The leaks could start from anywhere due to wind blowing through the engine compartment while driving. Try to trace the source and identify whether it is oil (gold/brown color), or tranny fluid (usually dark red).

head gasket? that's the top end..oil pan is probably it..either the gasket is pinched, the bolt isn't tight..or one of your seals is bad

If its oil its either gold or black and like above probably the oil pan. Transmission fluid is generally red.

A very simplistic way to determine what the fluid is that is leaking, is to dab a small amount on the end of your finger and taste it. All four of the most common fluids (oil, tranny fluid, brake fluid, and antifreeze) have a very distinct taste and are completely different from each other.

that doesn't induce carcinogens:

Even easier way to identify fluid without ingesting it is to simply park over a piece of paper or cardboard. You can also use a white paper towel and dab it off the ground to get a decent idea what the fluid might be.

Head gaskets usually don't leak alot of oil, normally they start dumping antifreeze into the cylinders when failing. Valve covers (the part just above the head is the likely culprit there). Most higher mileage cars with oil leaks are typically the rear main seal on the crank that is failing. It is sometimes costly and others not so bad depending on the vehicles.

LOOK AT THE COLOR OF THE OIL IF IT IS REDISH COLOR ITS TRANSMITION IF BLACK ITS FROM YOUR HEAD GASGET AND THE BEST THING TO USE WOULD BE ORGANIC SEALER UNTIL YOU HAVE ENOUGH TO COMPLETELY FIX THE PROPLEM

Another thing to know is that most modern vehicles have the fuel pump in the gas tank and the gas is what keeps the fuel pump cooled. When you let the tank go to almost empty the fuel pump is not kept cool and this will cause it to fail prematurely. Always, always fill the tank at 1/4. And get your gas from a name brand station. Never get the cheap stuff from an off brand station unless you will run out before you can get to another station and only get enough to get you a good quality station.

2- If you are trying to save on the extra weight of gas then fill close to empty.

3- If you are mixing lo and hi octane gas then do it at 1/2 tank.

4- In the summer doing it 1/2 is better because the gas expands, but you could also get vapor lock. So do not fill it all the way if you want it not to over expand and spill or give extra pressure in the tank.

Last answer is correct. Liquid fuel is the coolant for the pump. Driving with low fuel and taking a long curve (like on an expressway) will cause the fuel to slosh to one side and may cause pump overheating.

While every pound of weight you add to a vehicle does increase the load and therefore decrease the fuel efficiency, most vehicles are designed to operate at close to a full fuel tank. A lot of the design aspects especially the braking and suspension systems depend on calculations that include the fuel weight or what is called 'curb weight' - the weight of a vehicle with no cargo, a spare tire, and a full fuel tank.

Modern vehicles have evaporate emissions systems (EVAP) that make 'vapor lock' impossible when functioning correctly.

An excellent step by step replacement procedure is given in the "Dodge Durango & Dakota Pickups" Haynes Repair Manual. Complete with pictures. (That is for 1998-1999.) I have replaced several and would advise using a factory replacement part. The reason I have replaced several, relates directly to using "rebuilt" pumps. Also, spend the money on the correct dealer replacement hoses. They are expensive but they fit, first time. You can often find these manuals at the half-price book store (cheap), if not the Public Library (for free).

Here is another opinion:

This question is not too involved to answer here. It just takes some explaining as with any repair by the home mechanic.

1. Remove the serpentine belt by rotating the main tensioner clockwise. You may want to leave it on to apply pressure when loosening the nut for the fan, however this does not always work.

2. 4 bolts retain the fan shroud. Simply loosen but do not remove all of the bolts until the fan nut is loose.

3. There are supposed to be four bolts on the water pump pulley to apply counter pressure with a 13mm wrench when loosening the fan nut (this nut has reverse threads so it's not righty tighty, lefty loosey.) At this point you might want to remove the idler pulley right above the water pump to make the following steps easier.

4. The manual says you need a special tool to loosen the fan nut. I couldn't buy it at the auto parts store because the water pump pulley both on the old one and new one did not have the 4 bolts but unthreaded holes instead. Dodge would not tell me what they do in this situation or sell any special tools to customers. Rude. So I used a strap wrench and wrapped it around the pulley and held tight while I unloosened the fan nut. Worked great.

5. Once the fan nut is loose, remove the bolts for the shroud and lift the fan and shroud out together.

6. There are three hoses (on the V8) that need to be removed from the water pump. You will need needle nose and other pliers to do this.

7. Mark the bolt at 12 o'clock on the pump for reference and start loosening them a little at a time clockwise laying them down in order as they are different lengths.

8. Remove the water pump and get ready to start scraping gasket. The upper part is difficult to see but be persistant. Who wants to see a leak after all this work.

9. The water pump has a coolant return hose that will need to be transfered to the new pump and a new o-ring replaced that is included.

