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O2 sensor is in the exhaust manifold and the filter is in the fuel line somewhere between the tank and the injectors. THE FUEL FILTER IS UNDER THE CAR AT THE REAR,IN THE FUEL LINE NEAR THE TANK. THE O2 SENSOR IN IN THE EXHAUST MANFOLD ABOUT THE SIZE OF A SPARK PLUG WITH A WIRE RUNNING OUT Your fuel filter is located under van driver side along side of frame of van a small can like canister that takes a 10mm socket. make sure you depressurerize fuel line first . The O2 sensor is on the back of the engine. If you crawl on the top of the engine and look down between the firewall and the back valve cover you can see it in the exhaust. It takes a O2 sensor socket to remove it.

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Gm vehicle do not have inertia/reset switches.

Gm vehicle do not have inertia/reset switches.

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35mm

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The specs call for a 16" wheel, but sometimes you see them for 17" or more. It depends on the model and what previous owners have done for it. Typically, they are a 16" alloy wheel

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Sorry I am not sure how to describe this, but this is a diagram of a Bonneville and its in the exact same location,

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OK you have come to the right guy, I just spent the last 2 days on this (for the 2nd time). This is for a 1994 Pontiac Transport Minivan 3.8L engine. First time cable broke I created a small hook in a clothes hanger to snag the cable. This was pretty easy. With hook down and hanger slightly bent downward, snag the cable that's left attached to the hood release by slipping from the front between the hood and the top of the latch, a little right of center and approx. 7 1/2" back. Pull the remaining cable through to the front and you should be able to open hood by pulling hard. Now, the second way, which sucks, because the mechanic who replaced the cable is a moron. If the cable becomes detached you have no choice but to pop the latch. It is done from underneath and you need room. First, remove or bend back, the plastic protective covering under the van the length of the radiator. Next, remove the 2 screws, top & bottom, that hold the radiator fan to the center support, loosen wiring and allow fan to hang as low as possible so you can get your right hand up to the safety latch at the top of the center support. Next, take a long, slender screwdriver and slip the end in next to the safety latch arm above the center post, coming in from the passenger side and angle towards the front of the vehicle at approx. 30 degree upward angle. It may take a few times but you will be able to press the latch and the hood will release. Other articles I have read about removing the grille or taking out the front bolts do not apply to this vehicle, trust me. That hole at the top of the center support where the safety latch comes through is the only access I see where the latch is accessible. Remember to push latch towards the driver side to release.

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If a quad driver has gone bad it is necessary to replace the ECM. After replacing the ECM, drive the car on a bumpy road and note whether the check engine light comes on. If it does, fix the problem or you end up with a repeat QDM failure.

== == == == There is no such thing as a quad driver module. There are quad DRIVERS in the ecm.

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Other than replacing the radiator, which is the best option, I have used the JB weld stick. It is any epoxy putty. Just knead it into a long cylinder, then place it into the crack. Work the putty into the crack very well. Do this when the radiator is cool, for best results. Max heat temp for this product is 300 F. So dont let it overheat. JB Weld stick costs around $5. Good Luck

Not sure if this will help but I have recently discovered that many plastics can be "Welded" using simple PVC pipe solvent.

Cheers

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It is under the gas tank at the rear of the vehicle, and you use the jack handle and another rod to remove it.

Those two pieces are included in plastic package, and fastened together with the sizzor jack.

This is all fastened into a secure position in the rear right side compartment of the vehicle, that you get at by raising the lift gate and unfastening a cover there on the right side.

Once you have retreived the handle and rod from this package, you push the rod into a hole by the bumper, and inside the liftgate opening.

It will be right in front of you knee or thigh as you stand reaching into the liftgate cargo area.

When you put that rod into the hole, and it engages into the spare tire holding assembly you will feel that it is in the correct place.

With the rod in place, attach the handle to this and turn it counter clockwise (it only needs a few turns ), and the tire will drop down automatically.

Once it is down all the way, you hold the tire up and feed the end of the cable or chain upwards through the hole in the wheel to finish releasing it from the vehicle.

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Check out other repair manuals like Chilton and Haynes. If you ask around a dealer or a auto repair shop might provide you with this info never know until you ask or try. , EzForJesus

PS many librarys carry auto repair manuals

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There is not one. Just unloosen all the pan bolts If you're going to take all the bolts out, you'll need to buy six quarts of DEXTRON III transmission fluid to replace the lost fluid. Since you've got the transmission pan off anyways, you should go ahead and replace the filter and gasket. ($12.99 @ Autozone) Also, clean the magnet that is attached to the pan itself.

