You have a problem in one of two places most likely. The switches contacts get worn most often on the driver side and the switch may need replaced or the motor in the door may need replaced. You would have to pull the door panel off and sometimes these motors are difficult to get out. They usually run 40 to 50 dollars at auto zone. If none of these is the problem try a hammer to the window (just kidding).
the wire harness between the doors/chassis always brakes or craks from opening/closing the doors
I found this link with p/n's and pictures along with instructions that appear to be generic to all types of vehicles.
I've had this problem on a couple of old cars. Believe it or not, my boyfriend simply poured rubbing alcohol on the switch (the one that makes the window go up and down) and the windows worked again. He said it cleaned out the "schmutz." whatever, it worked - and it's a cheap thing to try! No need to remove panels or anything else. You can pry up the switch first and hold it away from the door while pouring if you don't want to spoil the leather or fabric.
On most ford or mercury models if you don't use the window often it will stop working. so all you have to do is guess about were you think the window motor is located and hit the door fairly hard with your hand and it should start working. I used to work at a body shop and I saved probably 100 people money with that little trick.
Hate to say it, but the most likely cause us a worn motor. It will kick the breaker off repeatedly. Remedy is not for the failt of heart, but entirely within the perview of weekend mechanics. Replace the drive motor (and regulator, probably). Get lotsa beer and some sympathetic help.
Its probably your window motor. Too hard for the average person to replace- see a mechanic!
I found mine ('90 626) started shuddering. Obviously a lube problem, my mechanic suggested Graphite Powder. Didn't work. Mechanical Oil worked for less than a week.
what worked was....
Brilliant. Slides like a dream for months!
I don't see this response: I spent a few hours learning the hard way that there is, on some cars, a children's window lock switch in the drivers compartment that cuts off power to the rear windows. You don't say which window don't function or if it will roll up. So - if it is off - you can't roll the back windows. RE: 1988 Ford WAgon
kill the monsters in the front page
Sounds like the timing belt is going bad and the motor is out of time slightly. this motor is a dual overhead cam design and it is pretty tricky to change this unless you are a good mechanic.
get an oil change and see if you get the same result
any time you flush an engine the posibility of getting gunk on the oil pump screen is good. You may have to remove the oil pan and clean the pickup screen.
back in the day cars had gauges oil, water and son now we have lights the gauges read out in numbers indicating how much pressure and since we have lights we as a people get alerted , and for good reason, a light normally means your oil pump is not pump the right amount of oil its pumping just slower or faster thus the light remains on...
Drain about 1 gallon of coolant from radiator Follow the upper radiator hose to engine compartment - should end at thermostat housing Remove 2 mounting bolts Remove housing Clean both surfaces Replace gasket Re-Install housing Re-fill coolant slowly to prevent "airlock" Start engine Watch for leaks Run engine to normal operating temperature with heater on Check coolant level
go to manheimgold.com and figure it out.
under the foot rest next to the brake or cluch pedal.
It has navigation thru Onstar with turn by turn directions. Visual display with audio.
It is a combination of education that is entertaining!
Depends on what year Camaro RS you're referring to...
i belive it is 210 horse
i actually reseached your engine and here are the exact specifics.
Engine Configuration V Cylinders 6 Aspiration/Induction Normal Displacement 173.00 CU IN. | 2835.5 cc. | 2.8 L. Horsepower 125.00 BHP (92 KW) HP / Liter 44.6 BHP / Liter Bore 3.50 in | 88.9 mm. | 0.1 m. Stroke 2.99 in | 75.9 mm. | 0.1 m. Fuel Type Gasoline - Petrol
The Chevy Camaro 2.8L specs around 135 horse.
its gotta be less than 145
The 3.4L 1993 camaros engine is rated at about 160hp so this one Id say is around 125-135.
Its not 210hp, that's the v8 you're thinking of. I don't know what the HP actually is tho ... sorry:(
that is still a cable so chances are the end that goes into the tranny tail is loose or stripped its for the most part a plastic component so durability is a factorit is a easy fix so if it where me id start with a connection check then determine if i need to buy a 20.00 dollar cable .... hope it helps chris in dayton Ohio
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but, the most probable cause would be a blown head gasket. Has the engine ever been overheated at any point? This will usually cause this problem. The mechanic should carefully look over the engine block to make sure there are no cracks in the cylinder walls, and check the cylinder head for cracks and warpage. The head gasket seats between the block and the head. There are 2 heads on your engine. If the block is cracked, then you will need a short block, and recommend rebuilt heads as well. Make sure they look it over really good, and I also recommend a new radiator cap, and thermostat. This is the most common cause of overheating.
