Check the fan clutch. It could be worn and allowing the blades to hit the comling or the radiator grill. Same with all the belts and tightener rollers. One could have a bad bearing.
Defective starter solenoid.
It's the key or ignition or both I speak from experience I had the EXACT problem.I checked the battery,the starter,silinoid,starter relay and nothing.Everything was still good.I took it to a Ford dealer and had my key replacedand vehicle reprogramed.It worked
Wear and tear in the crankcase and/or power train. Your car is talking to you about budgeting for an expensive repair coming up.
I assume that this is only for A very short time? I also assume that you are talking about A vehicle with only one belt (serpentine),, If this is correct: The likely cause is: The belt is worn out or lose, (or) the belt tensioner is bad.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, If this is not it, Please give more info.
It been my experience that a loud noise when stating a car, grinding may mean the starter is not in right or on it's way out as in replacement.
It's quite likely that one of the mounting bolts that attach the starter to the engine has broken and the remaining bolt(s) are bent, as a result. The bolts should all be replaced ASAP. This is not an expensive repair.
The loud buzzing noise you hear from under the hood when you turn the key to start the vehicle usually means the battery is too low to crank the engine or a loose cable. Some auto parts stores will test the battery free of charge.
This question lacks year, make and vehicle info.
A loud clicking sound that increases with speed is usually the lifters.
Could be anything from needing an adjustment to a bent lifter.
Did the timing belt/chain break recently?
Are there a lot of miles on the engine?
There are a LOT of questions if the vehicle is not present for one to inspect.
Here's a little-known secret: Take it to a shop to have it inspected. Most shops do it for free! Yes, FREE! (Who knew?) THEN you will KNOW what the problem is.
A 1998 Jeep grand Cherokee's rear brakes make lock up and make a horrible noise while driving if there is problems with the rear differential. The pinion may of locked up. A mechanic will be able to help you fix the problem.
Lucas (oil additive) it and pray..if its a rod just drive it easy..if it is spark knock use better gas. answer the door sorry bout that, but if engine is knocking is it at idle, under load,etc knocking can be caused by piston slap,(worn out rings),bad bearings,or simply have engine tuned, all depends where knock is coming from
Usually it is a warning that either you have left your keys in the ignition, or you have left your headlights, interior, or parking lights on.
Sometimes, though, the little switch in the ignition that senses the presence of the key, will stick. Reinserting the key and jiggling it around a bit while removing it will often fix it.
I just had the very same thing happen to me yesterday. My truck had been making that noise for about 2 weeks and then yesterday I went to start my truck and it died on me. My husband put in a new battery and it started right back up! It's alive!! If it is not your battery then it could aslo be your starter, but have your battery checked first. I hope that this helped:)
there is a little metal plate that scrapes the rotor to warn you when your pads are getting too warn down True, if you have rear disc brakes. But if, like most cars built before 2000 and many cars built since, you have rear drum brakes, you probably have a loose spring or something of the like. Drum brakes have springs and cables to hold the shoes in position. If a spring snaps, the shoes will be off center in the drum, causing a grinding sound. They may still work like always. Also important is that rear brakes do only 25% of the work. It's possible that the shoes need to be replaced and the drums turned or replaced even if you are able to stop with no problem. Ignoring a problem with brakes will end up costing a whole lot more money in the long run.
if the car is rear wheel drive, sounds like a u-joint. If it is front wheel drive, sounds like a cv joint. It could also be your engine mounts wearing out. If the rubber insulation has worn out then the engine will shift slightly against the mount and make a clunking noise. This happened on my 96 Nissan Quest minivan.
The sound you are hearing could be coming from bad Tires. As the Tires Feather because of misalignment or suspension issues, they develop an uneven wear pattern. If the noise gets louder as your speed increases, this could be your problem. Get to a Tire Dealer and have your Tires and Suspension Checked. :-) Another noise that sounds like a tire noise is a wheel bearing going bad. IF you take you hand and feeling the tread around the tire, you can tell if there is a smooth feel or a wavy feel or choppy feel etc. Anything other than a smooth feel could cause a roar. IF your struts are original, they may be causing a choppy wear.
Maybe a wheel bearing -does the sound change when turning in one direction or the other? Could be a belt driven accessory that has a bearing going bad. i.e. alternator, water pump, belt tensioner etc.
