Put diesel in it. Or drain all of the oil/antifreeze if you want the damage to be most likely irreversable.🚗🚙 yer
See *Back-Up Lamps* on page 5-56 of your "Owner's Manual", under Section 5: Service and Appearance Care - Bulb Replacement, for details.....
Because too old or get damaged
If an engine is not tuned properly and allowed to run continuously, it can damage the cat by overheating and melting the catalyst inside causing an air restriction. The inside of the cat can also break up into pieces causing again an air restriction.
Move seat fully forward, remove side trim, remove seat belt retaining bolt, remove seat tracks rear bolts, flip seat upwards, disconnect wiring, remove seat.....
Change it every 3500 miles if it is a pre 1995 vehicle. If it is a post 1995 Impala change it every 5,000 miles. It will say in your owner's manual. If you don't have one, you can go to a parts store and find a maintenance schedule on the first few pages of the Haynes manual for that vehicle.
Usually a car dog tracks when the car has been in a serious accident, and the frame was hit hard enough to bend it out of its original shape. If the frame is out of alignment, the wheels will not track in line with the other tires, giving the car the look of its rear end running offset from its front end (like a dog looks when it's running).
If the car has rear leaf springs, the rear axle could have slid, back or forth: There is a pin in the top of the leaf spring that fits into a small hole in the bottom of the rear axle housing. If that pin is broken or has popped off the hole, the axle can move. Look at the car from both sides (stand back a little) and note what position the rear tires are in the wheel wells. They should both be the same.
100 ft-lbs (140 N*m). See *Caution* on page 5-31 of your "Owner's Manual", under Section 5: Problems on the Road - Changing a Flat Tire.....
remove the molding off the bottom and in the wheel well. most of the nuts should be 7mm. look on your new fender to locate all the attachment points. once you've removed all attachments, remove fender and replace with new. tighten all the screws and snap molding back into place
Sometimes chemicals causes rust to get into the water lines. a change in water pressure will cause this rust to turn loose and come through into the bathtub or other appliances. Another cause could be a break in the pipe. What you may be seeing is dirt. What happens is when the water flows, and then you turn it off, it creates a slight low pressure in the line, which pulls in dirt around the pipe. When you turn on the flow, that dirt is pushed along till it comes out of the tap. After several cycles, you can have a bunch of dirt in the lines, which dissolves and makes the water look brown or rusty.
Sediment from the water heater-Flush it out! or, Somewhere in the piping someone used a black iron pipe nipple. Two other possibilities: the glass lining in the water heater may be compromised, allowing the metal jacket to rust. If this is the case, you are not long till it starts to leak. Or...if you are on a well, iron bacteria may be growing, and may not be showing up in the cold water because it remains invisible in solution until it is heated, or has more time to react with oxygen in the water heater. In this case, shock chlorination of the well may be in order. A simple test by a water treatment company will tell this, and in many areas, it is free.
If only the hot water is rusty... It's 100% your hot water tank!
The real reason why your not seeing it in your cold water,is because your cold water lines run directly to your water fixtures.
A cold water line also runs to your hot water tank,then your hot water tank supplies your fixtures with heated water. Hence how you have hot water.
REPLACE your hot water tank,and evrything will be fine. Don't go through the trouble the posting above you tells you too. I don't think that person is an actual plumber,or he lives in the United States. There plumbers aren't actual plumbers.
The answer immediately above is the only sensible answer. The problem is your tank - you probably never changed the rod ? So your tank is now generating rust and will only get worse!
Of course not. It runs on gasoline.
happened with my dads auto transmission.. it was shot and it wouldn't shift out of the 1st automatic gear, hence, not being able to accelerate over 20/ It could also be a tranmission tourque converter failing. Also could be a broken gear inside the tranny, which will not engage no matter what. I have one cause in mind, because it's often so obscure and difficult to diagnose, yet easy to fix. It's afflicted several cars I own. There are numerous possible causes, of course, like a coil that isn't feeding enough energy to the spark plugs, a choke that's stuck, a fuel pump that's not pumping, an electrical malfunction. But the one that comes to mind is a bad "sock' in the fuel tank. This "sock" is a toothpaste-tube-like fine screen in the fuel tank that is supposed to prevent small particles of junk from entering the fuel lines and the fuel pump. Over time, the pores of this thing can become absolutely restricted--I don't know whether it's a reaction to the gasoline, or whether it's a natural result of the material aging, or what. Result: Hardly enough fuel gets to the engine for it to run. And, of course, the faster you go, the more fuel you need, and the more noticable the restriction is. I've had this happen to two of my Fords, one of my Chevies, and a Buick that a friend had--though, at the time he had his problem, I didn't realize what it was, so we went through the usual routine of replacing fuel filters and fuel pumps. I'd say it happened to my Lincoln, too, but the sock in that car actually disintegrated and wound up being jammed to the carburetor's filter by the fuel pump. Yet in the case of the Lincoln, I couldn't get past 20 mph until the problem was solved by removing the tank, flushing it, reinstalling it, and installing an in-line filter between the tank and the fuel pump. In your case, if a sock is really the problem, I'd remove the fuel sending unit in the tank, chop the sock off, and install an in-line filter. Take this course if you've determined that the car is starving for fuel and you're sure the fuel pump isn't bad. One other possible symptom of this sock problem is observed when the car runs decently in cooler weather and starves for fuel in warmer weather. Another thing is, if you tried replacing your distributor cap and spark plugs. If you did not put them back on properly, the firing order is messed up and you'll have a hard time accelerating. Another cause could be a clogged, or partially clogged, catalytic convertor. Also, a collapsed interior wall of an exhaust pipe, in which case one might hear a whooshing sound as air tries to pass by the restriction.
