2000 Honda Accord V6 Here is how I went about replacing the alternator for this model. 1. Take out your car battery and have it charging while you work. 2. Loosen up your power steering container. The hoses can stay connected. Just loosen the bolt. 3. Undo all of the electrical clips that are on the fan so that you can remove the entire fan. There are two bolts on the top and one bolt on the bottom. I reached down with a 10mm socket and took it off (If you have trouble try putting the socket on the bolt and then the wrench into the socket for an easier fit. The fan should lift completely out. The hardest electrical clip will be on your lower left. That one is actually just clipped to the fan so unlike the others, you're taking it off the fan and not separating the wire plugs. Raise your fan out. 4. Take out the green plug off the alternator. 5. On the right side of the alternator is wire going in that is covered by a rubber plug. Pull off the rubber plug and use your 10mm socket to remove that bolt. 6. Loosen the pulley for the alternator. The bolt you're looking to loosen is NOT the large bolt of the pulley attached to the alternator but rather the next one back (back as in towards the back of the car). Just loosen the bolt (14mm I believe) in order to take the belt off the pulley of the alternator. 7. My next advice is to loosen the clamp that you'll see on top of the alternator (your green plug wire runs through this. Loosening this up will make taking the alternator out a breeze and is a cinch to loosen up. 8. Take out your two primary bolts holding the alternator in. 12mm socket should do this for you. 9. You should be able to pull the alternator out with ease especially if you followed step 7.
When checking the price of your replacement alternator be sure to know what the cost of your alternator will actually be. You'll see the price plus the core cost. By this they usually mean $145.99 Core $50. This means you'll pay $195.99 if you don't bring your old alternator (IE your Core) in first. If you do, you'd pay $145.99 plus sales tax.
Tools: Have a set of wrenches, sockets (14, 12, and 10mm), and a pointer magnet is highly recommended.
The whole process is rather easy if you know what you are doing. I didn't but now I do. I've tried to include the basic information I didn't know. Good luck! You can do it.Replacing an AlternatorTo start, REMOVE YOUR NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL.
Well first off if you have the shield under your car then you will have to remove that, 2 screws under the car, 2 screws and 1 popout clip in the front passenger side wheel well(you have to remove the wheel to get to it). Once you have that off you will be able to see the alternator from under the car. Start at the top under the hood, remove your plastic piece that covers the front of your engine bay, once that is off unplug the connectors to the alternator(one is visible and the other is under a black cap you have to pop off and unscrew), there is also a clip holding the wire to the alternator on the shield piece of it(pointing toward the engine, you will see it, it pops out with a bit of force). Once all connections have been removed you will have to slip your alternator belt off the alternator(if replacing belt as well, which I do recomment you just loosen the tensioner and pull it off of all the pullies) then there is 1 bolt holding the alternator in at the top (tough to get to but what I did was stick my arm down the side with a 10mm and wrap it around in front of the alternator and take it off. Once that is removed go back under the car and there is 1 bolt holding it in that you have to remove before it comes out freely. After that your home free :)Manuallook into getting a Hayes repair manual or similar book for your cars make, model and year. It should tell you how to install the alternator. Your local library may also have a general auto repair manual to give you a general idea. Hope this helps :) also if you have a friend or a friend of a friend that is a mechanic, maybe they can help GeneralI can give you general information on changing an alternator because I've done it twice on my 1991 Chevy Cavalier. Before you get dirty and take your car apart, test it to make sure the alternator is really bad. If you have a voltmeter, measure the voltage at the battery with the engine off. For a fully charged battery, it should be 12.6 volts or higher. Start the engine and check voltage again, now it should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts, indicating that the alternator is charging. Auto parts stores can also test the battery and alternator both on and off the car. First of all, to avoid any short circuits, disconnect the negative battery cable before working on any part of the electrical system. I once forgot to do this while working on my car. The alternator wire brushed against the mounting bracket and made some pretty good fireworks under the hood. SAFETY FIRST!!! Once the electricity is off, take off the drive belt. If your car uses regular V-belts, there will be a curved metal arm above the alternator. Loosen this bolt so you can move the alternator to take the tension off. Note: You might as well replace the belt too if it's in bad shape. If your car has a serpentine belt (one belt drives everything) there is a spring-loaded tensioner wheel. Most auto parts places sell a special tool for releasing the tension. If there is enough room, vise grips will work as well for serpentine belts. Once the belt is off, disconnect the electrical wiring from the back of the alternator. There will usually be a connector plug that snaps in as well as the "battery" wire, a red wire secured to a post on the back marked "B+". Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the mounting bolts that hold the alternator on (usually two or three bolts), and remove the alternator from the mounting bracket (Don't lose the bolts!!!). Save the old alternator, odds are you will need it to return as a core to get your core fee back when you buy the new alternator. When you buy the new alternator, you will need to tell the parts guy what make, year, model, and motor size when you buy the replacement unit. Installation is simply a reverse of removal. 80's Hondaon some late 80's Honda's you have to remove the splash pan and the left side cv axle to get it out. Me firstRead Me First!!!! I have just completed the changind of an alternator on a 1987 Honda Accord. I did NOT remove the front left axel! That is the good news. The bad news is i did some grinding around one of the engine mounts(harmless, I assure you) The car was designed where is you have to remove the axil, but let me tell you, i explored that possibility and from what i read, i tried my way and it actually did work. If you have gotten to this point 1) Car is jacked up and you have located and loosened the alternator (if you are this far, you see what i mean) Its not coming out nomatter how you turn it, pull it.. i tried it all...believe me, its not happening.... If your this far...go get you a grinder and grind on the mount for a while. It will come out and it beats removing the axil and whatever goes along with that ie..grease spillage or ? If you know what you are doing than go ahead, odds are you are not reading this page anyway, but if your like me than take my advice..GRIND IT! ,,,It works
Check out Autozones website. They have the Chifton manuels for most cars on the site. It will point you in the right direction.Try thisbefore you remove your alternator, try this; turn your car on, open the hood, disconnect a battery terminal; if the alternator is working fine, the car should keep on running, if the car turns off, then you know you should change the alternator, I tell you this because I changed the alternator twice before I found the problem on my car. << - (Don't try that because unhooking the battery while the car's running can fry the electrical system. ManualThis is a very involved procedure, that is too complex to post here. Go to any auto parts store and purchase a repair manual for you ride. There you will find detailed instructions. Cost around $12 SimpleDisconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Disconnect the alternator's feed and secure it as to not make contact with anything. Unbolt the alt. and replace it (belt may be difficult to put back on...don't use a screwdriver though...could cause damage to the belt). Check the belt tension as per recommended tension. Reconnect alt's. feed and, then, the battery's negative.
Chilton's Guide is always a helpful knowledge base for auto repairs. =uDAnswerYou should only have to take out 2 bolts and take off a belt. When replacing an alternator you usually want to replace the belt to. AnswerIt depends in large part on what kind of car you have.
On most American cars, the alternator's on top--you unhook the battery, remove two bolts and the belt, disconnect the wires, take out the old alternator and put in a new one, then reconnect everything you disconnected. The other end of the spectrum is the four-cylinder Honda engine, where the alternator is behind the engine and you need to be a contortionist to get it out.Answer
This works for any rear-wheel-drive car, SAAB 900s, or any front-wheel-drive with the alternator in front of the engine. Basically, anything but an aircooled Volkswagen or a four-cylinder Honda (This works on six-cylinder Hondas too.)
Prop up the hood. Unhook the battery.
There are two bolts holding it in: the pivot bolt underneath, and the adjuster bolt on top. The adjuster bolt's the one sliding in the channel. There is also at least one electrical connection. Unhook all four of those. Remove the alternator belt from the car and take both to the auto parts store with the year and make of your car. Buy a new one of each. (Alternators come with a "core charge"--they rebuild them, and the core charge is to ensure you bring the old one back. But if you bring the old one in with you, there isn't a core charge.)
