The sound actually emanates from breaking atomic bonds, and the subsequent rearrangement of the crystalline matrix within grains. This change occurs so quickly, that the material produces a pressure wave (sound wave) that you can hear as a popping sound.
Pretty cool, huh!?
Source: B.S. in Material Science and Engineering from The Georgia Institute of Technology
It can mean many things. most are ment to squeak when the lining materal is getting thin (needs to be replaced) thay do this with a piece of metal that rubs on the disk to make noise ( can cause damage if it not replace in a timely maner).
It is probably the heat shield that is between the converter and the bottom of the car. It does what the name. They can be a pain to fix properly. I have always tried fixing mine but the "rattling" noise would always return sooner or later. I ended up taking mine off. Plus these heat shields get old and tend to vibrate relentlessly. Best best is to have someone you know take a look and see what they can do.
Yes it is, and it can cost anywere from $80.00 to $200.00 to fix.
It is also possible that the ceramic compount "honeycomb" in the catalytic converter is breaking apart and/or broke loose inside the converter. If this is the case, you *might* fail emissions but it shouldn't hurt anything (other than failing emissions).
just buy a clamp for your heatsheild.. its the cheapest and easiest fix.
I fixed my heatshield with a screw gun and some self tapping screws . The shield is spotwelded in place. Find the areas that have came loose and screw, I used 3/8 inch panheads that where galvinized, they hold up to the heat very well and I hav'nt had anymore problems. I did this 2yrs ago and have had no problems.
Because your brakes, when applied, "straiten" the rotor (disk) from a cockeyed angle. To put it simply, your wheel bearings are worn and while driving, the rotor, wheel and tire are at a slight angle. The "wear indicators" (a small piece of metal attached to the pads on the top) built into the brake pads are temporarily rubbing against the rotor. When you apply the brake, it temporarily returns the group back to where is should be as if it were new, stopping the indicators from touching the rotor.
Thought i should add that if your wheel stops squeaking when you depress the pedal it is usually a sign of ball-bearing wear. The wheel will squeak through braking if the brakes are done, or worn.
Tire noise can be caused by the tread pattern used on your tires. Off road tires have a deep tread pattern to give better grip on soft surfaces. Change to a road tire.
Road noise can also be caused by worn suspension components, especially the rubber bushes. Check that yours are not worn. They go soggy or split with age.
It is called pre-ignition, find a friendly mechanic.
What kind of car? engine size? If there is a tensioner and it is weak, it help the belt to squeal. Spray anything wet on the belt -- does the noise stop? If you e the idle without moving will the noise start? Need more info.
This could also be caused by power steering system. Check for leaking tank, low fluid etc.
Have you checked the wheel bearings?
If its not your belts and you got them replaced its possible that your water pump is starting to go.
If you did not get the noise fixed yet, you might want to check on the pulleys where the drive belt is installed and/or the water pump. Pulleys make a high pitch noise when they are worn out either when you first start the engine or during acceleration. Water pump also makes the same noise. Check the little hole above or under the pump, if there is a sign of water/coolant coming out of the hole, your water pump needs a replacement. I hope this can help you.
could also be worth considering your "clutch, thrust bearing", sounds painful I know, not a major job though in the right hands.
In addition to the above, Tires could, PCV valve if not replaced properly on certain engines, alternater.
if its from the rear it could be a fuel pump if your car is efi
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=S001&UserAction=viewSimpleDiagInfo&Parameters=info answer could be bearings wearing out in alternator, a/d compressor,or any other pulleywheel on engine.could also be dry thrust bearing in clutch.need more information, does the noise go away when engine is reved does it get worse if you use a/c,does it happen when stationary or when moving
it could be the cylanders
or you could have a mouse in your car.
i recommend you get a cat
My daughter's car had this problem
It ws in deed the distributer. The price wasn't too bad from autozone. $175 remanufactured plus core charge. The local mechanic charge $20 to install it
I agree with the first answer put down, i have an old car but brakes n wheels seemed fine, there was a problem with the cv shaft, it will cost between 300-400 to fix, i got it reconditioned and my care doesnt make a sound when i brake
You really are going to need to be more specific. What kind of noise are you talking about? Are you asking why noises come out of the engine while operating normally? Are you talking about an irregular noise that you think could be a problem?
