You disconnect the hoses. Then remove the heater core cover from the engine compartment (oblong black thing bolted to the firewall on your left hand side, looking in). Wrestle that off and extract the heater core...swap out your new core and replace it all. It is that easy. I put in a coolant flush kit while I had it apart...flush your coolant system every few months for nothing. Good luck
Okay, I just did this, and it was not fun. I did not have to replace my regulator, just the power window motor. It can be done with the regulator still inside the door.
First, remove the door panel, armrest, etc. Pop out the power lock, and window switches.
Once that's done, remove the 2 bolts that hold the rear run channel for the window. They are silver, and scribe around them to line them up later on.
Remove the power supply for the motor, and the 2 bolts, and 2 nuts that hold the regulator to the door.
Remove the inside, and outside seal strips that are at the base of the window when its closed. Do this with the window all the way down, it is easier. Try not to bend them too much. They are held in by 4 spring clips each.
Now the window can be slopped around insode the door a bit. The goal here is to move the regulator around until you can get the 2 plastic wheels on the regulator out of the channel at the bottom of the window. Once you have done that, you can raise the window by hand out of your way. Make sure you have a clamp, or someway to secure the window so it does not fall down by itself.
Now you can lift up on the regultor, and move it towards the front of the van to expose the 3 black bolts that hold the motor to the regulator.
drill a hole in the gold plate beside the spring. then through that hole, run a self tapping screw into the gear. Make sure its not too close to the edge of the gear.... once that is fdone, go ahead and remove those 3 bolts, and take out the motor.
You will have to swap the bracket from your old motor to the new one. Rebuilt ones come with the screws to put the 2 together, but you may have to drill the rivits out to get the backet off the old motor...
Once the bracket is installed to the new motor, swap some grease off the old motor to the gear on the new one, and then start the reassembly. The hardest part of the reasssembly is realigning the window to get the 2 plastic wheels on the regulator back into the channel at the bottom of the window......try, and they try again..... I go the front one in first, then usedt he motor to raise the regulator almost to the top, and go the rear wheel into the hole in the center of the channel.....
Don't forget to remove the self tapping screw before trying to move the regulaotr....I did, and it sheared off that screw....no harm no foul, but it could have caused an issue....
Have fun, and don't rush.....its a crappy job...
Pull the valance off the bottom of the wind shield.
GMC VANDURA FUEL PUMP REPLACEMENT (CAB AND CHASSIS/WITH BOX) (((*on GMC Vandura cab and chassis box vans remember that most boxes are aftermarket so my assembly may very from yours slightly to dramatically always consult other sources before attempting any DIY projects*)))
(((*Please use caution and take safety precautions whenever performing any DIY mechanic work.*)))
I'm a do it yourselfer, I've always done my own oil changes and basic maintenance, but never something this big. I'm 24 and my family business has a GMC 3500 V8, which two years ago had a 1991 350 LT1 Caprice engine changed out from a previously blown out motor (makes no difference to the tank). Anyways one day the engine began having problems in hesitation after it got warmed up (10-15 min in town driving), It would occasionally not accelerate. When you would let off the accelerator no problem but push again and it hesitated. It was pretty much identified as fuel pump so, on a budget I was assigned to learn to fix the problem and be paid a minimal amount for my work.
The pump cost around $40.00 and I bought some new hose for the main fuel entry line ($13.25 a foot, ouch), and the strainer sock for the pump around $5.00 I studied a site picture tour for ideas http://www.automedia.com/GM/Gas/Tank/Replacement/a/res20011001ft/1 This was the closest site I could find with pictures similar to what I needed. Then I went to work. Try and run the tank very low on gas if applicable, if not try and siphon the tank dry (I didnï¿½t have much luck siphoning.)
1# I first removed the fuel pump fuse (under the drivers seat near brake/gas pedals) to ensure no sparks, and removed the negative terminal post on the battery to be safe. Following that up with locating the tank underneath the truck towards the back centered between the tires (itï¿½s a big one)
2# I disconnected the main entry line (sending line), and the relay line that connects at the filler hose (where you put in the gas at a gas station). This later seemed unnecessary because the main pieces are near the gas tank (one a neck on the tank another a relay line next to it that went above the tank.