it could also be bad intake gaskets on the 3.1, I had the same problem with oil in coolant, so I changed intake gaskets, flushed out system, put in new thermotat that was 3 months ago, and the car is still fine. no more oil in coolant!!Honda Man's Answer
Intake gaskets on the 3.1 and 3.4 GM engines are the primary cause of coolant in the oil (just did my brother's today). He didn't overheat his so the head gaskets were ok. Had to change the oil three times before stopped looking like choclate milk. Used the LIS48500 Push rod tool to make the job easier.
Hey Debra=It depands on what engine you have and what part of the country you live in. Call a couple of local shops and get an estimate. GoodluckJoe
I am in the process of replacing my tension assembly in my 1996 Camaro (also a 3800 V6). I haven't got it all apart yet, but I did buy a factory replacement part from O'Reilly's today. From what I can see from looking at the new part, you must remove your alternator first. At that point, you'll see that the tension assembly is a fairly large piece that is only held on by a few bolts. Toward the top, it forms one of the mounts that the alternator attaches to, and toward the bottow, it curves back out and has a couple of rubber hoses attached to it. I haven't figured out where the hoses go to exactly, but they look fairly easy to remove.
The thing that really threw me off is that I thought you had to have some sort of special tool to remove the tension assembly. I thought that just the tension pulley (black plastic wheel) and the arm that it attaches to was the assembly, but it's actually a big piece that attaches with a few bolts.
Well, I hope this points you in the right direction. Just remember, remove the alternator first and you'll see how big the assembly actually is.
If its like my Buick Regal (98) there are 2 bolts holding the tensioner on. Remove those bolts (2 1/2 in or so) and it will seem like something else holds it on. It will be loose yet won't come off. Since coolant flows through the tensioner it has to go back into the engine. You have to take a prybar and gently pop it off the engine. There are (2) passages in the tensioner. One is a 90 degree plastic elbow that goes into the intake manifold. This will break when you pry it off. The other passage slips into the water pump. There is an o-ring in there, do not forget to change it. The elbow is called a heater core bypass elbow, your parts store should have it. You will have to use a seal pick to get the old pieces out. Clean the passages out with a rag, spray silicone on the new stuff and it should slip in easily. Also I would suggest if it hasn't been done yet, R@R the lower and upper intake manifold gaskets and get the Dexcool antifreeze out of the motor. Trust me on this, it will save you a ruined engine. Good luck.
Here is a diagram that shows the whole assembly. I am planning on replacing one of the elbow O rings on our Chevy impala because it is leaking, hope it goes smoothly! Thanks for posting your experience.
just put a manual valve body in it
You are going to need a number of parts to do it right. You will need a manual transmission, clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, thrust bearing for the front of the yoke, flywheel, shifter, bell housing with clutch fork, transmission hump extension to house the shifter, shift boot, linkage to steering column, "z" bar linkage to clutch pedal, clutch linkage boot, clutch pedal, narrow brake pedal, clutch bumper, starter cutout switch for clutch, steering column switch to change the timing of the backup light operation. You will need to adjust the wiring under your dash somewhat to get the clutch starter cutout switch operational.
The yoke on the front of your drive shaft will need to be changed to a yoke that matches the splines in the manual transmission that you are swapping to. The length of your drive shaft needs to be checked to make sure there is the proper play to allow for suspension flex. you do not want the drive shaft to push the yoke into the transmission and break something when you hit a big speed bump.
I'm assuming your car (1978 Camaro) was a floor shift to start with and you will be using a manual transmission with a floor shifter. dont forget you will need the pedals for the thing as well.
Around 110-115 MPH
^^^ Not recomended, these OLD cars need TLC dont destroy ur block please keep it at the speed limit, its a 23 year old car.