10. Apply RTV high temp. silicone to the new water pump and the side of the gasket that faces the engine. Spread it thin. I had to break the habit of thinking more silicone=less chance of leaks.

11. Install the new pump and gasket and torque the bolts in 1/4 turn increments. Let the silicone cure as instructed on the package.

12. Start working your way back up this list, reversing the procedure, refill the coolant leaving the radiator cap off. Start the engine and turn on the heater. Add coolant mixture as necessary until full. Check for leaks and hope the new pump lasts a darn long time.

Here is more input:

• I'm the owner of a 1999 durango. My water pump went out at 51,000 miles. You need to remove the: fan and shruod first,the fan comes off by leaving belt on and turning large nut with wrench counter-clockwise, then remove water pump bolts and install new one, reverse to put back on.

• The strap didnt work for me, so I made my own wrench. I used the bolt pattern on the new pump to make it, by welding 2 small studs on a piece of flat steel. Then welded a long handle on it. Instant wrench. Worked great.

On step 3 above, the writer says the big nut on the fan is reverse threaded. Mine wasn't and it cost me hours of sweat and frustration. I had to remove the radiator to get the whole thing out in one piece. From the front of the truck, like the answer just above, it's counter clockwise

Another removal option:

I had no welder or strap wrench. I applied WD-40 to the fan nut, and I used a breaker bar and hammer, tapping the nut firmly on each side. I disconnected all hose connections and all bolts. I leaned the pump and fan assembly gently onto the radiator, enough to expose the water turbine on the back side of the pump. Facing the front of the Durango, I used vise grips at the two o'clock position on the turbine. This locked the pulley/fan shaft against the A/C mounting bracket. The fan nut came loose easily. I then removed the fan and shroud, and then I removed the pump.

There is a metal pipe that extends at a 45 degree angle on the right side of your pump. This must be removed. My pump went out at 108k miles and this pipe stem was corroded into the pump. I scraped the rim with a razor blade and then applied WD-40. Do not use pliers or a pipe wrench! this pipe has very thin walls and will twist and cave in very easily. Instead I secured the pump on a table, and put my channel lock pliers behind the mounting wing that is attached to the pipe and gently hit the back side of my pliers. After lots of tapping I started to wiggle the pipe and working it in a circular motion. This freed it from the pump, and I was able to remove it by pulling and "unscrewing" it. This is not a threaded port, it is held in by an o-ring and pressure.

One More Removal Tip:

I own a 1999 Durango and just changed the water pump. The strap also didn't work but I found out a simple way to loosen the fan nut if you are throwing out the old pump. Drill a 1/4 inch hole from straight above into the water pump pulley. It is thin metal and takes less than a minute. Then stick a screwdriver into the hole to stop the pump from turning. Now you can loosen the fan nut easily. Mine loosened counter clockwise (right hand thread).

Tips for installation:

I applied the RTV on the pump side first, then laid the gasket onto it and waited a few minutes. This allowed the RTV to become more tacky and less slippery. I inserted the 3 mounting bolts into their rightful places into the pump. I threaded them two full turns into the gasket because the threads wanted to catch the gasket and pull it off the pump. Inserting the top bolts will hold the gasket in alignment and allow you to hang the pump into place without having to hold it there and try to tighten the bolts one by one.

I removed the top hose clamp completely off the top hose and used vise grips to open the clamp completely. I l looped the clamp and vise grips onto the top hose fitting of the new pump, leaving it clamped open. As I installed the pump, I had to push the pump up into the hose. Then, I hanged the pump on the mounting bolts as described above, fit the clamp onto the hose and released.

Check your belt for signs of wear and replace if necessary. In 2008 this belt runs 25.99-32.99.

[Edit] '87 through '91 'LA' V8 and V6 use a hall-effect cam position sensor in the distributor and have no crank sensor, '92 and up 'Magnum' use a crank sensor which will be mounted at the upper rear of the engine to 'read' the flexplate or flywheel through a slot in the bellhousing.[Edit] The part is called a "pick up coil" it's a round piece with a wire going into it you can access under the distributor cap and does essentially the same task as crankshaft position sensors. Only on the 'LA' 170hp V8.

You need to remove the fan shroud.

Put a 3/8" socket wrench into the square hold in the auto tensioner (the arm with the pulley on the left side of the engine, as you are facing it.)

Rotate the arm with the wrench (counterclockwise, I believe) and slide the belt off. It helps to have another person help you. Before you do it, make a note of the routing of the belt so you know how to install the new one around the pulleys.

When you install the new belt, you have to string it around the fan. It takes a little practice, but eventually you will get it. Once you have it routed around all of the pulleys except one - go back to the tensioner and release the tension again - then slip the belt over the last pulley. (a second person helps.) It is easier if the last pulley you leave is the water pump pulley.