Engines make noise because there is a conversion of one energy to another and since a lot of it is wasted energy conversion we observe "waste energies" if you will. Such examples are heat and sound.
Inside a running engine there is a lot happening. Coolant and oil is constantly distributed throughout the engine and results in radiant heat and sound. Pistons are for ever going up and down, adding more sound. Combustion, which makes the pistons move, adds to the heat and sound. Parts that take this power of combustion and deliver it to the driving wheels are moving parts and add to heat and sound. Everything makes noise. Appreciated properly, all these wasted energies add to the beauty of the beast that is an internal combustion engine.
Bad torque converter?
Power steering fluid low?
Bad power steering pump?
Bad bearing on any belt driven accesory I.E. Alternator, Water pump, air pump (if any), a/c compressor etc.
Bad wheel bearing?
I just wanted to add another two cents about the topic of bleeding or burping the power steering system:
1. Know what type of power steering fluid is needed for your car. Some power steering pumps can use automatic transmission fluid, others have specific power steering fluid for each car, i.e. Honda requires and suggests that you use Honda's brand of power steering fluid (see owner's manual). Make sure you know, or the warranty from the dealership or from the parts store may be voided.
2. Before attaching the power steering belt, fill pump with required amount and type of fluid (see owner's manual), and then turn the pulley wheel by hand a few times. This helps cut down on dry turns before they can happen. If more power steering fluid is needed, fill accordingly.
3. Attach the power steering belt with proper amount of tension (see owner's manual).
4. Turn vehicle on and proceed to turn the steering wheel all the way right and left 3-4 times.
5. Turn the vehicle off, and examine that the belt tension is acceptable, and again check the level of fluid and fill accordingly.
6. Always, always check your owner's manual before performing any maintenance on your vehicle. An educated car owner is a safe car owner!Another possibilityHow long has the pump run without fluid? There could be damage inside to the cam and rotor (assuming it's a vane type pump), or to the plates, or it could be cavitating due to the ingress of air -- possibly why the fluid leaked out in the first place.
I too experienced very loud whining noise from my 93 Ranger 3.0's power steering pump at idle, and even louder when turning the steering wheel even a little bit in either direction. I changed the fluid but there was no change in noise. I read in a Ranger forum that if you add some STP oil treatment (yes, STP OIL TREATMENT), not the whole can, it would help. I decided to give it a try and sure enough it has reduced the noise greatly. It didn't completely eliminate it but people no longer stare at my vehicle at red lights because of the noisy pump. That was embarrassing! Ford's pump must be partly to blame since the problem is so rampant among all their various models.
By the way, Mercury is supposed to begin being phased out (discontinued) beginning in 2010 and completely gone by 2012. Only Ford and Lincoln will remain. Just thought ya'll might want to know that since your Mercury's value will likely plummet as that kill-off nears. However, those of you who have a stiffy for Mercs may get a good deal on one before they are gone. I personally don't think they are "all that". Fords in general are pretty low market in build and longevity. I used to favor GM but switched to Honda products in the 90s, they are very long-lived. My latest is a Jaguar and I'm quite happy with it. Yes I know they were owned by Ford and now by Tata Motors but the design is all Jag.
'Knocking' is a technical term for fuel igniting too early in the combustion chamber.
It can be resolved by adding anti knock additives to the fuel or by retarding the timing at the relevant revs. Most modern engines have built in knock sensors that do this automatically.
This one is fairly simple. Almost 90 % of the time it is because the shock absorbers are worn out, allowing the coil springs to oscillate roughly and hit the chassis of your vehicle.
you need a new exhaust job. it would probably be nice. lol
Try new tie rods and/or wheel bearing(s).
Most likely you need a new strut
missfiring cylinder possibly due to fouled spark plug, ignition timing incorrect (leads swapped around). The reason for the backfire is unburnt fuel accumulates in the very hot exhaust system and ignites there.
