The best description of this procedure, including photos, I have found is at kwmuth.com. Just follow the first 14 steps and then reverse them to install your new mirror assembly.
See "Related Questions" below for direct link to the pdf file
ok, it is very simple. all you have to do is take off the door panel, and if you have the tweeter in the corner of the door, you are going to have to take the screen off and undo the bolts, then there are 3 bolts that hold the mirror on..... i would recommend to take a digital camera with you so you can take pictures of everything and that way you will be able to put everything back in place..
autozone.com has online manuals that give step by step how toRemoving the Door PanelIt's easy!
To take of the inside panel just remove the screws under the panel, on the left side, and one (that is hard to get to) on the inside. I don't know how to get to the mirror tho. If you know how to get that far can you email me at Chriscox06@yahoo.com I need to replace my whole mirror setup. I and if you already knew this, sorry i couldn't help.
In general, the primary mounting screws for the side mirror are under the triangle cover piece - often that is held in place with a single screw itself.
I have found the electric connector to be fairly short, so it may be possible to replace the mirror without removing the door panel.
Remove the speaker cover by carefully prying it off. From the inside of the car, remove the three nuts that attach the mirror bolts. Remove mirror. Re-install the same way.
go to a pic ur part junk yard and find a new one pull the wires out through the door panel its easy
the twisty thing that turns your lights on and off.. PULL on it. they should come on.
Here are 10 easy steps!
1. Ok, pop the hood. 2. Now look down into the front corner of the engine compartment to where the headlight is. You will see a black assembly tucked up in the fender. Yes you can access the inner fender from the engine compartment. The whole headlight assembly is close to 8" long. Since the driver side light is more interesting we will do that one. Yes you can get the drivers die headlamp out without touching the battery. I replaced the driver's side low beam lamp without removing the battery. Before trying to do the next step of the black lever you must release the metal clamp flip the small coat hanger looking shaped like an M up this releases the metal strap around the headlight assembly bucket now prees the button next to the lever the button has a crosshatch design on the small button about a half inch by quarter inch. You must find the button if you try to move the black lever up without pusing in the small button you will break the lever and then you will be off to VW to buy a new headlight bucket asembly. In my '99 Beetle there is a lever that sticks out of the headlamp assembly shield. Lifting up on the lever rotates a ring that unlocks two posts on the headlamp assembly. It can now slide straight out of the fender. The assembly rides on three tracks left side, right side and bottom.)
3. There is a black metal strap and clasp around the assembly with a metal clip on it. The clip flips back and opens up. There is also a black plastic lever sticking out of the assembly.
Next the clasp and metal strap you will notice the lever that expels the light assembly. Mine was curved indicating that you pull up on it. As you do so the lever slides you will see the headlight start to come out of the fender.
4. Once the lever is up as far as it can go you can pull the headlight assembly out of the front of the fender carefully. This was a bit messy since the caulking on our 98 was starting to go and the dealership had put some goo around it to stop leaks I think. The light assembly in our case did take some coaxing to get it to slide out and we had to play with it for awhile, but it did finally come out.
5. On the back you unplug the wires.
6. There is a plastic cap that comes off and you can access the headlight bulbs
7. After the housing is off, you will notice the lamp connector. There is a spring or hasp that keeps the lamp in the housing.
8. We had to change the low beam lamp (the one on the top of the assembly), so once the clip was removed the lamp can be pulled out of the assembly..
9. Once the lamp is pulled out you are almost done. The lamp is connected to the wires with a blade type connector. Just wiggle it from side to side to remove it. Take the new bulb (DO NOT TOUCH THE GLASS ON THE NEW LAMP, if you do it will be ruined and you will be replacing it shortly). Once you placed the new lamp in, you can follow the instructions in the reverse order to put things back together.
10. When you are totally done, before you hook the battery back up and totally button things up, try the new light out quickly to make sure its working. All done.AnswerBeetle headlight bulbs are changed by taking the whole headlight assembly out. It is locked in place by a sliding(rotating) retaining ring at the back of the headlight. The ring is released by pressing a button next to the ring handle. It is not difficult but ripping out the headlight can be a bit "scary"the first time.
