Look under your dash for a blue box screwed into the right side of the dash panel. This of course is done, with you laying on your back, and your feet in the back seat.

It's a blue box, about the size of half a twinkie (cream filled, golden sponge cake).

Remove the plug that holds it in, unscrew the screw that holds it to the frame, and go to Autozone or other parts store, to get a new relay.

You will have to reuse the metal piece that holds the relay to the dash panel, so be sure and save that before you throw the old part away.

Installation is the reverse.

But don't rush to replace it yet. First, do what my friend learned to do from WikiAnswers -- squirt easing oil down around the Hazard switch button behind the steering wheel, where the "multi-function switch" is located. Be generous with the lubricant. Soak the switch good. Work the hazard switch on and off a dozen times. Then work the turn signal switch right and left a dozen times. If nothing improves, let it sit a few minutes, then try the flashers again. Add more easing oil.

If you have to give up on easing oil, check the fuses for the hazard and the turn signals lights (separate fuses). If they're good, remove the flasher and replace it ($10 at your friendly universal after-market parts store, ($40-50 at your local Ford dealer). Save the receipt so you can return the flasher for a refund, as my friend did after easing oil did the trick.

There is no flasher on the 98 Sable, it has a LCM (Lighting Control Module) Dealer only item unless you wanna take a chance at the junk yard.

there is a light blue flasher relay under the steering wheel check and replace or check the fuse box in the same place

The flasher/turn signal is screwed into the metal support above the fuse panel, you must take the bottom of the dash off and remove the plastic cover. this is for a sable that has light out detection. Any questions, contact chrisvolkswagon@msn.com I know for Real. Look under your dash. Look for a Blue Box screwed into the right side of the dash panel. This of course is done, with you laying on your back, and your feet in the back seat. It sucks to get to, but it's the easiest to access once your under there. It's a blue box, about the size of half a twinkie. Remove the plug that holds it in, unscrew the screw that holds it to the frame, and go to Autozone to get a new relay. You will have to reuse the metal piece that holds the relay to the dash panel, so be sure and save that before you throw the old part away. Installation is the reverse. Be sure to read through the Related Question below on the Taurus - great tips & info that equally applies to the Sable. Flasher relay is located, behind left side of instrument panel. The Flasher sensor looks like a little aluminum can, and is located under the dash (provided they didn't include a dash cover) otherwise you'd have to unscrew it first from all it's mounting screws. The can is mounted on the steering column up a ways, (best way to see is to put your head up there, while your feet rest in the backseat, it's uncomfortable but it works. You'll see two cans, left/right, turn your key to the "on" position, and use the turn signals, and feel each can for a clicking feel/sound. Don't replace that one, unless you don't have turn signals either. Henceforth the other one is the Hazard/Flasher sensor. Pull out the wire clip (it's easier if you slide the can out of it's holding clip, pop in a new one, and get upright before you pass out. Check all of the fuses. If they are good change the flasher which is in the fuse box on some cars. The flasher on most cars is located around the fuse box under the dash, or attached to the underside of the dash. It is a small round cylindrical Can made of aluminum, or plastic.

If your turn signal flashers stopped working, play with the emergency flasher button on top of the steering column. Our 97 Sable turn signals quit once and luckily I pushed the emergency flasher button in and out many times and the signals have worked ever since. But the emergency flashers don't work, but I can live with that.

The turn signal flasher relay is located behind the left hand side of the instrument panel at the left hand side of the steering column.

IT'S USUALLY ON THE FUSE BLOCK UNDER THE DASH ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE. IT OFTEN LOOKS LIKE AN ALUMINUM CYLINDER(SILVER) AN SIMPLY PLUGS IN.

it is truly under the driver-side of the dashboard, but near the outer edge. it is truly a blue cube(original) and held in place with one 7mm screw into a built-in clip. it is left of the code-checking jack and the screw head faces down. once the screw is removed, the cube and harness drop down. there is no retaining clip-thank God-just carefully pry the three-prong cube away from the harness. now, my replacement cube didnt have a place on it for the clip, but the clip can be glued onto the new cube. or, ty-wrap the works in place....But,,, I did find that another's response was correct!!! i didnt need to change my flasher-the hazard switch WAS truly gummed-up!! i used a few drops of alchohol-not wd40 (that scares the electrician in me)-exercised the hazard and turnsignals feverishly and they began working miraculously! and , i appreciated other info on changing those pesky front turn signal lamps! it IS an easy job of removing the three bolts of the headlamp,removing the headlamp to get to the harness of the turn signal and voila!!! I'll even add that my signal lense was full of water, but nothing that a couple of well-placed weep holes didnt fix!! happy motoring!!!

