It is on the passenger side of the dashboard.When you open the door you will be able to see it.
Very well until something breaks. Then it is usually replaced by regular shock absorbers, because it is too expensive to repair for the slight advantage of the driver being able to adjust the ride quality.
The shock absorber oil has fine metalic particles in it, which when subjected to varying a magnetic field, changes the viscosity of the oil. There by stiffening, or softening the ride as determined by the position of a console mounted switch by which the driver can choose any one of three settings. Firmest to softest.
That's the short explination.
The 1998 Corvette is a C5 generation Corvette (1997-2004) and uses a rear-mounted transaxle configuration with a torque tube connecting the engine to the transaxle. This design necessitated a two-tank fuel tank arrangement. Each of the two 9.2 gallon tanks hang like a saddle just behind the rear passenger-compartment bulkhead. The total fuel capacity is 19 gallons, the extra capacity being contained in the filler neck and equalizer tube.
sounds like a poor ground.
They had power steering. The boxes are the same. What's different is what hole the tie rod ends are installed in on the arms bolted to the spindle assembly.
No sealants are necessary. Worst case scenario, you would use hi-temp.
Mopar (Chrysler dealer parts departments ) stock a RTV made especially for transmission pan sealing. It is used alone ( no gasket ) on certain Chrysler transmissions. FWD in cars and vans mainly.
yes a 71 72 corvette color
There is no such thing as a 1927 Corvette.
LOL, hope you didn't buy one.
It really depends on your model of Corvette. My experience is with C4's (1984 - 1996), specifically my 1988 35th Anniversary. When I purchased this car I was getting 10.8 - 11.2 mpg in the city and about 15 mpg highway.
Current Modifications are...
- Replaced stock filter with K&N Filter
- Replaced Stock power Coupler with Aftermarket (Rippled to Smooth)
- Installed Airfoil on Throttlebody Intake
- Installed Air Intake Temperature Sensor Relocation Kit (Pre 1989)
My fuel logs for last year of driving (1300 miles) shows that I am getting 16.3 mpg city and up to 25 mpg highway (@60 MPH, flat), 22 MPG Average Highway
I have not changed the Chip, Plugs, Wires, or any other modifications.
Other modifications I plan that will also increase MPG is
- Port/Polish Intake Runners
- Performance High Flow Injectors
- Performance Mass Airflow Sensor (Adjustable)
- Performance Fuel Regulator (Adjust fuel rate)
- Quad Titanium Spark Plugs
- Upgrade all Pullys to Aluminum with better ratio
All this will give you easily about another 100 HP, keep your foot out of it and you can tack on about another 10% MPG increase
The Tail light assembly needs to come off. There are 2 10mm nuts accessable though the two door panels at the rear of the trunk. once those are released, the tail light comes straight out with three guide pins disengaging from sockets in the body. You will then have full access to both stop lights and the turn signal light (2057 type)
Is the mirror pedestal loose at the door skin, or is the bucket loose at the pedestal? The door panel has to come off first. The pedestal nuts can be accessed under the outer seal. If the bucket is loose, the mirror must be removed from the door, two screws are up inside the pedestal. If I remember correctly it should be a T-20 or T-25 torx bit. Have fun!
The same thing happened to me and my mechanic opted for... silicone jelly instead of
a replacement (which i am quite certain is necessary otherwise and perpostourously expensive because its the whole unit... not just some attatchment piece)
plus silicone jelly is pretty elastic so it will turn if needed (but only when it's really needed)
i mean it is glue... but it has worked phenomenally
Better --correct the root cause.
The pedestal is loose because the "press-nutwasher" has come off. There are 2 parts to the mirror assy. The base(bottom section) and the mirror housing. Those 2 pcs are held together by the press nut which grips the post protruding up from the base unit.
The entire assy must be removed from the door .This means the inside door panel is removed first. The (3) 10mm nuts that hold the mirror assy to the door are accessed thru the 2 rubber ports using an extension ratchet.
The wiring harness has 2 clips to disconnect ;then pull the harness from the car carefully with the mirror assy.
The mirror itself is attached to its plastic ABS frame using silicne rubber and the 2 can be separated carefully to gain access to inside of mirror housing. The mirror is curved and expensive so careful.
I cut all 8 color coded wires--no need to cut the 2 black heater wires -they have slide clips. Do not worry--these wire are reattached using inexpensive insulated crimp type butt connectors--keeping faith with the color codes.
Now you can see the post /spring/press nut assembly which need to be reassembled.
If anyone is out there I'll email a pic of the jig I made to press the nut back on the post.
We could also talk it thru--email me first email@example.com
Additional Answer to this >>>>>
If the mirror is loose at the door;
Remove the inner door panel, 2 felt pads holding the door glass in place, and lower the window. You will see 2 nuts that attach the mirror, pry the door glass away from that side and block it back with a piece of wood or such. Tighten nuts.
If the mirror is loose at the attachment from the head to the stalk;
Proceed as above except remove the 2 nuts. Remove the mirror. Inside the stalk you will see 2 screws. Tighten them. That will tighten the head to the stalk. Beyond that you're on your own!
also try to change the oil.
Try disconnecting the batery for 15 minutes. The computer will reset itself. This worked on a '95 Thunderbird.
To reset the oil light, put the key in the ignition and turn to accessory setting (but do not start the car) Push the English/Metric button twice and then push and hold the "Gauges" button. The "Change Oil" light will flash for about 15-20 seconds and then go out. Release the button and turn key off.
When you turn the key back on, the light should be out. If it is not, repeat the above steps.