Please look at the procedure, with images, at www.newbeetle.orgAnswerGo to this link..... www.newbeetle.org is by far the best place for New Beetle problems. PICTURES AND ALL
http://www.newbeetle.org/forums/showthread.php?t=171AnswerNeil, Try this link, it worked for me when I replaced the headlight on my wife's beetle.
TAnswerNew Beetle ï¿½ Headlight and Bulb Replacement
Those of you who have owned a New Beetle since ï¿½98 or ï¿½99 may have already experienced a burned-out headlight bulb. As you have found out, these are totally different in concept than the old Beetle cousins. The only similarity, if you call it that, is the general look of the headlight with the big "bug-eye" lens. Instead of replacing an entire sealed-beam headlight, you only replace a small lightbulb, just like any other modern car out there today. Not only that, but there are two bulbs ï¿½ one for the low beam and a separate one for the high beam. The reflector, likewise, is made in two sections. One section is the projector portion (the lens on the top) that carries the low beam. The high beam bulb is below it, and you can see this bulb plainly. Hopefully, none of you New Beetle owners have had to, or need to, replace an entire headlight assembly (read ï¿½ expensive!). However, if complete replacement is necessary, donï¿½t fret. Since you have to take the entire headlight assembly out just to change a bulb, this will be covered in the article as well.
You will not need any tools to do the job (one advantage over the old Beetle!). You may want to have some adhesive remover handy, along with paper towels, some car cleaner/wax, and a soft clean cloth.
Both high and low beam bulbs are H1 bulbs. This information can be found in your ownerï¿½s manual or the Bentley manual for the New Beetle. Donï¿½t depend on the auto parts store or aftermarket suppliersï¿½ catalogs to tell you anything different. When you take out the old bulb, it should have "H1" stamped on the metal base or etched on the glass itself. Low beam is a 55 watt bulb, and high beam is 60 watts.
Before you try removing the headlight housings, check for a blown fuse first, since the headlight circuits on these cars are fused. The fuse is located on the regular fuse panel inside the car, on the left side of the dashboard behind the removable cover. Well, since there are no visible screws anywhere around, how do I get the headlight out? Itï¿½s not that hard at all.
Open the hood. Locate the seam between the nosepiece and the front fender (either side). Go up between the first two fender mounting bolts and look down a few inches. See a small knob sticking out at you? That is a release lever for the headlight assembly. Push in on it slightly and pull all the way up as far as the lever will go. Now push on the headlight from behind with one hand and be prepared to catch the assembly with the free hand from the front. It may take a bit of a push because there is some gooey adhesive between the headlight and the fender. Once you have the headlight out, pull the connector off the back of the housing and take the headlight somewhere where it is easy to work on. Put it on a pillow or something soft so you donï¿½t risk scratching the lens. There is a black plastic cover on the back of the housing. See a tab on it? Push on this tab and pull the cover down to expose the bulbs. There is a metal spring clip that holds these bulbs in place. Undo this and the bulb will fall out. Take out the new bulb and compare it with the one you are replacing. Make sure the wattage is correct, since they are both H1 bulbs. Never touch the glass part of the bulb itself with your fingers.
Use the soft cloth to handle the bulb if needed. Line up the tabs of the bulb base with the slots in the reflector housing and drop the bulb in. Put the spring clip back on and make sure the ends of the clip are in securely. Put the bulb cover back on. Now is the time to clean up the mess around the fender where the headlight mounts. Remember seeing that nasty-looking goo seep out from around the rubber seal on your headlights? Thatï¿½s the adhesive I was talking about earlier.
