i believe it is in front of the radiator

The 1997 Chevy 1500 throttle position sensor is located on the firewall in the engine compartment. The throttle position sensor will be in the center of the firewall.

E12 external torx

I experienced this problem when I first brought my used '98 Expy home. I searched Ford Forums and found that the latches seem to get stuck in either of the doors (i.e. drivers. passenger and hatch) I sprayed W40 on the inside opening of the door latches and in the actual latch itself and slammed my door several times and to my delight, the lights went out (interior and running board as well. David (04/21/06

You need to remove the top half of the door card and then you can prise the inside black cover off the wing mirror, exposing the power lead (on an electric mirror) and also the 3 retaining screws. Then you just need to unplug the lead which is just inside the door card and the screws and the wing mirror is off. Whalaa

low pressure line leading toward the firewall,,,but read up on this everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the library should have a professional shop manual available in the REFERENCE section...make copies of the right sections...good luck :)

They are screwed into the exaust system at various points. Some people say that there are 4 oxygen sensors, but technically, that is not correct. Only the front 2 are considered oxygen sensors. They are screwed into the exaust pipe, one on each bank, after the exaust manifold, but before the catalytic converter. Sometimes they are screwed directly into the exaust manfold itself. The other 2 are actually called catalyst moniters. They are oxygen sensors, but they serve a different purpose. They moniter the activities of the catalytic converters, thus the name, catalyst moniters. They are screwed into the exaust one on each bank,after, or downstream, of the catalytic converters. A 7/8ths inch wrench is the size needed to turn the O2 sensors. They just unscrew out normally. The connectors on the front O2's will be a challenge. They are way up behind the engine in a really stupid place to get access and unplug/plug in.

You can view the 2004 Ford Expedition owners manual online at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

The fuses and relays section starts on page 249

The manual has the diagram and list

Usually when the turn signal indicator in the car blinks fast is because one of the bulbs is blown. Check to make sure all your indicators are working when you turn on your left blinker. There are at least 3, front.. mirror... and rear.

Push headlight retaining housing retaining clips (rectangular metal tabs located above radiator wall and to outside and rear or headlight)rearward, then upward to release headlight assembly. Pull headight assembly forward from body. Unscrew bulb retaining ring. Remove bulb from headlight housing. Remove bulb from socket wiring by pulling straight out. Insert new bulb into socket wiring (use paper towel to avoid touching bulb). Reinstall by reversing removal instructions.

you also may have to loosen the air filter assembly and remove the air intake flange (rubber part) to gain full access to the screw holding the coolant tank.

If the CD is stuck in the load opening, take something small enough but with a blunt end and push at the CD to go back in several times and eventually it will come back out. I have found certain burned CD's with sticker labels can not be put in there because of the thickness. You can try like a butter knife, tweezeers or finger nail file but becareful not to push on the bottom part because you can scratch the CD. At least that's how it works in mine.

check the starter what year is it , if the key has a transponder chip and you are using a dup made at a wallamrt it won't work.

remove the steering colum cover there is a pin type button you need to push in on the bottom of the ignition switch. press that and turn the cylinder at the same time. if you dont have a key or it is broke a screwdriver will work been there before.

Remove the door and window handles then all of the screws you can find then with a special tool, remove the retiners around the sides and bottom of the door. When all is loose, pull out on the bottom and push in on the top then lift to disengage the door.

Go to the following website. It will show how to remove the door panel. http://www.kwmuth.com/techsupport/pdfs/21000790.pdf

LOOSEN& REMOVE THE 2 BOLT FROM BEHIND THE CALIPER TOP & BOTTOM. I THINK ITS A 1/4 IN. SOCKET. THEM YOU MIGHT HAVE TO TAP THE CALIPER WITH A HAMMER TO GET IT LOOSE, WHEN LOOSE REMOVE IT FROM ROATAR..

