Listings of 1960 Corvettes that are for sale can be found on the Vette Hound website. They can also be found on a website called VetteFinders. Both websites have classified sections devoted entirely to the buying and selling of Corvettes.

6.2 liters

about 379 Cubic Inches

The Concept Corvette Stingray was designed by Pete Brock, Bill Mitchell and Larry Shinoda. You can get more information about this at the Wikipedia. Once on the website, type "Corvette Stingray (concept car)" into the search field at the top of the page and press enter to bring up the information.

You should contact a glass company that replaces auto glass. These businesses are found mostly in major metropolitan areas. It is best to call 3 to 5 different businesses to find the lowest price. Many of these companies will bring the glass to you and install it.

If your vehicle has an automatic belt tensioner with a serpentine belt, the belt is worn and needs to be replaced. On older models, the belt tension can be set by adjusting it at the alternator bracket. Loosen but do not remove the two bolts that hold the alternator in place (one at the bracket and one on the block) and pull the alternator to tighten the belt. Hold in position while re-tightening the bracket bolt then tighten the bolt on the block.

Did you first check the fuses for both of these items ? Secondly, I had a similar problem with my headlights (I had no dash lights )so I went to the bone yard and got a headlight switch and replaced it now they work and I have dash lights As for your second problem I an in the middle of trying to solve that mystery myself sorry I could not be more help Wipers might not turn on due to the 4.8 amp curcuit breaker being out, depending on year it is different locations refer to your manual to find location

take the lines off the pump take the two nuts holding the pump out pull the plate off the block watch the fuel pump rod it might fall out clean the block and plate put some silly cone LOL on the block push the pump rod as far in the block as you can put some silly cone on the pump to and put it all togher you got it watch hoe it comes apart it very simple good luck

My left signal light went two days ago. This is what I had to do. Pull the carpet down Remove all the screws that hold the tail light on You will probably need pliers or a wrench to get out the bulb holder Auto Zone helped me and it used a 3157 sylvania bulb when the manual said to find a 3357. I guess they are interchangeable. Good luck.

To remove the igniton lock, remove the steering wheel and turn signal switch housing. From there you will be able to see the lock which holds the ignition lock into place. slide a screwdriver into the slot and apply pressure. The igntion lock can then be pulled out.

Sometimes an ignition coils will break down under heat and not fire properly. Start there and see if it helps.

Billy

While the manufacturer has not recommended a mileage interval for changing the timing belt on a 1998 Ford Contour, experienced technicians recommend changing the belt at 60,000 miles, according to Autodata's timing belt book. The engine is an interference engine, which means that should the timing belt stretch past its useful life or break, the valves will most likely contact the pistons, causing extreme engine damage. This procedure uses special tools that are available at the dealership.

1.

Step 1

Disconnect the battery ground cable, using a wrench. Raise the front of the Contour with the floor jack, then support it with jack stands. Remove the right-front wheel, using the lug wrench. Remove the lower splash guard for the engine and the right, inner fender lower splash guard.

2.

Step 2

Mark the direction of rotation on the accessory belt, using chalk or correction fluid to draw an arrow. Loosen the accessory belt tensioner with a wrench, then remove the accessory drive belt. Unbolt and remove the water pump pulley and the accessory drive belt tensioner, using the appropriate size sockets.

3.

Step 3

Loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt. Number the spark plug wires so you know where they go when you replace them. Pull the spark plug wires of the plugs, then remove the spark plugs. Carefully slide the screwdriver into the number 1 piston hole until it contacts the piston. Turn the crankshaft until you feel the piston (via the screwdriver) come all the way to the top of the piston bore. At the same time, watch the timing marks on the crankshaft. The engine is on top dead center when the mark on the crankshaft pulley lines up with the mark on the 5 o'clock position on the block, next to the crankshaft pulley. If the marks line up, but the piston is not all the way to the top of the bore, turn the crankshaft once more and everything will line up.

4.

