This answer applies to any car. Avoid hard acceleration. Accelerating all the way to where you have to lift and apply the brakes wastes fuel.Keep the speed below 60mph where possible. Just overcoming the wind resistance at highway speeds causes much increased fuel consumption. Don't let the car sit and idle. It is not necessary to warm a car up in cool weather. Start it, let it reach smooth running and drive it. It is all a matter of physics. You are using a fuel to produce heat energy and then producing heat energy at the brake assemblies to scrub off inertia.I drive my cars on an average of 8 years and the brake pads are not over 30% gone. If you have heavy brake pad dust accumulation on the front wheels, you are not driving the car conservatively.And yes,I'm an old fart. But I have never wrecked one in almost sixty years of driving. AARP safe driving instructor.
Here are opinions and answers from FAQ Farmers: * The timing chain tensioner is a snap...getting to it is the problem. You have to undo the engine mounts and pivot the engine down, as well as remove the front right fender liner and wheel (possibly remove some suspension components also) to get the cover off. Just disregard that last part if you are already to the point of resetting the timing. If I remember there are two pieces to the tensioner (for a Grand Am anyway), but there were also different models of the same part available from GM, a pivoting assembly with a wheel on the end of it and a bolt to tighten it. Also be careful to put everything back correctly because for some reason GM thinks that the timing chain is a good place to run the water pump off of. * If you are installing the old tensioner you will need to compress the piston on the tensioner slowly with a vise. You will see a hole in whitch you can put a small "pin", line up the holes and slide it in being careful to get all the way through to the other side. Failing to do so could crake the aluminum housing. If you are installing a new one, it should go on the same way you took it off.
for the cam gears its right on the upper timing belt cover plate, and for the crank, theres a mark on the crank collar
Usually if you look between the two metal ends there is a glass tube, in the tube is a metal wire, it can be of various size, if this wire is broke, burned or not visable the fuse is blown or bad.
Timing marks for twin cam 1.6L B6 engine. When crank pulley is at TDC on the compression stroke, 'E' & 'I' on the camshaft pulleys should be at 12 o'clock. Too easy.
Ford Escorts from 91 to present don't have timing marks because the timing is controlled by the engine computer.
No, it has a chain.
You need to ask yourself one question - do you love them? If the answer is yes it wouldn't matter if you lived 10 hours apart. Everything is worth it for love. If you're not sure you love them, go out on some dates and compare them to your guy. You will soon see how special (or not) he is and whether he is worth the effort. If you both feel it's worth it, then it is. It will be a bit harder than a "normal" relationship, but if you want to be together, you can make it work. If it's really worth it then move closer to each other. If you're completely serious about it then get married and move into the same house. Otherwise... no. Well speaking from experience, If the other person is mutually serious about their feelings for you and willing to put forth an earnest effort to make the relationship grow into more than just being friends or hanging buddies, then I would say yes. True love will not be hurt by time spent apart or distance. However, keep in mind that in order to get to trully know someone you have to spend time talking with them and being in their company. Get to know all you can about this person by asking as many questions as you can and listening to what they do say as well as to what they dont say. Good Luck your going to need it.. answer If you both love each other then yes. Do you dread going over there? If you do then you only like that person. If no then you love her & it dont matter how far away you live from each other.
Replace every 60,000 miles. This is an interference engine and as such if they belt breaks you will have serious engine damage.
Under the hood should be a diagram of the belt, this is your best reference without the service manual. All you have to determine is which direction to rotate the belt tensioner, and then put the belt back on as shown in the diagram.
If it is not you can run down to your nearest auto parts store and they can print it out for you or just buy the Hayes or chilton manual on your car. It only cost a few bucks and it well helps you out later down the line if something else brakes.
Relieve Serpentine Belt Tension.
Before removing the belt, note its routing around all applicable pulleys for ease of installation.
1. Using a box end wrench on the tensioner pulley center bolt, rotate the tensioner assembly clockwise.
2. While holding the tensioner in this position, remove the alternator drive belt from one or two of the applicable pulleys.
