and 6 inches high. The cover just snaps on and off.
Click on the "Ford Website" link below
Click on Owner Guides
The owners manual ( which includes the fuse panel diagram ) can be viewed on-lineIt can be found under the left side of the dash.
It is driving cycles not miles. It varies from manufacture to manufacture.
Here is some advice from contributors:
For more information please refer to the related link.
If your car uses the special long-life coolant dex-cool (orange) no immediate damage with normal 50 water 50 antifreeze. However, according to GM for my Oldsmobile Intrigue doing this would reduce the suggested coolant maintenance point from 150,000 miles down to 30,000 miles.
If your car uses normal (green) anti-freeze and you were to use dex-cool it could permanently damage the vehicle since the particles not designed for the vehicle will always remain.
So what did the manufacturer suggest as optimal and what did you put? And what do you consider as damage? Introducing a hassle or complete breakage?
Give the battery a shock, it should give your car a bit of a boost. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT IT FIRST OR YOUR CAR MAY EXPLODE. (the shock may ignite the petrol).
Where on earth did you get a stun gun???
Absolutely no. A stun gun gives off a high voltage , very low current charge. Not enough to start a car. And the high discharge could destroy the electronic of the car just like a bolt of lightning.
So, you are saying the engine turns over but will not start? it takes 3 things for an engine to run. Fuel, Air, & Spark. You must determine which one of these you are missing. More than likely not air. So that leaves fuel & spark. Is the fuel pump running as soon as you turn on the ignition without starting the engine? It should run for a few seconds then shut down. If not, suspect the fuel pump fuse, relay, or the pump itself. Have you replaced the fuel filter in the last 36,000 miles? If not it may be clogged. Do you have fire at the spark plugs. It is a matter of elimination.
The battery is working, it is ok, you should check the starter and ignition.
It is necessary on cold, especial extremely cold days. REASON BEING: Is that it takes the oil to reach it's proper viscosity longer time than on warm days. When you do start car, don't race it or you'll be doing more damage. Let it stay at idle for about 3 - 5 minuets until you see the temperature gauge start to get to move to a hotter position, or better yet, until you have heat. Reason is that thick oil cannot easily flow though tiny holes in crankshaft, push rods not getting oil into small spacers in cylinder block, valve guides, rocker arms and oil control rings leaving a dry cylinder wall, which causing wear to cylinder bore. Sometimes in really cold places, they suggest using a lighter gauge oil.
I will give my answer which is in opposition the the above answer somewhat. In years past when cars had carburetors it was a necessity to warm the engine up before driving off because the engine simply would not run correctly until the carb got warm. Today it is a bad idea to let the car idle for more than a couple of minutes max before driving off. Reason being is that on todays modern engines with computer controlled fuel management systems it is not necessary and is in fact a waste of fuel and pollutes the atmosphere plus harms the converter. Modern fuel injection systems do not need to warm up to work properly as an old carburetor did. They work instantly and the ECU adjusts the fuel/air mixture to compensate. Modern oils of today are also a far cry from what they were decades ago. Modern Oil sticks to all parts better today than in the past. This is not the same formulation that we had decades ago. There is a thin layer of oil on all parts when you start the engine due to modern refinery processes, so you are not causing wear to that engine if you drive slowly until it reaches full operating temperatures. Modern vehicles will warm up very quickly if driven but not so fast if sitting at idle. You are also doing your catalytic converter no good by letting this very rich mixture of fuel/air enter a cold converter that does not work well when cold. Just drive away slowly, avoiding full throttle until the engine is warmed up. This is 2010 not 1955. Things have changed.I can see the above point of view. But there is still a disagreement on oil. yes there will be a very, very thin layer of oil on the cylinder walls, but even sythetic oil will settle downwards ,and on a 20 degree day will be sticky and wipe off in one piston stroke. it still ,in my opinion, takes a little bit of time for oil to thin out as it gets warm. Has enyone ever went to change oil on a 10 to 20 degree day. It barley comes out of the drain hole, unless you let it run for even a minute, can you picture this oil flowing through tiny openings. however, point is well made that idleing and driven slow for the same amount of time will do the same exact thing. Main point is ; don't reve the engine right away, or drive fast for a few miniutes. Note: in places like Alaska, they use a heating source overnight because the car may not even turn over or do it slowly, because the oil is so thick.