Go home with the new ones. Put it in its proper place in the car and install the two bolts, electrical connections and the belt. Get a big prybar and use that to pull on the alternator so it tightens the belt (when the belt is tight, you should be able to push it down no more than a quarter-inch in the middle with gentle pressure from your thumb) before tightening the adjuster bolt.
Hook up the battery and you're done.
If you carry enough tools with you, you can usually replace one of these in the auto parts store's parking lot. It takes about ten minutes.
See "Related Questions" below
The vehicle speed sensor is located on the rear, left hand side of the engine as you stand in front of the car looking at the motor. When you look at the back of the engine , under the exhaust manifold , there is a small heat shield that you can pull off [it is spring clipped on the back, so you can pull it off without damaging it] and there it is.
It's hard to see the sensor from the left side ,I had to place a light by the exhaust , then look at it from the right hand side of the car. I removed it by working from the right side stretching over, the only way I could see it and get to it.
There are 2 types of sensors available depending on your transmission. I bought both ,1 was special order, and both appeared wrong, till someone told me I had to reuse the gear from the old sensor and place it on the new one. Came off easily by removal of clip. One of the new sensors already had a gear, but it was too large [special order one] the other had no gear and was the one I needed and had to switch gear from old sensor to newAnswer
if its the same as a 98, then with the hood up and your looking towards the rear of the car, its on the left side of the engine, at the back, look way down over the exhaust manifold and you will see a two wires in an insulated sleeve disappearing into a rectangular heat shield, pull on the heat shield and it will come off and slide up the wires and voila there it is. mine was a swine to get out, the top part of the vss sensor came off, i had to thread a 5/16 lag bolt into the thing and pound it out with a slide hammer gear puller, but the shop wanted $400 to replace it.. i was successful and went to dinner with the savings lolAnswer
The trick is to snake your arm down the back, adjacent to the manifold pipe, and unplug the wiring harness. I used a 10mm socket to unscrew the bolt that holds the sensor in place. Once the screw was out it was easy to pull the sensor out and rush to Auto Zone and get a new one. Reverse the process in putting the sensor in(20 min flat), test drove that bad boy and it works like a charm. All done it cost me $20 that's a far cry from $150 to $250 to have it done at a garage. Yoah! I'm a happy camper.
When standing in front of the facing the motor, the speed sensor is on the left hand, back side of the motor in the rack & pinion. Just unplug the sensor and get a strong grip on the sensor and pull it straight up and out. To put the new one in, just push it in the hole where the old one came out until it snaps in over the o-ring. I had to change mine about 2 years ago and that's all there is to it. I hope this will help!!! Good Luck!!Answer
The speed sensor is on the passenger side top of the transmission! It's not on the rack and pinion! I'm a student at Albany Technical College in the automotive technology class and I recently had to replace the one on my Grandmothers car. The best way I found to do it was remove the passenger side tire and then remove the passenger side motor mount and...voila! It's right on top of the transmission and the 10mm bolt is on the drivers side...so it is a little tricky to get to! You take the bolt out and pull the old one out...and put the new one in and reverse the process! it's time consuming but...thats the easiest way I could find to do it! Hope this helps anyone else that has to replace this!Answer
Remember that there is one nut (10mm) that needs to be removed before the sensor will pull out. The sensor might (should) have a silver heatshield around it, so it might blend in with the surroundings.
I just did the VSS on wife's '96 Taurus. A much easier way is to remove the air tube from the air cleaner to the throttle body, disconnect the charge air temp and the MAF sensor and set it out of the way. Put the transmission in the lowest position to move the trans lever out of the way. It is a straight shot from the drivers side. Pull the sensor up from the right side to make it easier to disconnect.
And when you replace a sensor it sometimes helps to disconnect the battery to zero-out the ECM and allow the ECM to learn the new sensor.
Which speed sensor are you referring to? There are as many as 6. There is one at each wheel for the ABS system, there is a TSS(Turbine Speed Sensor-that helps the PCM decide which gear the transmission should be in and whether the transmission is performing correctly), and there is a VSS(Vehicle Speed Sensor-which also helps the PCM do transmission functions, operate the speedometer, and provides speed information for the cruise control).