I can;t believe it but the oil works. It worked in 10 seconds. Thanks for the quick fix!!

The flasher relay is located behind left side of instrument panel. Purchase the Relay and you will know what you are looking for.

The three most likely causes seem to be the following:

• Fuses
• Flasher unit
• Turn signal switch on the steering column

Here are some suggestions from our community on how to resolve the problem:

• I had a similar problem. The fix is actually pretty easy. The car is almost 20 years old, has 200,000 miles on it. The connector for the lighting portion of the multi-function switch, is on the top of the TILT steering column. Every time you tilt the wheel down, you pull on this connector. The connector has two locking clips that hold it in place. After time, the connector becomes brittle, and the locking clips break off. That seems to be what happened to my friend's car, that she just purchased. The paint is pretty badly oxidized, which tells me the car was left in the sun a lot, which will speed up the aging of the plastic. One thing that might tip you off, is if you raise the wheel, the lights might start to work again. This is how I fixed it: Remove the battery cable, or you may drain the battery! Under the steering column, there are three Phillips head screws. Remove these, lower the steering column, and remove the tilt lever, Chilton's says you may need a small wrench to remove that lever. Remove the lower portion of the steering column cowl. Insert the ignition key, and turn to the running position. Since you have disconnected the battery cable, the car should not turn over. When you look at the bottom of the steering column, under the lock cylinder, you will see a round spot with a smaller circle in the middle. Use a small screwdriver or awl to depress the center spot. You should now be able to pull the lock cylinder out, and remove the top of the steering column cowl. On the very top of the steering column, you will see the connector to the multi-function switch. If the locking clips are broken, as they probably will be, as your car is now 20 years old, you have a problem. Pretty easy to fix. If you look carefully at the connector, you will notice there are two groups of wires, one on each side, with no wires in the middle of the connector. Pull the connector up, and get yourself some slack! Make certain that the steering column is at its lowest position, and that when you plug the connector in, it is not being pulled on. Then using a small drill, maybe 1/8 inch, carefully drill right next to the little nub that USED to hold the locking clip. Then put a 1" screw into the hole. That should hold it! Now reassemble the steering column. Watch for the "key in ignition sensor contact. The clip that holds that in place is very small. Mine was also broken. I put a little bit of silicone adhesive on it, pressed it back into place, and wrapped two wraps of electrician's tape around it, making sure that the tape was stuck onto itself. I know, this all sounds so tacky! But the car is 20 years old. You are going to need to get creative to keep it running!

• Many vehicles have the hazard switch as a push-on push-off in the top center of the steering column. This is a good place to spray your WD-40 or similar cleaner as the contacts for this switch are often the problem, and being on the top side gravity will help the cleaner flow into the contact areas. Be careful if you use another product to be certain it doesn't contain alcohol or other solvent that can attack plastic. Such solvents introduced into any plastic switch component can destroy it rather than improve the functioning.

• This works! I lost my turn signals and flashers this past weekend and stumbled on this WD40 solution. I have a 96 Taurus. I removed the steering column covers and sprayed in the switch and the hazard button area. I waited several minutes and tried but no luck. I reapplied until the WD40 was dripping quickly from the bottom of the switch. A real soaking. Then I agitated the turn switch for left and right and pushed the hazard button quickly up and down. Suddenly everything clicked in and worked. My guess is dirt and build up on the contacts is removed with the WD40. I also notice that my windshield wiper fluid now works with a slight touch. Previously I had to really push and push at it several times until a shot of wiper fluid would come out. This is a great solution! A new switch is about $120 and a flasher relay about $60. Thanks!

• It may be your flasher, usually a round metal thing under the dash. check the bulbs If all four directional lights do not work, first check fuse, if fuse is good, your flasher is bad. If both your left and right turn signals (dash indicators & front/read lamps) do not come on, check Fuse, Flasher unit is good and plugged in and most importantly, the Hazard Flasher Switch (on some cars) may be unplugged or bad. If your turn signals and flashers don't work it could be your turn signal switch. The flasher lights and the blinkers both went out on my 97 Taurus. After checking the fuses (separate) and bulbs I looked online. I had found others saying that if your door ajar light and your inside light stays on to spray wd40 in the locks and the latch mechanism. Well I had this problem also so I tried it, and after years of not having an inside light this worked. I had previously removed the interior lamp relay because it wouldn't go out. I went back to address my original concern (blinkers and flashers) and I found that the most likely problem would be with the multi-function switch. While trying to get to the multi function switch in the steering column, I couldn't get the tilt steering lever off. I was getting very aggravated so I just sprayed the crap out of it wd40 (I had it there anyway) All I can say is that when they first started working they were intermittent and then fast flashing. I sprayed more wd40 and now the blinkers and the flashers work. Go figure.