^^^ITS ACTUALLY a 5.1l engine (widly called a 5.0)...if you would really like to kno it is about 110-115 any faster and you will feel the governor kick in and slow you down. (I have a 92 RS 5.0 and 3rd Gen enthusiast) You can remove the governor by swapping out your chip in your ECU for a performance chip. (to the post above, the 305 5.0 is a toss away engine) Blow that and get urself a brand new Crate 350. Good Luck :)
if your fuel pump isn't working, you'll know when you turn the key just to on without trying to start. it should hum for about 2 seconds. if not, check the voltage at the connector under the car where it goes into the gas tank. if you have voltage, your pump is gone. you might try cutting a hole in the floor above the gas tank with tin snips so you can change the pump without dropping the tank. be careful though. The computer cycles the pump for a few seconds until pressure is built up in the system. this happens when the key is turned to the on possition. the computer has two fuses usually a 15 amp and a 10 amp fuse. one of these fuses makes the relay hot at all times. the pressure return regulator and throttle control send signals to the pump telling it how much fuel is needed to operate the car. there is on most models a bypass wire located under the hood passenger side. the manufacture recomends you take a wire connect it to a ten amp fuse and directly power the pump. if you dont hear it run replace the pump.
I may be wrong but I own a 92 RS 305 there is a fuel pump relay under the hood next to the firewall on passanger side. Not sure for V6 tho.
Both of them can leak at various places. You just have to look at them and see where they are leaking before fixing them. It's impossible to be more specific than this.
Well I don't know much about that car but it could prolly hold a small 6 cylindar, prolly not much higher.
to be honest you will get more power wit a natural asperated 350 then a blown 305 the motor just sucks for getting power no disrepect. you will spend 6000 dollars for just about 100 hp you can but a stroked 350 ready to go for 4000 bucks with over 550 hp cjeck jegd a summit racing for complete engines use the 305 for a boat anchor
Check the air idle control (AIC) valve...It can be cleaned with a throttle body cleaner. Maybe the fuel filter. The shaking could be a motor mount.AnswerAlso bad fuel. Buy gas at a good station not the cheapest station. Put some fuel conditioner in the tank. AnswerTorque converter (part of the transmission).. its a common problem. Get it checked out.. AnswerIve worked with a mechanic that did this once. The car he drove would stall at complete stops sometimes. scan the computer for trouble codes. Check the MAF(Mass Air Flow) sensor. It is located on the throttle body, usually right after the air filter. Most of the time it is flat shaped and just screws into the throttle body. Unplug the electrical connector from it. Unscrew the sensor, clean the inside of the sensor with rubbing alcohol, get any dirt you see out. be careful no to break the little metal pieces inside. screw it back in place and reconnect the electric connector and give it a test drive. If that doesnt work, replace the sensor.
It could even be a "throttle position sensor" I've had a couple of them go on me in the past , they would Scream! the RPM gauge up to 3000 to 4000 and only feel like driving 30 mph is about the fastest I could go, but when I came to a Stop the engine would Die out, had start it up again it would Scream! like a transmission was working too hard! , it would shake and everything later I hooked up my "CODE SCANNER" showed the "Throttle position sensor" was bad I replaced it for $100 at advance auto part store, that was a "throttle position sensor" for a Jeep Cherokee 1998 , they are all priced different for different car makes and models to price might be different for your car, also if you plan on doing alot of "home mechanical" repairs you should Invest in to an "obd2 code-scanners" they are well worth their money you'll be glad you go one, there are cheap ones "flash scanners" and there are "on screen code scanners" that what i have they cost anywhere from $100-$300
1975 model year.
The fuel filter is probably in-line in the gas line. Should be immediately in front of the rear axle, near the driver side rear wheel. Look on the underside of the car, just inboard and forward of the rear springs. Be prepared to stop the gas flow from the tank or you'll end up wearing a lot of fuel. I use the finger from a heavy rubber glove with a wire tie to hold it to the fuel line. Remove the rear fuel line from the filter and put the glove finger over the rear line (the one from the gas tank), then secure it with the wire tie. When you get the filter replace, cut the tip of the finger and then quickly connect the fuel line to the end of the filter. This should minimize fuel loss and spillage. mp
My guesses are:
1. The fuel filler cap breather hole is blocked. Take off the filler and try the engine again - take care with fuel fumes! 2. The in-line fuel filter(s) is blocked. 3. There's a piece of rag in the tank that's being sucked into the fuel line (Yes, this really happened to me once!). 4. If it's carb'ed, not EFI, then see if the carb bowl is full of fuel debris and/or check the line filter.AnswerOK, Thanks, but here is the cause . I had 2 problems.
1st problem - the main relay was weak, had to be replace, the car then ran for about 5 mins - longer but not correct.
2nd problem - A broken ground wire net the transmittion case, somehow this wire broke, once replaced the car is now running fine.
Summary: The cars clutch was replace just before this start happening, somehow the ground wire from the trans case to the body was broken. The relay was bad, but the car may have keep running with the old one. The ground wire was the over all probelm
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