3# I placed two jack stands underneath the tank to support it while I loosened and eventually removed the nuts from the strapping bolts. After the bolts were removed I removed the bracing straps (you might want to replace these, a brittle brace is dangerous). I then had another person help me remove the jacks and slowly lower the tank down. Located on top of the tank should be the top assembly for the fuel pump and floater with three fuel lines, an electrical line and a lock ring on the top. From there I marked each line 1, 2, and 3 before removing them from the tank. I disconnected the electrical line as well. (**be careful depending on who put in that electrical work they may not have left much slack**, which was my case, if so follow 3B attachment)
4# I removed the tank from underneath the truck by carefully lifting and sliding it out from under the chassis. Once out I had to remove the clamping ring on top of the fuel pump,(located on top of the gas tank)(be sure to clean this area before removing pump)I found a hammer and flathead screwdriver gently tapped against the tines of the locking ring in a counter clockwise motion worked. I gently removed the fuel pump and floater arm careful not to bend it (if applicable).
5# I studied the pump and looked at my replacement pump and assembly to understand how it all went together (you gotta figure that out, because there are many types, mine did not need the electrical assembly, but I replaced everything else)
6# I removed the old pump, put the new pump together and attached it to the pump assembly.
7# I placed the pump/floater assembly back in the tank, (check if the tank is dirty, couldnï¿½t hurt to clean it out if it is) replaced the seal ring(new one, should come with the pump) and put the locking ring back in place (clockwise turn to tighten back down)
8# I pulled the tank back under the truck and connected all marked hoses and re-ran the electrical connector back through the passage holes and connected it. I replaced all the hoses I wanted replaced, and made sure I had all my fasteners and bolts.
9# I took the hooks for the straps (which are just "J" bolts) and removed them from their holes on the frame, and re-attached the small assembly on the braces, but donï¿½t thread them up more than a third of the way (this is much easier in putting on the braces. It has less tension on it.)
10# I slowly lift up (with another persons help) and place the tank back up and reconnect the main sending line. Then with another persons help fit the tank back into place (this was difficult for me) and put the j bolts back in place in the holes in the frame(as I mentioned before about 1/3 way threaded was enough slack for me).
11#I then had to SLOWLY tighten the braces back up while I placed force against the tank to tighten it as best I could back against the frame. I reconnected the relay line which had its detachment/reconnect area next to/above the tank
12# I made sure everything was connected well and secure. I replaced the battery terminal post, then and fuse to the fuel pump.
13# (key in ignition) After two or three times of pumping and turning on the ignition my truck started up with a healthy roar (Vanduraï¿½s donï¿½t purr). Make sure to keep an eye out for leaks and run it around the block a couple of times to make sure itï¿½s warmed up and you should be good to go, check for leaks for the next few days, and thatï¿½s it hope I could help people out there because before this I couldnï¿½t find I a single page that could help me with even remotely close to this and I didnï¿½t have access to a Chilton/Haynes manual either.
14# If you have comments to add feel free or if I could be corrected by all means Iï¿½m a novice so any extra knowledge is appreciated.Answerforgot I used a crescent wrench for the straps and a crescent wrench and pair of plyers to remove the fuel lines from the tope of the tank leading to the fuel tank.
1500=half ton 2500=3 quarter ton 3500=1 ton
I have a Vandura 2500, it means a half ton with a three quarter ton rating, stronger rear springs, lower rear end ratio,& bigger engine....
I do believe that the 1500 has a shorter body than the 2500 and 3500. Also engine sizes, I believe that the 1500 typically comes with a straight 6, the 2500 with a 350 v8 and the 3500 with either a 7.4v8 or a diesel.
*My 93' G2500 vandura has a 1 ton frame w/ 3/4 ton brakes.*
Next to the flux capaciter, in models 80-88 Ninety and up it's under the gas tank.