Ans 3 -The second answer is the correct one. Letting a modern engine idle for long periods is not good with modern oils being as 'clingy' as they are.
Cranks but won't start:
In a situation like that I always tell people to go back to the basics: Spark, fuel and Compression. If you have all three, it should start. The spark has to be at the correct timing, but if the vehicle was running and suddenly stopped, there isn't much reason to believe that the timing changed. The fuel has to be delivered in an approximately correct quantity for the engine to run right but it should at least pop and attempt to start. So... Start with fuel. Using starting fluid, spray in the throat of the throttle body while a friend attempts to start the engine. If the engine runs while you're spraying, you probably have a fuel problem. Check the fuel line for pressure. If you don't have any it's probably the fuel pump. It's in the tank and you'll have to drop the tank in a suburban to get to the fuel pump. It isn't as bad as it sounds. Disconnect the battery first. Siphon out as much as you can get easily, disconnect the fuel fill pipe from the tank, using a floor jack, support the tank while you remove the straps. There are usually only two. Once the straps are disconnected, lower the tank and remove the fuel line and the wires to operate the fuel pump and fuel gague. You'll have to clean the top of the tank so that you don't get debris inside, then remove the screws and work the pump assembly out of the tank. On the other hand... if you have fuel pressure and the engine doesn't start when you use the starter fluid, you probably have a problem with ignition. Pull one spark plug wire, then using a spare plug from some other source, attach the wire to the spare plug and lay the plug on a metal part of the engine, then crank the engine and watch the plug. If you have spark it might be something else. If there is no spark, find out why. It could be the pickup coil, electronic ignition module, high voltage coil or even a bad rotor in the distributor. It's all a process of elimination. Remember the words of Sherlock Holms, "When all other possibilities have been eliminated..."
Could be flooded (especially if carbureted), you could have a wire disconnected if you've been messing around under the hood, or there could be humidity in the distributor.
A common fault is the Crank Position Sensor (CPS).
This is an induction coil mounted just above the crank pulley.
If the tachometer does not register at all during cranking, the CPS has probably failed.
Try idle air control valve
You mean Alternator, right? You lose power to go! But brfore that you will start losing systems such as heater, lighting, then power to your coil. 20,000 Dcv to coil provides spark for combustion.
the best bet is not to run out of gas, turning the key to the on position turns the fuel pump on for about 3 seconds, then turn the key off, wait 5 seconds then turn it to the on position then continue to start the the vehicle. it should run normally with no problems.
This is assuming you drive a fuel injected vehicle. A carburetor needs to be primed by putting a small amount of gas in the carburetor and trying to start it. You may have to do this a few times until it will run on it's own.
NEVER PUT GAS IN WHILE CRANKING THE MOTOR !!!
It could flash back in your face and singe your eyebrows (don't ask me how I know). Or cause you to lose your eyesight, or worse yet, singe your lungs!
I also recommend to pull out your car's manual to see if it has special instructions about starting your car after you've ran out of gas. I remember when my cousin took his gf that he met on 'dream marriage' on a road trip, and he ran out of gas he didn't check that his car had a fuel injection reset button that he supposed to set.
As far as cars with carburetors never NEVER pour raw gasoline into them. The pressure from the fuel pump should be enough to get fuel to it. If gasoline is not getting to the carburetor then there is something else wrong. If you ran out of gas, the fuel filter is probably clogged because running the tank to empty will pick up a lot of crap that is on the bottom of the tank. Another way to get the car going, and gas thoughout the system (fuel injector systems), Is to spray carberator cleaner into the Air intake mainifold (throttle body).
Here are more opinions and answers from other FAQ Farmers:
Another ting to try is removing the spark plugs (make sure you re- cord which wires go where) and pro vidind that the engine isn't flooded
spray some starting fluid(avalible at auto parts stores) in the hol where the spark plug was and put the spark plugs back in and try to start it if it begins to start but then shuts off
your problem is proboly fuel delivery, but if the engine is flooded take out the plugs and let it sitt for a while to dry out.
There is a little sprocket in your strarter looks like a cog with teeth on in, but the teeth can chip or break if the metal is cheap which in most cars now days it is. So the starter is turning but the missing teeth are not connecting to make a spark keep turning it samething happened to my Buick but i didnt gte is fixed rite away because if you keep cranking evetually the teeth will catch and ignite
a motor needs fuel/ spark / air / compression all at the correct time check sources of all from major parts to minor (id start with anything electrical) you should find the problem
- One other thing that could possibly have gone bad is the main relay, its a $50 part that gives the fuel pump power when the key is on, so bad relay, no power to pump, no gas, no start.
