Firing order for the 4.0 liter OHV V6 is * 1-4-2-5-3-6 http://autorepair.about.com/od/enginefiringorders1/ Firing order for the 4.0 liter SOHV V6 is * 1-4-2-5-3-6 http://autorepair.about.com/od/enginefiringorders1/ Firing order for the 5.0 liter V8 is * 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 http://autorepair.about.com/od/enginefiringorders1/ When standing in the front of the vehicle the cylinders are numbered 1-3 up the passenger's side and 4-6 up the driver's side. When standing in the front of the vehicle the cylinders are numbered 1-4 up the passenger's side and 5-8 up the driver's side.
either take it to a tire shop and pay them to do it in about 15 minutes, or spend about 18 hours with two screw drivers trying to pry the tire off of the rim yourself
The leaks could start from anywhere due to wind blowing through the engine compartment while driving. Try to trace the source and identify whether it is oil (gold/brown color), or tranny fluid (usually dark red).
head gasket? that's the top end..oil pan is probably it..either the gasket is pinched, the bolt isn't tight..or one of your seals is bad
If its oil its either gold or black and like above probably the oil pan. Transmission fluid is generally red.
A very simplistic way to determine what the fluid is that is leaking, is to dab a small amount on the end of your finger and taste it. All four of the most common fluids (oil, tranny fluid, brake fluid, and antifreeze) have a very distinct taste and are completely different from each other.
that doesn't induce carcinogens:
Even easier way to identify fluid without ingesting it is to simply park over a piece of paper or cardboard. You can also use a white paper towel and dab it off the ground to get a decent idea what the fluid might be.
Head gaskets usually don't leak alot of oil, normally they start dumping antifreeze into the cylinders when failing. Valve covers (the part just above the head is the likely culprit there). Most higher mileage cars with oil leaks are typically the rear main seal on the crank that is failing. It is sometimes costly and others not so bad depending on the vehicles.ANSWER
LOOK AT THE COLOR OF THE OIL IF IT IS REDISH COLOR ITS TRANSMITION IF BLACK ITS FROM YOUR HEAD GASGET AND THE BEST THING TO USE WOULD BE ORGANIC SEALER UNTIL YOU HAVE ENOUGH TO COMPLETELY FIX THE PROPLEM
I have a 99 Dakota and when I changed the rear brakes there was noting special I had to do to them. just remember with any rear "drum" brakes. you need to make sure when you replace the shoes that you also replace the hardware (tension springs, hold down springs). If you go to any auto part store and ask them for the rear brake hardware kit they will know what you are talking about.
The maintenance light,You will need to take it to a Dodge dealer to reset it. Or get a DBR-2 code scanner.BIG $$$
It depends on the climate of your area. You can use SAE 5W-30 in any climate. But you can only use SAE 10W-30 in climates 0 degrees Fahrenheit or 18 degrees Celsius and up. If you can use 10W-30 use it. If you have to use 5W-30 because it's really cold where you live then do. But never use 5W-30 if you don't have to.
Another thing to know is that most modern vehicles have the fuel pump in the gas tank and the gas is what keeps the fuel pump cooled. When you let the tank go to almost empty the fuel pump is not kept cool and this will cause it to fail prematurely. Always, always fill the tank at 1/4. And get your gas from a name brand station. Never get the cheap stuff from an off brand station unless you will run out before you can get to another station and only get enough to get you a good quality station.AnswerYa 1/4 is safe. Let it go too empty and you might suck more of the dirt in the bottom of the tank through the lines , filter - could clog up the injectors in the fuel filter is too dirty. in the winter - better to have lots of gas, condensation from being hot and then cold - due to weather can actually dilute gas. ( this is probably only a consideration if your car is hard to start in the extreme cold AnswerThe last answer is correct, with an electric in-tank pump never let it go below 1/4 tank. AnswerIt used to be advised not to let the fuel get too low in the tank. This was because dirt could lay in the bottom of the fuel tank, this dirt could then be picked up and block fuel lines and jets. Fuel these days is so well filtered that this is no longer a problem so it makes no difference when you decide to add more fuel. AnswerIt depends on what you are trying to accomplish: 1- In the winter it is better to fill the tank ASAP to prevent moisture from potentially freezing the gas line and from running out of gas due to unexpected traffic or weather related issues.
2- If you are trying to save on the extra weight of gas then fill close to empty.
3- If you are mixing lo and hi octane gas then do it at 1/2 tank.
