The factory recommended engine oil viscosity for a 2006 Nissan Quest is 5W30. You'll need about 4.5 quarts.
It means like that's ok, that's good, that's fine. ;) hope i could help! Feel free to ask more questions!
Park the vehicle on a level surface. Drain the oil and change the filter. Add 4.5 quarts of oil and start the engine. Run for 1 minute, shut down, wait 30 minutes and check the oil level. Add as necessary to fill to the full mark. You now know the capacity.
On the 1997 Nissan pickup its just above the oil filter, lower right of engine, access through right front wheelwell after removing wheel, it's a screw in affair.
Round With Roller Bearings Around The Metal Ring, Rides Inside Of A Race. Or It Can Be A Pressed On Bearing. Need More Info On What You Are Working On To Be Sure. Newer Cars Have A Pressed In Bearing.
You have to be turning the caliper clockwise to be able to compress it. There are grooves on it that will help you do this. I used needle pliers.
Nobody ever mentions an egr valve replacement..this is common in gmc vehicles...Rough idle,stalling, ignition starting trouble all relate to the egr valve sticking...
Your problem is a misfire. You need to do a misfire diagnosis and then correct the cause of the misfire. If you have allowed the misfire to continue for too long, engine damage may have occurred, but otherwise correcting the cause of the misfire should set everything right.AnswerUnfortunately it could be a number of things causing rough idle and hesitation. It sounds like the engine might be confused about how much gas and air it is getting which might mean it needs a new oxygen sensor (EMISSION) or throttle position sensor. Start with the easy maintenance items like spark plug wires, air filter, and fuel filter if they have not been replaced recently. A bad spark plug wire may only occasionally short out and cause these problems. Try looking under the hood in the dark with the engine running and see if you see any electrical arcing around the spark plug wires or just go ahead and replace them if they are old. www.RockAuto.com AnswerIt might just be a clogged fuel line/injector/ or pump, try to put some fuel cleaner in tank the next time you fill it up and see if that helps. AnswerThere are about a million and a half things that can cause this some minor, and some quite serious. First off I would have to agree with both of the previous answers but I would also have to check out a couple more things such as the MAP censor,and the o2 censor. Also adding a can of "Sea-foam" to your gas really couldn't hurt either. Good luck AnswerCan low idle speed cause this too? AnswerMy car idled rough onced and shook horribly through the whole car when I accelerated or was just pressing the gas. When I let go it would go away for a sec then come back. I put fuel system cleaners in a few times and that didn't help. After I had replaced my spark plugs it still was rough.
I found later that there was a mis-alignment(TWO PIPES WERE NOT CONNECTED) in my exhaust pipes and the flow of exhaust was interrupted. Which was the cause of the shaking.
So check you exhaust for a funny noise that could be an interruption in the exhaust system. In my case some of the exhaust was leaving toward the engine with a powerful force and shook the car where the engine roughly is, which lead me to think it was the engine.Answerspark plug fouled or coil pack bad Answeracura integra ls 1994. my problem was the spark plug wires they looked ok, but were wore out.
could be coil pack, head gasket, fuel pump, or bad injector
RockAuto gave the most extensive answer, sorry, but you have to start with the basic's. A good way to check your EGR : start the enging, stick your finger under the EGR; you should be able to feel the diaphragm. Tap the throttle a few times. If the diaphragm moves, it's probably good. Secondly, nobody mentioned vaccum. Fill a spray bottle with water and spray all around the intake. If the engine idle changes, the problem is an intake gasket. Your idle will be rough, then smooth out. Check all your vaccum lines too! These are all things you can check without doing anything to the motor.
You may consider buying a scanner and pulling your codes. This will tell you the circuit your problems are in.
