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This answer applies to any car. Avoid hard acceleration. Accelerating all the way to where you have to lift and apply the brakes wastes fuel.Keep the speed below 60mph where possible. Just overcoming the wind resistance at highway speeds causes much increased fuel consumption. Don't let the car sit and idle. It is not necessary to warm a car up in cool weather. Start it, let it reach smooth running and drive it. It is all a matter of physics. You are using a fuel to produce heat energy and then producing heat energy at the brake assemblies to scrub off inertia.I drive my cars on an average of 8 years and the brake pads are not over 30% gone. If you have heavy brake pad dust accumulation on the front wheels, you are not driving the car conservatively.And yes,I'm an old fart. But I have never wrecked one in almost sixty years of driving. AARP safe driving instructor.

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Here are opinions and answers from FAQ Farmers: * The timing chain tensioner is a snap...getting to it is the problem. You have to undo the engine mounts and pivot the engine down, as well as remove the front right fender liner and wheel (possibly remove some suspension components also) to get the cover off. Just disregard that last part if you are already to the point of resetting the timing. If I remember there are two pieces to the tensioner (for a Grand Am anyway), but there were also different models of the same part available from GM, a pivoting assembly with a wheel on the end of it and a bolt to tighten it. Also be careful to put everything back correctly because for some reason GM thinks that the timing chain is a good place to run the water pump off of. * If you are installing the old tensioner you will need to compress the piston on the tensioner slowly with a vise. You will see a hole in whitch you can put a small "pin", line up the holes and slide it in being careful to get all the way through to the other side. Failing to do so could crake the aluminum housing. If you are installing a new one, it should go on the same way you took it off.

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for the cam gears its right on the upper timing belt cover plate, and for the crank, theres a mark on the crank collar

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6 timis

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Usually if you look between the two metal ends there is a glass tube, in the tube is a metal wire, it can be of various size, if this wire is broke, burned or not visable the fuse is blown or bad.

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Timing marks for twin cam 1.6L B6 engine. When crank pulley is at TDC on the compression stroke, 'E' & 'I' on the camshaft pulleys should be at 12 o'clock. Too easy.

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Ford Escorts from 91 to present don't have timing marks because the timing is controlled by the engine computer.

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no

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No, it has a chain.

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You need to ask yourself one question - do you love them? If the answer is yes it wouldn't matter if you lived 10 hours apart. Everything is worth it for love. If you're not sure you love them, go out on some dates and compare them to your guy. You will soon see how special (or not) he is and whether he is worth the effort. If you both feel it's worth it, then it is. It will be a bit harder than a "normal" relationship, but if you want to be together, you can make it work. If it's really worth it then move closer to each other. If you're completely serious about it then get married and move into the same house. Otherwise... no. Well speaking from experience, If the other person is mutually serious about their feelings for you and willing to put forth an earnest effort to make the relationship grow into more than just being friends or hanging buddies, then I would say yes. True love will not be hurt by time spent apart or distance. However, keep in mind that in order to get to trully know someone you have to spend time talking with them and being in their company. Get to know all you can about this person by asking as many questions as you can and listening to what they do say as well as to what they dont say. Good Luck your going to need it.. answer If you both love each other then yes. Do you dread going over there? If you do then you only like that person. If no then you love her & it dont matter how far away you live from each other.

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Replace every 60,000 miles. This is an interference engine and as such if they belt breaks you will have serious engine damage.

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It varies for the vehicle as far as manufacturer recommendations. Some Volvos should be changed at 30,000 according to Volvo.

Most vehicles timing belts will last for 100,000 miles unless you are driving them really hard. Chrysler used to recommend 60,000 miles for their 3 liter engines until somebody in California got really upset at the price and got a bill passed that prevented manufacturers from requiring customers to pay big bucks for required maintenance while the vehicle was still under warranty. What did Chrysler do? They changed the interval to 100,000 miles. Without changing anything else.

Most Hondas and Toyotas will go 100K easy but don't push it. As a mechanic for twenty years I saw a lot of Hondas with 105K that bent valves because they didn't change the belt.

Check the owners manual and take your particular style of driving into account.