Is the check engine light on? A bad speed sensor or possibly another sensor could keep the vehicle from up shifting or limiting speed to bring it home in "limp in mode" Possible bad catalytic converter.
The accelerator cable is frayed or sticking. Change it or lube it alot.
Your idle is too high. Have it lowered.
The problem could be some type of vacuam problem. That is what happened to our Explorer. Or maybe a throttle body problem?
if you mean accelerator sticking, I would check the throttle bore. The plate gets heavy carbon build up and should get cleaned every 18,000 miles.
On modern cars, idle is controlled by the Electronic Control Module. An increase in RPM without pressing the gas pedal is called surging. Have the ECM checked for codes and fix the problems it has noted. This should fix the surging problem. On my car, it was the Oxygen sensor. But it could be a number of other things also, including a vacuum leak.
Make sure your floor mat (not even a corner of it) isn't on top of the accelerator pedal. Even the slightest weight can cause the pedal to accelerate enough to be noticeable. The floor mat can slip forward (and has) in two of our new vehicles when we were driving on the highway. It had worked its way off the anchors and slipped forward, causing the vehicles to accelerate.
If it's an automatic transmission, it might be normal provided the engine performance is ok. Auto trannies have a torque converter stall speed. I have a 96 Cadillac Fleetwood and it will move on its own.
Base models: P225/60R16; Impala SS: P235/55R17.....
There are many reasons that the AIRBAG light come come on. The computer will need to be scanned to get the troubles codes. Trouble codes assist in diagnosis of what circuit has a problem. I would suggest getting that done as soon as possible, because an AIBAG light on may mean that the airbags will not deploy in a collision. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
it came with the 327 i believe i think i may be wrong im not quite sure cannot remember i think it was the 327
The last year of the 327 was 1967, I have one in my T-bucket from a corvette of that year. Also there is no such thing as a 327 4-bolt main. The 350 block had no breather pipe at the rear of the block, as did the 265,283,and327, asure fire way of telling the difference if someone trys to sell you a 327 4-bolt. PCV days with the 350 in 1969
The answer that the last year for the 327 was 1967 is incorrect. The 327 was placed in Gm vehicles up til the mid production year of 1969. Sadly it was replaced with the 307. The casting number on the block of a 327 of that year is 3932386, the same casting number as the 302Z motor stamped DZ. The other casting number for that block 3932388, which is the same casting number as the 350 block.To answer your question of whether or not it was used in the impala of that year, you would have to go to anengine ID site. By the way the 327 of that year put out about 210Hp. with simulsr torque ratings. This is a nice motor to build, but if you decide to do this, it's a good idea to update the heads if you plan on driving it regularly.
I have a 327 in my 60 apache panel truck that came from my friends grandmother 69 impala with 2bbl carb. and 200 hp (with 4bbl carb 210 hp) was advertised. it has been updated with 350 heads and 600 edelbrock carn and intake but is still too under powered for my panel.
A 1969 Impala come with a 327ci engine. a friend of mine has two of them they are a 1969 Chevrolet Impala, and they have the silver 327 sign above the signal lights on both of the front fenders.If you need proof you can call my friend Bobby Squires at 1-336-578-1226.He lives in Burlington N.C
My parent's, in 1969 bought brand new a 69 Chevrolet impala, It came with a 327 210 horses,case closed.
Standard engines for the Impala in 1969 were the 250 six cylinder and the 327 V8. You could also order various versions of the 350, 396 and 427 V8. As far as I know the 307 V8 was not available for full size Chevys in 1969, but you could probably make a special order if you for some strange reason wanted it...
The Standard v-8 in 1969 full size Chevys was a 327. I seem to recall that 1968 was the last year the Impala was offered with a 307. In addition, there were two versions of the 350 offered and a 396 big block.
My first car was a 1969 Impala with the low compression version of the 350 "Turbofire" which listed itself as 255 horsepower on the decal on the air cleaner. Unlike the 327, the 350 came with a four barrel carbutetor.
Of course that 255 horsepower was SAE gross, not SAE net as calculated today. Connected to a "Powerglide" two speed automatic, it didn't have much tire-chirping potential.
as far as i know it came with both, i believe that the first part of the year they had 327 and 350 for the second, i do know for sure that they camce with original 350s as that i own a 69 impala convertable and buy checking the Vin was able to see that it was a 350 car.
Yes the 1969 Impala came with a stock 327. You can look up the vehicle and it will have the emble on the side of the car.