Take the adhesive remover on the paper towels and remove this stuff from the fender before putting the headlight back in. Donï¿½t remove all of it from behind the headlight itself, as it is there to keep excess amounts of water from getting behind the headlight. Just remove enough to where it wonï¿½t make a mess anymore. A little wax around the mounting area on the fender will detail things out nicely. Position the headlight up to the fender. Push on the wire connector. Line up the tabs on the headlight assembly to the slots in the headlight housing in the fender and push the whole thing in. Sometimes things wonï¿½t line up on the first try, but keep trying. The headlight should go up against the fender fairly easily. Once you get it to this point, grab the release lever, push all the way down, and lock the headlight assembly into place. All you do now is test the lights. Thatï¿½s it! The headlight aim should not have been affected during this procedure. Some wax or glass cleaner will be good for cleaning the lenses and make them sparkle again. If you have those trick blue bulbs or other colors, always keep a spare bulb handy, of the same color and manufacturer, so you wonï¿½t be stuck with odd colors until you get the right replacement.AnswerGo to this link..... www.newbeetle.org is by far the best place for New Beetle problems. PICTURES AND ALL
http://www.newbeetle.org/forums/showthread.php?t=171AnswerThe bulbs screw in from the back. Sometimes you have to remove the light assy. AnswerOpen the hood and look for the black 'sleeve' that holds the headlight. There is an arm that extends toward the engine. You should see a channel that the arm can slide in that loosens the headlight from the 'sleeve'. IMPORTANT: DEPRESS THE SMALL CROSSHATCHED BUTTON NEXT TO THE ARM. THIS UNLOCKS THE ARM AND ALLOWS IT TO MOVE IN THE CHANNEL. After sliding the arm the full length of the channel, carefully pry the headlight from the fender ... it is tight and requires patience! When the headlight is pulled from the fender, disconnect the wire harness. The headlight is now separated from the car. Remove the black shroud from the back of the headlight. This exposes the bulb connection. Carefully disconnect the clip connection from the back of the bulb, unlock the wire pressure clasp and pull the bulb out. DO NOT TOUCH THE NEW BULB WITH BARE FINGERS - OIL FROM YOUR FINGERS COULD CAUSE THE BULB TO BLOW. Replace the bulb, reconnect the clip connection, replace the wire clasp, replace the black shroud, reconnect the wire harness and slide the headlight back into the fender. Hint: Spray the channel with WD40 to make the replacement easier. When headlight is back in place, slide the arm back into place and you are done ... congratulations!
**** This site is by far the best pics with instructions anywhere***
No it does not but you can have the dealer install one or a local car audio shop can do it.
try changing all the filters especially diesel filter
It means the fuel is not being burnt fully or too much is being injected. common causes are plugged air and fuel filters and bad timing. sometimes worn injectors can cause this also. this is common on very high mileage cars.
A mandate is when the federal government forces that states to comply to something they want done.
For example: When the federal government wanted to raise the drinking age to 21 years old there was a state (Michigan i think) that refused. The government then said that they would not give them the money to pay for a project they needed to complete, but the state said they did not care, they would not raise the drinking age. then the government said they did not care what the state thought, they would have to raise the drinking age, no matter what.
Yes, all wheels run on wheel bearings.
The noise could be a worn or damaged bearing, rust on the brake drum or disk, sticking parking brake, or under-inflated tires. Many garages will do a free brake inspection and they should show you and explain the problem they find if any.
Axles have ball bearings pressed on them and grease would be leaking from them if bad. Shocks can be noisy if you have unusual tire wear, cupping. Loose U-joint can be checked if you have the knick knick sound. Of course a dry axle housing causes a lot of noise and broke teeth can stop you from moving. If you suspect it pull inspection cover and see if there is a lot of loose metal pieces in the grease. It isn't unusual to break a gear tooth in the axle. Especially if you heavy trailer a lot.