It is in the back of the engine under the exhaust manifold. It can be accessed from the drivers side with a 10mm socket, universal elbow and a couple drive extensions. Hard to get at, but not to bad once you locate it.
At the top of the output shaft housing on the passenger's side of the transmission. If you reach down behind the back of the engine on the passenger's side, down to the transmission housing, you will probably put your hand right on it. It will be covered by a cardboard and foil protective cover.
ok here is the right answer for your question it is located on top of the tranny under the #2 cylinder between engine and fire wall and it is easier to see if you remove the air intake hose and have a good flashlight. hope this helps just changed mine last week.Answer
It is called the "vehicle speed sensor". If i remember correctly it about $35 dollars at the parts store.
This sensor will make your car not shift out of first or hold out first a lot longer, and at times you may not have a speedometer. It is located on the tranny directly below the intake manifold. This is a hard one. I crawled on top of my car and laid the side of my face on the manifold. please do this when its cold. Arms on both sides till you find this thing sticking out at a 45 degree angle pointing towards the driver seat. Its only one bolt 10mm, I think. finding where that bolt goes back without being able to see it is the hard part. Good luck 20 minutes for me.
You will probably have to jack up and remove the RF wheel, and it will probably take a combination of working down behind the engine from the top with a super long socket extension with a 10mm flex socket, and working inside the RF wheel well. the sensor is at the end of the speedo cable, buried under a cardboard and foil covering.
After you get the old sensor out, make sure you transfer the speedo gear. It is held on with a metal clip.
The only other problem here is that, once you fight half a day to replace this sensor, your problem may still not be fixed. I find that many times, the sensor is not the only problem. Deep inside the transmission there is a plastic gear that drives the VSS. Often the VSS is misdiagnosed because the real culprit is that the drive gear is stripped. If it is, the transmission will have to come apart to fix. You are doing the right thing by replacing the VSS though, because there is no way to determine if the drive gear is the problem until you try a VSS first.
www.autozone.com Click Component Location.
On the 1997 Nissan pickup its just above the oil filter, lower right of engine, access through right front wheelwell after removing wheel, it's a screw in affair.
It depends upon the variant of the Frontier but usually, if I am not mistaken, I think here in the Philippines we have a 215/70 R15 for the lower variants of the Nissan Frontier.
I found this while looking for the same answer for my '99 Frontier. I looked and sure enough there are two bolts under my bedliner - hopefully I'll have taillights tonight. =) Good luck.
If you have a bedliner, the two #1 Phillips screws are behind it. If you have a bed extender, the bolts that hold in the tails are the same for the brackets for the bed extender.
This also applies to newer Frontiers as well. Mine is a 2004. The bedliner concealed the 2 screws.
After removing the 2 screws the tail light assembly can be pulled slightly to the rear. There are 2 plastic plugs that are holding it in at this point.
Grasp the assembly at the top and bottom and pull firmly to the rear.
I suspect that as the vehicle gets older this plastic plug system will break. The female parts can be replaced as they screwed into the body.
To reassemble a sharp rap with the heel of the hand will reseat the plugs.
Below and behind the glove box. You do not have to remove the glove box(it will make it easier) but it is hard to do the first time and a breeze thereafter. On a cool day locate the tab on a long slender plastic cover to the cabin filter. It is very awkward to reach. It will easily remove and reveal a small white fabic tab to the filter itself. The filter is larger than the opening if you can believe it - don't ask me why. You will have to get a feel for how the filter will bend in one direction and not the other in order to get it out without tearing the tab off. Remove the filter and then vacuum the area and yourself before replacing with the new filter. It will be Sooo much easier the second time. Good luck.
You need a new brake pedal stop, your's is broken. It goes in the pedal under the dash. It's just a plastic button and costs about three dollars at the dealer.
you will have to replace.
No, it has a chain!
with a lots of patience....