-you need, spark, compression and a proper fuel mixture for your car to start. Generally, the compression gives way over time, so it is the last thing you should suspect if this problem appeared overnight. First thing you should try is to turn the key to the "on" position (not the crank start position). You should hear an electronic hum coming from the fuel tank. If you don't hear the hum, check the fuel pump relay or fuse. If those are fine, the fuel pump is suspect. If you do hear the hum, your fuel pump is working fine. Check for fuel pressure in the fuel line. It should look like a valve like the one you might find on a bicycle tire. If fuel sprays out, your fuel pressure is fine, which means you can suspect the spark. The battery is not the culprit (it turned the starter remember). Check for spark as noted above. If you don't get spark, check spark from the coil. Depending on the model and technology of your car, you can then suspect the ignition control module (esp. if it was a hot day) , as well as the distributor and all its components like the rotor and distributor cap.
By the way, most, if not all new cars have an inertia trip switch. Mine is under the dash. .
I just wanted to add another two cents about the topic of bleeding or burping the power steering system:
1. Know what type of power steering fluid is needed for your car. Some power steering pumps can use automatic transmission fluid, others have specific power steering fluid for each car, i.e. Honda requires and suggests that you use Honda's brand of power steering fluid (see owner's manual). Make sure you know, or the warranty from the dealership or from the parts store may be voided.
2. Before attaching the power steering belt, fill pump with required amount and type of fluid (see owner's manual), and then turn the pulley wheel by hand a few times. This helps cut down on dry turns before they can happen. If more power steering fluid is needed, fill accordingly.
3. Attach the power steering belt with proper amount of tension (see owner's manual).
4. Turn vehicle on and proceed to turn the steering wheel all the way right and left 3-4 times.
5. Turn the vehicle off, and examine that the belt tension is acceptable, and again check the level of fluid and fill accordingly.
6. Always, always check your owner's manual before performing any maintenance on your vehicle. An educated car owner is a safe car owner!Another possibilityHow long has the pump run without fluid? There could be damage inside to the cam and rotor (assuming it's a vane type pump), or to the plates, or it could be cavitating due to the ingress of air -- possibly why the fluid leaked out in the first place.
I too experienced very loud whining noise from my 93 Ranger 3.0's power steering pump at idle, and even louder when turning the steering wheel even a little bit in either direction. I changed the fluid but there was no change in noise. I read in a Ranger forum that if you add some STP oil treatment (yes, STP OIL TREATMENT), not the whole can, it would help. I decided to give it a try and sure enough it has reduced the noise greatly. It didn't completely eliminate it but people no longer stare at my vehicle at red lights because of the noisy pump. That was embarrassing! Ford's pump must be partly to blame since the problem is so rampant among all their various models.
By the way, Mercury is supposed to begin being phased out (discontinued) beginning in 2010 and completely gone by 2012. Only Ford and Lincoln will remain. Just thought ya'll might want to know that since your Mercury's value will likely plummet as that kill-off nears. However, those of you who have a stiffy for Mercs may get a good deal on one before they are gone. I personally don't think they are "all that". Fords in general are pretty low market in build and longevity. I used to favor GM but switched to Honda products in the 90s, they are very long-lived. My latest is a Jaguar and I'm quite happy with it. Yes I know they were owned by Ford and now by Tata Motors but the design is all Jag.
A typical senario with fords in general.
Just a stab in the dark.
Has it got spark.
To test for spark, place a screwdriver in the end of the lead. wave the screwdriver over the rocker cover about 2 to 3 mm above it and get someone to crank it. If you see no spark, I'd replace the ingition module.
It's located inside the distributor.
You will need to remove the distributor to replace the module.
You will need to mark the dizzy. I usually you a centre punch. Punch two dots, one on the head, and one on the dizzy, next to each other. That will tell you the position of where the dizzy goes.
Next remove the dizzy cap.
Notice where the rotor button is roughly. Cos the dizzy can only go in two postions. The right position and 180 degrees out.
