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It seems to be accessed from inside the front passenger footwell - try http://furmanka.blogspot.com/2006/08/20k-swonick.html for pictures. Oops - no Dead Wrong. I just did the job and it took about 30 mins. Park wipers in vertical position

Open bonnet / hood

Disconnect battery neg terminal

Working inside engine compartment...

Remove plastic tray which runs across back of engine compartment under wiper mechanism - remove 3 screws and ease forwards and to left

Pull on bottom tab just to left of central plastic vertical bar on pollen filter to bring filter holder forwards about 3 or 4 cm

Slide, wiggle & fiddle holder and filter to LEFT until it comes out of wiper mechanism area Remove old filter and insert new one into holder, then gently guide and wiggle the filter holder back along the space below the wiper mechanism until it is all the way to the right, and then push the lower edge until it clicks back into place.

Replace plastic tray and replace the 3 screws. Reconnect battery. Done.

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secondary backup lamps

Remove secondary backup lite retaining nuts.

Remove secondary backup lite assembly.

Push secondary backup lite assembly outward from rear fascia.

Remove the socket. Twist socket and pull outward.

Remove the bulb. Twist the bulb and pull outward.

License plate lamps

Remove the license lamp retaining screws.

Remove the socket.

Remove the bulb.

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I have a vw sharran on a 53 plate could someone please tell me where the front fan resister is thanks lee

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Did yo replace the oil pressure sender?

You did not mention any thing about your truck making a nockingnoise when the oil pressure falls.Take note when it falls and iftheres a knock. A hot engine willproduce lower oil pressure than acold one. Oil gets thinner whenit's hot. The hotter it gets thethinner it gets. You could haveexcessive bearing ware thruogh outthe engine or even one bad bearing. That would cause low oilpressure. Only way of fixing it isa engine overhual. But if your engine does not knock I would runit as long as i could. Also checkthe oil and make sure you don'thave any metal shavings in it. Ifit doesn't then run it with a little heaver oil. Also sounds like your engine may have been overheated at one time this has an effect on premature bearingware.

It's the basic concept, the faster the rpm's the more oil flow you need. You said it was a ford? Most fords after 87's have started tuneing their engines and oil pumps to operate with one another, meaning the oil pump isn't needed as much when its sitting at a standstill. Since the engine is just at an idle, yet when its in neutral the idle raises a bit more since its not in gear and isn't being bound up.

if the oil pressure does this whin the engine worms up and not when its cold then you need to replace your inserts and maines as they are worn, the inserts and maines is what holds the oil pressure in the engine.

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Heres a couple thoughts and a link that may help. If fuel is a question, spray starting fluid in the carb while cranking. Make sure your plugs are dry and clean. Carburetors are funny old animals that need attention and give headaches like you have.

http://www.carshop.com/auto101.html

If you mean cranking...

1. Lack of proper ignition key. 2. Automatic shifter in 'drive' or 'reverse'. 3. Battery disconnected or defective. 4. Defective crank sensor. 5. Defective starter motor or solenoid. 6. Seized engine. 7. Security system tripped.

I've seen all of the above while working in service.

If you mean cranks but won't start.

1. Spark. 2. Fuel.

I check spark first, less messy.

a short circuit somewhere

A car will not start if the gear selector is not aligned properly. Sometimes it is necessary to move the gear selector back and forth several times so that the alignment will be corrected and car will start.

A fuel pump on its way out will also cause a car to not start. Think crank crank crank crank crank (man my hand is cramping) crank crank crank crank...nothing.

If you are asking about what will keep a Grand Cherokee from starting the factory alarm will if you have changed the battery or if the jeep has been sitting up for a while you do the same as if your alarm was sounding lock the doors unlock the drivers door with your key and try starting I have had to do this to mine after it had been sitting while I was rebuilding the front differential.

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http://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc37.shtml It lives under the cover at the rear RHS of the engine bay tucked under the windscreen. Remove the 8 mm setscrew holding the outer cover in place and you will see it. ;there are three plastic screws hold the lower windscreen trim turn them 1/4 turn ONLY anti clockwise otherwise they will break.Gently prise downwards the clip which holds the two halfs of the windscreen trim in place and remove it. There are two clips hold the remaining half of the pollen filter cover in place and it comes off forwards. Dont be too rrough with any off this or you will have a lot of burst bits of plastic and a bit repair bill. Also start with he wipers parked half up the screen .Good luck !

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Someone has either reversed the wires on the temperature gauge or damaged the wires from the engine to the gauge and spliced them back backwards. It is a simple reverse of polarity.

First, check your thermostat, your car may actually be overheating slightly due to the thermostat sticking. If it sticks then no anti-freeze flows through the heater core(providing the cab with heat), which will cause overheating. If it eventually opens, allowing flow, and cooling off the fluid/engine (gauge drops) then fluid flows again giving you anti-freeze through the heater core and heat pours out. Check it by removing it and putting it in a pan of water and boiling the water with a thermometer in the pan (try to hold them both off the pan surface with tongs, it may screw up your reading), watch close for the temp at which it opens, should be 180F, but check for your car.

Second step would be to check your water pump, low flow from a water pump could also cause the same problems.

After those two, "you're on your own kid"

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There are two screws on the top underside that you must take out. then the bulb is attached to a wire and you can pull it down about an inch to help pull out the bulb. put in the new bulb and screw the screws back in and youre all set. -richard

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The mass air flow sensor is located just after the air cleaner,before the rubber hose that goes to the intake.A little black box attached to an aluminum ,with a 3 wire connecter.