2.0 I-4 or 2.5 V6?
If its the 2.5 1.put the car on ramps 2. drain radiator fluid3. remove upper radiator hose3. loosen/remove alt. drive belt (loosesn belt tensioner bolt and then move the tensioner up with adjusting bolt, a/c belt similar)4. remove plastic splash shield 5. loosen/remove drive belt for ac compressor.6. remove a/c compressor & support it on a stand but DONOT DISCONNECT A/C LINES 7. loosen alt. bolts (2) and unplug/unbolt wires from alt.8. remove old alt. from car (be careful not to damage radiator as there is not much clearance)
don't forget to refill and bleed the cooling system. you may have to unbolt the radiator supports and remove the cooling fan to gain access to the alt.
also, the 1st alt. I bought was bad, might be a good idea to have your new alt. bench tested before installation, most parts stores will do this for free.
long and short extension
breaker bar or Big wrench so you can put on rachet to give you more leverage.
start by disconnecting the battery. Something that will greatly help from the top is disconnect the wire from the starter going to the positive battery wire. You will thank god for this later. (it was a pain in the butt)
Remove nut from positive side of silinoid
Remove 10 mm bolt holding stainless steel lines
Remove 14 mm upper and lower bolts (I used racheting wrench with extension and 1" wrench to give me leverage)
There is one more 14 mm short bolt that is above tranny pan that you will need a long extenstion to get to.
Once you remove all bolts starter should almost fall out of place minus wire that you disconnected earlier. The one I had, had gotten caught up with other wires and I finally got aggrivated and just broke the wire off to get the starter out. This is not a big deal as the new or remanufactured starter will have this wire.
Make sure to line up the plate right and thread in the top bolt hand tightened.
Do the same as with lower bolt.
line up bracket and thread in the short bolt tight so you don't have to mess with it again.
tighten stainless steel line back together.
Have someone push the wire up you in the upper part of the engine area and plug wire back in.
tighten all bolts and make sure to attach positive batter cable wire to starter.
Reinstall battery and give the key a turn.
You need to get it tested. Auto Zone, Checker Auto, Kragen Auto or any of the local consumer auto parts distributors will check it for free. Call around if you have any questions. In general, if you want to run a primitive test yourself you can use a volt meter. Test the voltage before starting the engine, it should be around 12 volts, maybe a little lower if the battery isn't fully charged. Then start the engine. With the engine running and about 1000 RPM you should have 13.5 Volts at the battery. the easiest is to go to the local parts store most can check them right on the car. compare engine off voltage to engine running voltage. If it does not go up during engine running it is probably bad. Hey Lakisha==Take it to Auto Zone and they can check it out for free. Goodluck Joe If it is makeing a noise or is not putting out at least 13.5 volts it is bad. Take the car or the alternator to an Auto Parts store and have them load test the alternator to be sure. Just disconnect one of the battery post.If engine dies your running on battery.Are have an auto store check it for free they test load it. E.C.H Depending on the vehicle< it could range from the alternator gauge not registering a charge to an alternator light on the instrument cluster staying on. The easiest way to check this is to get a voltage meter and run it across the two terminals on the battery with the engine running. If you get a charge of 13.8 +/- 1 volt then it is charging if below with the engine running then the alternator is done. when the car is started disconect your battery and turn on your lights. if they are dim or dont come on your altinator is bad. Use a volt meter and measure the voltage on the battery with car NOT running. It should read 12 volt. Turn on the engine and measure the voltage on the battery again. If the alternator is good, the voltage should be 13+ or 14+ volts. If the alternator is bad, the voltage would be the same or less than 12 volt. If your battery is bad, the voltage would be less than 12 volt. You can also bring your car to an auto parts store and they will check it for you for free. have it tested,loss of electrical power is usually battery or alternator if happens slowly Disconnect the battery cable and see if your engine keeps runing. If the engine stops running your alternator isn't putting out any electrical power to your engine. Replace your battery cable and go have your alternator tested. If your alternator is good then start looking for a short somewhere. Sometimes the bearing inside the alternator will begin to make noise, not always. You can started the car, turn on the headlights, and then other accessories to see if the headlights dim when they are turned on. Alost of places like Autozone, Checker, and NAPA can bench test the alternator for you. Does your battery go dead when you drive for any length of time with the headlights on. If so there is a pretty good chance that your alternator is bad especially if the voltage regulator in internal (inside the alternator)
4 cyl or v6? What year? auto or standard trans?