Use a box end wrench to rotate the tensioner pulley assembly clockwise to relieve serpentine belt tension
1. Slowly release the tensioner, and remove the box end wrench from the center bolt.
2. Remove the alternator drive belt from the remaining applicable pulleys.
When installing the drive belt on the pulleys, ensure that it is properly seated in all of the pulley grooves.
1. Using the box end wrench, rotate the tensioner clockwise again, then position the drive belt on all of the pulleys.
2. Slowly release the tensioner until it eliminates all drive belt slack.
3. Inspect the tensioner indicator to be sure that the belt is properly tensioned. If the belt tension is incorrect, the belt should be replaced with a new one, or, if installing a new belt, the belt may not be the correct belt for your vehicle.
4. Then start the engine. Ensure that the drive belt works properly.
5. Stop the engine, then double-check to ensure that the belt is properly seated on all applicable pulleys.
that's a tough one.
it sounds to me like your woodriff key is loose, broken or missing.
cam and crank gear keeper bolts
could be coming loose or stripped.
may even be a bad cam shaft bearing.
or a crank shaft bearing.
oh. chain could be wrong size as well.
valve springs to stiff/not worn in maybe? they could be causing the cam to bind a little so the crank's compression is just yanking on the chain causing it to jump.
I'm sorry, you need to specify more info.. like, How do you know its the timing chain or belt (did not specify engine type) etc..
It won't jump time! (but once) Then it quites and most likely wipes out some valves in the process. Makes no difference if it is a overhead cam with a timing belt or an in block camshaft driven by gears or a timing chain set. Once it jumps time that's it until it' repaired. The cam and crank are either in time or they aren't. I resently repaired a 5.0L Ford (302 V-8) that had a problem like this and it turned out to be the distributor. The rotor drive flang on top of the distributor drive shaft that is timed to that camshaft and holds the "rotor button" had a broken weld and it would "skip" around the shaft on start ups and get to a point of out of time where it would not start or quite when being driven on the road. You could re-time the distributor and it would start and run fine for a short while then do it again. I finally took the cap back off and took hold of the rotor drive flang, minus the rotor button, with a large pair of "water pump" slip joint pliers and found I could rotate the rotor drive flang of the distributor shaft back and forth. Not " a good thing", at all! A reman'ed distributor from the Zone repaired it and she runs like a top. This sound more like the problem your asking about. There is not much probibility, AT ALL, your timing chain is actually "jumping" time. If it were to it would just quite and not crank again.
It varies for the vehicle as far as manufacturer recommendations. Some Volvos should be changed at 30,000 according to Volvo.
Most vehicles timing belts will last for 100,000 miles unless you are driving them really hard. Chrysler used to recommend 60,000 miles for their 3 liter engines until somebody in California got really upset at the price and got a bill passed that prevented manufacturers from requiring customers to pay big bucks for required maintenance while the vehicle was still under warranty. What did Chrysler do? They changed the interval to 100,000 miles. Without changing anything else.
Most Hondas and Toyotas will go 100K easy but don't push it. As a mechanic for twenty years I saw a lot of Hondas with 105K that bent valves because they didn't change the belt.
Check the owners manual and take your particular style of driving into account.
That should have been marked on the intake manifold, towards the rear of the engine.
The firing order is correct! However, it has a timing belt, not a chain. The water pump is driven by the timing belt, so replace that while your in there. And Make sure the crank and cams on on TDC before you put the belt on!
Both engines (US Models) use timing chains. Upper and lower chains in the GA16DE (1.6 liter engine) and a single chain the the SR20DE (2.0 liter engine).
Would have to change pulleys for sprockets
Buy the repair manual for the car. It will pay for itself quickly.
1) Rotate crankshaft to align the flywheel pointer to TDC of the No. 1 cylinder compression stroke.
2) Make sure timing pointer must be aligned with the white mark on the flywheel; the cam pulley must be set so the small dot or the word UP is vertical and the marks on the edges of the pulley are aligned with the surface of the head.
