To begin, jack up the car and remove the wheel. Be certain the car is stable and will not roll off jack(s)!
A lot of folks like to think this is complicated and hard without some difficult tools, but it's so easy compared to a ball joint, it's scary.
Remove the brake caliber and the brake pads/rotor. Support the brake caliper with a wire connected to the Strut Tower.
Remove the spindle nut on the end of the drive axle. On the opposite side of the hub bearing are 3 bolts that hold it in there. Using a short-socket 15-18mm and a breaker bar or 1/2'' ratchet, loosen each of the bolts, then once all are loosened, remove them.
Believe it or not, unless the hub assembly is damaged, this thing will litterally fall out (in my case on my foot). Just take grease, (I like axle grease) and slide the new one in, aligning the holes, and getting the bolts back in the right place. Tighten them once all are in place. Put your car back together, retighten the axle nut, (with washer) and your done.
They tried to tell me at various places I needed all sorts of tools, and couldn't do this myself, but on the 1998 Sable, it couldn't have been easier. Now contrast that to the Ball Joint, which is so hard, I'd have taken that to a mechanic had I had the money.
REMOVE FRONT WHEEL, BRAKE CALIPER (13MM SOCKET); CALIPER MOUNTING BRACKET (15MM)AND AXLE NUT. YOU'LL THEN BE ABLE MOVE THE HUB ASSEMBLY IN A TINY BIT TO MAKE IT EASIER TO REMOVE THE 3 BOLTS THAT HOLD THE HUB ON. WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE AXLE NUT DONT BE AFRAID TO MAKE IT EXTREMELY TIGHT 250FT LBSThe answer to "How to change a wheel..."remove the wheel, and the brake caliper. unbolt the spindle nut (30mm) and the lower ball joint and push the spindle out of the bearing/hub. undo three bolts from the back side of the knuckle that are holding the wheel bearing package on. then knock off the old wheel bearing with a hammer. lube the new one and press it in, then put things back together in reverse.
NOTE: Autozone now requires (March 09) free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.
remove the wheel, and the brake caliper. unbolt the spindle nut (30mm) and the lower ball joint and push the spindle out of the bearing/hub. undo three bolts from the back side of the knuckle that are holding the wheel bearing package on. then knock off the old wheel bearing with a hammer. lube the new one and press it in, then put things back together in reverse.
I have a 1997 Mercury Sable but I think it is still the same as you 99...
First remove the tire, then remove brake caliper (15mm) and the wheel/axle nut (30mm).
Then remove the outer tie-rod end nut (18mm) and disconnect the tie-rod end. This will allow you to turn the hub enough so that you can push the cv halfshalf out.
After the axle is out of the hub or loose enough, you will have access to the 3 screws holding the hub/wheel bearing assamble from behind (15mm)... after you remove the screws you just have to pull the assembly out.. it's not easy but what I did was just hammer it out from behind.
Make sure you clean the area well and perhaps even lubricate it a little bit so you can push the new hub/wheel bearing assembly in.
Installation is just the opposite of removal. I purchased the new hub/wheel baring assembly from Autozone for $69.
I hope this will be helpful to you...good luck!
* remove the wheel, and the brake caliper. * unbolt the spindle nut (30mm) and the lower ball joint * push the spindle out of the bearing/hub. * undo three bolts from the back side of the knuckle that are holding the wheel bearing package on. * knock off the old wheel bearing with a hammer. * lube the new one and press it in, then put things back together in reverse.Is the Hub/Bearing pressed into the steering knuckle?Since at least 1996, the bearing/hub assembly has been simply bolted to the steering knuckle. This makes replacement a whole lot "easier"
That is correct, the bearing is in a complete hub assembly. You do not need to press in the bearing. Bearings for a 2000 Ford Taurus (Front) can be purchased at http://mibearings.com/paypalparts/513100.html
On to the repair instructions and advice...
The hub bearing is purchased a whole unit.
no bearung change!
you can go to napa auto parts they have them I just did 2 front hubs for 97.00 cdn each.
ps b 4 doing the job make sure your wheel nuts fit your new hub
I experienced that my new hubs were diffrnt size
See "Related Questions" below for the Autozone Chiltons repair manual section on front wheel bearing/hub replacement for the 2000-2005 Taurus / Sable
NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.
An agreement, possessing the legal characteristics of a partnership, between two or more parties who join forces to achieve some specific, short-term goal, such as the design and construction of a project.