This site had the steps for doing so and saving yourself a service charge. myvwlemon.com
The process for changing the tail light bulbs for a 2002 New Beetle in my case a TDI is relatively simple. To remove the lense and gain access to the bulbs you first need to release the lense holder from inside the trunk by completely unscrewing the large plastic wing nut that is under a round plastic panel that's located almost directly behind the rear brake light lense. To gain access to the plastic wing nut remove the round panel by gently prying it off. After this is done you release the lense by using something flat like a dinner table knife to pry and release the clip that holds the lense in place. Locating the clip: The rear fender has two seams that end at the light lense, the inboard seam (the one closest to the hatch)is where you want to insert the table knife to pry the metal clip that holds the lens in place. Gently and carefully insert the knife blade directly at the seam and pry upward to release the lense. Once the clip releases pull the lens the rest of the way and remove the bulbs by turning the bulb holder sockets couter-clockwise. After this is done remove bulbs by slightly pushing down on the bulb and turning it counter-clockwise. The reinstall is reverse of the removal the procedure.When re-installing take care to clock the lense where the metal clip and the lense protrusions end up in the same position as before. Note: you may need to assist sliding the lens retaining clip in with the knife when reinstalling! Good luck
The 2001 headlight unit is held in place by a lever located behind each unit in the engine compartment. Some earlier units also had a locking clip. Moving the lever down releases the complete unit that can then be withdrawn out the front of the fender. Note: Road grit and general accumulations of dirt may make this less than smooth. After removing the whole unit the headlamp bulb is accesible by unclipping the cover at the rear of the unit and removing the bulb. Replacement is usually H1 halogen type bulb - do not touch the glass with bare hands as the oils on your fingers will cause hot spots. Replacement is the opposite of removal although you may want to clean out the fender opening before replacing the light unit. Lock in place using the locking lever. On a 2006 VW beetle there is a metal tab on the inner side of the bulb housing that has to be pushed down NOT up as the housing is slid out. BUT, FIRST, you have to unlock a rod up in the front near the radiator. There is a label for lock and unlock. They are turned different depending on sides but there is a small sticker to show which way to turn it. After turning the locking mechanism till it stops,(EASILY) the push the metal tabs down slightly and push the housing forward. NOTE: DO NOT TOUCH THE NEW LIGHTS WITH BARE HANDS! USE A PAPER TOWEL! It's easy, under the hood on the headlight casing is a lever like thing, (careful it is fragile) pull the lever up or down (can't remember). Push the entire headlight casing out toward the front of the car. (The casing will hang over your bumper) Pull out the headlight and plug the new one in. Push the casing back in and lock the casing in with the lever. One note, there is some really sticky adhesive holding the light in, so you may have to push/pull hard to get it to slide out. Thank you so much for this info, it worked like a charm. By the way you pull up! Yes this does work for sure but it is kind a tuff for the first time so be patient, and make sure when pulling the light out not to pull the cover of the light it self, that is not the correct way of doing it. So make sure you pull the whole head light out. Also pull the liver up and out toward the light. Home REplacement is possible. There Is a lever for each headlight that releases the unit to slide out forward. However this slide mechanism is very tough to move the first time. Can break. Wiggle or tug until it pulls out. Second before you slide back lubricate rails with vasoline or the like don't get it on bulb. Next time it goes out slide will be easier. Also on slide back in make sure fully seated so lever locks. This may take a bit of effort/force. But be careful. We found this solution online so I share it with you!! I just replaced both headlights on a 99 beetle. German engineering my as*. What a piece of shi*. The little plastic handle the previous poster talked about is part of a ring of plastic that goes half way around the light mechanism. It has two slots that pieces of the light mechanism slide into and lock into place. Both of these little handles broke off. I think there is a little square tab that you need to push down while rotating this locking ring. Once you move the handle a little, have someone else try sliding the light out while you keep trying to move the handle. They both need to move at the same time. We ended up being able to force the plastic ring around after we broke the handle so the light would slide out, but it was extremely frustrating and very time consuming. Next time the lights burn out I will have to take it into the VW shop and pay an extravegant amount of money to have these little pieces of plastic replaced. Yes, you can fix this at home, but make sure it isn't cold (causes the plastic to be brittle) and that you take your time. Once more German engineering wins out....Smirk, Smirk. When moving the lever to release the locking collar make sure you push gently on the square piece of plastic next to the lever. This releases the 1/2 round collar that holds the headlight assembly in place. If you break the square tab out,(like I did) you can secure the lever in place after replacing the bulb by installing a small sheet metal screw next to the lever to lock it place. The locking collar didn't want to slide back in place once I got the headlight assembly back in and I had to remove the whole collar assembly and file a piece of plastic off by the lever that was rendering the collar useless. After this was done and a little vasaline was applied the collar assembly worked like a champ. Every time I work on my wife's bug I realize why I drive a Toyota and go give my truck a hug. I think that German car repair is revenge on Americans for winning WW2. I was able to get the headlight out but what a pain in the ***-I think next time I will pay the 80 bucks and take to dealer. I worked for 2 hours-had trouble with how to get light bulb out and new one installed. I drove over to auto zone and they showed me for free but he did not want any part of how to help me put the whole head light back in. I broke a plastic grey clip on the one side but nothing major-I did not break the lever-I really don't know how they expect you to remove it w/o breaking any clips at all. Maybe I'l try the vaseline thing to put it back inside. To all of those providing insight on this topic, thanks. It would have been nice to know what the locking collar device looked like ahead of time to understand how it functioned.
