Specific instructions will vary by year of the vehicle. Dodge Avenger tail light bulb replacement: Purchase the correct replacement tail light bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the tail light bulb replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for bulb replacement instructions and illustrations. You may want to consider replacing both left and right at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).
Listed on the driver's door post.
Along the top of the valve cover - along the back side. It has a black tube between it and the intake manifold. It is a little black plastic piece in the shape of an "L".
If you spend enough money at it, you can turbo pretty much any combustion engine. But in terms of economy, it's often more sensible to buy a car with the engine set-up that you want already in it.
If I am not mistaking, the Dodge Avenger will be used in Car of Tomorrow races. The Regular Car Version will run the Charger, and the COT Version will be the Avenger the COT will run 16 races, the rest will be the old car races.
you have to tilt and take off belts and push away from fire wall.
on a 2.0 u have to take one bolt from the top and the rest from the bottom and remove wheel well cover and turn wheel all the way to the right and it should wiggle out it takes some doin though
The fuel capacity is 16 gallons.
Basically, you are looking at the same steps as replacing a timing belt. You might find more by searching on "timing belt" as well.
1. remove the alternator and power steering belts. 2. remove the right side engine mounting block 3. remove the bracket for the power steering pump (it bolts into the mounting block bracket 4. remove the engine mounting bracket from the front of the plastic timing belt cover. Unfortunately, these bolts are long and are a pain in the --- as they hit the chassis. You have to do some creative wiggling to get them out. In the factory, the engine is not in the car yet when they put this in :( 5. remove the center bolt from the crankshaft pulley 6. remove the crankshaft pulley with a 3 prong pulley puller -- I had to get a longer pulley center bolt -- the puller assembly I have bottomed out with the stock bolt 7. remove the plastic timing belt cover - lots of screws, little hands are good for the tight clearances to the fender/chassis sub-frame 8. remove the timing belt -- mechanical tensioner in the middle. 9. now you can get to the water pump.
According to my Haynes Repair manual you do the following:
Disconnect the cable from the negativ battery terminal Drain the cooling system Remove the accessory drivebelts (power steering/ac) Remove the crankshaft damper/pulley, the timing belt covers and the timing belt Remove the water pump mounting bolts Seperate the pump from the water inlet pipe and remove the pipe Clean all the gasket and O-Ring surfaces on the pump and water pipe inlet tube. Install and NEW O-Ring on the water inlet pipe. Wet the O-Ring with water to facillitate assembly. Install a new gasket on the water pump and install the inlet opening over the water pipe. Press the water pipe into the pump housing. Install the water pump mounting bolts and tighten to specifications. The remainder of the installation is the reverse of the removal. Refill the cooling system Operate the engine to check for leaks.
(The timing belt removal is tricky...please find that info or suggest a mechanic.
i own a 1992 dodge avenger and when i turn the car off the key will not go past the acceseries position and come out do you have any sugjestions
First of all there is no such thing as a 1992 dodge avenger, the years are from 95-2000 and then theres the 2008 series, anyways, to fix the problem you just need to replace your ignition, you can't fix that part, only replace
You can Deactivate the Belt Minder two ways. First, you can deactivate it temporarily for your current "run cycle", that is after you have started your car and it's still running. Second, you completely deactivate the Belt Minder so that it never reminds you again, or at least until your reactivate it... The first method, temporary deactivation, or one time disable: After you have started your vehicle, buckle and then un-buckle your safety belt. Be sure to buckle back up.... This will disable the Belt Minder only for that ignition cycle. The second method, permanent deactivation: There are 9 steps you need to follow to deactivate or activate your Belt Minder system. Before doing so, make sure that: The parking brake is set. The truck/car is in Park (automatic), Neutral (manual). The ignition is OFF. All doors are closed. The driver's safety belt is un-buckled. The parking and headlights are OFF. Then follow these 9 steps: Turn the ignition switch to ON, but DO NOT START. Wait for the safety belt warning light to go OFF(1-2 minutes). Steps 3-5 MUST be completed within 60 seconds! Buckle, then un-buckle the driver's safety belt 3 times, ending with the belt un-buckled. Turn on the headlights, turn off the headlights. Buckle, then un-buckle the driver's safety belt 3 times, ending with the belt un-buckled. After step 5, the Safety Belt Warning Light will be turned on for 3 seconds. Within 7 seconds of the safety belt warning light turning OFF, buckle then un-buckle the safety belt. This will disable the Belt Minder if it is currently enabled, or enable the Belt Minder if it is currently disabled. Confirmation of the disabling of the Belt Minder is provided by flashing the safety belt warning light 4 times per seconds for 3 seconds. Confirmation of the enabling of the Belt Minder is provided by flashing the safety belt warning light 4 times per seconds for 3 seconds, followed by 3 seconds with the safety belt light off, then followed by flashing the safety belt light 4 times per second for 3 seconds again. After confirmation, the deactivation/activation of the Belt Minder procedure is complete.