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You can access the fgo lamps through the wheel wells. Turn the sterring wheels all the way to one side and then the other to give some room to work. you have to remove the retaining srews and the can pull the on the rubber you will then see the connector and the 2 nuts holding the lamps in place. Good luck

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The crankshaft cover is the oil pan, and you remove it from underneath the vehicle. You saftely raise and secure the vehicle with proper blocks etc. Once raised, you make sure the engine is not hot, because you will be working with very hot oil if you don't. A hot oil burn is very painful, because it just keeps burning until you get it wiped off and get something cool on your skin. Drain the oil from the engine and remove all the bolts fron around the circumference of the oil pan. Some will be difficult to get at, but you can remove them and the pan. Sometimes, some models also require you to remove other pieces, and maybe Transmission cooling lines, or maybe even some wires that prevent you from doing the job. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ If you ment to say the Camsahft cover, that is an entirely different situation. That is located on the front of the engine ie. the end where the pulleys are. To remove that, it is easiest to safely block up the passenger side of the vehicle, remove the wheel and the inside of the fender well and other flashings to expose that end of the motor. You have to drain the cooling system, and you also must remove the belt, the battery, the water pump, the steering pump, air pump, and the A/C compressor, just to actually see the Camshaft cover. You have to strip all these parts off the front of the engine and anything else that prevents access to the bolts that hold the cover in place. Even after removing all that, you are still not finshed removing things that allow you to remove the cover. The next major thing to remove is the Harmonic Balancer which also part of the crankshaft pulley assembly. When you have gotten that far, you will see the head of a bolt in the center of the Harmonic balancer to remove. After removing that bolt, you now need a proper puller to remove the H-balancer. (don't scrimp on this puller, because you can actually pull the balancer part off of the entire assembly, if you try using other means to do it. The balancer is mounted on with a rubber and if you separate them, you will damage the function of the Harmonic Balancer (ie. it helps smooth out the engines crankshaft's vibrations due to the firing of the fuel mixture insde the cylinders) Finally you remove all the bolts fron the cover, and usually the cover is stuck onto the front of the engine, so you need to carefully pry it off.

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sensors rarely go out i'd try first check brake fluid top it off this can cause brake light to come on if full check your brake pads and rotors you got to take your tires off any rust will set off the brake light inside your truck if they are fine then you should get your ball joints and tie rod ends checked out by a pro

The ABS light may or may not be lighting due to a faulty sensor. If it is, and it is common to happen, you need to find out which one. Take it to an independent repair shop and they will need to troubleshoot it.

I have the same problem on my Econoline 96, I've taken it to a dealer and several independent shops with no solution. My econoline does this mostly in the summer, and not during the cool days or winter.

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There is a drain plug underneath the radiator It will be on the bottom right if you are facing your vehicle. Then fill from your Radiator.

first you will want to locate the petcock (radiator drain) it should be near the bottom of the radiator on the side opposite the lower hose. simply turn the petcock (do not fully remove) the petcock is designed to let the fluid out without having to be completely removed. in order to expedite draining of fluid remove the radiator cap and there should also be small brass "vent" screw, its located near where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine and also within 2 inches of the thermostat. something else that i do to get some of the fluid from the heater core out is to squeeze the lower radiator hose near the engine block (reachable from the serpentine belt area of the engine.

~squeezing the hose produces a small pressure wave that forces fluid out and lets a little air in. making the draining process go a little faster.

the inlet hose should be the lower hose...

the radiator should have 4 other smaller hoses these are for engine oil and transmission fluid.

i always take mine to the dealer and let him/her to take care of it i trust the dealer to do a good job on my van

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I do not believe so; I never heard of one.

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You need to disconnect the air intake duct, vacume lines, Wire connectors, throttle and Trans down shift, and cruise control linkages. You also need to drain the cooling system down below the level of the T-body. Begin by making sure the engine is cooled down before starting. Assess what is connected to the throttle body and carefully disconnect and remove everything attached to it. The air intake is held together with large hose clamps, and they need to be losened so you can remove the duct. Drain some of the coolant, and remove the coolant pipes from the throttle body. Label and remove the vacume lines, and identify where the wires connect before removing them. After removing all these other things taht are attached to the throttle body, you remove its mounting bolts. The gasket will probably tear, so you need to scrape off the remains be fore you reassemble with a new gasket.

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The township of Blowers is located in the Fergus Falls metro area of Otter Tail County. It is in west central Minnesota maybe 30 miles east of the border with North Dakota.

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the hose that fits on the air filter on my 88 dodge dynasty was taken loose from the motor, I know it fits on to the manifold but I can't find where it hook up. help

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I laid down on the garage floor and reached up through the bumper, not an easy task but it worked.

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You begin by removing the fender support brace on the left side over the battery and disconnect the battery. Then put on the emergency brake and put the car in neutral. There are two engine support braces on the front connecting the engine to the front of the car. They reach over the radiator and connect where the hood latches. Remove these breces but leave the bracket on the engine and the from. Now get a ratching strap and loop it from the frame bracket to the engine. You are goint to rotate the the engine forward by tightening the strap. The engine will roll forward and rotate around the transmission. If the car is not in neutral you will break your motor mounts. With the engine rolled forward it is a reach and a squeeze but you can get to the spark plugs. At a shop the car can be lifted and the pluge accessed from underneath the backside of the engine. Good Luck.

I was able to access the back plugs by jacking the van up, putting jackstands under it and reaching up where the exhaust pipe come down through. It is tight and requires patience, but got it done. Hardest part was getting boot off of plugs

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there are two tie rods on these vans. the inner and outer tie rods. if it is the inner itt is the long shaft type thing that goes right into the steering axle. the outer is where the grease fittings are and it attatches to the knuckle annd the inner tie rod. things that are necessary to do this are new parts, and there is a special tool that you need. they are available and most hardware stores such as Canadian tire to rent. after that you will need an alignment because it will be slightly off balance. when you unscrew the outer tie-rod from the inner tie-rod, count how many rotations you make so that when you but the new ones together it will be as close as possible so that you might not need an alignment.

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personally i would check the oxygen sensor, plugs ,wires,