If you pull the o2 sensor, sometimes they are clogged and you can clean it and put it back in. But for the trouble of raising the hood, replace it while you are there!Answer
I have a '99 Hond a Civic LX and my car was also idling rough and 'sputtering'. The mechanic used some 'Seafoam' on it and that helped a tiny bit. Then he said it might be the a/c compressor clutch. But compressors usually last a long time. I also noticed it only sputtered when my A/C was on. So the problem was with the A/C. I tried adding a little freon thinking it was low since it had never been recharged in 115k miles. This did little to nothing. I added some PAG oil and this helped more. The A/C would get cold for a few minutes and then heat up and go back to sputtering. So I had a free A/C check done on it and it was the condenser fan assembly. Apparently the motors go bad after awhile. It was getting stuck and not kicking on and that was what the sputtering was from. So they hit it with a hammer and it kicked right on and now it is super cold. So whenever the motor on the condenser fan is completely shot I will buy a new one but for now it is fine and working. By the way, you should never try to add freon or PAG oil yourself because then the levels are off and might put too much pressure on the A/C system. My next step is to have it evacuated and recharged and I'm good to go!
the 2.2 engine of 1998 and up don't have PVCAnswerI recently replaced a valve cover gasket on a 98 sunfire, and was looking for the pcv valve. I could not find, even looking in a chilton manual. Eventually I called GM, and that is when I found out they are built in to the valve cover there is nothing to replace. The Elbow that comes out of the top of the valve cover hooks right into the air box. That is what I originally thought was the PVC.
This is easy. The distributor cap is to the left of the engine if you are facing the radiator. The distributor cap is tightened down by three small bolts. It should come off easily. The rotor is directly beneath this and has a screw holding it in place under the back edge. The rotor is also very easy to replace. Rememember to mark your plug wires as you unhook them from the cap. Then simply connect the wires to the new cap and scre it down. I got a new cap for about $37 at Autozone. Have fun.
Yes, you can.
First, find the exact part (by part number) that you need by looking it up here on Hayward website: haywardnet
And then perform an online search online (using Google.com for example) with that part number.
For example, if I needed a new Hayward SP1500 pump housing cover, I would go to the Hayward site above and look under pumps and then find the SP1500 model. Looking at that document tells me that the housing cover is part #spx1500b. Next, I would perform on online seach using the terms "hayward pump part spx1500b". In this example, I found the part at several online stores very quickly (by the way, it costs around $35 in case you were wondering!!)
Hope this helps ...
Pool Gear Plus has a good selection.
Ive heard of some volvo's Running well past 400,000 but they usually say "high milage" is 75,000 or more. Some may dissagree, but alot of imported cars run longer with less trouble. Not always true tho. This can be estimated from published figures on a country's vehicle miles, total number of vehicles and vehicle sold per year. Estimate rather than calculation as the last figure varies a lot between year and year. Roughly: US 160000 Australia 145000 UK 125000 Canada & France 115000 Rest of Europe 105000 Japan 70000 Before my 1988 Mustang LX was demolished last month, the odometer had reached a whooping 479686 miles.. and still performed excellently, well until the accident. I used to have a 91 Infiniti G20 that have 315000, but then I crashed it :( ... ran like a marathoner, though, smooth and quiet.
The thermostat is located at the front of the engine, directly above the water pump. now you might have to remove the coolant shroud to and coolant fan to get down there. if you need any other help/directions email me at email@example.com and i will be glad to help i have downloadable directions if you would like them
Easy to remember as it is 1-2-3-4-5-6
205/65/15 or 215/65/15
just changed heater core for 91 Nissan maxima. I cheated and everything turned out great. first remove refrigerant from cooling system or diconnect unit at firewall and blow hole in ozone layer. disconnect hoses to heater core at fire wall.next remove lower dash and glove box.disconnect cooling unit by unscrewing two top screws ,two side screws and screw at bottom, unscrew vent flap on left. pull down and out on cooling unit.take channel locks and break off plastic pipes running through firewall twist and pull out. slide out heater core. remove plastic tubbing from new heater core and slide new unit in bracket . reincert tubes through holes by twisting and sliding them back in.rescrew back to heater core. this is tricky part because you have to feel top right screw with finger impossible to see. i used Phillips tip with extension and ratchet. place extension on screw then place ratchet on end.replace cooling unit , glove box, dash, vent flap,hoses and tubes to cooling unit. may sound crazy but saved me from removing entire dash and rear vent tubes as well as heater core housing. i now have great heat and freezing air.make sure to use old towel to catch remaining coolant in old core when you pull it out. add refrigerant oh happy day
I have a 5.8L in my 1990 and it is located behind the intake on the passenger side. Right by the valve cover.