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If you mean on a car it is simple, I think you are looking for more HP's. If this is the case buy a larger one unclamp the old one and plug it in to your wiring harness where you unlpuged the old one. Go to Summit Racing.com and check them out. I hope this helped.

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You need to check a few things first: - 1) do you have a front fog light switch. If not you are on a non starter till you get one 2) Is there a space in the fuse box for a relay beside the rear fog light relay 3) If 1) and 2) are sorted then put a relay in the spare slot (you can use the rear relay as a temp) and switch the main lights on. Then press the front fog light switch. If you hear a click then you are half way there, if not give up the idea of integrated lights. 4) If you get the click and your model did not have foglights as standard then you will probably find that there is no wiring between the relay and the front air dam. Nice of them really. 5) although the mounts for front fog lights should be there any plugs at the foglight end seems to be a bit of a hit and miss affair. Hope this is of some use. Peteroadie

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Doubtfull, there was not many bikes in 1987 that were fuel injection. If it has carbs it wont need mass air flow meter as the fuel is mixed in the carb, fuel injection spits the fuel directly into the cyl in which case you need air flow sensor to ensure correct fuel/air mixture.

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The MAF sensor is between the air filter housing and the throttle body. The removal should be straightforward with simple hand tools. Handle the new sensor with care, and be sure to place a small amount of dielectric grease on the connector for the wiring harness. Be sure to carefully reassemble the connections from the throttle body to the MAF, and on to the filter housing, as any air leaks will cause drivability issues and could allow dirt to enter the engine.

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Best bets: leaky windshield or passenger side window molding.

you might want to take the cover off that goes across the lower front part of the windshield usually this includes removing the wipers look for a obvious hole or crack in the joints if none are there put a garden hose up in this area and turn water on then get inside car on passenger side and look to see where water is coming from,

As a certified auto mechanic, I am often asked this very question. I usually recommend closing the passenger side door when leaving the car for the night. Other solutions are possible of course (some people prefer to carry a large roll of cling-film in the glove compartment and use it to seal the passenger-side doorway after parking), but I believe this is the most efficient and time-effective solution. It also makes use of a little-know design feature of the car, its hinged and fully-locking doors. How's that for serendipity?!?

I own a 1996 Grand Am GT and it leaked on the passenger side. (Apparently, these cars are notorious for this type of leak.) After checking the windshield and the seals, the problem was actually a cracked seal behind the firewall. When I pulled the carpeting up and underneath the glove box area, I could see beads of water were forming in a small hairline crack where the seal is. Pull the carpeting and the rubber back and take a look there if all else fails. The problem was back behind the firewall, and the water found entry at the point of least resistance, as it pooled at that spot with nowhere to drain due to the design of the car. I had it fixed for about $250.00. No leaking since!

Darline

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The parts will only work if you use an oil pump that goes with the chosen shaft. In other words, one must use a 27 spline shaft with a pump made for 27 splines. And to use a 30 spline pump you must use pump made for 30 spline shaft. Then you run into the complication of 30 spline pumps are made for 1987 and newer transmissions which have an auxilary valve attached to the valve body surface. So you now have to go out an buy a 87 or newer trans case. Meanwhile the dollars are flying out of your wallet. Finally the torque converter is also matched to the input shaft. So to make a long story short. If you have a 82- 86 700r4 with a 27 spline shaft keep it the same, or if you 87 or newer 700r4 has a 30 spline shaft keep it.

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replace the heater temperature switch

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the engine will start up and run for a few seconds then quit

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not quite sure yet but im in the process of installin one with the help of x-speed here in Perth w.a so watch this space and i will tell you very shortly

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In Western Australia (WA), NT and the ACT it is legal to drive a LHD car provided it is over 15 years old. In NSW, QLD, SA and VIC it is legal provided it is 30 years old. In SA the car must be stock.

Club Rego. In almost all states you can get what they call club rego for any car you like (i.e left hand drive) as long as it is roadworthy. You have to be a member of a club and you cant drive the car more then 40km's from your house unless you are on a club run.

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I have the same problem with my 94 and I think that the problem lies with the stearing column, my column the flasher button got broke and now the tilt wheel wont work and eversence that happened my flashers won't work right.

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EPC means Electronic Pedal Control. Volkswagen uses an electronic system, not just a cable running from the gas pedal to the throttle, to control engine speed. It would make implementing cruise control REAL easy, if nothing else. If you have an EPC light on...that's the car's Check Engine light.

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I had that problem on the drivers side... As it turned out, the nylon drive belt inside the track had slipped on the sprocket, thus ripping through several gaps in the belt. It's not really a "BELT" since it is not a closed loop, but open ended, with holes that fit the drive sprocket, and efectively pushes and pulls the seatbelt up and down the track. This belt, track, and drive motor are available as an assembly, and requires some of the interior plastic panels to be removed. A screwdriver and a socket wrench is all that's needed to make the repair. I haven't acctually replaced mine yet, our state law only requires the lap belt, so I'll save the money for now and make the repair when I'm ready to sell the car. Besides, I really hated that dang thing! And the shoulder belt can be un-screwed from the seatbelt carrier, which is attached to the "belt" I mentioned earlier, and retracted right back to the rear floor. Check your state laws to verify your vehicle is still legal with only the lap belt. Keep in mind, if your insurance finds out that you've bypassed it, you may lose the deduction for active restraints.