A 1997 Nissan Maxima rear speaker will be 6 3/4 inches for the non-Bose stereo. Webites will say 6 1/2 inches, but they're wrong. Infiniti tends to make a good set of 6 3/4 inch speakers to throw in as the rear drivers (either Reference or Kappa series).
This information is listed in the owner's manual and under the hood on a placard.Answer.044
.044 inch for the 4.9 liter ( 300 cubic inch ) inline six cylinder and the 5.8
liter ( 351 cubic inch ) V8
.054 inch for the 5.0 liter ( 302 cubic inch ) V8
on a 1989 Ford F-150
There is a metal pulley between the alternator and the crankshaft. Loosen the nut in the center of the pulley and adjust the tension with the bolt just under the pulley. This is best done from under the automobile.
But.... even though you you do all that, the alternator bolts have to be taken out which you cant cause of the frame of the mini-van you have to loosen the motor mounts and lift up the engine till the alternators bolts are clear from the frame and A/C lines
warning* oil pan is very delicate and you will have to push up the engine to its extremes
That is the wrong way.
The correct way (and this is straight from a KIA dealer tech)
First, set aside between 2 to 3 hours depending on your mechanical ability and tool selection.
1. Unhook the battery terminals.
2. Loosen the idler pulley, remove the belt.
3. Remove the top radiator support metal structure that the hood latch, the horn, etc are attached to.
4. Remove the cooling fan.
5. Loosen the radiator and condenser if a/c equipped.
6. Remove the O2 sensor.
7. You can finally get to the alternator and see that you'll have to slide it out from the front of the engine.
8. Now the bottom bolt is a little too long to remove but it will still allow you to remove the alternator with it out as far as it will go.
9. The alternator also has compressed retainers where the bolts go in to help it to stay in place. Using a small cold chisel or screw driver you can easily push them back in.
10. Remove the alternator, use a piece of cardboard so you don't brush against the radiator.
11. Reinstall new one as removed.
12. Follow mfgrs directions on alternator hookup so as not to void warranty. (you do NOT want to do this again if it fails).
I have personal installed 5 alternator using this method on my own 2002 Sedona. So spend the money and get a good one so you don't have to do it more than once.
undo ground wire cable then jack the car up. Much easier from the bottom. Remove the belt by loosening the adjuster until belt can be rolled off pulley.There are 2 12 mm bolts at the top of the alternator .one can be seen from the front without much trouble the other you must feel for from the back . To get the unit to clear power steering and A/c lines it is best to let down the sway bar. undo battery wire from back of alternator. I think it will take longer than 20 minutes for the turbo model .
the alternator is removed from below and there is three bolts (10 mm socket) that need removed. one of these bolts is on the other side of alternator. use a small mirror to see this bolt. Don't forget to disconnect battery!!!
Hey Allan===It depends on what engine you have but both are probably the same labor wise. You really need guidance and the best is to get a manual from a parts store and it should have pictures and everything. GoodluckJoe
If you buy an Edelbrock, they come with instructions... Best tip is to insure a good seal, using gasket sealer. The front and rear are known to leak from not enough sealer....and make sure to use a torque wrench, tightening in order and to specs. Recheck and retorque if necessary at next oil change.
I don't know if it would be the same way with an SL2, but I happen to have a 1996 Saturn SL1 that I replaced the alternator with and this is what I had to do to replace it.
First you have to get the car on a lift. Then, take off the passenger side front tire and then there is a plastic splash guard you have to remove to gain access to the alternator. In order to remove the alternator you have to take the tension off the pulley by releasing the serpentine belt. Then, remove the 3 bolts that mount the alternator. but before you remove any electrical connections to the alternator, disconnect the main negative of the battery to prevent shock or a power surge.