If the engine is running and did not previously back fire, and now backfires when the throttle is rolled off (on the over-run) then the most likely cause is an air leak either in the inlet manifold, between the carburettor and the head, or in the exhaust system, often where the pipe joins to the engine, or where the silencer joins the pipe.
These backfires are due to a LEAN mixture failing to ignite properly on every cycle and so allowing unburned fuel to build up until it finally goes 'bang'
if it backfires but won't run at all, then it could be several things from the camshaft being 180 degrees out to the spark plug leads (on a twin or multi-cyclinder) being on the wrong plugs.
backfires occur when not all the fuel is ignited in the engine and instead ignites in the exhaust.
Should they squeak? No. on a bike if they squeak you need to lower the break pads so they are inline with your wheel, if you do this and it still squeaks you need new wheels
Can they? Yes, if they are in contact with the rotor (or drum) even when the brakes are not activated. (Does the squeaking change or worsen when you do brake?) Note that this will cause both a significant loss of fuel economy and a rapid deterioration of brake pads and rotors. Look for grit or stuck calipers, and, failing that, consider the possibility of partially activated parking brake shoes (depending on your vehicle) or wheel bearing damage. You could first try applying some graphite based lubricant to the *back* of the brake shoes (never a drop on the surfaces which contact the rotor!!)-- this is sometimes supplied with the pads by the manufacturer so the clips won't squeak against the housing.
Could be a high spot on the disc or if still rust lip on outer edge rotate disc and place flat edge of screwdriver to edge of disc this will dislodge lip clean away all waste when complete ansre assemble brake caliper (all ways use Eye protection when carrying out this job )
No. It is not normal at all. Go to a mechanic and get their opinion. Engine knocks usually signify severe damage, and driving with it will cause even more damage. Always check your oil as well. Make sure it is clean and topped off. knocking can also sometimes mean you have the wrong octane but most of the time it means your tie rods or connecting rods are worn
A knock at idle however can only be bearings, it would be beneficial to get things looked at right away,
Usually, if this sound is of very short duration it is because you replaced the filter. The oil filter on your engine has incorporated an anti-drainback valve which, once removed, removes oil from your engine passages that usually remain filled with oil. Upon starting the engine, it may take several seconds for oil pressure to reach normal levels and achieve quiet operation.
Note that on most fuel injected GM vehicles, the engine should not start until acceptable oil pressure is achieved and this noise indicates unacceptable quality of oil is being used.
Many modern engines made by European auto makers (notably MB and WV) require very specific properties in engine oil. Be sure that you are using an oil that meets the manufacturer's specifications.
If you have a Hyundai 4-cylinder engine and the noise lasts for more than about 3 to 4 seconds you may have an internal engine problem. If the noise persists for a few days or longer, consult with a mechanic.
== == On many vehicles with hydraulic valve lash adjustment (hydraulic lifters or hydraulic rockers) you should not change the oil with a warm or hot engine. If you do so, avoid any highway driving until the engine cools down to ambient temperature. Noise may indicate that you are damaging the engine's valvetrain.
it could be of an old beat up engine and a cylinder is bad..when that goes bad so does the ring..if you have that, it must be replaced.. a.s.a.p. i t could be a shortage of oil, transmission fluid, no oil, bad oil.. It is not abnormal for an engine to 'rap' for a few seconds on the first start immediately after an oil change; it takes a moment for the fresh oil to make its way to the valvetrain. If the rap is persistent, the above answer holds good suggestions 1. check the Oil Dip stick to see if you have oil in the engine 2. What does the oil pressure guage say your pressure is on he dash 3. did you recently fill up with gas that is junky may be 4. it could be a spun bearing, if so you will have to get it fix How to check if it is a spun bearing very simple dran the oil out of your truck Check the Bolt that you took out of the oil pan and see if there are small metal flaks stuck to it, also look up in the oil pan bolt hole to see if you see large metal pieces there. pretty simple cure in most cases just add oil to the filter before installation make sure the filter it top-ed off this should minimze the knock to less then a second I agree with the previous answer of topping the oil filter. In addition, if the noise is still present, change the filter again, and spray brake clean into the oil filter nipple. I would change the oil again at this point.
