I'm usuing this site to help me do mine: http://www.wlsheadliners.com/tutorials/volkswagon/vw_beetle_headliner_replacement.html
My car is a 2000 but I'm sure theres not too much difference between the 99 and 01 headliners
There are 4 bolts in the back of steering wheel these are to remove your air bag then it will come off there are 2 plugs 1 is power to the air bag the other is the power for the horn if you use a after market wheel no air bag or horn though after that there will be a big bolt in the middle that holds it on i think its a 17 or 18 mm i put a pole on my wrench when i did mine its really on there then pull on both sides back and forth till it pulls off or get a puller but i did mine with out one when you take it off there is a black ring where the new hub will go to get this off take the steering column trim off there will be 4 bolts going around it and it will come off unplug its connector and your done
Check the neutral safety switch
Check battery cables for looseness or corrosion
change the ignition starter relay found in the engine bay goggle ignition starter relay to view it.
Remove the alternator belt from your 2000 Chevrolet Monte Carlo alternator. Remove the wiring harness from the alternator. Remove the alternator retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new alternator.
Does this use a 2.2L Ecotec engine? If so,the #1 ign. coil and #1 spark plug are used in combination to provide the functionality of a camshaft position sensor. Often, a worn spark plug can set a code if that's why you're looking for the sensor.
First of all, make sure your check engine light isn't on. If it is, it could very well be a computer related problem. If it's not on, how much voltage are you getting? You should be getting over 12V at power end of the coil. If not, it won't supply enough current to overcome the resistance of the spark plug gap. At the end of the coil leading to the distributor, you should have a very high voltage in which should be tested with a clamp type multimeter at the bare minimum. That will tell you if your primary system is working properly. If it is, make sure your connections are tight, your secondary wires are in working order, and make sure your distributor/cap/rotor are working properly. That should work.
there is few options
1. record vehicle vin number and bring proof of ownership to dealer.
2. locksmith 866-269-5522 they work all over usa they called total bay locksmith good pricing as well.
3.www.carkeycodes.org this website offer 24/7 key codes accuses to car owner who register. free registration
4. get the code from car key codes and then call a locksmith then you save at list $50-$100 per key.
The engine needs to be flushed.the coolant ports have a build up of gunk causing the engine to run hotter. The heated water expands to much causing it to over flow from the reserve tank.
The 2006 Toyota coolant temperature sensor is located on the front of the engine. The coolant temperature sensor will be a few inches above the thermostat housing.
1-3-5-7-2-6-5-4-8, with the Passenger side bank being 1-2-3-4 front to back and the Driver's side is 5-6-7-8.
engine coolant temperature sensor is faulty. engine coolant temperature sensor is faulty. engine coolant temperature sensor is faulty. engine coolant temperature sensor is faulty. engine coolant temperature sensor is faulty.
Stop running or stop moving? Anyway, not likely unless it's a big truck with a hydovac break system.
go to your local auto parts store and they will have a section of car repair manuals. find yours and it will have the firing order.
go to your local auto parts store and they will have a section of car repair manuals. find yours and it will have the firing order.
It is below the temperature controls/air con or climate control panel in the centre console.
If you look at the bottom egde of the upright part of the centre console, just above the ashtray, you will see a piece of wood grain or alloy trim (depending on your model) about 1/2" high and about 6" long. This covers the OBD diagnostics port.
Remove this by putting your fingers of one hand underneath and simply slide it back out toward you. Job done, To replace, just locate and push back in....simple as that.
The OBD port is to the RHS of the area which has been uncovered, and is usually a dusky shade of pink/light purple.
Hope this helps?
Yes, that is too much... Unless it is a fully loaded GTI in excellent condition with less than 35000 miles, that is Kelly Blue book value. A non turbo medium option/trimmed golf with 100,000 miles in very good condition is only worth around $2,000.
hello they usually have blocks plug and play . but if you have a few hanging loose then hope this helps. blue is remote switch on and off which means when ignition is on stereo will come on, and when off it makes sure its off. red is your live but be carefull keep a selection of fuses to hand if you touch out it normally blows instrument panel fuse. 10 amp best bet to keep handy. now the yellow one is the memory wire saves your stations and bass vol treeble settings. if not wired up properly you will have t keep setting up everytime you turn on stereo. hope this is some what usefull if stuck go to a halfords and try and get staff out for quick look on how to connect what that's how i learned. and tip them a 20 quid and some even install it. good luck from mark
hello they usually have blocks plug and play . but if you have a few hanging loose then hope this helps. blue is remote switch on and off which means when ignition is on stereo will come on, and when off it makes sure its off. red is your live but be carefull keep a selection of fuses to hand if you touch out it normally blows instrument panel fuse. 10 amp best bet to keep handy. now the yellow one is the memory wire saves your stations and bass vol treeble settings. if not wired up properly you will have t keep setting up everytime you turn on stereo. hope this is some what usefull if stuck go to a halfords and try and get staff out for quick look on how to connect what that's how i learned. and tip them a 20 quid and some even install it. good luck from mark
Pre 1997/9 models of Ford Vehicles were self-adjusting via the clutch-foot-pedal. The pedal engages a ratchet system called the QUADRANT & PAWL and is part of the pedal. The mechanism is very similar on older Ford models of: Escort, Fiesta, Sierra, Granada, Transit & others. Newer vehicles may have a Hydraulic Clutch from 1997/9 onwards, and these work differently from the cable & pully mechanism. Clutch-fluid can be bled to improve the ability to operate the clutch, however this is not necessarily a method of adjusting the clutch.
If your reading this article because you have a broken clutch-pedal then please read on.
If when pressing the foot-pedal it feels like cable is broken, or pedal is loose, ...This is symptomatic of failure of the QUADRANT & PAWL 'ratchet' mechanism due to wear of teeth on the ratchet.
In some cases the pedal fails to pull the clutch out far enough to change gear, and may make a 'springing noise'. This is due to slippage on some worn ratchet-teeth, but the mechanism has not reached full failure. There are 2 ways to remedy the fault.
1. Change the Quadrant & Pawl, using only genuine Ford parts. #Beware of inferior mouldings that are not up to standard e.g. too soft, and do not trust 'pattern-parts' on eBay etc.
2. SHORTEN THE CABLE.
There are two small buttons below the LCD display, left for hours and right for minutes. These buttons can stop working with age, and the easiest solution is to either remove the instrument pod fuse or disconnect the battery just before midnight and reconnect at midnight.
Both. But I'd start with a cold air intake. Then do the APR Tune. After you get a turboback exhaust you can get a downpipe file from APR.