The oil pan gasket on the 92-96 Max was a silicone compound, part number 999MP-A7007 it is important you use that. It is not a Harry Homeowner job. It involves lifting and removing engine supports and mounts. If you try, buy the manual. no-one , even a master tech can tell you on the web for that job. Sorry.
Pretty much spot on, if you arent of at least Intermediate or above DIY'er, then you shouldn't tackle this project on your own.
Its not as simple as loosening a few bolts.
ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT THE POWER STEERING PRESSURE HOSE?? IF SO, I JUST HAD MINE DONE ON MY 1988 MAXIMA. IF YOU CAN GET UNDER THE CAR COMFORTABLY YOU JUST NEED BASIC TOOLS. THE HOSE IS FLEXIBLE AND LIKE A U SHAPE WITH TWO WEIRD ENDS ON EACH END OF THE HOSE.
in the valve cover on the passenger side It is on top of metal intake, very close to throtle body. It is like 6" from a vacuum line coming from brake booster to the intake. on the intake, it is between the air idle control valve and the egr valve. u will see or feel the rubber hose sticking out of the rear of intake, the pcv valve is threaded into intake. the rubber hose is attached to it. according to manual, if u take off hose with car running, and there is a vacuum present, then valve is working.
That's interesting because im going throught the same problem. I have a 97 Maxima and the engine light came on. I had it scanned and the code was P1441 which means "Vacuum cut bypass valve or ciruit fault".I dont know what that is. I need help with figuring this out too. try taking out the egr valve and cleaning it really good with break cleaner also change the gasket it's like 3 bucks unhook your battery for 10 minutes to let the computer reset itself after that drive for about 20-30 minutes to let the computer relearn the car then take it to autozone or checkers and use their free code reader to see if it is still reading that code if so change the egr valve all together with. Check the connection between EGR valve tube and the engine. The tube can be easily clogged by carbon deposit from the exhausted gas. At least that is what happened to my 96 maxima. The tube is kind of difficult to reach because it is on the back of the engine, opposite to the firewall.
Go to auto zone and have the codes read for free.
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY
I disconnected the battery and the light did not reset
On my '95 maxima I have to leave the battery disconnected for ~24 hours to reset the engine lignt.
On my 1987 Maxima there is a button to push to reset the light. It is located underneath the passenger kick panel.
On my 1999 Maxima I had to disconnect the battery for 24 hours
Go to autozone and have them clear it, easiest way, go to yoru local mechanic, he should have a obd scan tool, pay to have him remove it.
Easy. The front three coils are under the plastic 3000 badge on the front cylinder head. There is a single 10mm bolt holding in each coil. Once the bolt is removed disconect the wire attached to the the top, and the coil comes out. The rear coils are not under anything, but are harder to get to with all the other stuff back there. Removal is the same as the front three.
A 1997 Nissan Maxima rear speaker will be 6 3/4 inches for the non-Bose stereo. Webites will say 6 1/2 inches, but they're wrong. Infiniti tends to make a good set of 6 3/4 inch speakers to throw in as the rear drivers (either Reference or Kappa series).
FUSE There is a blue relay (a larger cube than a fuse) in the fudebox near the battery. I replaced it from a salvaged car and it worked again.
its very simple.1st get the coil pack from the dealer .the # 6 cylinder is located in the front far left.the coil has a cover over them so u have to remove it.its held in place with 4 Allen screw.after u remove it the 3 coils in the front will be visible .find the #6 coil which is far left.there is a plug attach to it. to remove press the button on the plug and it should pop off.be careful not to break it.there is a bolt that holding the coil in place.remove it and just pull coil out and replace it follwing the reverse directions.
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