The stator is bad.. Or the pulser coil
I had this problem that was intermittant on my 1992 300E. after alot of searching, they discovered it was a crankcase sensor that was broken. does not show up on computer. it only happened when the engine was warm. the car would shut off after i had driven it 10 miles and would not restart till it cooled down. ANSWER 2 I think you will need to give LOT more information than this. Dead battery, corrosion built up on battery terminals, dead fuel pump, bad sensor, blown fuse, blown wiring, corroded wiring, bad distributor, bad spark plugs, out of gas, clogged fuel injectors, blown motor, dead cat caught in your belts, packrat taken up residence in your crank case, you ran it with no oil and it has seized up, I mean I could really go on and on. Please give specifics.
If you have already replaced the battery, then you have a few other things to look at.
I would start with the wires, making sure you have a good connection and then work your way to the starter. The clicking is usually a result of the starter not getting enough current to crank the engine.
the solenoid itself is probably bad, if not that probably the ignition switch I agree 100%, check the solenoid first then the switch.
Go back to the basics, look at fuel delivery, ignition and compression. If you have all 3 and everything is adjusted properly, the engine will start. Try spraying a little starting fluid into the air intake while someone is trying to start the engine. If the engine briefly catches while you're spraying starting fluid, the problem is fuel delivery.
The starter on the 2002 Saturn vue is located on the front underside of the engine, follow the positive(red) cable from the battery and it should connect to the solenoid which is part of the starter.
If your car uses VVT(Variable Valve Timing) or adjusts its ignition timing it could cause poor fuel economy, misfires, keep the car from starting. If the car is fuel injected the timing of the injectors is tied in with that too. In short nothing could, if the car manages to keep running it could lead to a blown motor depending on how you drive.
Try tuging on the steering wheel while trying to turn the key. Check the position of the front wheels, they can transmit tension back up the steering colum and lick the ignition switch.
Some cats can go on either way but some can't did you put it on the right way
No, the battery terminal should be able to handle as much electrical current as the vehicle should ever use, WITHOUT heating up. Clean or replace any battery terminal that is getting hot.
If its shaking side to side could be a tire out of balance or maybe a mechanical issue (wheel bearing, alignment, etc). Probably not a safety issue, but it can wear the tires out prematurely which can be expensive. Warped brake rotors are the most likely cause if the steering wheel only shakes when applying the brakes.
Park the car is a quiet location and turn the ignition key on but do not start the engine. Listen carefully for the sound of the fuel pump. It will run for a few seconds and then shut down which is normal. If you do not hear the pump, either the pump is bad, the fuse is blown, or the fuel pump relay is defective. You may also hear the pump and it can still be pumping with so low a pressure as to be defective. Make sure your problem is not a clogged fuel filter. Replace the filter asap. If the car has over 100,000 miles on the Odometer you probably need a new pump, especially if you have neglected to replace the fuel filter every 50,000 miles. A clogged fuel filter will burn a fuel pump up very quickly.
clean the battery terminals with baking soda and water. them jump it
Its at the front of the engine, low down just on driver side of centre of car. You have to be on the ground to see it.
That question will need much more detail before it can be answered. For an engine to run it needs fuel, air and spark. Without knowing which of these the engine has or does not have the question can't be answered.
If by nothing you mean it acks as though there is no battery in the car try this it worked on my (1990 DEVILLE ). Put the car in park ,Attach a remote starter switch to the starter,remove the air cleaner,turn the key to the on position, put approx one teaspoon of gas in the intake manifoil throat and try to start the engin using the remote starter. If the car starts the problem is somewhere in the pass key decoder circuit which includes the starter enable relay ,the fuel pump relay,key warning ,seat belt warning ETC. Your car has on onboard diagnostic computer which will give basic problem codes you can find out what the codes mean in a Haynes Repair Manual for your car. I repaired my car by bypassing the starter enable relay and the car works fine (but if the battery is disconnected for any reason I must charge the engine with a teaspoon of gas to restart the car GOOD LUCK a repair is $600+
Why CAN'T it be the battery? The radio uses far less electrical energy than does the starter. To KNOW that it's not the battery, use a volt meter and have someone attempt to start the engine while you hold the voltmeter contacts to the battery posts. If the voltage drops below about 10 VDC, it's probably a discharged or faulty battery.
Try jump starting it and see if that solves the problem.
If you can get the engine started, use the voltmeter again and see what the operating voltage is. You should get about 13.5 to 14.5 VDC if your alternator is functioning properly.
If you've isolated all other possibilities, it's probably the starter solenoid. It's integral to the starer so unless you've rebuilt starters in the past, don't bother getting a new one.
But before you just throw replacement parts at the problem, CHECK FIRST! Make sure that's what's really wrong.
If it does not turn over, but the lights work, you have a bad starter.
If your car is using to much oil, you'll need to find out if your oil is leaking or not. If the oil is leaking out and this is the cause of the lowering of the oil level, you may have a worn gasket or plug in your sump, sump gasket, engine head gasket ect. If your oil is not leaking, but being burnt by your engine, the most common cause is the rings on your pistons are worn. This will cause oil to get past the sealling surfaces of your piston rings and enter the combustion chamber where it is burnt along with the fuel. The tell tale sign for this is excess exhaust smoke. The smoke will also be a blue colour.
It could be fuel vaporisation if the engine gets hot and the fuel vapourizes out of the float chamber.To fix it direct cool air from the front of the car onto the carbs.hope this may have helped
not sure if it's the same on yours but on mine this is what i do. i leave the key in the ignition, i turn the ignition all the way back as far as it will go, tap on the key inwards and then try it again. on mine it's because my keys are worn down, yours might be the same, but it's worth a shot.
I assume that this is only for A very short time? I also assume that you are talking about A vehicle with only one belt (serpentine),, If this is correct: The likely cause is: The belt is worn out or lose, (or) the belt tensioner is bad.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, If this is not it, Please give more info.
it sounds to me like it could be your abs motor trying to pressurize. may be low on brake fluid. abs reservoir on my 94' accord is towards front of engine on driver side. there are 2 reservoirs-1 for master cylinder and 1 for abs.
You cant flood a fuel injected vehicle. It would be something else making it not start. It could be a bad fuel pump or spark plugs. Anything to do with the ignition. Distributorless pack, where all the wires plug into. Also hard starting problems are sometimes the result of an improper starting technique on the part of the driver. On a fuel injected engine, DO NOT push or pump the gas pedal when trying to start the engine. This just puts the engine into the Clear Flood mode, which will cut off fuel to the engine temporarily making it even harder to start. Just crank the engine without touching the gas pedal.
The crankshaft sensor on a Rover 200 is located below and to the right of the generator and cylinder head temperature sensor. It is on the driver's side of the engine and above the oil filter.