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Your going to need several to remove the front and back seats plus the console to change out the carpeting.

To remove the front seats is easy:

Look under the seats and disconnect the weight sensor/seatbelt sensor/heated seat hookup if it's there.

Slide the seat all the way forward, and using a flathead screwdriver pop up the plastic covers on the back of the seat on the floor. From there use a wrench of some kind to remove both bolts holding the seat down, then just lift up and tilt forward to remove the seat.

To remove the back seat:

Pop the trunk and pull the seat releases on the top of the trunk. Pull the seatbacks down and use a flathead screwdriver to push the outer latches of the seats off while lifting up on the ends and the seats will pop out. In order to get the seat. Look toward the black rail in the back and you should see a small metal wire under the black rail. Just push down really hard and pull back and the it should pop out. Do the same to the other side, and then just ease the seat out of the spot.

To remove the center console:

Twist the base of the shift knob until it comes off the shift ball. Pull on the shift ball to remove it. In the front of the shift boot there is a tab you can squeeze back to lift up and remove the boot. Pull the ebrake up and put a screwdriver in the tabbie to let the cover off that. Pull up on the rear cup holder, and unsnap the three console pieces that fit on the top. Use a socket or wrench to remove the ebrake and one of the body control modules right there, and the two tiny black screws on the sides of the console. Remove anything else and lift up the center console. Also the cigarette lighters are going to need to be disconnected as well.

From there pull the carpet out and replace, enjoy!

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try a locksmith.

There should be a small steel cable somewhere in the trunk or behind the seats (can't remember now) that allows you to release the trunk from inside the car. You have to be able to get into the car...the idea is that you can pop the trunk open if your battery dies.

The emergency deck lid release mechanism on the C5 generation is a small cable terminating in a metal ferrule that is tucked between the layers of carpet in the rear of the luggage compartment.

The rear deck may also be released remotely with a button on the left side of the steering column.

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A quick fix until you have about $300 to fix it is to turn the key to the ON position for 10 minutes, and when the theft system light stops blinking you can start it right up.

You can also just slowly turn the key to the on position (not accessory or start), shift the transmission into neutral (you have to step on the break first) and then start it. This won't work if you have tried to start it and the THEFT light is flashing, see the above answer.

the quick fix is to just wait ten minutes for the theft deterant to cut off, the problem isn't realy the ignition but the system itself and its more like 600 hundred to fix at the dealership

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Take all the other keys off your keyring, the weight of the other keys maybe causing the ignition key to be unreadable.also it depends on what is wrong with the system. if it the anti-theft system it may be very pricy, but if it is the ignition lock cylinder than it will cost you about $100 for the new lock cylinder and several hours of labor if you are very good at working with cars.

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Check for frayed or burnt wires ... that's what it sounds like. Follow the wires from your lights to the CPU or battery on the car and if there is no bad wires, it could be a fuse problem.

A good first place to start would be checking the plug, since plugs can be replaced the cheapest.

A common failure on Dodge Dakotas is the headlight switch - about $20 at a discount auto parts store and pretty easy to replace

Also be sure the bulbs are good.

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how old is car and what colour is the exterior of the roof and have u tryed duck tape i can get it in various colours

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see your dealer about a recall for flasher

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most cars will last a very long time if the maintenance schedule is followed. However some cars are beter than others this vw is suspect. The best way to put your mind at rest is to look around, how many do you still see on the road or for sell. If there are not many are cruising around you have your answer.

Some Vehicles like the Cabriolet are seen near the coast line where the weather is best for driving with the top down. Don't get discouraged if there are few in your area.

VeeDub's have always been built well and last a long time. The engines can easily do 200,000 mile if they have been maintained well. Always open the bonnet and look if it has been cleaned as they could be trying to hide something. Touch the top of the engine and check that its cold so you can start it and see if blue/white smoke comes out the back. If its hot means they might be trying to hide something again. If the cabrio has a clipper kit always try and have a look around the joins were the kit fits the body as it can hold water and rust. Check the tops of the wings because if it doesnt have a underwing shield the water just gets up there and rust. Always check the lines of the car ie. by looking down the sides by standing at the front or back. Check to see if all the panels flow into one and other. Try by looking down the mording chich gives you a good line along the car. Check to see if the door, bonnet and boot shuts are all about finger thickness apart. Check the crumple zones at the front in the engine bay. Look for welding or if they look as thought they have been crushed and pulled. check the boot to see of any signes of been changed or pulled.

I hope this is helpfull in some way.

Enjoy the sunshine with the roof down as i do When ever it comes out ;0)

Lemm

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According to my Toyota dealer the answer is yes. That is why I have a 2005 XLE on order (I was waiting for 2 power front seats). However, even though they are now making 2005's in production, I can't find any more information about them.

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You cant. Them come with a automatic belt tensioner and if the belt breaks, you must disassemble the whole pulley system.

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it`s in the distributer. you have to replace the whole thing to fix it, you cant just swap the internals. but if its having idle problems and you checked the check engine light, and it showed camshaft sensor it may be the fuel pump, that's what happend to me and i replaced the whole ignition system till i figured it at.

good luck

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0.70mm +/- 0.10mm or .028 in +/- .004 in Check the Emission Control Information label under the hood for your specific model. No sticker? Well, .028 - .036 will get you in the ballpark. If you buy Bosch W7DC or W7DTC spark plugs (the preferred brand), they are pre-gapped.