Hey Mart==Generally just one valve ticking wouldn't cause a power loss. It deoends on what kind of car and engine you have. It could be an injector ticking which would cause a dead miss. GoodluckJoe
More than likely, if the tire is not flat, and the steering wheel shakes, your problem is a bulge in your tire. As someone else has said, it is probably caused by a bad tire. It may have a broken belt. Also, some tires develop flat spots if the car sits too long. Does it happen constantly or just when you start driving? As a last suggestion, I would check that all of your lug nuts are on tight. If a wheel is loose, you might experience sloppy driving - especially going around corners. The problem should be resolved when the wheel falls off. The "bulge" refered to in answer 1, and the "bad tire" in answer 2 is PROBABLY the cause of your problem. However, a "broken belt" very seldom occurs, almost never unless the belt has been "cut" in a severe collision with a sharp edge. Also, answer 2 alludes to what we used to call, many years back, tire "morning sickness," which occured after a nylon belted tire had sat all night on the same part of the tire. The ground contact point of a tire is slightly flattened, and the nylon belts would take a temporary "set," so that until the tire was driven long enough to warm up the tread and nylon belts the temporary flat spot would cause a slight thumping and jarring. I thought that all nylon belted tires had been replaced by steel belted, meaning that issue should be non-existant today. As answer 2 asks and suggests, does it just do it [thump] when you start driving? If so, then it probably is morning sickness, and there is no cure, just live with until it is time to replace the tire(s). Also, you mention a slight shake in the steering wheel, which would suggest that the offending tire is one of your front tires. Even a thumping rear tire can be felt in the steering wheel, BUT you will also feel it more strongly through your seat if it''s on the rear. A thumping front tire can also be felt in your seat, but will feel, relatively, stronger in the steering wheel. The number one cause of bulging spots on radial tires is what is called "belt separation." A tire is made of several layers of belting material laid up like a sandwich, with the layers "glued" together. IF a flaw allows air from within the tire to work it's way into the sandwich, it can cause some of the layers to separate, fill with air, and cause a bulge, or "blister.' Due to the air pressure, this bulge can be very hard, and will cause the tire lift and thumping you describe. Answer 2 also makes a VERY GOOD SAFETY point, in that loose lug nuts on one of the wheels can cause a similar symptom, BUT left on it's own [withour proper retightening], will continue to become looser, until the wheel FALLS OF THE VEHICLE!!!! DO NOT allow this to happen. Periodicaly [spelling?] check the tightness of your lug nuts on all wheels, or have your tire service people do it. It could save your life!!!! Also, check and adjust your tire pressure REGULARLY, weekly at a minimum.
I turned off the AC panel, turned the key counterclockwise, set it back to off, then back to on and then it started back up. I took a few seconds in between each turn of the key. Hope this works
If its a high pitch noise and its not rubbing on the wheel well, its probably your power steering going down additional info: A cheaper thing to look at would be this: It may be that the tire is contacting the platic fender liner in the wheel well. Did you just replace the tires and go for a lil bit different size than you had? check inside the wheel well for fresh rub marks (clean black plastic and check your tires also for rub marks. I put 235X15 tires on my Limted which were slightly larger than the original equipment and the tire rubbed the liner only when the car was moving and at full steering stop to the right side. The owners manual shows that tire size as compatible with this make and model but I assume that the shocks and other suspension components have sagged somewhat over the years allowing this to happen. I took a sharp blade and carved off a little bit of that plastic from the liner and the problem was solved. You might also have someone look at your shocks etc for wear... Good luck !!!!
From most to least likely:
1. Starter solenoid is not getting power
2. Starter solenoid is bad
3. Starter gear is stripped
4. Flywheel ring gear is stripped
Age of starter is not really relevant. It is possible to get a defective one.
Check electrical connections. Some cars have a separate wire to the solenoid.
Remove starter, look for obvious damage to gears.
If you don't see anything really glaring, like a chunk of flywheel missing, take the starter to any auto parts chain store. Most of them have a testing setup and do the testing for free.
I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it does the same thing. I called the dealer and they said it is most likely the sway bar link/bushings. I'm going to replace today and hope it works since it's an easy fix.
In my experience if the car will not start and it is a rapid clicking sound when turning the ignition it indicates a dead battery. You'll need to get a jump and wait a few minutes before trying to turn the car on again. If the battery is really dead it will take up to 10 minutes to recharge. Each time you try to turn the car on while it is being recharged it will lose the charge it has obtained and you will have to start over in time for recharging it. If you think your battery should not be dead when it is, you may want to get your alternator checked by taking it into any auto parts store as this will drain your battery prematurely.
If the transmission modulator valve is vacuum operated and it goes bad it can allow the engine to suck transmission fluid thru the engine causing the engine to blow blue smoke out the exhaust.
This noise is probably comming from your starter. Either it's going bad or needs a shim. Shims are very common among GM cars. It will work for a while, but you take the chance of tearing up the flywheel and that will cost you a couple-three bills to replace that badboy. It can also reduce the lifespan of your starter.