4- In the summer doing it 1/2 is better because the gas expands, but you could also get vapor lock. So do not fill it all the way if you want it not to over expand and spill or give extra pressure in the tank.Answerto add to the last answer another thing is that weither its a urben myth or not it is said that when your gas tank is above half you will get better mpg AnswerAnother thing to consider is that the fuel in the tank acts as the coolant for the fuel pump motor (if it's an in-tank pump). Leaving the tank mostly empty all the time can cause premature pump failure. Answer
Last answer is correct. Liquid fuel is the coolant for the pump. Driving with low fuel and taking a long curve (like on an expressway) will cause the fuel to slosh to one side and may cause pump overheating.
While every pound of weight you add to a vehicle does increase the load and therefore decrease the fuel efficiency, most vehicles are designed to operate at close to a full fuel tank. A lot of the design aspects especially the braking and suspension systems depend on calculations that include the fuel weight or what is called 'curb weight' - the weight of a vehicle with no cargo, a spare tire, and a full fuel tank.
Modern vehicles have evaporate emissions systems (EVAP) that make 'vapor lock' impossible when functioning correctly.
245 75 r16
My 2000 Dakota would not start unless i gave it gas until it was warm. And it was the IAT. So try giving it gas until it warms up and see if it will run
The engine computer is the voltage regulator. Located on the inner fender.
It kind of depends on what type of car/truck you have. Most fwd vehicles have the speed sensor in the transaxle above one of the axles. To change it usually requires removing a bolt and pulling out the sensor. Rwd vehicles either have the sensor in the transmission, transfer case(4x4) or in the rear differential. The replacement procedure is similar.
we tried using a offset screwdriver to fix it but it won't work it is so hard to get to, we got the grill off but the radiator is in the way, we tried putting a screwdriver up in the hole to pop it it won't budge. help please
An excellent step by step replacement procedure is given in the "Dodge Durango & Dakota Pickups" Haynes Repair Manual. Complete with pictures. (That is for 1998-1999.) I have replaced several and would advise using a factory replacement part. The reason I have replaced several, relates directly to using "rebuilt" pumps. Also, spend the money on the correct dealer replacement hoses. They are expensive but they fit, first time. You can often find these manuals at the half-price book store (cheap), if not the Public Library (for free).
Here is another opinion:
This question is not too involved to answer here. It just takes some explaining as with any repair by the home mechanic.
1. Remove the serpentine belt by rotating the main tensioner clockwise. You may want to leave it on to apply pressure when loosening the nut for the fan, however this does not always work.
2. 4 bolts retain the fan shroud. Simply loosen but do not remove all of the bolts until the fan nut is loose.
3. There are supposed to be four bolts on the water pump pulley to apply counter pressure with a 13mm wrench when loosening the fan nut (this nut has reverse threads so it's not righty tighty, lefty loosey.) At this point you might want to remove the idler pulley right above the water pump to make the following steps easier.
4. The manual says you need a special tool to loosen the fan nut. I couldn't buy it at the auto parts store because the water pump pulley both on the old one and new one did not have the 4 bolts but unthreaded holes instead. Dodge would not tell me what they do in this situation or sell any special tools to customers. Rude. So I used a strap wrench and wrapped it around the pulley and held tight while I unloosened the fan nut. Worked great.
5. Once the fan nut is loose, remove the bolts for the shroud and lift the fan and shroud out together.
6. There are three hoses (on the V8) that need to be removed from the water pump. You will need needle nose and other pliers to do this.
7. Mark the bolt at 12 o'clock on the pump for reference and start loosening them a little at a time clockwise laying them down in order as they are different lengths.
8. Remove the water pump and get ready to start scraping gasket. The upper part is difficult to see but be persistant. Who wants to see a leak after all this work.
9. The water pump has a coolant return hose that will need to be transfered to the new pump and a new o-ring replaced that is included.
10. Apply RTV high temp. silicone to the new water pump and the side of the gasket that faces the engine. Spread it thin. I had to break the habit of thinking more silicone=less chance of leaks.
11. Install the new pump and gasket and torque the bolts in 1/4 turn increments. Let the silicone cure as instructed on the package.
12. Start working your way back up this list, reversing the procedure, refill the coolant leaving the radiator cap off. Start the engine and turn on the heater. Add coolant mixture as necessary until full. Check for leaks and hope the new pump lasts a darn long time.