3) Fit the belt to the engine and slide it onto the cam pulley. Loosen the adjusting bolt slowly, allowing the adjuster to move against the belt. Tighten the adjuster bolt temporarily.
4) Install the lower timing belt cover.
5) Install the crankshaft pulley and key.
6) Adjust the timing belt tension. Loosen the adjusting bolt. Rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise until the camshaft pulley has moved 3 teeth. Tighten the adjusting bolt to 31 ft. lbs
7) Install the water pump belt and pulley, drive belts
8) Install upper timing belt cover and valve cover.
9) Start the engine, allowing it to idle. Listen carefully for any indication of the belt rubbing or slapping the covers.
A Commemorative belt is the same size as the original but its made of plastic. The Replica Belt is also the same size but its made of metal, so its more authentic.
I don't know the newer fuel injected engines that well, but the timing setup should be the same. Your best bet would be to pick up a Haynes manual for your truck and follow the directions.
Read about how to find Top Dead Center on the compression stroke for the #1 piston. You start from there. The timing mark on the cam gear must also be aligned with the pointer on the engine block under the timing cover.
If you pull the distributor cap you can verify that the rotor contact is at the #1 post to be sure you have TDC on the compression stroke.
Then you release the spring tensioner pulley under the timing cover with a large prybar or screwdriver and install the new belt.
Turn the crank pulley clockwise with the tranny in neutral and the e-brake on to make sure nothing is binding before starting it up again.
Good luck. It's not that hard, just methodical.
Its not as easy as that!You also need to take off the crankshaft pulley in order to put the belt onto the sprocket on the crank shaft.Also you cant simply turn your crank until the rotor aligns with #1 wire terminal , because if the belt is broken then the rotor wont turn , this is because the oil pump sprocket is independent from the crank sprocket, the oil pump sprocket is what turns your distributor.You can still turn the rotor manually though.
Unless it is a DIS ignition. Then you don't have to worry about the rotor. However DO NOT use anything but a harmonic balancer puller (i know it should go without saying..but...) because if it is a DIS then the Harmonic Balancer has very thin fins on it for the CPS. Once you get TDC and the balancer off..the new belt will slide right on and then reverse the steps
Just a minor point here, the 1990 2.3 will be a DIS.
My 1986 Mitchell manual shows a TFI module in the wiring diagram which would indicate the presence of a distributor. My 1990 Ranger is a DIS system so somewhere between 1986 and 1990 Ford went to DIS.
The transmission is damaged, You will need to take the vehicle to a ford dealership to have the transmission replaced, or fixed. 9 times out of 10 it is cheaper and more reliable to just replace the transmission. My 1996 Ford Taurus Had the same problem in 1997 then again in 1998. Taurus transmissions tend to tear up easily if abused. Make sure that your not grinding gears. Make a full stop then change gears when backing, or vise versa. Also, Check the Transmission fluid levels at least once a month. Also make sure that whenever parking the vehicle that you use the parking brake. The automatic transmission should NOT be used as a braking device!
The most common problem with this transmission is the forward control valve
it cost about $10.00 and 3 hours to put in.
remover battery post pos side remove all belts remove crank pulley may need a puller remove timing cover turn engine to top dead center no.1 piston up marks on cams with marks on timing cover crank key should be at 12 oclock.replacing water pump an all idler pulleys should be done
Go with a chain! That way you can easily change the gear ratio and do WHEELIES all the time!!! That's what I'm talkin about... WHEELIES
In addition to the comments listed above, I shall simply make one or two comments: I have ridden bikes with shaft drive up to 15 yrs and never, ever had to do any maintenance on the shaft whatsoever. If you're a "gearhead" that likes tinkering with your machine, get a chain. If you don't like to do mechanical work, get a shaft. I personally love my shaft drive. One less thing to break down on the road when I'm 80 miles from the nearest town. Having said that, the bike itself is more important to me than what type of drive it uses. I am a big fan of fluid-cooled engines, however, which I strongly prefer to air-cooled.
