The International Morse group for the letter 'p' is: . _ _ . On the radio, it's supposed to sound like "dih DAH DAH dit" .
It is exactly 3 liters (sorry, just kidding). If you mean how much is it in gallons or something else, it is: 101.4 ounces or 0.79 gallons.
You add the transmission fluid using the same tube that the transmission dip stick is in, use a long flexable funnel, and do not over fill.
There is no such thing as a starter ignition fuse, but if you suspect you have a blown fuse somewhere, ther are only two fuse panels that contain all the vehicle's fuses. A fuse panel under the hood on the driver's side, and a fuse panel under the dash on the driver's side. There are no hidden fuses on that vehicle. All your fuses are easy get to right there in those two fuse blocks.
Most likely, yes. If there was a heat shield, and your debating either removing it or not replacing it... please DO replace it.
For that to be done safely, I would call a contractor.Answer 2
there is no way to do this without cutting hole behind tub, if no hole could be cut then you would have to come in from the front. I would not do this if i had to come in from front unless you where ready to retile.Answer 3
In the past, I have seen ads in home improvement magazines which showed a hose type shower extention which used a rubber coupling which slipped over the bathtub spiggot, and which then clipped into a bracket which mounted to the wall ABOVE the tile line. I also saw ads for a similar device, except that it was a REPLACEMENT spiggot with the hose permanently attached to its side. With this one, you would remove the old spiggot by simply unscrewing it and installing the new one without having to damage any tile or wall. It has been a long time since I last read a home improvement mag, so I don't know if the products I've described are still available.j3h.
There is a website that sells shower valves which cover your old plumbing and keep you from having to tear out a bunch of tile. Some minimal tile removal may be necessary but the shower fixtures will cover it. You can find them at www.versi-shower.com.
It can be a bad sending unit or it can be low oil pressure. Start by replacing the filter with a Motorcraft filter if you have a Ford or Purolator if you have a Dodge, and making sure you are using the recommended weight of oil. If the problem still exists then replace the sending unit.
What I did when the thin metal bands of my heat shields on my exhaust
broke is replace them with stainless steel worm and gear clamps
( so far I have replaced 5 of 6 clamps on my 1995 Ford EXPLORER exhaust )
You did not state the year, but assuming 96 or 97, there is a photograph available at this link: http://autocenter.weber.edu/OBD-CH/documents/newdocuments/ford/aerostar1996.jpg
Although not impossible, the steering column must be dropped to replace the gear shift tube. In my case, a torx bolt fell off at the base of my gear tube and caused the gear shift to miss reverse, neutral, and drive. Four nuts with washers, two and two, hold the majority of the weight of the steering column. To get to the steering column, the upper and lower shroud behind the steering wheel will need to be removed, as well as the lower cover piece underneath the steering wheel, followed by the metal plate. The small support behind the metal plate will have to be removed to allow for the steering column to drop to a level to work on the shifter tube. Note: Aside from the battery, I did not disconnect any electrical connections. Be very careful not to cause the weight of the steering column to dislodge or damage the many electrical connections underneath the column. If the problem cannot be identified or remedied at this point, then the airbag, the steering wheel, and the gear shift may need to be removed to fix it. Note: the metal clamps holding the gear tube in place are very brittle. Make sure they line up and are not overtorqued, or risk breakage. I broke two of them because of an issue with the alignment of the gear tube and the actual gear shift mechanism that moves the gears around. Through a simple Internet search, you can purchase the gear tube ($30.00) and the gear tube clamps ($7.00 per clamp).
Depends on which part of the braking system you are talking about.
Unbolt the calipers and hang them up.
Remove old pads,
Clean the caliper bracket, Install the new caliper hardware,
Install new pads,
Loosen master cylinder cap, Push the caliper pistons back flush,
Tighten master cylinder cap,
Pump up the brake with the brake pedal.
Lots of components in a braking system, that is just the pads,, some still have shoes on the rear which is a series of clips and springs and varies from car to car.
Then you have,
Automatic braking systems,
Electric & Hydraulic Calipers and Wheel cylinders,
Pads & Rotors,
Emergency cables & Motor's,
Pretty easy for average mech. first drain coolant by loosening the lower radiator hose. make sure to have a drain pan. remove the power steering belt by removing the bolts to the idler pulley. and let belt off the pulley.remove the alternator upper bracket. and remove belt. take fan shroud off with two 8mm bolts on top oe it. you cant remove until you remove the clutch fan assy. it is left handed thread. it has to be removed together. remove the four bolts to the pulley on front of water pump. and then remove all 14mm bolts around the pump. then remove 8mm bolts and it will be able to come off. assemble in reverse order!
A while ago I ordered a transmission to replace the dying (later dead) one in my 1989 B250 van. I ordered the 727 assuming a big rig like that with a 318 would have the beefier transmission. My mistake, we had a van with a 904. The 727 is 4 inches longer than the 904, has a different size torque converter, and a different sized rear spline. a few bits of linkage is different. Now we have to go out and find a shorter drive shaft that properly connects to our new 727 and a new flex plate that fits the 727's torque converter size. We will probably have to modify some linkage as well.
So I'd make sure to get the right transmission if you want an easy swap.
Passanger side of engine, near the A/C compressor. Access from under the car.
The most common cause of this problem is this: The handle that you pull on to move the seat usually has a couple of small wires attached to it that go to the "Locks" on the rails under your seat. One or both of these may be broken. The other not so common cause is that the rails under your seat have become bent or rusted from moisture. The only real fix for this is to pull out your seat and replace it, or on some seats you can pull off the whole sliding assembly from your existing seat, and get a new seat from a scrap yard out of the same model and year vehicle and pull the slider assembly off of it, and re-attach it to your seat.
Go get it checked on the dyno to see if you are running rich,which u probably are. Minor carb adjusting should take care of that. You more than probably got a leak and she's sucking air in at the flanges. They got some stainless stel sponge gaskets now that do a pretty good job. You're gonna have a little raw gas in your pipes pretty much no matter what you do but if you're running rich, yeah you need to look at it. Try that S&S shorty. Those go good on Shovels. Looks cool, huh?
I just bought one and turns out it has the same problem. It could possibly be 3 things, 1. The cooling fan relay in the fuse box 2. The cooling fan switch located on back right side of engine block, right where the radiator hose is attached to the engine. 3. The fan motor itself. I just found out mine is the motor and i'd like to know is it replaceable by someone who is not a mechanic and doing it at home?