Before starting, note that on the side of the van to the right of the heater, there is a vent with a vacuum actuator. This thing gets in the way and it turned out mine didn't do anything, at least after the job. I don't think it ever did. Suggest you fire up your engine and play with the heater controls while you watch the vent and see if it works. If not, you might want to leave its actuator off when you put the heater back in.
I found a set of small 1/4 inch drive sockets with extensions and a screwdriver type driver most helpful.
- On the doghouse hatch, 2 screws behind cigaret lighter door, two large screws at bottom front, lift cupholder part off.
- two bolts at bottom left & right, clamps on either side to remove doghouse cover
- disconnect battery
- 3 bolts under front edge on the right (10 mm), 4 on left side
- 3 screws in steering wheel undercover
- 7 screws top of dash near windshield
- 1 screw behind and below the radio
- remove 2 big bolts to allow the steering wheel to rotate down and let the dashboard move back a little.
- support right side up and back with a plank about 2 feet long
- take pictures of everything
- remove 4 bolts on extreme left and right of metal base that held the dashboard, lift it up an inch so black plastic duct under it can be pulled back slightly
- hoses to side window defroster vents: slip screwdriver into front of vent, pry out. Easy to twist hose off when vent is free.
- I was afraid to unhook the electrical cables going to the instrument panel, but I did unhook all the wires going to the radio, which allowed the instrument panel to move out a lot further on the heater side.
- support bar in front - 2 bolts on right side, 2 on left from inside insulation of doghouse, 3 vacuum lines to actuators to remove and remember.
- bolt into firewall behind and below heater
- duct on left side of heater - 2 screws at top
- temp adjust cable going to right side of heater - I pulled the nut-like holder off and it went back on later with no trouble.
- large duct going over the doghouse hump has big 7/16" bolt in part coming out to driver's side
- try to remove duct on heater right side (one screw): top slides out of lip, rotate up high to get out past actuator for vent in side of van. Carefully remember how you did it; very hard to get back in. If you don't get it, it will come out with the heater.
Under the hood
- remove rad overflow tank, air cleaner inlet duct to make room to work
- undo the main hose to the bottom of the radiator to let a pail of coolant out.
- locate air conditioner parts, connected with metal pipes and LEAVE THEM ALONE.
- the large black plastic air conditioner evaporator between the heater fan at extreme left and the engine is also left in place, but the 3 nuts holding the heater to the firewall are located at the upper left, upper right and lower right of this evaporator.
The nuts were invisible on my van because they were covered with black silicone gunk. The lower right one is hard to reach, behind a big cylinder of the air conditioning system. I had to use a 7/16 open end wrench on it. Other two no problem with socket extension.
- inlet and outlet heater hoses in same location as lower right nut must be removed from heater end. Note location and orientation of clamps. The hoses connect to the vacuum controlled valve that lets water flow into the heater core hoses when heat is turned on, bypass it when not. This valve with its 4 hose connectors is located under the big AC cylinder, but it is held only by the hoses.
pull heater out
- Study the ducts still connected to the heater. I freed the big defrost on by lifting it up half an inch. The heater duct going over to the driver's side shifted left a half an inch with some encouragement.
- I had lots of trouble pulling the heater out because the threads of the 3 bolts going through to the engine side caught on the firewall. I had a helper push on them with a broom handle while I wiggled the heater.
- Just a few screws in the heater to open it and remove the core.
- Reverse the process!
- The duct on the right side of the heater was a huge problem for me. I gave up and decided I would kludge something together to replace it. My 82 year old mechanic friend came over and got it in in an hour. He said he just "lifted it up high". Had I known the vent on the outside wall didn't work, I would have taken its actuator off to leave lots of room for the duct.
- I had trouble with the hoses on the engine side. The lower hose to the heater core puckered or bent and wouldn't go on properly. No problem when I got a new piece of hose.
- Surprisingly little trouble getting the dashboard back in place.
- Shortly after the reassembly, coolant began leaking from the area of the vacuum controlled valve connected to the heater core hoses. I finally unhooked all 4 hoses and took the thing out. We plugged three of the openings with fingers, connected the bottom (inlet) to a water hose and when the valve was pushed open with a finger, water squirted out the tiny hole where the actuator push rod goes in. Ordered a new one, $25.
