A 2001 Kenworth semi-truck.
getting warmer yet....
Hesitation and poor performance can be commonly caused by a clogged air intake filter, intake manifold/vacuum leak, a clogged fuel filter, weak fuel pumps (notice that most Aerostars have two), or if it's a 3.0 liter Aerostar, it might have never had a tune-up, as especially the passenger's side spark plugs are nearly impossible to get at. If the hesitation occurs at certain speeds, it is the throttle position sensor, and is very simple to change out. start with the basics air filter, fuel pressure around 30-40lbs key on eng off, and spark, and retrieve the error codes for sensor problems; check for broken vacuum lines and wires, check ignition timing (10 degree BTDC), etc. The mass air sensor could also be the culprit. This was the case with my 93 4.0
it is the wire that runs between your starter and your silenoid. your silenoid is generaly located on the inside fenderwall of our engine compartment. it is about 3" tall, 2" in diameter, and has 2 large leads coming out either side with 2 smaller leads coming out between those. there should also be a red and a black wire attached to the large leads. generaly the red one runs to your starter. this is the wire you are looking for.
When using the correct size wire, there are several possible configurations of power connection, lighting outlet, and the two 3-way switches. Power can come from the panel to one switch or the other, or to the light, whichever is convenient. The light can be physically positioned between the switches or at the end of the two-switch series.
Each configuration requires different handling of the hot, switched travelers, and neutral wires. In every case, there are runs that require three parallel conductors, whether for neutral, hot or travelers, not including any grounding wires. A 3-wire cable is highly recommended for this application.
If there are more than two switch locations, a 4-way switch goes between the 3-way switches to crossover the two travelers. Two 3-conductor cables are used for this portion, including a bypass connection for the un-switched hot. Asking this question shows you are probably not quite ready to take on this particular task.
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Where the top radiator hose goes to the engine there is a two-bolt housing that the hose is connected to, that is where the thermostat is . After the engine is cool, drain enough coolant from the radiator so when removing the two housing bolts you don't lose a lot of of it. After removing the 2 housing bolts You should find your thermostat setting in the intake manifold for the 4.0 and just behind the housing in the 3.0 just give it a little twist and it should come out then.
A malfunction with the anti-lock brake system has been detected ( you still have
" normal " braking unless the red " brake " light comes on in your dash )
It could be a fuse , a sensor , or some other problem
ok here goes/to remove/rotate lock cylinder to lock position.if equipped with tilt steering remove upper extension shroud.remove ignition switch connector then drill out break off bolts connecting the switch with a 1/8 in drill bit remove the two screws from actuator pin. to install rotate key to run positioninstall switch by aligning holes on switch casting with holes in lock cylinder install break off bolts and tighten until heads shear off. have alot of patience.
The heater core is accessed by removing the bottom part of the heater box, which is above the passenger foot well and is attached by several small screws. On earlier models you will need to remove the lower dash panel and glove box--not certain of procedure on the later models. You also need a special tool to disconnect the hoses from inside the engine compartment, and you will likely have to get new hose latches and O-rings from a dealer. I recommend getting an aftermarket repair manual first, or look at your library for the Ford shop manual.
answer the firing order for a ford aerostar 3.0 is 1-4-2-5-3-6.distributor rotation is clockwise.from Robert rodriguez.AnswerFiring order is: 142536 and number 1 post should be marked on cap.
To keep thing cool / cold.
yes. also full size ford cars too. crown vics marquis and jeep Cherokee also.
What exactly seems to be the problem? Do you have a digital speedometer or analog speedometer?
the problem most encountered with a bad speedo is the gear in the transmission tail cone housing. make sure it isn't stripped the other problem could be the speedo itself. If it's analog then somewhere in there it is stripped out. If it's a logic type then usually the pulse board is gone.
The current manuals neither give a schematic or give the exact location of the fuse panel, but I think the owners manual that comes with the car will. Jcpsme
A freeze plug is in the engine block itself; they look like small round caps pressed into the block. Get a Chilton or Haynes repair manual from a parts store.
There are only a couple of freeze plugs you can get to without removing suspension components or pulling the engine entirely (btw, any engine overhaul should include replacing the freeze plugs -- they're only a dollar or two each, so take the time to do it if the engine is already out for any reason), but the key is to make sure you get the correct size and then tap it into place using either a plug tool (the preferred method, as it will make sure you have seated the plugs evenly and to the correct depth) or by placing a socket just smaller than the plug inside the lip of the plug and using a socket extension and hammer to tap it into place. Take your time and buy a couple of extra ones in case you damage the first one when installing it -- since you'll lose most of your coolant when you remove the old plug (have a bucket handy!), you'll be without a car until you complete this repair and add more coolant.
you have to open the dog house inside of the car right in front of the floor shifter.but don't forget to have the hood up as to let in some more light. and i strongly suggest bosch platnium plugs as they are already gapped and last longer than the cheapies which need changed more often.ie this is not a fun repair on these vans cause there is to little space for all the stuff in there.