The door sensor is an integral part of the door latch mechanism. The sensor cannot be replaced independent of the latch. A sensor appears on each of the four doors, as well as the tailgate. WD40 sprayed on the sensor sometimes frees it up (you must remove the interior door panels to access -- it's part of the latch and difficult to see because it's well hidden inside the door), but just as often, WD40 won't cure it. You can also remove the 15Amp fuse in position 14 in the box located beneath the driver's side of the dash. This will disable the interior lights as well as the running board lights (good), but it also disables the power windows (bad). This will, however, solve the problem of the lights remaining on after the doors are shut and running down your battery. The only true fix is the replace the affected latches. They sell for approx. $55 on the Web, and unless you're mechanically inclined, and very patient, you should have the dealer do it for you (expensive). Malfuntioning door sensors are a very common problem on Expeditions, Explorers and Windstars.

you first take the tire off. then you take caliper off and then the dust cover, then take the codder pin out. Unscrew the bolt and pull off rotor be carefull the front bearings are not held in by a seal so they will fall out when you take the rotor off. To take the rear seal off and get the bearing out go from the front side take something like the end of a wood hammer, stick it through the center and put on the back of the bearing. take another hammer and pound the bearing until the seal breaks loose. Take the bearing out clean all the grease out with an alchol based cleaner then take your new bearings be sure to pack them well and grease up the inside of the rotor and stick the rear bearing in tampered end down and use a block of wood and pound the new seal in and make sure it is level all the way around with the metal. then stick the front bearing in tampered end down and then put your washer on top of bearing. grease the spindle up good and put the rotor back on the spindle and make sure you break the bearing in by spinnig the rotor and tighen and loosen and tighen and loosen the nut about 4 time to break the bearings in. Make sure you put new cobber pin in and put dust cap on and caliper then put wheel back on and you are all set to go.

Control over the division of cells is lost.

You can buy a recharge kit from your local auto parts store and it will come with directions but, if the system was empty there must be a leak so recharging it will be a waste of money. Have the system serviced by a qualified technician.

The most likely cause is a dilution of the fuel/ air mixture caused by a vacumn leak. check for a hissing sound near the top center of the engine.

Yes it is. I know this by experience. Timing jumped and bent the valves

On a 1999 Ford Expedition , 5.4

The firing order is ( 1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8 )

The engine cylinder locations are numbered :

firewall

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front of vehicle

The 5.4 has the Coil On Plug ( C.O.P. ) ignition system with ( 8 ) individual coils

Mass Airflow Sensor Operation The Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor directly measures the mass of air being drawn into the engine. The sensor output is used to calculate injector pulse width. The (MAF) sensor is what is referred to as a "hot-wire sensor". The sensor uses a thin platinum wire filament, wound on a ceramic bobbin and coated with glass, that is heated to 200*C (417*F) above the ambient air temperature and subjected to the intake airflow stream. A "cold-wire" is used inside the (MAF) sensor to determine the ambient air temperature. Battery voltage from the EEC power relay, and a reference signal and a ground signal from the PCM are supplies to the (MAF) sensor. The sensor returns a signal proportionate to the current flow required to keep the "hot-wire" at the required temperature. The increased airflow across the "hot-wire" acts as a cooling fan, lowering the resistance and requiring more current to maintain the temperature of the wire. The increased current is measured by the voltage in the circuit, as current increases, voltage increases. As the airflow increases the signal return voltage of a normally operating (MAF) sensor will increase. Testing 1. Using a multimeter, check for voltage by back probing the (MAF) sensor connector. 2. With the key ON, and the engine OFF, verify that there is at least 10.5 volts between the VPWR and GND terminals of the (MAF) sensor connector. If voltage is not within specification, check power and ground circuits and repair as necessary. 3. With the key ON, and the engine ON, verify that there is at least 4.5 volts between the SIG and GND terminals of the (MAF) sensor connector. If voltage is not within specification, check power and ground circuits and repair as necessary. 4. With the key ON, and the engine ON, check voltage between GND and SIG RTN terminals. Voltage should be approximately 0.34-1.96 volts. If voltage is not within specification, the sensor may be faulty. Removal & Installation (4.6L & 5.4L) 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Release the air cleaner clamp and separate the air cleaner halves. 3. Remove the grommet from the air cleaner housing and slide the grommet down the hardness. 4. Remove the (MAF) sensor plate and (MAF) sensor from the air cleaner. 5. Detach the (MAF) sensor from the harness. 6. Remove the retaining nuts and remove the (MAF) sensor. 7. Installation is the reverse of removal.