Bad switch? stalk
bad wiper motor? bad low speed winding
I had a '92 Corsica that had that problem, it was the weather stripping along the door that was causing the problem. If it doesn't seal properly, or if the weather stripping is coming loose in some place it won't work as well as it should.
Many ford escorts have that problem from a leak where the rain water is not draining completely from cowl area and dripping into the vent system around the blower fan on the passenger side. I also saw a Chevy cavalier with a wet floor from the a/c condensation not draining & it was overflowing into the passenger area.
Our 1999 Grand am had a small pinhole in the floor allowing water to come up under the carpet. Pull your carpet back a little and take a water hose spray under floor boards see if you can see water coming in.
well many of the older cars have drains from the vents they can be difficult to locate but look at the bottom of your wind shield and remove the plastic cover that covers the air filter take a vacuum a suck it all out pour a glass of water in there well not into where the blower motor is just at the base of where the filter was a see if the water drains out if not the drain is still plugged and that is how the water is getting in it floods the compartment and backs up in to the motor shroud and in turn leaks out onto the passenger side floor so try an air hose or just keep on vacuuming until you find it good luck
The front rotors on a Venture van are removed by removing the brake caliper (two bolts on backside), don�t forget to support caliper. Don�t let caliper hang by the brake hose. I use a piece of clothes hanger. After the caliper is remove take the caliper bracket off by removing the two bolts for it on the backside. After the bracket is removed the rotor will come off. If the rotor has never been removed there may be one or two spring clips on the lugs. Remove them with a pair of diagonal cutters and discard. Installation is a reverse of the removal. The spring clips do not need to be replaced. A lug nut can be use until the assembly is complete to hold the rotor in place. Remove lug nut and reinstall wheel. Don�t forget to torque all bolts properly.
Trouble code P0135 means:O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction
(Bank 1 Sensor 1)
First guess would be low on refrigerant, causing the compressor to quit running after a short period. Could also be a buildup of pressure in the system, causing the system to shut down. Also possible that the fan clutch or some assembly on the compressor only works for a short period. . .
IF YOU DID NOT OPEN THE BLEEDER SCREWS ON THE CALIPER WHEN YOU PUSHED THE PISTON BACK IN, THEN THERE IS NO NEED TO BLEED THE SYSTEM. WHEN YOU GET EVERTHING BACK TOGETHER, MAKE SURE THE RESERVOIR IS FULL, THEN JUST PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL UNTIL IT IS SOLID AGAIN.
To bleed the hydraulic brakes; you fill the reservior, with brake fluid then,go to the farthest.cylinder,find the bleed plug(near the wheel cylinder, looks like a greese fitting) slip a hose tightly over the fitting, submergee the other end in a container of brake fluid,then loosen the fitting; (with a helper., slowly pressing the brake pedel down);fluid will come out to the container,if air bubbles,close the fitting at the end of flow then let up on brake pedel,do this till all air bubbles are gone, then go to next wheel cyl repeat till all cyl are bled(be sure all bleed fittings are re-tightened,when done..
you dont need to bleed your brakes ,,just fit the pads and as long as you havent opened the bleed nipple its ok
Yes I agree. There is no need to bleed brakes unless you have introduced air into the lines. Just changing the pads doesn't allow any air to enter.
how do you replace power steering hose on 99 chev venture
if you can ,lay on your back in the drivers seat and look below the key cylinder.you will see a small hole in the trim.but don't mistake it for the screw holes for the trim.insert the key in the lock ,use somtheng like a pick and insert it through the hole and push on the release button,turn the key to the run positin while pushing ofn the button.
To remove dash, pull off decorative trim on bottom. left of steering wheel is about a 7 inch piece, right of SW is about 22 inches, behind these are Bristol screws to remove the bottom of the dash cover, top of dash cover has Bristol screws whcih you can see. Must remove AC/Heater/headlight switch knobs.
If this is a anti-lock equiped car then feeling some pulsing is normal especially on hard breaking. If not then I would say it could be several things. One is that it might take a few miles for the pads to really wear down and conform to the surface of the disc rotor. Another thing is that there might be a little dirt, water, or something that got in the brake line. This will cause the hydraulic brake line to not be able to hold the pressure of applied braking and could cause "pulsing". Third reason would be that the rotor is bad. Did they give you new rotors or jst machine them down. I always replace the rotors with new ones and new break pads. It has always solved that problem for me. Another thing to try is bleeding the entire brake system of the fluid and replace it. Debris and water will destroy this system from the inside out after time. Good luck and I hope you fix it.