• My symptoms were very similar: the windshield washer fluid was hard to activate at first, then would not spray at all so I had the pump and electrical looked at but only a temporary fix, also the right turn signal was intermittent or double speed for a while and for 24 hours didn't work at all and then came back, and just today in very cold weather both turn signals and the hazards failed to turn on at all. Until I read this answer I hadn't put it all together, but when I sprayed the WD40 until dripping in the hazard button on top of the steering column and also into the base of the multifunction switch and into the joint between the windshield washer button at the end of the switch, working everything around vigorously and then letting it sit for 30 minutes, suddenly everything started working again. Turn signals, flashers, windshield fluid. Thanks everyone for this cheap and easy fix!

• I have a 2004 Chevrolet Classic. The turn signals would not work - no lights on dash or even the clicking sound (from the flasher). All bulbs checked out O.K. The hazard lights worked fine. I replaced the multi-switch. Still did not work. I was ready to take to to the dealer to have them trace the wiring. As a last resort, I tried the WD-40 solution on the flasher switch - IT WORKED!!!! I was amazed. Fix Both Flashers with WD40 Squirt! WD40! No kidding!

• Chances are the "multifunction switch" under the steering wheel has stuck open. Squirt WD40 generously under the Hazard warning light switch behind the steering wheel. Operate the switch on and off about a dozen times, then operate the turn-signal switch left and right about a dozen times. Add some more WD40 and let it sit a few minutes. Try again. It should begin to work. If not, replace the flasher for $10 at your local auto parts store ($40-50 at the Ford parts department). It's a blue plastic cube close under the dash to the left of the steering wheel. Just remove it from its bracket and push the new one in place. Voila, Viola!

• You have probably figured it out by now, but it could be your multi-function switch located at the base of the turn signal, wiper, etc, stalk (lever). Also controls hazard lights. Not that hard to replace if necessary. Check out old switch with an olms meter. A Haynes guide book can help you. A new switch should cost less than $100. Just had the exact same problem on my 96 Crown Vic, plus I could flash the high beams, but not leave them on. Took off the turn signal stalk, opened it up at the base and all the copper contacts were corroded (by lube Ford uses at factory?) Cleaned them, and everything now works fine! Cost- zero!

• For all these posts, whenever they mention WD40 being applied for electronics, while it may be ok to use WD40, you are probably safer using a lubricant made especially for electronic components. There are some plastics that WD40 is not good for and it can be overkill for places with electronic components and plastics in the same place. That said, I use a spray can lubricant I found in home depot called CRC Electrical Grade 2-26. I found it in the electrical department (house wiring etc). Just look for the one that says its safe for plastics and is made especially for electrical connections. I think it does the same thing as WD40 but without some of the corrosive effect on certain plastics. It also doesn't smell. I promise I do not own any stock in this company nor do I have a problem with WD40, I use it all the time for other applications.

• Check that all parking and brake lights are working. Bad bulbs won't flash. Other possibles - blown fuse. flasher relay bad. switch kit inside steering column broke.

• Your relay could be bad they are located underneath your dash on the driver side.

• There is a device called a 'flasher' which is what actually makes the lights blink. It is usually in a very difficult place to locate, sometimes under the dashboard, sometimes in the engine compartment. If you own a car, it is worthwhile to purchase a maintenance manual for it. These can be found at most part stores, and run about 20 dollars. In it, you should find the exact location of the turn signal flasher unit.

• Have it checked out. It could be the t/s switch Hazard (emergency) relay might need replacing. Our 97 sable has a problem with the emergency flasher switch on top of the steering column that also keeps the turn signals from flashing. Just pushing the button on and off many times has fixed it(temporarily and cheaply) twice over the last 5 years or so.

• This happened to my '98 Mercury Sable. I had to replace the "Turn Signal Wiper Lever Switch." The part was about $75 and you can find it at some local auto parts stores (I got mine at a local NAPA). It took a bit of work to replace it, but it's not too hard.

• I have the same problem in my 95 Ford Taurus. Checked the fuses and they were all okay. Next step was to find the flasher but after checking this problem out online, this is what I found. Most likely the problem is the multi-function switch. In the 95, it is located in the steering column. From others that have had this problem, I found you might get the switch working again by dismantling the switch and cleaning the contacts. You can also find one in a junkyard to replace the broken one but you'll have to remove it yourself to save any money.