If a scooter engine is louder than normal if could indicate one of several problems. You should check the oil level straight away, especially if it is a two stroke engine, as lack of oil, especially two stroke can cause major damage to the engine, and if the engine is running dry it would definitely be louder than normal, and could seize if you continue to use it.The most likely cause of the noise is the exhaust. If a hole has developed, due to rust then the scooter will be much louder than normal. You should visually check the exhaust for any damage. You should also check that the exhaust has not come loose at the manifold (where it joins the engine). If it loose you will just need to tighten it. If there is a hole it will need replacing.
You should also take to a scooter dealer or mechanic as soon as possible, as they will be able to find out what is causing the noise, and they will be able to repair it.
I had an extrememly loud grinding soun under my hood one day when my car ran hot i new it was my water pump and i tried to get home and the car stalled out and would no longer start because it shredded the timing belt. I would have someone look at the water pump and the alternator.AnswerRemove the fan belt and start the engine to eliminate alt,water pump. Can do the same for power steering to eliminate the pump. If you still have the noise, the noise is normally engine or trany. AnswerIf it's a grinding noise it can also be one of the bearings in your wheels. Don't take apart your engine just yet. :) AnswerI had this grinding or whirring noise when driving my 86 crx Honda hf model. The solution was replacing the berring in the front wheel hub. Upon inspection the hub itself did not need replacing only the berring. It now is free of the noise. AnswerI have a 2002 Chevy Cavalier and I also replaced the wheel hub bearing assembly. YOU CANNOT take the bearing out of the hub, it is an entire assembly.
i agree check the bearings first... you can do this your self by jacking up the front of the car so the tires a off the ground so you can move them. Once the tires are off the ground you grab the top and bottom of the tire and see if it has play in it ( try to move the tire top to bottom ) if you have play then you need to service your wheel barings or replace them
-your brakes can also make grinding or squealing noises but both at once would not be likely
I had mine just like that. and I remove the 2 belts, remove the water pump and put a new one and you can save the old coolant as long as you did not put it to the dirty pale. It's going to run just like normal again.
There is a tsb on the stabilizer bar links. Actually there are 2 the first one is if there is play in the link, try tightening it and the second is replace them if I remember right. Although not as profitable as a rack, it should be checked first before replacing that rack.AnswerI've had a similar problem which led to the half shaft being bad. If it's rear-wheel drive then exclude my comment AnswerI'm not familiar with your vehicle however i have fixed a similar problem in several cars ive owned if your wheel moves or pops a little then you hear the click or thump then look for where the steering column comes out of the firewall and connects to the shaft coming from the steering box there may be a joint htere that has a rubber type material that joins the two together this joint allows the column to be at a different angle than the lower shaft if the "rubber circle is worn out you will need to replace it. this will cause your steering wheel to move iwerd then you get the thump or it has a little slop in it and it thumps. there are two pins going from the upper shaft and two pins coming from the lower and the rubber circle joins them together it is common for these to wear out. AnswerI had a similar problem. The sound got worse as time went on. At first, before the clickig it was a "whirring" sound that increased as tire speed increased (like a tire wearing badly on one edge). Then it began to click in the turns; first just when turning one way; then the other. This is typical of the wear indications for a CV JOINT going bad. In my case, it was just on the right side. I had FIRESTONE fix it. For the longest time I thought I had bad tires; but it was the CV JOINT.
answer answer the bearings inside steering column,(behind steering wheel) are worn out. replace them soon or you will have to replace the steering shaft in column. bearing replacement will cost you about 60 bucks in a shop. shaft replacement will cost about 250 bucks just to buy the shaft, so don't let this problem get any worse
Noises can be difficult to pin point ---it is usually nesessary to hear them yourself---but another possibility is the bearing in the top of the strut mount could be worn out or dry so when you turn the steering wheel --while standing still--the strutt assembly moves eratically rather then smothly making a clicking sound--Put your hand on the strut tower while turning the wheel and see if you can feel it
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