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123456

That should have been marked on the intake manifold, towards the rear of the engine.

The firing order is correct! However, it has a timing belt, not a chain. The water pump is driven by the timing belt, so replace that while your in there. And Make sure the crank and cams on on TDC before you put the belt on!

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Both engines (US Models) use timing chains. Upper and lower chains in the GA16DE (1.6 liter engine) and a single chain the the SR20DE (2.0 liter engine).

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Would have to change pulleys for sprockets

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Buy the repair manual for the car. It will pay for itself quickly.

1) Rotate crankshaft to align the flywheel pointer to TDC of the No. 1 cylinder compression stroke.

2) Make sure timing pointer must be aligned with the white mark on the flywheel; the cam pulley must be set so the small dot or the word UP is vertical and the marks on the edges of the pulley are aligned with the surface of the head.

3) Fit the belt to the engine and slide it onto the cam pulley. Loosen the adjusting bolt slowly, allowing the adjuster to move against the belt. Tighten the adjuster bolt temporarily.

4) Install the lower timing belt cover.

5) Install the crankshaft pulley and key.

6) Adjust the timing belt tension. Loosen the adjusting bolt. Rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise until the camshaft pulley has moved 3 teeth. Tighten the adjusting bolt to 31 ft. lbs

7) Install the water pump belt and pulley, drive belts

8) Install upper timing belt cover and valve cover.

9) Start the engine, allowing it to idle. Listen carefully for any indication of the belt rubbing or slapping the covers.

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A Commemorative belt is the same size as the original but its made of plastic. The Replica Belt is also the same size but its made of metal, so its more authentic.

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I don't know the newer fuel injected engines that well, but the timing setup should be the same. Your best bet would be to pick up a Haynes manual for your truck and follow the directions.

Read about how to find Top Dead Center on the compression stroke for the #1 piston. You start from there. The timing mark on the cam gear must also be aligned with the pointer on the engine block under the timing cover.

If you pull the distributor cap you can verify that the rotor contact is at the #1 post to be sure you have TDC on the compression stroke.

Then you release the spring tensioner pulley under the timing cover with a large prybar or screwdriver and install the new belt.

Turn the crank pulley clockwise with the tranny in neutral and the e-brake on to make sure nothing is binding before starting it up again.

Good luck. It's not that hard, just methodical.

Its not as easy as that!You also need to take off the crankshaft pulley in order to put the belt onto the sprocket on the crank shaft.Also you cant simply turn your crank until the rotor aligns with #1 wire terminal , because if the belt is broken then the rotor wont turn , this is because the oil pump sprocket is independent from the crank sprocket, the oil pump sprocket is what turns your distributor.You can still turn the rotor manually though.

Unless it is a DIS ignition. Then you don't have to worry about the rotor. However DO NOT use anything but a harmonic balancer puller (i know it should go without saying..but...) because if it is a DIS then the Harmonic Balancer has very thin fins on it for the CPS. Once you get TDC and the balancer off..the new belt will slide right on and then reverse the steps

Just a minor point here, the 1990 2.3 will be a DIS.

My 1986 Mitchell manual shows a TFI module in the wiring diagram which would indicate the presence of a distributor. My 1990 Ranger is a DIS system so somewhere between 1986 and 1990 Ford went to DIS.

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remover battery post pos side remove all belts remove crank pulley may need a puller remove timing cover turn engine to top dead center no.1 piston up marks on cams with marks on timing cover crank key should be at 12 oclock.replacing water pump an all idler pulleys should be done

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The manufacturer's mileage recommendation has been met. Something like 60 to 100 thousand miles. The appearance of the belt won't usually change, and an inspection won't tell you anything.

If the belt breaks, there's a good chance the engine will be severely damaged. The damage is instant; the valves hit the pistons and bend or break. So unlike a lot of maintenance jobs, you don't want to wait for it to fail. It's not like the serpentine belt (the one you can see.) If the serpentine belt fails, the car won't necessarily be damaged right away (but it might overheat, the battery won't charge, and the power steering will be manual).

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Try a bentley manual. I guess it could not have the "240d" specifically. A parts sight may have an exploded diagram.