Step 4

Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and the crankshaft pulley, using the appropriate sockets. Make sure the crankshaft does not turn while you are removing the pulley. If it does, repeat Step 3. Remove the lower timing belt cover.

5.

Step 5

Loosen the bolts on the left and right engine mounts. Do not remove the bolts--they need only to be loosened enough so that the engine can move a little bit. Unbolt the radiator overflow tank, but do not disconnect the hoses. Lay the overflow tank out of the way. Disconnect the cruise control cable with the appropriate socket or wrench. The cruise control cable is located on the throttle.

6.

Step 6

Support the engine by placing the 2-by-4-inch board on the floor jack. Slide the floor jack under the engine and jack it up until it contacts the bottom of the engine. Remove the front engine mount, using the appropriate socket.

7.

Step 7

Remove the power steering pipe bracket, the upper timing belt cover and the front engine mount bracket, using the appropriate sockets. Disconnect the accelerator cable and the cruise control cable from the valve cover. Remove the valve cover.

8.

Step 8

Slide the camshaft alignment tool into the slots at the rear of the camshafts. Loosen the tensioner bolt, but do not remove it. Turn the tensioner clockwise with the appropriate-size Allen wrench, releasing tension on the belt. Unscrew the tensioner retaining bolt four turns. Unhook the tensioner bracket from the metal clip behind the tensioner.

9.

Step 9

Remove the plug from the center of the exhaust side camshaft (the right camshaft when you are looking down at the engine) by unscrewing it. Using the appropriate wrench, hold the camshaft by putting the wrench on the hexagon-shaped end of the camshaft where you removed the plug. Loosen the retaining bolts on both camshaft sprockets. Remove the timing belt. Check the valve on the number 4 cylinder. The camshaft lobe should be facing inward.

10.

Step 10

Install the crankshaft pulley, making sure the notch and the pointer are lined up. Remove the plug from the engine block, next to the motor mount bracket. Install the crankshaft timing pin. Adjust the crankshaft until it rests against the timing pin. Make sure all the timing marks stay lined up. Remove the crankshaft pulley.

11.

Step 11

Install the new timing belt around the crankshaft sprocket, working your way counterclockwise, keeping the timing belt tight on the side opposite the tensioner. The timing belt route goes on the inside of the two idler pulleys, then around the outside of the camshafts and the inside of the tensioner. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still pushed up against the timing pin. Hook the tensioner bracket on the metal clip.

12.

Step 12

Turn the tensioner counterclockwise with the appropriate-size Allen wrench, until the pointer is lined up with the mark located halfway between the 12 o'clock and 1 o'clock position. Tighten the tensioner bolt to 18.5 ft-lbs. of torque, then remove the Allen wrench.

13.

Step 13

Hold the camshaft by putting a wrench on the hexagon part of the shaft. Tighten the intake sprocket retaining bolt to 50 ft-lbs. of torque. Tighten the exhaust sprocket retaining bolt to 44 ft-lbs. of torque. Remove the crankshaft timing pin and the camshaft alignment tools.

14.

Step 14

Hold the exhaust camshaft by placing a wrench on the hexagon part of the camshaft. Torque the exhaust sprocket retaining bolt to 89 ft-lbs. of torque. Turn the crankshaft almost two turns (slowly). Reinstall the crankshaft timing pin. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until it touches the timing pin. Reinstall the camshaft tool in the camshaft slots to make sure it slides in smoothly. If it doesn't, remove the belt and repeat the procedure.

15.

Step 15

Remove the camshaft tool and the crankshaft timing pin. Install a new plug into the exhaust camshaft sprocket and torque the plug to 27 ft-lbs. of torque. Install the plug into the crankshaft timing pin hole and tighten it to 18.5 ft-lbs. of torque. Install the rest of the parts in reverse order of removal. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 85 ft-lbs. of torque.

if it is like a '95.....remove the left front wheel.....remove the plastic fender well.....it is attached to a bracket right there above the well....I replaced my power antenna with a short rubber whip antenna.......

