The code is for the turbine speed sensor. The part is in the middle of the transmission. You would need to remove the trans and take it a bit more than half way apart. This being the case, make darn sure the sensor is the problem. The sensor itself was a very durable part. The failure rate is very low. I do not know all the symptoms that go with the code. If the van will not move the most probable cause is the input shaft seized in the center support. This will cause the code. If the van moves but sets this code I would check wiring from outside of trans back to the computer. Hope this is helpful......
Chevrolet Firing Order 18436572
Okay, I will try to exlpain the best I can. I did this last year on my 1990 Legacy. Okay If you want one key make sure you get the new cylinder keyed at a locksmith to the ignition key. Use your best key to do this. okay her it goes. First open the door. Second remove all screws out of the inside door cover. I think there are three, one of them is in the handle and has a foam thingy in the hole so just pop the foam out and used a long screwdriver. Now that you have all the screws out you need to pop the plastic grommet things out of place, to do this just pry the door at the bottom and continue around until you pop all out. Now then door should be loose but remember you have a elitric window cable still attached to the door. so reach up and unclick the cable so its loose. Now put inside door cover inside or on the backseat so it does not get scratched up. Okay now there is a weather protecter clear plastic thing covering the inside of the door. remove this only on the left side of the door and just roll it back a little. This thing is really good because it keeps your car dry. Okay now you need to remove the door handle. so first remove the to long rod things that hook into the door handle. This can be removed at the door or the handle. The door is probably best because its a pain to put back together. Remove these rods by pulling the plastic conector directly back and it should unclick. Now move the rods out of the way. Unscrew the door handle from the inside, there are two screws or bolts that hold the handle in place. Now pull the handle out from the outside part of the door. It will come with a little manipulation watch the paint though. Okay now that you have the handle out look at the back of it. There is a small wire clip holding the cylinder lock in place. remove the clip and the cylinder should slide out. now slide the new cylinder which you should have already keyed to the original key into the hole. place the wire clip back in place and nopw you have a new door lock cylinder in the handle. Now you can put it back in using the reverse of what you just did. Have fun. Oh yea dont forget to clip the window cable back when you put your door back together. Peace out!!1 and next time don't buy a pre 1995 Subaru cause they fall apart.
A malfunction with the anti-lock brake system has been detected ( you still have
" normal " braking unless the red " brake " light comes on in your dash )
It could be a fuse , a sensor , or some other problem
ok here goes/to remove/rotate lock cylinder to lock position.if equipped with tilt steering remove upper extension shroud.remove ignition switch connector then drill out break off bolts connecting the switch with a 1/8 in drill bit remove the two screws from actuator pin. to install rotate key to run positioninstall switch by aligning holes on switch casting with holes in lock cylinder install break off bolts and tighten until heads shear off. have alot of patience.
What exactly seems to be the problem? Do you have a digital speedometer or analog speedometer?
the problem most encountered with a bad speedo is the gear in the transmission tail cone housing. make sure it isn't stripped the other problem could be the speedo itself. If it's analog then somewhere in there it is stripped out. If it's a logic type then usually the pulse board is gone.
A freeze plug is in the engine block itself; they look like small round caps pressed into the block. Get a Chilton or Haynes repair manual from a parts store.
There are only a couple of freeze plugs you can get to without removing suspension components or pulling the engine entirely (btw, any engine overhaul should include replacing the freeze plugs -- they're only a dollar or two each, so take the time to do it if the engine is already out for any reason), but the key is to make sure you get the correct size and then tap it into place using either a plug tool (the preferred method, as it will make sure you have seated the plugs evenly and to the correct depth) or by placing a socket just smaller than the plug inside the lip of the plug and using a socket extension and hammer to tap it into place. Take your time and buy a couple of extra ones in case you damage the first one when installing it -- since you'll lose most of your coolant when you remove the old plug (have a bucket handy!), you'll be without a car until you complete this repair and add more coolant.
Under the van by the left/front tire attached to the inner frame.
First you pop the bottom of the door panel out. The next step is to take the three speaker bolts out ( 10 millimeters) After you remove the two nuts and one bolt holding the check in place you slide the door check inside the door and take it out through the speaker hole. Reverse procedure for installation.
Mine is stuck too. I've tried everything imaginable and even asked another owner to show me his door when open so I could try to figure something out. Did you know that there is only one latch and that it is on the backe nd of the door, not the front?
Hi, but how now type of fuse for one specific number example fuse number 3 is for radio, fuse number 5 for lights, etc, please help me, tanks
you could have a cracked distributor cap Check condition of ignition system including distributor cap, rotor and ignition cables. (You didn’t mention engine size because Colt did have a 1.6L “distributorless” engine….it had an ignition block which could crack causing voltage leakage, especially when moisture is about. It is a block where all the ignition cables meet.) If cap, rotor or cables look suspect, change them. With the cables, buy a tube of dielectric grease and use at both ends of the cables to connect to the cap and the spark plugs. Even if the cables look relatively new and you are reluctant to change them, minimally, buy the grease and grease the ends. It helps keep the moisture out and the voltage “in”.