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you cannot repair the switch,you must replace and relearn.gmjim

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i think that the back seat comes out of this vehicle.......remove it, and crawl thru to the trunk and pull the release lever

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1) Open trunk 2) Pull out black knob (left side of trunk opening) 3) Leave trunk lid open and pull rear seatback forward with strap (left side of seatback)

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It is better to dye the top rather than painting. Otherwise cripping and cracking will occur. Also it is better to paint from a lighter color to dark (ex. white top to black).

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Open the hood. Locate the back of the first headlamp. Gently slide back the rubber "boot" around the wire feed-through. Gently remove the wire connectors. You should see 2 wire clips that hold in the light bulb; unclip them. Remove the bulb.

To install new bulbs, reverse the procedure, but note the following: - the bulbs are "keyed" so that they only fit into the socket one way; rotate the bulb until it is properly seated in the socket. - the wire connector is also keyed. Make sure you get it properly aligned before you push it on. - the space behind the passenger's side headlamp is limited. It helps to remove the air cowling so you can reach the parts. Dont drop any parts.

good luck.

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Jack and prop up front axle for safety. There may be a board lining the underside of the engine bay which will have to be removed. When you have clear access for for the radiator, search for plug or tap on bottom edge of the radiator, and remove. Water will then drain out. If you can't find the plug/tap, you'll have to remove the rubber hose from the base of the rad to achieve the same effect. Take cap off top of rad, and also the one on the expansion tank located nearby and connected to the rad by a hose.

Replace pug at bottom, mix coolant and fill steadily the radiator. When full, run the engine on tickover for a while to get rid of any airlocks in the system. Replace caps on radiator and expansion tank.

DO NOT DO THIS ON A HOT ENGINE!!

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Sounds like a faulty switch or wiring. You may have a limit switch in the lifting/lowering mechanism, a faulty switch on your dash to control it, or a broken wire between the dash switch and the motor.

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Unbolt them from the floor. First remove the plastic covers (they pop off) then remove the four bolts holding the seat down. There's one on each corner. Disconnect the seat belt sensor wire before pulling the seat out of the car.

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assuming it's a transverse 4 cylinder 2 bolts hold the starter to the tarnny and the engine front mount. They are at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position.

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Yes, but... I'm guessing you're likely trying to install a more powerful engine, such as the VW 16v from the later Scirocco mk2 ('83 to '89, and I think the 16v was available from '85 or '86). The basic blocks are very similiar; on earlier engines most if not all bore, stroke, and bearing dimensions are the same in same years and displacement, allowing one to use Audi connecting rods (stronger the the VW rods), and some other assorted benefits. Your first major complication is the crankshaft. The VW engine and transaxle is oriented transversly, the Audi's is fore and aft. Different transaxle and entirely different clutch mechanism. The Audi's clutch is fairly traditional, but the VW's is sort of reversed, with the pressure plate operated by a push rod running throught the center of the mainshaft. Result of which is; the crankshaft nose is different. You'll either need to machine the VW crank to mate to the Audi clutch assembly, or swap the Audi crank into the VW block. For reference, I strongly recommend Bentley Repair manuals; these are basically factory manuals sold to the public. For more and better information as to your specific intent, I suggest you try to find local VW or Audi clubs, or a really experienced VW/ Audi repair shop. A good mechanic who has been worked on these machines for years can probably help you get targeted on exactly what you will need to acquire to do the exchange. As I said, it's helpful that VW and Audi are so closely related, I'd guess it's a fairly simple process, bearing in mind that "simple" in context means an engine teardown and rebuild, installing the correct fuel injection and engine management components in the Fox, etc. And finally, if you do this swap; don't forget that more power brings other complications. You'll want to upgrade your brakes at least, and probably other suspension gear. Hope this helps, good luck.

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Dealer can provide a replacement. I have been a Locksmith for 22 years, call a Locksmith and they can make a new key. There is also likely a trunk release button in the glove box.

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The front or rear turn signal flasher bulb may be burned out and needs to be replaced. The turn signal flasher my be defective and should be replaced. The hazzard lights have a flasher unit of their own. These are found up in under the dash in the steering column area.

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I just fixed a problem that sounds similar to yours, however my tail lights were working - just the backup lights were not. I checked the bulbs, fuses and wiring, and all were fine. The solution was to replace the backup light switch on the transmission. The switch is on top of the transmission near the clutch cable. There are only 2 bolts attaching it, but they're a little hard to get at. Since the switch is $20 - $40 depending on where you get it, you might want to remove the switch and test it with a continuity tester first to make sure it's the cause of your problem. You can connect the test leads to the switch terminals and operate the 3 different switches on the unit to see if they're working. I think there's 5 terminals, so you might have to do some trial and error to find which terminals go with which switches. Mine was only working partially - I'd push the switch and see continuity at first, but then it would open up again as the switch travelled to what should be its fully-closed position. Just a note: there seem to be 2 different switches available - one with, and one without, an "upshift indicator" function. My dashboard has the upshift LED indicator on it, so I purchased the appropriate backup light switch. The backup lights now work, but the upshift indicator still does not. ? Haven't solved that one yet, so any help would be appreciated. !

I had what sounds like the exact thing happen to my 87'Cabriolet. All I had to do was change the "on-off light switch". It took me about 10 minutes and I'm a girl!! I have never had the same problem since. I hope it is as easy for you. Good Luck!

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All have back seats and some have power windows and some don't. Depends on the model.

All have back seats and some have power windows and some don't. Depends on the model.