1. Check internet to hopefully find out if others have had similar problem and what remedies they came up with.
2. On this problem: After removal of headlight and replacement of bulb, wipe dust/dirt buildup off of track guides and locking collar area. Use lithium grease to lube all areas, making it easier to reinsert/lock headlight.
Note: I did not have lithium, vaseline, WD-40 etc. at the time. Tried using cooking spray and found that it worked in a pinch, though not as good as the others mentioned. Today is March 26, 2011, I just changed the right headlight on our 2001 New Beetle. This was the first time it had been changed since it was purchased in the fall of 2000. I would add to the above the following:
1. Before trying to move the lever which releases the headlight assemble, usiing a flashlight, note the perforated square area next to the lever. This needs to be depressed to release the slide mechanism which releases the headlight. I did not see it before I tried to move the lever, it must have been depressed. But I can see where I could have easily broken off the lever if it had not been. Mine would move about half the distance necessary to release the headlight. It took several (probably 30-40 ) attempts before I could get the slide to move far enough to release headlight mechanism.
2. Before replacing the assembly test the slide mechanism for smoothness of slide. Mine would hardly move, too much crap in the slide area. I removed the slide mechanism (no big deal, 3 screws), disassembled the slide mechanism, sanded down some areas of roughness between the slide pieces, lubricated the slide pieces, reassembled and installed the slide mechanism, and It worked.
Sounds like a piece of cake, but it took me 3 hours to figure it out. Hope this helps you do it in an hour or less.
Ive heard of some volvo's Running well past 400,000 but they usually say "high milage" is 75,000 or more. Some may dissagree, but alot of imported cars run longer with less trouble. Not always true tho. This can be estimated from published figures on a country's vehicle miles, total number of vehicles and vehicle sold per year. Estimate rather than calculation as the last figure varies a lot between year and year. Roughly: US 160000 Australia 145000 UK 125000 Canada & France 115000 Rest of Europe 105000 Japan 70000 Before my 1988 Mustang LX was demolished last month, the odometer had reached a whooping 479686 miles.. and still performed excellently, well until the accident. I used to have a 91 Infiniti G20 that have 315000, but then I crashed it :( ... ran like a marathoner, though, smooth and quiet.
The turn signal switch has a plug mounted on the steering column near the pedals. There are metal terminal ends crimped to the wires. Sometimes corrosion is a factor, or the terminal ends work apart. I used to back pin the plugs with my meter to check for continuity across the plug.