There is a drain plug on the oil pan under your car. It is towards the front end, sometimes two thirds or three quarters of the way to the front. The oil pan holds the oil. It looks like a square metal cake dish connected to the bottom of the car. If you loosen that plug and pull it out, the oil will drain out. You need something to catch the oil in; you can get one at your automotive store, or use a foil cake pan from the grocery store; they fit neatly under the car, and you might need two. You should get everything ready first, then start to drain the oil. The oil is best warm if you want it all to come out. After you have drained the oil, replace the oil plug, and the washer that came off with it. You may have to replace the washer with a new one. While you are getting the washer from the auto parts store, you need a filter, ask the person in the parts department which filter, and the washer, and buy oil. 20W-50 is always good, but double check. Do all the buying ahead of time, before you start to work. It may take 20 minutes; maybe longer the first time. The filter goes on last. Look up into the engine from where you are draining the oil. It is a can of sorts, and has to be unscrewed. Oil will spill from the old filter so be careful. There is also a special tool for this, ask when you get the rest of the stuff at the auto store. When you screw in the filter, after you get the old one off, you are ready to add about four quarts of oil. Check your owners manual, or check your dipstick after about the third quart. So, go to your auto parts store, and buy oil, an oil filter, a new washer for the oil pan plug, a receptacle for the old oil if you want, and Have fun.
* Park the vehicle on a level surface. * Chock the rear wheels front and back. * Jack up the front of the vehicle, and place jackstands securly under a solid portion of frame or under the A-frame of the front suspension. * Lower the vehicle onto the jackstands. * Place an oil collection pan (at least one and half gallon capacity) under the oil pan drain plug of the vehicle (slightly forward center of the pan is best). * loosen the drain plug carefully, especially if the vehicle engine is warm. * drain all the old oil from the pan and prelace the plug. * Move the pain carefully to the front of the vehicle under the engine compartment. * Locate the oil filter, and place the collection pan beneath it. * loosen the oil filter and remove it, tipping it upside down to keep the old oil inside. * Replace the old filter with a new one --DO NOT CROSSTHREAD THE NEW OIL FILTER-- MAKE CERTAIN you apply a small amount of new oil to the rubber gasket and threads of the oil filter before you install it. * Check the maintenance section of your vehicle handbook for the proper oil capacity of your vehicle. DO NOT OVERFILL THE OIL. IF YOU EXCEED THE CAPACITY OF YOUR VEHICLE, IT COULD CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE ENGINE SEALS. * Add the recommended oil in the recommended amount by the oil fill spout on the top of the engine. * Rejack the vehicle off the jackstands, and lower the vehicle. * Start the vehicle for a moment and check for leaks from the drain plug and oil filter (about one in 60,000 oil filters will be faulty--it is rare but occassionally they leak even when installed correctly.) * Turn off the vehicle and double check the oil level. Add small amounts if the level is low on the dipstick. The first time you change your own oil it could take you an hour or more. The more often you do change your own oil, the more familiar you will become with the process and your vehicle, and the faster you will be able to perform this maintenance.
Don't know the coolant capacity for your specific model year. I have a 1990 Grand Voyager 3.3L. The coolant capacity as specified in my owner manual is 8.5 qts. The Hanes manual lists the coolant capacity for this 1999 3.3 liter engine as 10.5 quarts. Incredibly the owners manual does not list the coolant capacity. Shame on you Chrysler company.
Bad horn button.
Bad horn relay.
Bad connections at any of these points, bad wiring between any of these points, or a bad ground.
Its up behind the bumper (on the raditor core support) on the driver side
R-134. All cars/trucks 1994 and after use R-134. 1993 and before use R-12.
Could be the mechanic set the throttle control too high, so your car idles at a higher RPM than it used to. Timing was set wrong. your car should be better after a tune, perhaps the tuner made a mistake or did not do the tune correctly
If you are asking how to remove the dashboard trim, remove the ash tray to access two screws holding the panel in. After removing these two, the panel just snaps in.
If you are asking how to remove the radio itself, Ford uses a snap-in mount to speed up assembly. The only way to remove it is with the proper tools. These resemble two 'U'-shaped pieces of heavy gauge wire with a mitred notch cut into each end. The spacing of the 'U' bend matches the small holes in near the corners of the radio face plate. Two of these tools, one on each side, are inserted these holes deeply enough that they snap in place. Then apply sideways pressure on each side toward the center on the radio to release the spring catches and simultaneously pull outward on the 'U' shaped tools. The radio will slide right out.
To reinstall, remove the tools and just slide the radio back in until it snaps into place.
These tools are often supplied with aftermarket stereos or would be available anywhere that installs car stereos or at your Ford dealer. It you already had the dash panel removed, you could probably borrow a pair for a few seconds or hire them to pop it out for you. Good luck!
No but sometimes it makes it easier
The serpentine belt is easily removed without removing the fan shroud This has to be accomplished by using a tensioner wrench
It's behind the serpentine belt tensioner next to the alternator if it is a 4.0 It is located at the end of the upper radiator hose where the thermostat housing bolts to the intake manifold. (V6 3.0L)
When the heater core rusted out in my vc commodore, it leaked coolant into the passenger side of the car.
When my EB Falcon stopped blowing hot air, it was the thermostat on the motor.
You can guess which was cheaper to repair :)
Take the thermostat housing off and just see if it is all rusted and rotted underneath (as mine was) or take it to a mechanic to check.
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