• Most likely it is your turn signal flasher,and it should be located close by the fuse panel. It will be round and looks like a short battery and it may be plastic or metal.

• Check the flasher for your emergency flasher.There are two flasher units, one for turn and one for emergencies.

• Most likely a bad turn signal flasher Could also be a bad switch in the steering column.

• I would think the first thing to check would be the fuses. Your owners' manual should provide a fuse diagram, there is likely to be one on the fuse box cover.

• Check for bad flasher (usually under dash) and also check for bad fuse in fuse block.

• I took a suggestion from one of our farmers, I sprayed WD 40 on top and around the flasher which is located on top of the steering wheel column. I checked the flasher the next day and it worked beautifully.

• Usually I just replace the multi-function switch, assuming it isn't a bad bulb. A bad bulb would be too obvious, though.

Flasher Location

• It's located on top off the fuse panel under the dash on the driver side.
• Turn signal/ flasher relay is behind left end of instrument panel above the fuse box

Answer If it is like my 98 Grand Marquis, it is incorporated within the hazard flasher switch on top of the steering column. Before spending money to get it repaired, try squirting some WD 40 around the switch and push it down and let it pop up several times and wiggle it around. It worked for me when my flashers, turn signals, and brake lights stop working. Apparently, over the years gunk finds it way in there, be it dirt, liquids, etc. Pressing the flasher switch can sometimes initiate the problem. I don't believe there is a plug-in "flasher" you can replace as you may remember in older vehicles.

Remove the associated headlamp (four screws) to get to the harness of the turn signal.

Give it a counter-clockwise twist and out comes the lamp harness / socket from the lens.

Cramped, but doable!

On some cars you open the hood, and the light socket will be right on the inside behind the fixture itself. A quarter turn counter clockwise and pull will remove the socket. Then push in while turning a quarter turn counter clockwise again will release the bulb, or on newer ones, you just pull them out as they are the spade type. On some cars you will have screws/torx screws holding the lens assembly in, and it would have to be removed to replace the bulb. Then still on others, you would reach underneath the bumper.

You will have to remove the headlights and front bumper cover to gain access to the back of the light assembly. Once you remove the 10mm bolts across the top holding the cover and headlights, you will find a 8mm on each fender (inside - lower front part of the fender - socket extension required). Remove the Phillips screws supporting the front plastic inner fender wells, and the push type fastener on the inside of the fender well will also need to be popped out. You will find a 13mm nut on the inside of the fender holding the side of the bumper cover to the fender - remove and free the sides from the fender. Remove all those little 6mm fasteners on the bottom of the cover too. Once everything is loose, gently pull up on the cover to free it from the guide pins and pull it forward to gain access to the turn signal assembly. You may want to replace both bulbs...

Open the hood and take out the four bolts that hold the headlight in position. They are all on the top and include one rather long bolt that will still remain attached even after loosened. Once you have done this you can move the headlight unit to the side (or you can disconnect it and remove it altogether). Removing the headlight unit will make it possible to reach the turn signal assembly which you can then twist to remove from its seating. You can then replace the bulb and then replace the headlight unit.

Additional Information1996-2005Bulb Numbers:

• FRONT Turn-signal - 3457 AK (amber)
• Headlamp - 9007 (9007LL optional)
• Tail lamp/brake/turn lamp 3157
• Tail lamp/brake lamp (wagon) 3157
• Rear turn lamp (wagon) 3456K
• Backup lamp 921
• Backup lamp (wagon) 3156
• License plate lamp (2) 168
• High-mount brake lamp (2) 912
• Rear side marker lamp (wagon) (2) 168

The above information extracted from the Owners Manuals(see below)

I just removed the whole headlight so i could get to the turn signal from the side.

Then i don't know how to get the light cover out without removing the bumper, but i think my whole thing was broken, so i was just able to pull the bulb right out from inside the car and replace it.

There are 3 screws holding the headlight assembly/lens in place:

• 2 are readily identifiable at each end of the front-top of the lens
• The 3rd is set towards the back and lower.

Remove those 3 and the whole lens comes out for easy bulb replacement.

By the way, this is detailed and illustrated in the Owners Manual - See "Related Questions" below for more

Pop the hood turn on the lights hit the high beams locate the wire (connector) at the back of the headlamp assembly a quarter turn of the "boot" to the left should release it pull it out carefully twist out the bulb take the bulb with you to a parts store buy bulb reverse procedure!