Undo two bolts which secure the dizzy and remove dizzy. Good oppotunity to cha nge the dizzy o-ring cos they often leak after disturbing the dizzy.
Dismantle the dizzy and replace the module. Pretty self explanitary.
To test. With new module in, turn ign on. and spin the dizzy byt hand, you should see spark.
That's usually what goes wrong in Fords if it's got no spark. If it's got spark, is it getting fuel. Pull hose off end off fuel filter. and see if it's pumping fuel. Check both sides of the fuel filter for blocked filter.
If not pumping, replace fuel pump. They usually blow a hole in the diaphragm, so it won't pump fuel.
Other then that, that's what usually happens.
If your car hesitates when the brakes are applied, and or when you are driving it acts like it is giving itself gas, or accelarating on its own, The problem is your Throttle Position Sensor(TPS). It costs about $34.00 at autozone, and only takes about 10minutes to replace. sounds like you need a tune up. could possible be fuel filter or fuel pump. sounds like you need to replace fuel filter, air cleaner, and maybe a tune up
It could be battery connection, discharged or faulty battery, faulty alternator or regulator, faulty starter or a loose and corroded connection on the starter.
No spark .no fuel.
The first thing I would check is the idle speed, second thing I would look (and listen) for is a vacuum leak, these are the 2 most common causes of your problem. Bill Alley
Check the plugs to make sure they aren't fouled. Then maybe the fuel pump. If it dies when you hit the brakes, that's electrical. I'd say it's the fuel pump, filter, etc.
When plugs are fouled, it probably wouldn't want to start, and brakes aren't electrical and the fuel pump isn't real likely either. Or maybe it ins't any of these, may want to look further down the list for a better answer.
Actually when you step on the brakes, it takes power from the battery or alternator to run the pump for the master cylinder on the brakes. (not true)
Doing so will cause your car to stall if the idle is too low. Turn the idle up and see if it happens again.
Same thing with the in gear driving. Putting the car in gear will drop the rpm to half or less than what it is already. Or maybe there is a better explanation down below.
The brakes have no pump. If they are power brakes, then it has a booster (and the booster uses engine vacuum, not electrical power) you can't adjust the idle speed in a FIed car. When you put the car in gear, the rpm should stay steady since the FI system should adjust for loads on the engine (turning the a/c on, putting car in gear, turning on lights etc) Do a tune up and go from there. By the sounds of it though, this is a lock-up torque convertor problem. The convertor lock is stuck on so the torque convertor is "solid" when you put it in gear.
If it is not an engine problem, it should be a problem with the transmission. When the gearshift is in drive, in this case, the gears get jammed with each other, causing the whole engine/drivetrain to lock up, stalling the engine. You should get a repair as soon as possible.
I know this sounds dumb,but i had a firebird that did the same thing in my shop & the only thing wrong was somebody put the wrong Tail light bulb in the socket & then forced it in wrong so when the brakes were applied it back fed the ignition system & killed the motor-It turned out 2 b a easy fix because I noticed the front running lights would come on when the brakes were applied when it pulled in 2 the shop.
I had that happen to me with my 86 Grand Am, it turned out to be a PCV valve, which was very cheap to fix...you could also try that.
It sounds like something I have been going through, In my case the car has an automatic transmition and the "Lock up celenoid" is the culpret. This little item (costs about 40 bucks give or take) is located in a ussually easy to get to area In my ride it is there right after removing the Trany pan.
What this thing does is causes the Torque converter to "Lock up" to the drive shaft - ussually in an overdrive type thing. When it gets stuck your car will stall.
The fixes that where suggested to me where replace the celenoid or try to use fresh trany fluid ( for a short term fix )
check your fuel filter & fuel pump/pressure...........also, once you put it in gear it puts a load on the engine, faulty igniton wires may start to "arc" once the load is on, it will cause engine to run like s***t or even stall completely...
Have a 95 Barina C14NZ with auto tranmission. Drives fine, idles fine, but when it is put into gear it stalls. Traced fault to temperature sensor connector (the one for the computer at the back of the manifold -- not the fan one at the radiator). This connector had some minor corrosion which increased the resistance and hence told the computer that the engine is cold, even when the engine was at operating temperature. This caused the engine to idle a bit higher, so when it was put into Drive or Reverse, it would cause the transmission to grab and stall the engine. Wriggling the connector temporarily fixed the problem; and replacing the temperature sensor was the final remedy. Good luck trouble shooting! :-)
I have 93 New Yorker - Car ran fine in park, but any other gear and it stalled. Believe it or not the black box (with the keys) had batteries that were dead. It had to do with the car alarm - New batteries, car runs fine in all gears. You could give it a try.