Under the hood you will see 2 cables comming from the throttle body. one is the foot pedal the other leads to the cruise control module. That is it! The cruise control unit is located inside the left front fender. You have to remove the wheel and wheel well liner to access it.

start by having the battery checked. If the battery is good, then check the starter relay. If this is bad, repalce the starter. Also check battery connections. Sometimes they can seem tight but just aren't. Take them off the battery terminals and clean them. This will also stop your batter from charging.

Usually to the motor housing. Might be OK hooked to the door frame too. Kinda whatever works.

Smoking all the time is probably the piston rings. Smoking when you first start it is probably the valve seals. Smoke may be coolant and not oil which would mean a head gasket, cracked head or block.

What color smoke makes a difference. Black smoke, to much fuel (flooding). Blue smoke, engine oil. White smoke, engine coolant.

If the antenna is stuck up, push it down as far as you can. Then pull back the carpet panel inside the trunk. Take off the wiring plug. You will need a flat screwdriver to push the tabs in on the connector to unplug it. Unbolt and unscrew the unit off of the bracket. Once it is loose, you can pull it through the rubber grommet on the car. If the antenna is too long to be able to pull the unit through into the trunk, just cut the antenna off. Your replacing it anyway.

Good luck!

Has been measured up to 190mph with the Z06 measured up to 198mph.

up to 220 is design , fuel savings. thermo will be a 190 but normal in summer is up to 220. not worried about fuel try a 160 but aux or main elec fan may still not come on until about 220. Also oil pressure can start out at 50 but when hot drop down to 15 with newer oils like the 0W30 or 5W30. normal. engine shuts off at 3 psi or less to protect.

If you don't know much about electrical wring, you probbaly should have someone qualified do it, but if you do, here are couple of different ways depending on the setup you have. POWER SHOULD BE OFF TO ALL CIRCUITS WHILE YOU ARE WORKING, ACCEPT WHEN YOU ARE TESTING FOR HOT WIRES. 1. I am assuming that the switch is single pole (has on/off printed on it. You will first have to determine if there is a hot/neutral, and a ground wire in the junction box (usually white/black(or red)/and bare wire). If there is not, this switch box does not have power to it, and is only a bypass for power coming from another powered junction box. You can also tell if this is how it is wired, if all the wires in the box were going to the switch, or if there is a white wire which has been painted black. If any of these conditions apply, you will have to actually have to run a power wire to this particular junction box. This would be worst case scenario. 2. If there is a hot,neutral,and a ground, than the process is fairly easy. All you need to do is determine which one of the (2) black wires which are going to the swith is the hot wire, and which is the switched wire. You can do this by testing each of the two wires on the switch with the switch in the off position put one wire from the tester on the white wires which are tied together, and the other wire on the black wire on the switch. You will only get a read from one of the wires, that is the hot one this wire should go to the hot side (bronze color) of the new plug, and you will have to run a single white wire from the bundle of white wires to the neutral side (silver color)on the new plug. The bare wire should get attached to the green screw on the new plug. This will either be at the top or the bottom of the silver side of the plug. The plug will now work, and can be installed in the box with a new cover plate. The only matter remaining is if you want whatever the old swith controlled to always be hot, or always be dead. (since you have no switch any more, it will have to be one or another). If you want it hot, attached the remaining black wire to the bronze side of the new plug. If you want it dead, just cap it and put some tape around it and close up everything.

The fastest Corvette is either the new 2009 ZR-1or the 1969 ZL-1 427. Both are extremely fast and powerful cars.

It is built into the alternator.

If the side panel is completely unmovable you can remove the petrol tank trace the main positive cable and using an adapter (8mm male spade connector) connect the positive charging cable into there. The negative charging cable can be connected to the frame or engine. you should be able to reach the negative cable connection point on the rear of the engine. alternatively fix the side panel and replace the fasteners and chase the threads so its easier to get off next time.

turn over engine with gas line to carbs disconnected fuel should flow from line.if not either no gas or pump not working

111,3000