I'm pretty sure that 16 hours is ridiculous. My pump went out on my way home from a vacation, I had to stay in a hotel, and do the repair in the parking lot of the autozone the next morning, and even then it only took me like 4 hours to do start to finish. The O- ring isn't that big of a deal, its pretty simple, all you need is some good sealer, just put it together like it looks on the truck. My haynes manual was very helpful, the tools you need are,
socket set, channel locks(AKA, the huge slipjoint plyers,) the fan comes off very predictably if you use the tools that auto zone has in their loaner program, its a 5 piece set, you'll need your big socket wrench for that too. and a good pair of regular plyers.
p.s. the only really hard part is putting on the hose that goes from the engine to the pump, because the clamp is up under the back of the pump, but autozone has some special 90 degree needle nose plyers that make that really easy too. Its not that hard, just make sure you get the gasket seated right and buy some sealant cause you'll need that too. Should take like 6 hours at the MOST>>>
I've done it and it's the most major repair I've done on my own. Took me close to 16 hours... most of which was getting the fan off. There is not enough room for a conventional wrench and the special wrench you can get from Autozone (loaner) does not work very well with Dak's. Getting the heater hose reattached is also a major pain because there is a little rubber O-ring that has to seat perfectly or else it will leak. The Hayne's manual details the procedure pretty well. I would say that you should only attempt it if you can't afford it and/or you consider yourself capable of doing moderately advanced repair work (i.e. anything short of rebuilding an engine).
i started to do it on mine but gave up after looking at it. it cost me $300 out the door to just have it done.
Don't expect great gas mileage with either engine: around 15 mpg in city/suburban driving, or low 20s on the highway.
1994 ford aerostar starter removal . raise vehicle/disconnect battery cables/ starter is on driver side remove wires from starter/ remove bolts holding starter to bellhousing.installation is reverse of removal piece of cake.from Robert rodriguez.
You may need to remove the exhaust "Y" pipe to replace the starter, also. On AWD models this is mandatory. I recommend that you soak the bolts in Liquit Wrench before trying to loosen them.
Check the fuses first!
Make sure the car is OFF.
Open your hood and look on the passenger side firewall between the inner fender and the heater blower motor. You will see a black rectangular device with a grey connector on it. Unplug the connector, and remove the two self-tapping screws that hold this rectangle in.
The device that you just removed is known as a 'resistor block'. Look at it carefully, and you will probably notice that one or more of the coiled wires have separated from the terminals. This indicates a failed block.
You can get a replacement from several sources (Dealer, NAPA, or junkyard).
Installation is the reverse of removal.
That's all there is to it, under 5 minutes from start to finish!
This should work for any car.
With the car off, have a friend push the gas while you look at the engine, on the top you will see something moving. This is the throttle. Rock this with your hand. As you let it fall back into its normal position, notice what it is resting on, this will be the idle screw, screw it in to up the idle, out to take it down.
hope it helps
The modulator is held into the transmission with a stamped metal "fork" that is bolted into the transmission. Remove the bolt, remove the vaccum hose and wiggle/turn the modulator to extract it. Be careful during the removal because there is a short pin in the modulator that has to be replaced when you put the new one in.
This situation is referred to as "diesling." Usually occurs when the engine is hot and the carb needs adjusted.AnswerGuess what Keith, there are no carbs on a 1998 prelude, they,ve been fuel injected for a while now,SONNY,. Look dude your best bet is its something with the ignition, or the brain(computer) of the car. Keith doesn't know what he is talking about. GOOD LUCK Answerit is the ingition swicth is bad causes a short. Pontiac transport have the exact problem. I have only seen 1990 transport so far. about ten i have done.
There are two methods: 1) Jiffy Lube and other quick lube shops use a transmission fluid exchange machine. It is done while the engine is running in order to exchange old fluid from the torque converter. The filter and gasket are not changed in this procedure. Cost - about $90 2) You can drop the pan and let the fluid drain. This method allows changing the filter but there is a small amount of used fluid left in the torque converter. Cost - around $20
I recently purchased a stereo from Best Buy and they estimated the installation cost but they overlooked thre fact that the '93 Aerostar uses only one hot speaker wire and chasis ground. It took three trips to get it right. They added a device that was supposed to interface this but it wouldn't work. They ended up completely re-wiring the front and rear speakers with dual wire all the way back to the stereo. It incolved removing a lot of panels to reroute all of the wires. If your stereo will not operate on using a common ground for all of the speakers then you will have to do this.
When you open the hood and are standing in front of the Rav4 the alternator is on the left hand front side of the engine. You will see a large pulley with the alternator belt on it to the left of the alternator.
Undo the 2 bolts on the bottom of the starter. The starter will drop down, let it rest on the break lines, undo the two starters wires, (the selenoid and the power), 2 connections 3 wires total, grab the starter from the break lines, bring it out and around and it's all yours.
I too also have a Goldwing,and I was having that same problem. Believe it or not I used my car oil dip stick,to check my oil...it gave some indication how much oil was in there
I have a 1980 Honda GL1100i "Interstate".
The motor oil level is checked through a sight window in the right side of the case, a little bit forward of the rear brake pedal.
There are two lines molded into the case beside the sight glass. These are your upper and lower level indicators. You want your level to be about midway between those marks.
If you cannot see the oil level, you might have some oil "schmutz" on the inside of the window. You can clean this by turning the little screw in the middle of the sight glass, which turns a set of miniature wipers on the glass, cleaning it off. try putting the bike on the centerstand, starting the engine, let it idle. now look at the siteglass window for your oil level. should be halfway up the window with 3.7qts of oil.
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