Try changing the freaking oil!!!!!!!! That might help!!! I'm just saying!!!!!
the library has chilton repair manuals,i just copy the page,pages that i need for .10 cents a copy
I do not know about Chilton books, but the HAYNES manuals DO NOT CONTAIN A VACUUM DIAGRAM!!!!!
The firing order is 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2. The left bank is 1,3,5,7 and the right bank is 2,4,6,8. The distributor turns clockwise.
Google is a great place to start, and it's free.
It's basically the same procedure as the rest of the belts. Depending upon which belt you're changing, you'll have to loosen the tension on and remove one or more of the other belts. Plan on loosening one or more, depending if your car has them: alternator, smog pump, a/c compressor and/or power steering pump.
The alternator loosens from the top, as does the a/c compressor. The power steering pump loosens from the front, as does the smog pump, if I'm not mistaken. 1/2" or 7/16" wrench/socket. Please correct me if I'm wrong on these.
Best of luck! -ku2002
The turn signal switch has a plug mounted on the steering column near the pedals. There are metal terminal ends crimped to the wires. Sometimes corrosion is a factor, or the terminal ends work apart. I used to back pin the plugs with my meter to check for continuity across the plug.
Yes, most likely. There's a chance that it is something mechanical, but that's a slim chance and only if they have not been used in a LONG time.
If you're not familiar with these problems, I suggest chasing the vacuum lines to listen for a hissing sound either underhood or under dashboard. Remember that the headlight switch actually is an electrical switch AND vacuum valve in-one. Additionally, there is a little black knob (backup vacuum valve) directly under the dashboard in the event that the headlight switch valve doesn't raise the lights. If neither one raises them then you have either a leak or stuck diaphragm. Good luck! -ku2002
You can buy a vacuum troubleshooting guide from Zip Corvette to help you fix the issue.
I fixed it. There are rubber devices called witches hats that go on the vacuum canisters next to the headlights. You can either change the witches hats (quite a job) or just have the vacuum canisters you can get at Ecklers.
Or you can get them at Zip and save some money, here is a link to the headlight components http://www.zip-corvette.com/Zip/dept.asp?dept_id=887where is the diaphragm located on my 1981 Corvette?
First of all YOU DONT. second of all are you trying to steal it lol try corvette fever magazine they sell all bypass modules from vats to trans 1 to 4 skip module try corvettefever.com
Disconnect the battery for about 5 minutes then hook it back up.
There are 4 bolts, 2 in front & 2 in back. You need the tool to remove the bolts.
Yes you can. I purchased a rebuilt set from Davie's corvettes parts and accessories in 2004. They cost me about $400.00. The old pullies are removed from under the seats and from behind the shoulders of the driver and passenger seats. The car will have manufactured holes in the body to insert the bolts through. Good luck Correct. They're available from almost any Corvette specialty supplier, not just Davie's. I would NOT recommend a used set, EVER, since you really don't know exactly what kind of shape the mechanisms are in. -ku2002 1976 Corvettes came from the factory with shoulder belts, FYI. Anyhow your old ones can be restored to factory new condition by a company called SSnake Oyl. --Dave.
$3,176 base price and $5,548 maximum price possible with options (but without taxes).
its very simple just take the gas door off and remove the 8 10mm bolts holding the sending unit in remove fuel lines and sending unit takes about 3o min
1) disconnect neg - on battery
2) remove gas door, remove the 3 lines (gas/vent), disconnect power feed.
3) remove the 8 10mm bolts
4) replace pump as we as the pre-mesh filter (pump purchase does not include filter)
5) reinstall - steps 3, 2, 1
Average cost for Fuel Pump, $150 Cdn.
Cure: I sprayed lots of ether (or degreaser or carburetor cleaner), using that little red tube, into the latch unit. This rinses off the old sticky dirty dried out lube. Then I sprayed in a little lube like WD40. Next "flick" the outside handle a few times. Next use the key to move the lock back and forth. It took a couple of tries but the door works fine now.
same m8 mine waz da same n i did wot u did n it work ed trust him
Yes. Most wheels are about 22 inches in diameter. So for the sake of this answer, let's assume you have 22 inch wheels on the coupe. The rim can take up as much or as little of that 22inches as you want. But since it's a coupe and your wheel wells are tight, you can't exceed the stock diameter of the rims and wheels by much without affecting the steering, handling, etc.
Therefore, as you increase the size of the rim, you decrease the size of the sidewall of the tires. If you decrease the size of the rim, you increase the size of the sidewall of the tires. Make sense?
Get some rims that match the lug bolt pattern and put on the recommended tires. Given that it's a Corvette Coupe, your insurance will rise considerably with the addition of any after-market parts.
Give me food and I will live give me water and I will die what am I?
Asked By Wiki User
What is the biggest number you can make using the digits 641?
Asked By Wiki User
Why is TikTok getting banned in the US?
Asked By Amie Smitham
What is exponet of 7x10x10x10x10?
Asked By Wiki User
How do you gain access to the third brake light on a 1989 Corvette Coupe to change the bulbs?
Asked By Wiki User
Have early 86 corvette on the power assist booster there a 2 vacuum lines the big one on top goes to the manifold can anyone tell you where the bottom one goes?
Asked By Wiki User
Where can you find a color code for a 1977 Pontiac leman?
Asked By Wiki User
How air goes in 1998 corvette tires?
Asked By Wiki User
Copyright © 2020 Multiply Media, LLC. All Rights Reserved. The material on this site can not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with prior written permission of Multiply.