Here is more input:
On step 3 above, the writer says the big nut on the fan is reverse threaded. Mine wasn't and it cost me hours of sweat and frustration. I had to remove the radiator to get the whole thing out in one piece. From the front of the truck, like the answer just above, it's counter clockwise
Another removal option:
I had no welder or strap wrench. I applied WD-40 to the fan nut, and I used a breaker bar and hammer, tapping the nut firmly on each side. I disconnected all hose connections and all bolts. I leaned the pump and fan assembly gently onto the radiator, enough to expose the water turbine on the back side of the pump. Facing the front of the Durango, I used vise grips at the two o'clock position on the turbine. This locked the pulley/fan shaft against the A/C mounting bracket. The fan nut came loose easily. I then removed the fan and shroud, and then I removed the pump.
There is a metal pipe that extends at a 45 degree angle on the right side of your pump. This must be removed. My pump went out at 108k miles and this pipe stem was corroded into the pump. I scraped the rim with a razor blade and then applied WD-40. Do not use pliers or a pipe wrench! this pipe has very thin walls and will twist and cave in very easily. Instead I secured the pump on a table, and put my channel lock pliers behind the mounting wing that is attached to the pipe and gently hit the back side of my pliers. After lots of tapping I started to wiggle the pipe and working it in a circular motion. This freed it from the pump, and I was able to remove it by pulling and "unscrewing" it. This is not a threaded port, it is held in by an o-ring and pressure.
One More Removal Tip:
I own a 1999 Durango and just changed the water pump. The strap also didn't work but I found out a simple way to loosen the fan nut if you are throwing out the old pump. Drill a 1/4 inch hole from straight above into the water pump pulley. It is thin metal and takes less than a minute. Then stick a screwdriver into the hole to stop the pump from turning. Now you can loosen the fan nut easily. Mine loosened counter clockwise (right hand thread).
Tips for installation:
I applied the RTV on the pump side first, then laid the gasket onto it and waited a few minutes. This allowed the RTV to become more tacky and less slippery. I inserted the 3 mounting bolts into their rightful places into the pump. I threaded them two full turns into the gasket because the threads wanted to catch the gasket and pull it off the pump. Inserting the top bolts will hold the gasket in alignment and allow you to hang the pump into place without having to hold it there and try to tighten the bolts one by one.
I removed the top hose clamp completely off the top hose and used vise grips to open the clamp completely. I l looped the clamp and vise grips onto the top hose fitting of the new pump, leaving it clamped open. As I installed the pump, I had to push the pump up into the hose. Then, I hanged the pump on the mounting bolts as described above, fit the clamp onto the hose and released.
Check your belt for signs of wear and replace if necessary. In 2008 this belt runs 25.99-32.99.
[Edit] '87 through '91 'LA' V8 and V6 use a hall-effect cam position sensor in the distributor and have no crank sensor, '92 and up 'Magnum' use a crank sensor which will be mounted at the upper rear of the engine to 'read' the flexplate or flywheel through a slot in the bellhousing.[Edit] The part is called a "pick up coil" it's a round piece with a wire going into it you can access under the distributor cap and does essentially the same task as crankshaft position sensors. Only on the 'LA' 170hp V8.
The Price of used Dodge trucks varies by year,condition and where are are to purchase said truck.A Used Dodge truck from 2010 goes for an average of $24,999 this value decreased for every year and mile put on the truck.
I think its at the very bottom right hand corner of the radiator. It is a small plug looking jobber. Access is very very tight. Basically, lift the hood, take a flashlight and look along the drivers side of the radiator at the bottom. You'll find it right below a small nipple looking jobber.
That's pretty much where mine is on my '02, but I have a small & short hose that connects right above and below it. I disconnected both ends of the hose to gain access to the drain plug for the duration of the radiator drain without ill effect.
P1682 Charging System Voltage Too Low
Step vans (delivery trucks) and 15-passenger vans are large vehicles with limited visibility to the rear. These vehicles have the same performance and handling characteristics of pickup trucks, SUVs and light trucks. Seldom is there an interior mounted rearview mirror available for the driver to see to the rear of the vehicle. Avoid placing your vehicle at the rear or directly to the side of a van on the road. Increase space between your vehicle and a large van if possible. If you have to pass, ensure there is space in your lane to quickly overtake and reenter your lane.