Should be the same as my 2003, remove the air damn under the engine (four torque screws) drivers side knob with spout at bottom af radiator
This question needs to be more specifc to produce a reliable answer. The answer will vary depending on they kind of tire, the vehicle, and the use for which the tire is applied. If we're considering a car, light truck, SUV or other passenger vehicle, there is usually a placard on the door, in the glove compartment or the fuel compartment cover which specifies the best tire pressure for the vehicle. This may be as low as 24 psi or as high as 35psi in most cases, but this is not an acceptable range to operate under. The safest range is withing 1-2 pounds of the level on the door sticker, or the owner's manual specs. Never operate for normal conditions using the Maximum pressure which is stamped on the side of the tire. This maximum is the greatest pressure which the tire is designed to resist ... not the recommended operating pressure. If a tire is used with less than the optimum pressure you note that the outside edges of the tread will be wearing faster than the center. This is a clear sign that you need to use more pressure. If the tire is wearing only in the center of the tread faster than the outside edges, then you need to reduce the pressure. The vehicle's weight and the load carried also play a part. The heavier the load the the more pressure required in the tires.
Almost always, clockwise to tighten, counter clockwise to loosen. Every once in a while you will come across a left hand thread one, but rarely.
Wait for a rainy day.
Remove any extra weight from the rear of the car, such as "dead weight" in the trunk, like a spare tire or jack.
Go to a mall with a large, outdoor parking lot.
Ensure there's PLENTY of space in front of you, and get the car going 25-30 mph as you enter a shallowly puddled area of the parking lot.
Cut the steering wheel HARD (either direction) and FLOOR the accelerator.
That should do it.
IMMEDIATELY LET OFF THE ACCELERATOR.
STEER INTO THE SKID.
Remember to breathe.
Smile. You have just survived a "controlled skid".
Repeat as necessary.
Let's hope you remember this when it happens in the snow or on ice, on a mountain road at night.
If it is out of specification the rear, yes. If it is in specification, no. Makes sense, doesn't it!
Some cars have adjustable alignment angles in the rear, and do indeed call for a four-wheel alignment. On many cars, there are no rear adjustments, but the front wheels should be aligned with respect to the rear, what is properly called a thrust-angle alignment. Unfortunately, many shops are not careful with their terminology and use the term "four-wheel alignment" when they really mean "thrust-angle alignment." Even so, they usually correctly distinguish between cars that have alignable rear ends and those that don't, and price the job accordingly.
As to whether your car has an alignable rear end, you'll need to refer to a shop manual to find out.
Yes. You'd be better off to check with the dealership for the manufacturer's recommended way to do this.
On VW aircooled engines (used in the old beetles) it is as follows.
Standing at the back of the vehicle, looking at the engine the cylinder on the left closest to you is #4, the one behind it (nearer to the front of the car) is #3. On the right side the one closest to you is #2, the one further away is #1
(front of car)
3 ---- 1
4 ---- 2
(rear of car)
Firing order is 1-4-3-2 just up dated this asit was wrong
2. In order to remove the back 2 coil packs there is a black tube called "Balance tube" remove that.
3. Remove the rest of the coil packs and connectors
4. Remove the spark plugs5. *** DO NOT GAP THE PLUGS ***THE PLUGS YOU ORDER FROM AUTOZONE OR ORIELYS OR YOUR MAJOR PARTS STORE ARE ALREADY PRE-GAPPED. THAT GOES FOR TURBO CARS TOO.
6. install the new plugs and place everything bag together making sure the vacuum hoses are both in tact. Disregard that last answer as it was extremely overly explained.
remove the front bumper lights and slam panel
remove all the hoses, connectors, cv joints, exhaust, power steering pipe, fuel pipes
undew the 3 engine mounts and drag it out the front with the gearbox
first off. its a 4.6 liter. pop into your local performance shop and pick up a super chip designed for the truck. one of the most popular in my area for gas engines is the brand Bully Dog. i use one myself, and for a gas engine its gives pretty good response. also shows your instant MPG or consumption. Transmission temp. and a few other nice perks. has multiple settings for different increases and also has a fuel saver option for the lazy days. in my books that's the best way to go. anything else voids warrenties and has the ability to disable the trucks. the governor has a safety tag built in. when pulled and not dummied the truck wont start. better off to keep it simple. and pik up a chip. also bully dog is a heads up display system so u can set it while cruising and u don't have to park and play around with a bulky set tool.
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