== == Go to the Allpar.com site and search for an article by Rodger Koppa on how to do this nasty little job. Did it on both my doors, be prepared to cuss a bit. After you install the new handles you can forestall future breakage by just popping the lkatch with the handle, and then using the edge of the door to swing the door open. Those dinky plastic handles just can't take the side torque with those heavy doors! I used the directions provide by Rodger Koppa to repl;ace my passenger side door handle and it works great. Like he says though be prepared to cuss a little bit and just hope you don't drop anything into the door. Good Luck!!
Driving in 3rd gear instead of fourth will not affect your transmission as much as your engine. In fact, if you are driving in a manner that causes a lot of shifting between 3rd and 4th, it may be easier on the transmission to leave it in 3rd. If your transmission needs fixed, I don't think it would be from leaving it in 3rd gear. As far as cost, it will vary greatly depending on what needs done and what type of car you have.
do it yourself, a socket set, screwdriver, and pliers are all the tools you need. all it should cost is the price of the radiator, around 120.00, and radiator fluid. dont forget to mix your radiator fluid with distilled water, not tap water.
may be on the top where the transmission bell housing connects to the engine.
just above and left of the oil filter if looking from underside of engine. it has a 10mm bolt holding it in. sometimes have to pry and twist to get out.
Well I have a 99 dodge Avenger ES and I've put 3 trannys in it already, so this one should be easy. If your set-up is the same you should have a crossmember that mounts with two bolts in the front and one in back. there is a motor mount connected to it. take all this off. then you can pretty easily access your starter which is located beside your oil pan at the rear of the motor on the front side of the car. there are 4/5 bolts you have to remove. I belive there are two you have two remove from the backside and three from the front side. I hope i could help you out its hard to walk someone through it but once you do it, you'll be able to do it with your eyes closed. I just changed the starter on my wife's avenger. It's not too difficult, but it takes some time, especially for a shade tree mechanic. You must get the vehicle high enough to use a creeper because you have to move around alot under the car. In my case I thought for sure it was a starter solenoid gone bad but that was not the case, so make sure that the starter is the problem. Disconnect battery, remove oil filter, disconnect exhaust at the header, front and rear, remove heat shield, disconnect cable from starter. The starter bolts up at three points through the flywheel case in a semicircular pattern, the bolts are 15mm. One of the bolts is in recessed area and is difficult to reach, a ratchet and socket won't fit, either a small breakover or offset wrench is required. Good luck.
"SRS" means "secondary restraint system". In other words: The airbags. The warning light - not unusual in a fourteen year old car - means get it serviced - pronto. You're life could depend on it.
In the past this use to mean that the brake master cylinder was low on fluid. Or the sensor inside the master cylinder (which is a float) is stuck on the bottom of the resevior.
Check your hood alignment sensor for the alarm and the trunk sensor
It means your tire pressure is low.
Jack the right side of the car up. Take the wheel/tire off. Remove all brake components, undo the pin over the big nut on the drive shaft, get a big enough socket to fit on the drive shaft nut, back the nut out. Pull hard to remove the half shaft. Line the new half shaft up, shove hard as hell to put it back into the transmission, reassemble. Drive and listen for noises. Jack up both the left and right sides of the car, place jack stand on each side, and insure that car is secure. 1) remove the right front wheel 2) get a 1 1/4 inch socket and break bar and you will also need a torque wrench that will go to 180ft/lb for reassembly 3) remove cotter key retaining axle nut to the axle shaft, ask a friend to hold the brake while you break loose and remove the nut. 4) try to push in the axle shaft if it pushes in the continue to number 5, otherwise go to 13). 5) remove the two 17mm bolts that retain the brake caliper, and support the caliper so that it doesn't hang by the brake line( don't want to replace it to do you) 6) remove two 22mm nut holding the two bottom ball joint to the steering knuckle. 7) remove the cotter pin and the 17mm nut that retains the outer tie rod end 8) using a ball joint separator and a tie rod separator break the 2 ball joint and the 1 tie rod loose 9) swing the steering knuckle off of the axle and out of the way 10) using a pin punch or other suitable rod drive the inner C/V joint out to towards the wheel, it may take several hard blows to break it loose but the it will come out easily 11)before reassembly check the condition of the wheel bearing as this is the time to replace it if it needs to be replaced 12) to reassembly just reverse the disassemble described above 13) if you can not push the axle in , then it is frozen to the hub, this can be a bear to get apart, if so do go back to number 5 and do everything else down to number 8) at number 8 also remove the 17mm nut holding the upper ball joint in place and also separate that joint, continue to remove the axle as described and then remove the axle and the steering knuckle in one piece, you will have to suitably support the steering knuckle while driving the axle shaft out of it I was able to you a seasoned piece of oak and a 10lb sledge hammer, but I would suggest taking it to a garage and having it pressed apart, the balance of the reassemble instruction are the same just reverse the disassembly instruction. NOTE, be very careful on cars with anti-lock brakes there is a sensor on the steering knuckle that can be easily damaged
The fuel filter usually goes on the inner frame near the back of the car some where close to the gas tank and a dirty fuel fillter will cause restriction of fuel, if not changed it could cause your fuel pump to burn up thus causing alot more problems because then you would have to drop the fuel tank
actually u access the fuel pump and sending unit from under the back seat and the filter is fight in front of the tank under the car
check your fuses.
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