In 1969 My Father traded in My Mothers 1968 Chevy Nova SS 350 for a 1969 4 door Impala with a Stock 396
1969 was in fact the first year of the 350, and the last year of the 327cid. Unfortuanetly, the 327 was only available in the Biscane, Bel-air, Impala, and Caprice. the emblem will be on the fender specifying the cid of the engine, which "in the V-8 family" should be 327, 350, 396, and 427. Chevy began the conversion in late 69 to the 350 engines! The transmission should be either a power glide "2 speed" or a 350 "3 speed", but I'm sure it could be ordered with a 400. I don't ever recall ever seeing a 307 in the 69 Impala, but anything is possable. The 5.0 litre 307 was more popular in light bodied trucks.
I have a 1968 Chevy Impala with a 327ci and Camel hump heads. Its sister car a 69 parts car both came from Georgia had 327's
I have a 1969 Impala and it has a 327 in it so yes this was the last year and also it is a two bolt but a very good engine to build.
A stock 1996 Impala SS came with a 5.7 Liter LT1 V8 - 260 horsepower and 330 lb.-ft. of torque. It ran a 15.4 second quarter mile, and did 0-60 mph in 7.2 seconds.
A stock 2005 Dodge Magnum RT comes with a 5.7-liter Hemi V8 - 340 horsepower and 390 lb.-ft. of torque. It runs a 14.7 second quarter mile and does 0-60 mph in 6.3 seconds.
The Dodge wins.
The Magnum R/T will win stock for stock every time. The Magnum R/T does NOT come with a manual transmission. Only a 5-speed automatic with the autostick function. True the Impalla can be modified and most probably are, but so can the Magnum, and then we aren't comparing apples to apples anymore. If you want to compare more similar vehicles, then lets compare a 1996 Impalla SS with a '98-'04 Dodge Dakota R/T. And yes, while the Dakota is a truck, the performance between the Impalla SS and the Dakota R/T is closer. Stock for stock, a race between an Impalla SS and a Dakota R/T will all depend on the driver. And the Dakota R/T takes to mods the same as the Impalla. Handling is also very similar.
True, the Magnum is faster. No doubt. It only took one of the big three 12 years to do so (first year of production on the Impala SS was 1994 and in their times and hp didnt change. Ive owned one of each and with a 12 year jump, don't you think that most Impala SS cars are hiding more under the hood - I'll auto cross a magnum to death in my 1996 Impala. And, to date I only have about 12K invested including purchase price(used. No I didnt wreck the 94 and 95. I sold them to friends.
The Magnum has 3 trim levels, the R/T is faster but the other 2 are not.
The Chevy can make almost as much power with intake and exhaust mods and 1.6 roller rockers. It can also be faster ( than stock ) with a different axle ratio. However, the dodge has a 5 speed tranny and it also weighs slighty less. Nevertheless, the Chevy is much cheaper even with mods and the overall performance can be made comparable to the dodge. I won't sell my 95 Lt-1 Chevy caprice wagon and I don't like the windows on the dodge.
The Vette will smoke the Magnum<----The Viper SRT-10 will smoke the Vette
I am sorry you guys do not own a Magnum. Just sit inside the car and enjoy the wonderful ride and trim. It is truly a luxury car/
Depends a bit on who is driving
Disconnect negative battery post, remove the steering wheel, remove the signal switch lever, remove 3 screws holding switch in place, disconnect harness connection under dash, remove switch while guiding harness threw column.
Mark driveshaft and yoke to insure re-installing in the same location to maintain factory balance remove and discard small "U" bolts at differntial yoke pry driveshaft out of yoke and up onto transmission splines lower driveshaft to ground and slide off of transmission splines use new small "U" bolts upon installation
454 cubic inches = 7,439.73 cubic centimeters = 7,439.73 milliliters = 7.43973 liters
You will need to remove the ashtray, dash plastic, etc., to get at the back of it. Disconnect your battery ground to be safe. There will be one or two wires on it; remember where they were attached. Unscrew the back of the housing; it threads into itself and may be tight. Putting it together is much easier. Good luck.
I have a 2001 impala and for me it comes on when I am too close to the airbag. If you just back up a little it should turn off. Being too close to an airbag could hurt you more then the accident you're in when it goes off.
Check for moisture under the passenger side floor carpeting. There is a known issue with rain water leaking in from the passenger air vent under the front windshield. An air bag device is located on the floor under the passenger seat. This has most likely become corroded due to moisture. If this is the case you'll want to get the leak fixed before you bother working on the air bag issue. (do a Web search for "impala passenger leak" etc. - you'll see lots of complaints of this.
Yes, it can be welded, depending on the location of the crack.
Some radiators are repairablbe, depending on the construction of the radiator. Older style all-brass/copper radiators can be soldered (not welded) if the leak area is accessible and the surrounding metal is strong enough. Some newer style plastic tank/aluminum core radiators can be repaired if the leak is at the joint between the tank(s) and the core, while others cannot. The plastic tanks themselves and the aluminum cores cannot be reliably repaired.
no, it has the V8.
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