Timberwoof's Motorcycle FAQ lists these advantages and disadvantages of shaft drive and chain drive:
One other negative with chain drive is it is easy to lose a finger tip (between chain and rear gear) if you try to clean the chain with a rag while the letting the rear wheel spin in gear, on centerstand-equipped bikes - ouch!
From what my friends tell me traction is better with the shaft drive. but shaft drive has a smoother ride.
I think the question is how much time do you want to put into maintenance, tempered by how much you want to pay for repairs when the shaft breaks or has a problem. Does the time and effort for maintenance of a chain outweigh the cost of fixing a break on a shaft drive that perhaps could come on a long ride out in the middle of nowhere? Chain is easier to find & fix than a shaft drive system, you might even be able to do it yourself. Little chance of a do it yourself job on a shaft drive.
I'm on my third shaft drive bike and I wouldn't go back to chain drive. The reasons being the smooth, quite ride and the minimal maintenance of these systems.
One respondent to this debate mentioned the cost and inconvenience of a breakdown with shaft drive vs. that of a chain. I have had a couple of chain repairs and cost is minimal to get back on the road. I'm sure cost to repair a shaft drive would be considerably more. But, I have not had a single problem with any of the shaft drives that I have owned. And I have ridden them pretty hard at times, almost to the point of being abusive.
Chain drives are somewhat more efficient than the shaft drive, and also somewhat cheaper. Means better fuel mileage, and more efficient transfer of power to the wheel. There is more maintenance on a chain than Shaft Drive, but it's rediculously easy. I consider the only real positive side to the shaft drive would be, that they are smoother.2 centsI just switched to a chain driven bike and regret it; the chain part that is. Overall upgrade in motorcycle, but I prefer the shaft drive. Low maintenance and not a noticable change in ride... the seat lifts up under acceleration, but that wasn't so bad. And that earlier post of a break down on a shaft bike is bogus. I'll bet you know more riders with broken chains than those with broken shafts. Keep the reservoir full and watch for leakage and you won't have any problems.
Chain versus shaft, well, who is to say.
If you like the idea of being able to quickly adust your final drive, go with a chain. There aren't any problems with a chain, in fact, most modern bikes have auto chain tensioners, like the GPX250.
Personally, I would go with a chain, simply because I grew up with them. In addition I have found that the kind of bikes that I like are all chain driven. You usually dont have a choice, a sports bike is a chain, while big tourer is a shaft.
Another negative aspect of chains is that they are dirty, both from spraying grease around and in the maintenance. Shafts are clean, quiet and neat. They are also costly both in the chains themselves and the sprockets, which wear out over the life of the bike, although probably not as expensive as the initial cost of shaft drive.an ANSWER you haven't see yet...Hey kids, consider the alternative - BELTS. In addition to being long lived (life/100k miles on Buells), they are quieter, cleaner and lower maintenance due to no lubrication requirements, they are much lighter (~1 pound in weight versus 4.5+ pounds for chain). This means lower unsprung weight, and advantage in both handling and ride comfort. Also, they do possess a certain capacity for vibration damping. Another answer that continues the legacy.....I prefer chain drive Shaft Drive: Shaft drive is more reliable and easier to keep than chain, but is heavier and more expensive.Chain drive: Used scince the early 1900's, Chain drive is easier to "tinker" with but can slip or break..oh something you may not have heard yet...there are 2 chains used.
The manufacturer's mileage recommendation has been met. Something like 60 to 100 thousand miles. The appearance of the belt won't usually change, and an inspection won't tell you anything.
If the belt breaks, there's a good chance the engine will be severely damaged. The damage is instant; the valves hit the pistons and bend or break. So unlike a lot of maintenance jobs, you don't want to wait for it to fail. It's not like the serpentine belt (the one you can see.) If the serpentine belt fails, the car won't necessarily be damaged right away (but it might overheat, the battery won't charge, and the power steering will be manual).
Try a bentley manual. I guess it could not have the "240d" specifically. A parts sight may have an exploded diagram.
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