I have a 97 SL2 and I have done the alternator.
Everything he stated is correct. A few additional points.
The mounting bolts are very hard to see and you will need to rotate the pulley to get to all of them.
Once the alternator is free it needs to be removed through the wheel well. It won't appear to fit anywhere but it really does.
Additional points: I have changed alternators in SL2s about a dozen times now (much to my chagrin).
1. Before you even BEGIN disconnect your battery completely. You can cause serious damage to your alternator and car computer if you do not. Better to err on the side of caution you see. 2. The other safe thing to do is to remove the serpentine belt BEFORE you get the car on a lift device. 3. Next, raise the car on a lift so you can get underneath safely and easly. 4. Remove the passenger side front tire and splash guards. 5. Remove the electrical wiring from the alternator. 6. Remove the bolts on the alternator. (Taking care to have the alternator secured before removing the last bolt. 7. On many Sl2s upon removal of the last bolt, you may place your hand underneath it, and give it just about a quarter turn, and slowly slide it through an opening below the alternator that looks as though, and may feel as though it should never fit through. You can do this by giving it that quarter turn, and then sorta spiraling it through the opening in a slow and decisive manner.
Repeat these steps in reverse order to insert a new alternator.
The first time i did this it took me an hour, the second 1/2 hour, and there on out it only takes me about 15 minutes. Its a very simple process, almost as easy as changing your oil... the hardest part is undoing the bolts.
1. Remove the plastic air intake system which includes the air filter, 1 vacuum hose, the tube that runs to the carb, the tube that runs off to the left. There are three bolts that hold the bottom of the air filter housing on. Most of this system is a snap together assembly. Just pull it apart.
2. The alternator will have two bolts on the front bottom. The left one is a double sided bolt and the right one is a pass through bolt with a nut on the back. Stick a wrench or a short socket wrench on the nut behind the alternator and remove the pass through bolt from the front. Then remove the double sided bolt from the left side.
3. This leaves the alternator loose and being held by the belt. remove the belt from the alternator and wiggle and jiggle the alternator out of the mounting area (very tight squeeze to get it out). You can put a larger size can of fruit or something in the place of the alternator to hold the belt in place so you can remember how it looks.
4. You will need to loosen the belt tensioner to put the belt on the new alternator. Remove the can of fruit if you chose to do that but be careful to not accidentally remove the belt from the 5 or 6 different places it passes through. Place the new alternator, put in the bolts and tighten. Loosen the tensioner and put the belt on. Tighten the tensioner and adjust as needed. Replace the entire air intake system by snapping it all back together and bolting it in one piece at a time.
The Alternator is held by "two bolts" located at the top(12mm) and bottom (14mm). Remember to disconnect positive side of battery. First loosen 10mm nut that holds positive cable at back top of the alternator, then unplug wire harness on back. Second remove the 12mm bolt at top form the back. Third remove 14mm bolt at bottom form front. When you remove these bolts you should be able to loosen and pry out with a flat screw drive.
A faulty gas cap can cause this symptom.Answerlow oil
you should take it to AutoZone if there is one in your area. They do a check/service engine light analasys for free.Answercheck the gas cap, if it is not on tight ( let it click 3 times) the engine light will come on. Good luck. AnswerI have same problem After they reset it at the service ,come back on after about three weeks .Theye found pin hole in the sim on the fuel tank.($500+ TAX out off warranty Nissan does not help is not their problem )Looks like a lot of people has similar problems.
My "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light came on after a 30K service. I did as much research as you can imagine. The bottom line: I tightened the gas cap. Granted, this was the simplest solution. However, it took a full tank of gas before the light extinguished. At least it was something simple.
Not really-however, buy a replacement from Nissan. We have had non-Nissan clutches range from lasting a few months to bad out of the box.
I believe the law states that all vehicles built in or for the united states have a standard OBDII connector within 1 foot of the steering column.
look under the dash on the drivers side and you will find it.
What is pokediger1s password on roblox?
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