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Mine was found on the stearing column near the brake pedal. Changing it did not solve my problem. Neither brake light in the fenders work. The brake light on the cab works. The courtesy lights do not work when I open the doors. The courtesy lights work when I use the remote to unlock the doors. We checked all fuses, lights. They are all good. My Chevy dealer has never heard of this problem but was willing to check it for a hefty fee.

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Check for a loose wire connection on the sides of the outlet that you plug into that causes the other two outlets to stop working. Are the screws tight? There will probably be two wires on each side, one will be the feed coming to that oulet and the other one will feed to the other outlets. Also a possible loose connection in the box that the outlet is mounted in, such as a loose or broken wire in a wire nut. Remember to shut off the power to this circuit while working on it. I hope this will help. Polarity on the third outlet could be reversed. It will blow the circuit. Is it possibly current drain i.e are there too many outlets and is the appliance something that uses a lot of current? This can be discovered by reading the manual. If lets say the junction box or fuse box had been replaced by a solid wire then this would allow more current to flow. If this wire(fuse replaced) is supplying the three outlets and a short circuit is in the appliance. The first answer is correct. The other two may be true statements, but they do not address this question.

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On the 4-cylinder 2.0, the thermostat is located just below the water pump and above the power steering pump. To access it, you must remove the power steering pump and bracket. Leave the pump connected to the bracket. There is no need to separate them. Remove the power steering pump & bracket by first removing the belt from below. Then remove the bolt that holds the top portion of the power steering pump bracket onto the bracket that holds the water pump, A/C compressor, and alternator. It is a bit difficult to tell which bolt to remove. It is the 13mm bolt, not the 17mm. Then remove the two bolts that hold the power steering pump bracket onto the engine block. I would also remove the clamp that holds the power steering pump hoses located near the center of the car. You can leave the hoses connected and let the pump hang if you are careful. Cover the pump with a bag so that you don't get coolant on it. Remove the two bolts holding the thermostat housing in place. Make sure you have a large plastic container to catch the coolant. I wish new cars had drain plugs like the old cars. Coolant splatters everywhere. Pull the thermostat & O ring using pliers. Clean the surface and replace the thermostat and the O ring. You may have to loosen the nuts holding the power steering adjustment bracket to get the power steering pump back in place.

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If your seat heater isn't working it's likely the relay which is located underneath the seat mine is also broken and the part is almost $100 fromt he dealership to replace - I have not done so. :-)

you could check out a local junkyard though for a totaled car that still has them

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Bring to a shop that has an ABS scanner to determine the problem

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The starter is just a DC motor so the motor gets dirty inside or the armature and brushes wear. If the battery is good and yet you just hear a click or nothing or even the starter spinning, the next most likely cause is the starter motor. They are cheap to replace yourself, though the job is a little tight. See wikianswer on 1993 Ford Escort for the process.

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1-Go behind rear seat and remove vinyle and cardboard covering.2-Locate the motor/hydrolic fluid reservoir (if on knees in rear seat facing rear window will be on right side).3-On right side of motor unit will be a rubber stopper, remove this and with a large plastic syringe, remove hydrolic fluid.4-Replace rubber stopper and the convertible top can then be operated manually.Remember, if you want to operate top electrically again, fluid must be replaced.

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I replaced two leaking lines. I bought high pressure 1/8" ID hose online (several sites have it). Each line is individually removable. At the pump end, each pair of lines is held in the pump body by a star-head screw. Remove the screw and just pull out the fitting.

End fittings can be re-used by carefully cutting around the crimped area about 1/8" from the end and grinding it flat. It will pull off, exposing the hose underneath. Carefuliy, without damaging the barbs, cut the old hose off. Push the barb into the new hose. If you can find small hose clamps (not the type with a worm screw, but one with a nut & bolt which applies a clamping force evenly over the whole circumference) use these to secure the end. If not, you can use 18 ga. steel wire, wrapped twice around the hose and twisted like a twist tie. Put three or four of these twist wires around the new hose over the barb area.

Careful with the little O rings in the fittings while doing all this. Total cost to replace all lines is about $30 + 3 hours work.

Good luck!

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It uses phosphate free antifreeze to which is an anti corrosive.

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Unscrew the bulb from the back of the light assy. If you have to you may need to remove it from the vehicle.

Remove head light assembly(2 screws) Easy access to bulb/socket.

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on the passenger side there is a fuse cover on the floor, take off the panel and look at the back, find power window fuse, take it out, replace with new one

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It is better to dye the top rather than painting. Otherwise cripping and cracking will occur. Also it is better to paint from a lighter color to dark (ex. white top to black).

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Hi!

First you need to get a harmonic balancer puller. This pulley is located on the bottom of engine. Remove the tire and plastic so you can see it. Get a socket that fits the bolt I would recommend using a impact gun to get the bolt out. After its out pull the pulley and the sensor is located behind it . Two bolts hold the bugger on , but it's set on a dowel so you may have to fiddle with it to get it off. Hope this helps!

Jim

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Open the hood. Locate the back of the first headlamp. Gently slide back the rubber "boot" around the wire feed-through. Gently remove the wire connectors. You should see 2 wire clips that hold in the light bulb; unclip them. Remove the bulb.

To install new bulbs, reverse the procedure, but note the following: - the bulbs are "keyed" so that they only fit into the socket one way; rotate the bulb until it is properly seated in the socket. - the wire connector is also keyed. Make sure you get it properly aligned before you push it on. - the space behind the passenger's side headlamp is limited. It helps to remove the air cowling so you can reach the parts. Dont drop any parts.

good luck.

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Throttle position sensor

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You must have the reset pin and enter it through the radio panel as per your owners manual. If you don't have the PIN you can get it from your VW dealers service dept. You must have the serial number of the radio (located on the top of the radio and must remove the radio to find the number). If that still doesn't work, try disconnecting the batery again for about an hour, reconnect and start over again with the PIN. As with any electronics sometimes it takes a complete "hard start" to rectify the problem. If you still have the problem, consult your VW service dept.

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Open the hood and on the drivers side of the engine where the upper coolant hose for the radiator routes to the engine . there is a plastic flange or housing, in that housing the coolnat temp sensor is located .

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tire off, brakes off, tie rod off, disconnect strut, and a few holding bolts. axle will slide out with a little bang from a hammer or a little pull if your lucky

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There should be a plug adapter spot right under the steering wheel and dash assembly, should just plug right in... i have a 96 and i work at O'Reillys auto parts, we have a code reader that reads all nissans from 88 to current....so if is the right code reader it should just install as i said above hope that helps a little

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go to an auto parts store and buy a recharge kit, and follow the instructions

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The Chilton for the 1999 Saturn lists it on top of the Transaxle. Since this book also covers repair for the older SC1 models, it should be in the same place.

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one is located at the thermostat housing. the other is in the bottom of the radiator.

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The lock and key model, though popular, is outdated and not entirely accurate. Regardless, it was used because it provides a simple visual analogy to imagine the enzyme (the enzyme, or key, simply inserts itself into the lock, the molecule to be broken down by the enzyme [known as a substrate]). The more accurate model is now the "Induced fit model", because enyzmes and substrates (the chemicals they act upon) are not naturally able to fit into each other. Instead, each substance changes its shape a little to accomodate the other.

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Its on a part called the "gooseneck". follow the upper radiator hose to the engine. It hooks to the gooseneck which houses the thermostat. The sensor will have a wired plug hooked to the top. This is an incorrect answer above. The temp sensor is in the driver's side head,between #1 & 3 cylinders. There is one green wire going to it.