If the pictures don't show, email me harvey at softwarespirit.com.
*My 93' Vandura has a 5.7*
I have an 89 G 20 and the computer is under the drivers seat. Try following the big bunch of wires at the back of the engine and see if they go there. My 1984 G20 has it under the driver's seat. 1983 may be the same.
It's pretty easy, actually. Just replaced mine, took about a half hour total. Plenty of room underneath the van to work. You have two main bolts holding the starter in. Pull them both, disconnect the wires from the solendoid. Put the new motor in, making sure the splines mesh up. If fitted correctly, the bolts will go right back in easily. Turn key, you're good to go.
It takes one O2 sensor available at any parts store. There is a special tool that has a slot so you can remove the sensor and replace with the new. There is a factory connector. 5 minute job. Sensor sits on top of pipe just ahead of catalytic converter.
It seems to happen more when the engine is hot. I can start it up cold and drive it for 30 miles with no problem. I will then let it sit for 10 minutes. When I start it back up and drive it again, it sputters and jerks every second for about 30 seconds, then drives fine for awhile, then jerks again.
I have replaced spark plug wires and plugs, timing belt. HELP!AnswerMy van was doing the sputter thing all the time. I replaced plugs, cap, rotor, pcv valve and fuel filter (not pump). My fuel filter was on the passenger side about 2/3 back from front tucked up in a cavity.
*It sounds exactly like a fuel pump* If it feels like it's running out of gas going up hill or the battery dies... it is a bad fuel pump+filter.
connects to throttle body(port C )
Drivers side near the rear of the transmission. Just a side note, I changed mine because my speedo stopped working. It was not the problem. I replaced the speedo cluster from a junk yard from a 1993 model. I had to change the panel surrounding it, but it looks better and the speedo now works! I THINK if the speed sensor is bad, then you would have shifting problems. Also, I THINK the speedometers from that year/style was not good. Every cluster from the junkyards were removed, forcing me to take a chance at a newer model to see if it would work. And I am glad I did - plugged right in!
Your dip stick tube is your fill tube for your transmission . Make sure your transmission oil is at opperating temp before servicing some instructions are written on the dip stick , Use a small funnel , Add a little at a time (cup). Use the proper fluid , check regularly
If it a Rochester carberator, there is no mixture adjustment. That is an internal setting done when the carburetor was put together or at the time of rebuilding. The only adjustments you can make is to the idle and choke
I have a 93' 2500 vandura and It failed smog and I advanced the Timing a tiny bit and it passed....yaaaaay
My thought is that 8 lugs indicate that you have 3/4 ton or possibly 1 ton wheels and axles while 5 lugs indicates that the wheels and axles are 1/2 ton variety.
Your best bet is to just go to the library, and get the book there i have a 1990 and it was a pain. Had to remove the shard,fan,belt. Not alot of room to work with so when i was ready to rebolt it back up i used a steel rod to hold one side in place to bolt it back together. and for the shard that covers the fan i cut mine in half and put 2 bolts to reconnect it reason being is if i have to take it off again wont be a pain to get out. Works great
This happened to my Ford Taurus SHO. I couldn't get it out for nothing. I ended up just leaving it in and next time I drove it and parked I shut it off, I instinctively pulled on it and it came right out. Other than that, I don't know what you could do.
I can't speak for the 1990, but on my 1989 it's on the passenger side near the rear axle strapped to the underside of the frame, it's a large cylinder (about 3" diameter) and pretty easy to spot and remove.
I've found no other way but to remove the doghouse and get it from there, but check the breather filter while you have the thing apart and replace it too. If the filter is not that old you can reach in from the engine area and remove the cover and turn the filter a quarter turn instead of replacing
4.1 liter V6
If you are qualified to service the A/C system, then you know how. If you are not qualified, then you should take it to a local service shop for repairs. Refrigerant can be dangerous if mishandled.
You can also now buy recharge kits at Canadian tire and do it yourself, the refrigerant is now ozone free so it's no longer dangerous. Just follow the instructions on the kit, it's pretty easy
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