Doug

I would bet that it has some release clips at the back of the headlamp assembly. That's right the lenses are part of the assembly. A lot have a long flat plastic retaining clip that slides in from the top to lock a protruding pin into the sheet metal holder. I don't have one to look at to give you a definite answer about removing the assembly but my reply is mainly to let you know that if you are looking to replace them because they have clouded up then you should look for someone to polish and coat them instead. There are a few businesses popping up that do that now. I saw one locally called Clean & Clear or something like that. Try a search or check with some of your local used car dealers, those guys seem to do a lot of them for dealers.

You can also polish them yourself with a liquid compound like Blue Magic (for one) plexiglass and plastic polish that Pep Boys or other parts stores sell. Use an orbital polisher or low speed angle polisher designed for polishing automotive paint. It only takes about 5 min. each. The only problem is that it (obviously) only helps the cloudiness on the outside and doesn't last very long, maybe 2-4 months. The pros that do that for a living actually use something to coat it that keeps them clear.

Good luck

go to the blown bulb open the hood directly behind the bulb is a sort of cap with wires coming out of it give that a quarter to half turn and the light should pop out check the bulb for any retainer clips if none simply pull out the old bulb and put in the new one.(do not touch any glass surfaces on the new bulb the oil on your hands will cause the new bulb to develop a hot spot and burn out prematurely

The easiest way is to remove the entire headlight assembly. There are two screws on top, easy to see, and one down behind holding a long piece of metal attached to the head light. Remove the headlight and replace the bulbs. Install is reverse.

If it is like a Pontiac transport minivav , it is way up high ,under the dash, towards the center (left of the steering column) (A stupid place for it)

• The WD-40 squirted in the emergency flasher switch worked in my 97 ford mustang. Thanks so much for the info.

• Thanks for saving me the coins to pay a mechanic. I have a 97 Ford Van and the question fit my problem to the tee. The solution also fixed my problem.

• My wife push the flasher and that started all the problems. I took your advise and it worked for me too on my 1995 Grand Marquis. Thanks for your imput.

• I have a '99 Ford F-150 4.8 Liter V8, and this seems to have fixed the problem. It began as an intermittant problem and has gotten progressively worse over the past couple of months. I thought it was only affecting my turn signals, but I later discovered it also involved my brake lights. Moving the emergency flasher switch up and down a number of times solved the problem. Thank you!

• This also worked for me I have a 1999 Ford Expedition. I moved the hazardous lights up and down and the problem was solved.

• I thought I had checked the relevant fuses on my Ranger truck, but missed the one for brake-Emergency Flashers. My flashers were on - the button in the extended position when the fuse blew. Because the fuse went I didn't know the flasher was still in the on position. Therefore the turn signals and brake lights didn't work. It wasn't until I got the flasher in the off position that the turn signals started working again.

• hey it worked for me too! i almost brought her in to the vultures till i found this. thanks!!!!

• Worked on 1998 Lincon Continental...moved hazard warning switch in steering column up and down....worked great! THANKS!

• The WD40 worked like a charm. I have been trying to fix this problem for 2 hours. I sprayed WD40 and problem solved. Thanks so much.

• It works , don'ask me how , but it works.

• Just used WD4O on the hazard switch of a 97 Aerostar whose blinkers have not worked for months. The switch now works freely, and the blinkers work, too.

• I had a right front turn signal not working, sometimes. Then the left front stopped working, sometimes. Replaced lamps and still no joy. Tried the hazard flasher switch a few times and it started working but only sometimes. Sprayed WD40 into the hazard switch, exercised it a few times, and all OK now. Many thanks to the original poster.

• Good Morning! Let me echo the repair of the WD40. I had the same symtems of turn signals, flashers not working. Checked all the fuses. Went to Auto Zone to seek advise, They called FORD for me (really nice guys here in Warren, Pa) Ford pointed them/me to a light processcor that costs in excess of $200. A dealer only part) Auto Zone then suggested for me to access the web and seek out like problems which I did. Thank you to the original poster of this issue and Auto Zone. Several squirts and I worked the switch...and presto...everything started working again! No cost at all to fix this prob. I already has the WD40!

• It worked for me too on a 1997 Ford Thunderbird! Took me 2 days of checking things and not being able to use the care before I "Google'd" the problem. The Internet is great and so is your web site! You should have an option for people to pay something if you site helped them. This was worth at least $50 (and more if I would have taken it somewhere).

• Thank you VERY MUCH !!! The WD-40 solution worked GREAT !!!!!!!!!!!

• