Total passengers in a Ford Expedition will vary depending on year and model. Depending on this, cloth seating models may hold up to nine people. In MOST CASES, the vehicle can seat 8, however the three in the third row should be under 5'6" for any comfort whatsoever. Leather models only offer 4-7 seats w/ seatbelts.
in the cylinder head.... LOL Just kidding a bit... The engines use what is called COP type ignition, or Coil On Plug. That means it does not have a distributor and plug wires like you are probably used to... each cylinder has its own ignition coil. If you can look at the injectors, you will see something about 1.5 inches around with a small bolt holding it in place, and a small wiring harness attached to it. These are the coils. The bolt has a 7 or 8 mm head on it. Remove the bolt and wire plug, and the coil will pull up and off of the spark plug. Depending on which cylinder you look at, it will be difficult to actually see the spark plug, but trust me it is down there about 4 inches deep into the head. They have a 5/8 head, and you will need about 1 3 inch extension for your ratchet to remove the plug. Be sure that your spark plug socket has the little rubber insert in there to. If you are going to replace them, a little tip for you.... lube the ceramic boot of the plug with dilectric grease before you insert it into the spark plug socket. This will keep the rubber piece from stickin to the plug after you install it. Also DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE PLUG !!!!! You will F!#$% up your head and the repair is VERY expensive to fix. You can actually rip the threads right out of the head if you over tighten them. It is a bit of a pain to get all of them, but not too bad. I would plan a good 3 or 4 hours the first time you do it. On the passenger side, the back two are tough, but if you take off the brackets where the battery wires connect to (4 - 8mm bolts) and slide the two harneses off of the brackets, you can do it. Just push the heater hoses out of the way
According to the Owners Manuals:
1996 Windstar 3.0 & 3.8: 4.5 quarts - 5w30*
1997 Windstar 3.0 & 3.8: 4.5 quarts - 5w30*
1998 Windstar 3.0 & 3.8: 4.5 quarts - 5w30*
1999 Windstar 3.0 engine: 4.5 quarts
3.8 engine: 5.0 quarts
2000 Windstar 3.8: 5.0 quarts - 5w30*
2001 Windstar 3.8: 5.75 quarts - 5w20
2002 Windstar 3.8: 5.0 quarts - 5w20
2003 Windstar 3.8: 5.0 quarts - 5w20 (synthetic blend)*Note: Ford issued a TSB (technical service bulletin TSB 02-1-9) regarding the 5w20 superseding 5w30 Owners Manual specifications.Applies to all Windstars back to 1995.
See "Related Links" or search on FORD TSB 02-1-9 for more details.
NOTE: It is always best to refer to the Owners Manual that came with the vehicle to ensure the information is correct to that specific car.Answernormally 5W-30 10W-30 is also acceptable if you live in a very hot climate area. AnswerAny Oil that you like... Personally I like Valvoline... they do make a Valvoline Max Life Oil that is made for vehicles with 75000 miles or more on it... don't use Quakerstate... I've heard some big stories coming from mechanics about that oil... one mechanic removed the valve cover to check something with the rocker arms, and he had to use a screw driver and hammer to chip at that oil and he actually lifed it off the head... so Valvoline is probably the very best oil for any vehicle.
Motorcraft 5w20, synthetic blend.
Good news is this is a very affordable product, and I don't hesitate to let it run the entire 5,000 mile change schedule.
Check the Owners Manual for more detail...
See "Related Links" or search on FORD TSB 02-1-9 for more details.
FORD TSB 02-1-9 5w20 Oil Recommend - PDF file*http://fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/supplier/tsb/0219.pdf
5w20 semi-synthetic motor oil is what the owners manual calls for.
The transmission takes Mercon V It would depend on which size motor and oil pan it has. With the standard 6 cylinder engine, with the standard factory oil pan which is the most likely unless modifications has been done. The oil capacity should be 4.5 quarts without filter change. Last I changed the oil in my windstar with oil filter change it took 5.0 quarts of oil.
Start with 4.5 quarts if you change the oil filter also. And then check oil. If the level is below the full mark, add another half quart of oil to the engine oil.
my 2002 holds 5 qts. with a oil filter
5 w 30 ( according to the owners manual )
5.75 quarts of 5w20.
( 5 w 30 ) according to the owners manual
The oil capacity is approximaly 5.4 quarts of oil. Install 5 quarts and check level on dipstick.Answerthe 3.0L uses 4.5 qts. while the 3.8 uses 5 qts AnswerMy owners manual says for the 3.8l engine, it is 5.75, including filter. My experience agrees with the extra .75 quart! :)
The 2003 Ford Windstar owners manual shows ( 5 quarts with filter change )
of engine oil for your 3.8 liter - V6 engine
( 5 w 30 ) is the preferred oil according to the Owner Guide
Exhaust system. they look like a muffler.
Depends on what year you have. 1996-2001 are exact match with the Ford F150/250 under 8500 GVW. 2001 thru 2003 are unique to that vehicle. Post 2003 they changed again to a spin-form design and that design is good thru 2008. All have R/H - L/H cats. They bolt to the manifold and are married together at the R/H crossover pipe. I think the 2001 and later use a Torca clamp vs a U clamp so the crossover pipe connection is not ruined. 2001 and later have a 900 cell per inch catalyst light off can (#1) and can plug if you backfire with rich condition. Any oil additive like STP containing Zinc can plug your cat too. Stay away from all oil additives and spend the money on a quality synthetic or semi synthetic oil. Look up your model at Tasca auto parts.com. They have a wonderful database with many "view illustration"option. They have the best prices for OEM parts and a great staff that will answer your questions via e-mail or on the phone. Good luck. One last thing...do not try to run your vehicle without the cats. It will turn into one big mess and put your vehicle in "survival mode" You will be lucky to get 7 mpg.
2 wheel drive with standard suspension ( 26 U.S. gallons / 98.6 liters )
2 wheel drive and 4 wheel drive with rear air suspension ( 30 U.S. gallons / 113.6 liters )
My 1998 Expedition Eddie Bauer 2WD with a 5.4L gets 13.5 mpg in town and approximately 16 highway (@70mph - w/ AC running)
And yes, your mileage may vary. ;)
I believe it is on the top of the passenger side valve cover.I had a 1991 240SX and I believe that is where it is located.If not then check the drivers side valve cover.It would most likely be silver at the bottom and black plastic at the top with a hose going to it. ..AnswerI had the same problem. It is very hard to reach. It is under the intake manifold. It only looks like a nut with two hoses connected to it. I have not replaced it since it is hard to reach.
5 w 20 - according to the owners manual
Are you saying that the gear shifter will not move from park to drive or that when you shift to drive the vehicle will not move? We need more info.
2 wheel drive , standard suspension , 26 U.S. gallons / 98 liters
2 wheel drive , air suspension , 30 U.S. gallons / 114 liters
4x4 , 30 U.S. gallons /114 liters
no it is not, as the 5.4L Triton engine, which is 5408 cc, converts to 330 cubic inches.
Giving someone a leg up is like giving someone a hand up. It means to help someone out and give them the advantage.
Because of the dual zone a/c-heating system, instead of using rubber ford chose to use steal or aluminum tubing from the front to the back.
More than likely the tubes have made contact with metal and with normal driving conditions have rubbed a hole in the tube. maybe just a leaky connection to the heating core or worse a heating core with a hole in it.
Plus i don't know if it is true or not but using two different kinds of antifreeze can compromise the entire cooling system (heating system too).
Can be several things: * rust on the pistons preventing them from retracting * rust on sliding pins locking the halves of the caliper together * an internally damaged brake hose acting like a one-way valve and not releasing pressure
For the 5.4 L in a Ford F-150 :
WITH ENGINE OIL FILTER CHANGE
1997 to 2003 - ( 6 quarts )
2004 and newer with the 5.4 L - 3 valve per cylinder heads - ( 7 quarts )
as far back on the back of the engine that you could see and reach. It is bolted on towards you so it will not look like the pictures. look just behind the the throttle body in the center back of the engine. it will have a plug coming out of it towards the driverside of the car (is this to fix a stalling problem? if so keep reading)
I have finally fixed my stalling problem in my 2003 ford expedition and wanted to share the repair with you, first of all for the safety of our families, and the cost of everything the mechanics think is wrong (even most ford mechanics are not aware of this fix) I have been lucky and never did the coil packs, fuel pump and new throttle body and valve. I did waste money on the camshaft sensor and IAC control valve; I did keep the old one so I have a back up if I need it in the future. I didn't try the high octane fuel fix because I heard of this year throwing spark plugs which are big bucks to repair. Putting on this part and looking at the old one makes me think I didn't even need a new one, but didn't know what to expect when I bought it. The bracket connects the alternator to the positive terminal on your battery. If you start at the battery + terminal it has 2 red wires coming out of it. They are both usually red and about the same thickness. One of them goes into a long black rectangle clip that says "fusable Link" or something like that. Then comes out the other side and goes to the alternator. Past the fusable link box there will be 2 wires that split off of this wire. If you are in front of the truck one wire runs towards you and is pretty short. It plugs into another wire. The second wire is longer and it runs away from you THIS IS the wire you need to follow. It runs back towards the battery into a plug under it. Follow this wire from where it comes off of the big wire. You will find it resting on a silver/aluminum tube (its an AC pipe) Flip the wire over where it is touching this pipe, you will find the wire is rubbed down to the bare metal!!! It is randomly shorting out your engine and you will STALL. If I didn't by the part I would try to tape it up, tape the pipe it rests on as well or get some foam tubing for the pipe, if the wires are too worn, looks like you could always use a wire nut.
Your Are WELCOME
* Lock or unlock the doors without using a key. * Open the liftgate window. * Activate or deactivate the autolock feature. * This code is located on the owner's wallet card in the glove box * Is available from your authorized dealer via scan code * Is marked on the computer module * 1995 thru 2001 is located in the jack storage compartment in the rear of your Explorer. First remove the panel to the jack storage compartment. Towards the front of this area you should see a metal box this is your auto-lock module(way up front next to your rear left passenger seat). On the back side of this is your 5 digit code factory preset code. It is hard to get to. To see it you will have to loosen, pull, use a flashlight or a mirror but it can be done. * 2002 thru 2007 is in the right panel behind the middle row window. It is below the seat belt mechanism. You have to pull out the top plastic panel off, then loosen the lower panel to be able to see the face of the computer module. The code is on a sticker on the face of the module. The factory set code cannot be reprogrammed but you can create your own 5�digit personal entry code. When pressing the controls on the keypad, press the middle of the controls to ensure a good activation. Up to three personal entry codes may be programmed to the vehicle. To create your own personal entry code: * 1. Enter the factory set code. * 2. Within five seconds press the 1 � 2 on the keypad. * 3. Enter your personal 5-digit code. Each number must be entered within five seconds of each other. * 4. Press 1 � 2, 3 � 4 or 5 � 6 to indicate which of the three personal entry code positions you wish to use. * 5. The doors will again lock then unlock to confirm that your personal key code has been programmed to the module. Tips: * Do not set a code that uses five of the same number. * Do not use five numbers in sequential order. * The factory set code will work even if you have set your own personal code. * If you program a code to a position that already contains a set code, the previously-set code will be erased. * 1. Enter the factory set 5�digit code. * 2. Within five seconds, press the 1 � 2 on the keypad and release. * 3. Press and hold the 1 � 2 for two seconds. This must be done within five seconds of completing Step 2. All personal codes are now erased and only the factory set 5�digit code will work. If the wrong code has been entered 7 times (35 consecutive button presses), the keypad will go into an anti-scan mode. This mode disables the keypad for one minute and the keypad lamp will flash. * One minute of keypad inactivity. * Pressing the UNLOCK control on the remote entry transmitter. * The ignition is turned to the 3 (ON) position. * To unlock the driver�s door, enter the factory set 5-digit code or one of the vehicle�s personal codes. * Each number must be pressed within five seconds of each other. The interior lamps will illuminate. * To unlock all doors and liftgate, press the 3 � 4 control within five seconds. * To open the liftgate window, press the 5 � 6 control within five seconds. * To lock all doors, liftgate and liftgate window, press the 7 � 8 and the 9 � 0 at the same time. * Note: The driver�s door must be closed. You do not need to enter the keypad code first. * Your vehicle comes with the autolock feature enabled. Note: The autolock feature can be activated/deactivated independently of the autounlock feature. Before following the activation or deactivation procedures, make sure that the anti-theft system is not armed, ignition is in the 1 (OFF/LOCK)position, and all vehicle doors, liftgate and liftgate window are closed. *Keyless entry key pad procedure * 1. Turn the ignition to the 1 (OFF/LOCK) position. * 2. Close all doors, the liftgate and liftgate window. * 3. Enter 5�digit entry code * 4. Press and hold the 3 � 4. While holding the 3 � 4 press the 7 � 8. * 5. Release the 7 � 8. * 6. Release the 3 � 4. The user should receive a horn chirp to indicate the system has been disabled or a chirp followed by a honk to indicate the system has been enabled. Autounlock The autounlock feature will unlock all the doors when: � the ignition is in the 3 (ON) position, all the doors are closed, and the vehicle has been in motion at a speed greater than 12 mph (20 km/h); � the vehicle has then come to a stop and the ignition is turned to the 1 (OFF/LOCK) or 2 (ACC) position; and � the driver door is opened within 10 minutes of the ignition being transitioned to the 1 (OFF/LOCK) or 2 (ACC) position. Note: The doors will not autounlock if the vehicle has been electronically locked before the driver door is opened. Your vehicle comes with the autounlock feature activated. * 1. Turn the ignition to the 1 (OFF/LOCK) position. * 2. Close all doors, the liftgate and liftgate window. * 3. Enter 5�digit entry code * 4. Press and hold the 3 � 4. While holding the 3 � 4 press the 7 � 8 twice. * 5. Release the 7 � 8. * 6. Release the 3 � 4. The user should receive a horn chirp to indicate the system has been disabled or a chirp followed by a honk to indicate the system has been enabled. The keyless entry touch pad can use two codes. The factory code and one personal code . To program your own personal code, select a 5 digit code that doesn't use 5 digits in sequence or the same button 5 times. Enter your factory code Within 5 seconds press the 1/2 button Within 5 seconds of pressing the 1/2 button, enter your 5 digit personal code, pressing each digit within 5 seconds of the previous digit. You can now use either code to operate the keypad # Sit in car, doors closed. Electronically unlock all doors using the power door unlock switch on the driver's door. # Insert key into ignition switch and turn from OFF to ON 8 times within 10 seconds with the 8th time ending in the ON position. (5 times on some models) # The doors should lock and unlock by themselves to signal programming mode. # Using your remote: lock the doors.
As you stand in front of the engine, hood open, the cylinder numbering is as follows:
4 - 8
3 - 7 2 - 6 1 - 5 Front
So, the 3 cylinder is on the passenger side, 2nd from the back. This numbering scheme should be the same for all Ford engines going back to the '60s.
this is a common problem with all 4th gen, F-Bodies, the problem is the one of your taillight sockets has shorted out.
Normally the Black wire of the three wires which is the ground wire. Some can be fixed most can't it is inside the socket. Best bet is to find a 93-97 f-body,(camero, firebird) in a junkyard and cut the sockets out, and splice and replace one at a time til you find the bad one.
You can test for a bad one if you have an ohm meter. Inside the socket there are 3 metal strips, 2 in the bottom, 1 around the inside, check to see if the ground(black wire) is 0 ohms from more than 1 of the strips, if 2 strips show 0 ohms, that socket is toast.
Make sure when you cut the wires on the junkyard sockets you have at least 4-5 inches of wire. The more the better.
I am not sure what all of the symptoms are, but if your turn signals work at times, or flash rapidly at times, the problem may be just like the one I had with my 1999 Century. I found after gaining access to the dash thru the removable panel on the driver's side, that the flasher assembly was bouncing around inside the dash compartment. I could recreate the symptoms every time I moved the flasher assembly and attached wires. I secured the flasher to the inside of the panel using a zip-tie, and have not had a problem since. I could not believe how easy it was to fix, after spending hours checking all the bulbs and sockets and wiring.
Do yourself a favor. When buying a New Alternator have them check it before taking it home? I had a bad incident that I ended up with, 3 bad alternators in one day, 3 different stores. Last store check it before I took it home and everything was good. I ended up changing it 3 times. Make sure they also change the pulley.
Removal & Installation
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Rotate the drive belt tensioner away from the drive belt and remove the drive belt from the alternator pulley.
3. Detach the electrical harness connectors at the alternator assembly.
4. Disconnect the positive battery cable and remove the nut and washer.
5. Remove 2 front alternator bolts.
6. Remove the rear alternator support bracket retaining bolts and the support bracket.
7. Remove the alternator from the vehicle.
8. Place the alternator in position and loosely install 2 front alternator retaining bolts.
9. Install the alternator bracket and 3 alternator bracket bolts. Tighten to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
10. Tighten 2 front alternator retaining bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
11. Connect 2 electrical hardness connectors to the alternator assembly.
12. Connect the positive battery cable and install the nut and washer. Tighten the nut to 72 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
13. Rotate the drive belt tensioner away from the drive belt and install the drive belt on the alternator pulley.
14. Connect the negative battery cable.
15. Start the engine and check for proper charging system operation.
Your power steering has a lot to do with the way your car handles. A sudden change in steering could be any/all of the following: low fluid, a broken belt (there is a belt that connects the engine's main drive pulley to the power steering, alternator, air conditioning, etc. pulleys) or the power steering pump went bad. Before you take your car to the shop, check the fluid and the belts to make sure they are OK. Note that loose belts are the same as broken belts. The belt MUST have the correct tension in it for it to work properly. In virtually all modern cars, belt tension is set with a spring loaded pulley that should always maintain the correct tension. You should check out the belt tensioner too. If all these check out properly, then the power steering pump is the next most likely culprit. Finally, the power steering rack - the thing that couples the hydraulic pressure from the power-steering pump into the steering mechanism - may need replacement or rebuilding.
as hot as the exhaust manifold there are exhaust gases passing through it
There are clips on the assembly that you have to release, which pull up. The whole light assembly then can be pulled from the front. DO NOT touch the glass portion of the replacement bulb as the oils from your fingers will make the bulb overheat and blow on use. Remove the old bulb, put in the new bulb and replace the assembly (take your time to make sure it lines up straight). Then replace the clips and you're good to go. I know this because I tried to figure it out myself and ended up having a service guy walk me through it so I would know when I had to do it again.
The halogen bulb contains gas under pressure. The bulb may shatter if the gas envelope is scratched or if the bulb is dropped. Handle the bulb carefully. Grasp the bulb only by its base. Avoid touching the glass envelope.
Ã¨ The headlamp bulb should not be removed from the headlamp until just before a replacement bulb is installed. Removing the bulb for an extended period of time may affect headlamp bulb performance. Contaminants may enter the headlamp where they can settle on the lens and reflector. Never turn on the headlamps with the bulb removed from the headlamp.
Removal & Installation
1. Raise and support the hood.
2. Raise the headlamp retainers by pushing rearward and pulling up.
3. If equipped, rotate the headlamp bulb protective counterclockwise and remove.
4. Disconnect the headlamp bulb electrical connector. Be careful not to break the retainer clip which is made of plastic.
5. Remove the headlamp assembly.
6. Rotate headlamp bulb retainer counterclockwise and remove.
7. Remove the headlamp bulb by pulling it straight out with a gentle up-and-down rocking motion.
Do not touch the glass bulb with your fingers. Oil from your fingers can severely shorten the life of the bulb. If necessary, wipe off any dirt or oil from the bulb with rubbing alcohol before completing installation.
8. Install a new bulb into the headlamp assembly.
9. Install the headlamp bulb retainer and turn it clockwise to engage the retaining tabs.
10. Attach the bulb electrical connector.
11. If equipped, install the headlamp bulb protective cover.
12. Install the headlamp assembly.
Ã¨ Be sure the headlamp assembly is positioned correctly with the alignment pins inserted into the proper holes and onto the ribs of the reinforcement.
13. Engage the retainers by gently pushing down.
14. Turn the lights on and check the bulb operation.
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