Assuming the broken club is a driver, the area on the shaft just above the hosel impacts at a teed up ball rather than the club face. The stationary weight of a golf ball is sufficient to strain the tensile strength of a graphite shaft. With a club head attached at the very end of the club, it further increases the momentum of a downswing. This is mostly caused by addressing the ball too close to the body and an incorrect swing plane going back. For an iron, a breakage could be mainly caused by hitting the toe of the club into a relatively hard surface in the down swing. This usually happens to a graphite shafted game improvement iron. The reason being that game improvement irons have larger and wider club face area, in which when it is swung at a particular speed with only its toe part hitting the surface, the tensile strength of the shaft at the hosel is at its most vulnerable. This is mostly caused by the use of a non-custom fitted iron where certain compensations (maybe due to shaft length and body height not ideal) in a swing occur. Also may be caused by incorrect swing plane.
A bad throw out bearing will make noise when the clutch pedal is pushed down.
1-2-3-4-5-6, but the cap is not in that order.
If there is not enough room for dual exh. because of transmission cross member. Do as I did . Take out cross member weld thick piece of metal about 9" long where exh. will be then cut a notch in cross member for exhaust. IT works wonderful!
best bet, bet the oem number off of the carb that is on the vechile. Your local parts store should be able to locate the correct replacement with this number. The number should be on a metal tag on the carb, or stamped in the side of the carb.
Mike.C. Says; Make sure the carb is the one from the caravan engine, whenever you get any engine parts you'll want to use the model and year of the engine unless the engine is the exact same one that came out of the truck ie; 3.3 out 3.3 back in etc etc etc.... then its just a part for the 3.3 dodge Dakota... ....20+yrs Dodge do-it-yourselfer...
You need to remove the fan shroud.
Put a 3/8" socket wrench into the square hold in the auto tensioner (the arm with the pulley on the left side of the engine, as you are facing it.)
Rotate the arm with the wrench (counterclockwise, I believe) and slide the belt off. It helps to have another person help you. Before you do it, make a note of the routing of the belt so you know how to install the new one around the pulleys.
When you install the new belt, you have to string it around the fan. It takes a little practice, but eventually you will get it. Once you have it routed around all of the pulleys except one - go back to the tensioner and release the tension again - then slip the belt over the last pulley. (a second person helps.) It is easier if the last pulley you leave is the water pump pulley.Correction to aboveOn the 1999 Dakota with the 3.9liter, the fan shroud absolutely DOES NOT have to be removed. Very simple job. Simply use a breaker bar with a 15mm socket on the belt tesioner pulley nut. Using the breaker bar push (as though tightening) the pulley nut...the reaction will be that the tensioner removes tension from the pulley and the entire belt can be removed by easily slipping it toward the front of the vehicle...comes right off. The new belt can go back on in exactly the same manner. By the way the belt routing diagram IS CONVIENENTLY LOCATED between the hood latch and the radiator mounting for simple and quick refernce...one person job, I did removal and installation four times in less than 10 minutes. (why four times? The auto parts store was selling replacement belts that were too long and did not allow the belt tensioner to provide suffiecient tension...I had to try four different manufacturers before the tensioner was adequately tight with room to grow as the belt naturally stretches from use.). I found no stringing around the fan is required because of the way the belt is routed (it doglegs around the main engine pulley which is centered below the fanhousing and then the belt runs from there to the left side of the fan housing...avoiding the fan/fanhousing all-together (sure you can try to go past the fan/fan housing if you so desire...but you dont have to...and besides the space between the pulleys and the fan is ample to allow the belt to pass between with minimal interference or a simple rotation of the fan as you attempt this method. One hint that made my installs easy as pie...the last pulley you put it over should not be a bezeled and ridged pulley or you will needlessly make life difficult for yourself...the last pulley should be the water pump pulley which is a smooth bore and non-ridged pulley (makes you wonder how the belt even stays on it!)...making it easy as pie to slip it right over...as your last act of defiance to that mean old serpentine belt! Added TipOn my 97 Dak, the tensioner pulley has a little stop. If you don't use the breaker bar to push the pulley back to the left after you install the new belt, you won't get proper tension. This is definitely just a 15 minute job, even for a complete novice mechanic. My tire shop (I get free rotations) wanted to charge me $75 for the job. I just laughed in their face.
Throw something heavy in the bed of a truck, or trunk of a car. Just put enough in so your front bumper remains level or slightly above level with your back bumper. That way you have down force on your rear and retain steering control. This works well for trucks and rear wheel drive cars. I'm aware of that, but it has heavy duty supension, I addes 400 lbs, with good tires and it has posi=traction, still to light in the rear end, is there anything else to do.
Asked By Wiki User
Asked By Wiki User
Asked By Wiki User
Asked By Wiki User
Asked By Wiki User
Copyright © 2020 Multiply Media, LLC. All Rights Reserved. The material on this site can not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with prior written permission of Multiply.