Dead battery, loose or corroded battery connection, or defective ignition switch. Can also be a defective neutral safety switch.
The system uses five wires and a receiver or antenna wire that accepts the signal from the remote. A blue wire, a purple wire, a pink wire, a red wire, and a black wire. The black wire of course is the ground. The pink and red wires are set up with a vampire bite to the constant power and the ignition power. Red to constant, and pink to ignition which gets power from the "run" position when the key is so turned to it. I can't remember right now which one of the blue or purple that is connected off the vehicle harness or which one gets connected to the "start" function of turning the key, but it honestly doesn't matter because these two are the ones that conduct the "magic." In my car, a yellow wire that connects the "start" function to the starter was cut and one of those wires is connected from the main harness and the other to the starter connector at the steering column. The idea is that electrical current will attempt to travel to the starter but is routed to the pass time unit to check if the code is current, if it is the connection is made and the car starts, if not, then the circuit is not able to close and you will get no power to the starter. To bypass this, simply cut the two wires that re route that current and splice them back together leaving the pass time unit out of the routing completely. If your pass time unit is a GPS enabled one, I would suggest not tampering, but if you must, do not disconnect the unit altogether, just leave the red, black and pink wires connected so that the system can communicate that it is powered back to the company that is responsible for the surveillance of that communication.
the spark plugs may be bad/or failing, and the engine is warm enough to sustain (SP?) itself and let it run at a ideal temprature..(mostly oil temp) affects running effectiveness == ANSWER== wish my vehicle only took 10 seconds to start, and there is nuthing wrong with my vehicle. but all vehicle take a little longer to start when cold. the "cough" is usually caused by the choke not working quite correctly modern cars are made to start without touching the gas pedal older cars you had to use gas pedal to engage automatic choke so if newer car cough is caused by excess gas in chamber keep foot off gas pedal hard habit to break i know,
The reason why it is so difficult to sometimes start a car on a rainy day is simple. The rain creates condensation inside the intake that enters the combustion chamber of the engine and causes the fuels rate of ignition to decrease. This in turn causes the ignition at the spark plug to be delayed and hence the engine cranks and cranks when this condition exits. If this doesn't make sense, then maybe read other answers. Several reasons: When objects get colder they expand. this causes small ammounts of restricion in the cylinders. Your oil is cold. oil becomes thicker at lower temperatures preventing quick circulation through the engine. Reasons 1 and 2 work together. poor initial lubrication and slightly restricted cylindars cause friction and make it harder for your engine to turn over. If this seems illogical then keep reading. * Only water expands as it gets colder due to the polarity of the water molecule. All other matter generally contracts, becomes more dense, and takes up less volume. * ** The argument is wrong, but the idea is right, lower temperature, higher viscosity, that's what I guess the above answer is trying to say.
On cars with distributorless ignition systems spark plug wires and spark plugs, on the old ones replace the dist. cap,rotor button,spark plugs and plug wires and if older then a 1974 all of the above except you'll have points & condensor to replace.Actually a properly tuned engine runs better on heavy misty air(drizzel) Contrary to the anonymous answer above, things DO NOT expand as they colder. They contract as they get colder and expand when heated (we learned this in 8th grade). As to why it is harder to start, it could be one of many reasons. All I know is when it rains the humidity in the air is HIGH (hence the rain). If you have a carbuerated car, then you idle mixture is already set and this extra humidity in the air/fuel ratio is not accounted for and causes the setting to be less than optimal and thus causes poor combustion in the cylinders. If you have a newer car, i.e. one that has a computer controlling the car's ignition (mixture and idle rpm's, etc.), then there could a problem with a sensor because the computer is supposed to take the humidity and air temp (ambient air factors) into account. I think the next answer by Bunting of TO, is the right one. however. Your ignition system needs servicing. The high humidity has created a ground path for an electrical short to occur due to cracks in your distributor cap or plug wires. When these things are dry the path is not available. Spray windex on these components while the engine is running to test the theory. By doing the spray test in the dark, it will be even more evident where the cross spark problems are.
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