The front & rear washer fluid reservoir is the same on these vans. The difference is that the pump for the rear wiper is mounted higher on the reservoir and toward the back of the engine compartment. So when the fluid starts to run low (not all the way down), the rear wiper pump will appear to "run out" first - before the front windshield. It kind of makes sense, since you are much more dependent on having vision to the front than the rear.
pay 18 dollars for a new one and just screw the fittings on. Make sure system is bleed afterwards. The line is good for about 13 years.
Remove transmission oil pan to access fluid and filter
well, I'm glad I'm not the only one. I can't see it, i can barely get my hand in to feel around. tomorrow I'll find somebody to show me how to put the darn bulb in without having to disassemble half the car.
Just remove the headlight assembly above the turn signal/daylight running light in question. It will provide you with easy access.
that seems like the easy way to do this, but if you simply get under your Camaro unolt the first three bolts from the flap directly under where your head lights and turn signal lights are...then just stick your hand in there and wha la!
NO NO NO NO. It is very simple. Lift the front end enough to get comfortable access from underneath. Remove the access panel. Once you have noticed this, you will think you were an idiot.
65 ft lbs
Nanci, in the book it tells you to disconect the front engine supports and use a ratchet strap to roll the engine foreward. I have not tried it yet but if you have the repair book and follow the directions it looks simple enough. I was going to try to change them without doing it and it looks impossible. I got the book from autozone. But I know the library has a copy you can check out. Good luckAnswerI did sparkplug change and wires without removing anything else. The back three plugs look mind numbingly impossible, but you can (if you don't have meaty hands) get to them from underneath. Took me about 2 and 1/2 hrs to change plug and wires. You need a 3 inch socket extension for the plugs and, I used a full length handled 3/8 rachet. A stubby handle rachet would make removeal much easier. As for removing the wires; There is a wire loom on the back, the same as is on the front wires. The loom on the back I could not get unclipped. So, I cut it off. The wires that go to the back are quite short and I didn't bother to reinstall the loom. You can fish the wires up and out from on top of the engine, just work them slow and carefully. They came out easier than I thought they would. Enjoy.
I am not an expert, but I just did my 2000 Venture today, new plugs and wires.
Tips about rotating engine forward if you do not have ramps... I don't. Engine needs to be in neutral, ratchet strap on driver side lifting eye, other end goes below radiator frame mount. Haynes manual shows a hook next to condenser - I don't put pointy things next to cores. Cinch up ratchet strap, then remove the 2 dogbones using 13/15 mm socket on the bolt/nut. Be sure to remove throttle/cruise cables and the big rubber air intake before rotating the engine.
Coil pack...10 mm screws in front, 13 mm nuts on standoffs next to firewall, 3 Packard connectors. I couldn't pull coil pack out as the wiper linkages were in the way - I just pushed it aside, but I also dremel wire-wheeled the corrosion off the terminals.
I got at rear plugs with 1/2" drive with 1/2-3/8 adapter + 2" extension + deep well plug socket. No u-joints required.
Comment to above: loose 8 mm bolts on wiper arm attached to wiper motor,pop up arm and move to driver side.This gives you more room and also can remove coil pack.
Don't gap the plugs - check with parts store as they should be pre-gapped. Gapping may remove platinum from premium plugs and you don't want to do this. Also, a tough job - buy the best wires/plugs u can as this whole thing took me 5+ hours and I don't want to do again for several years.
Use anti-seize compound on the plugs on about 1/2 the threads farthest from the tip as this will make subsequent removal easier.
Number your plug wires with sharpie on both ends, 1-6, it will help keep them straight.
Front plugs/wires are a snap compared to rear bank. I am not a mechanic, just technical by nature and armed with a Haynes manual - again recommended.
It is basically all about removing the inside trim and then getting the retainer pins out that hold the window in place.
Once you have remove the window, replacement is just the reverse steps.
it is possibly a heater hose
Take it to a Ford Dealer.
Can anyone tell me how to perhaps fixed a stretched cable until I can afford to put a new one in it? Do I have to make adjustments at both ends? I've attempted to take the steering column apart before, but it got very complicated. Also, is there an easy way to disable the air-bag (steering wheel mounted) while I work on the cable? Please help. Steven
I would suggest replacing the range switch, first of all, as well as the shifter cable if you think it is suspect, and perhaps the steering column and instrument cluster as well. It sound like you have multiple issues both at the transmission and in the column.
You should use "Honda Power Steering Fluid" ONLY!
Sometimes you can tell if you take the cover off but if you are alredy there you can replace it. Get a manual on your car to find out how to do it.
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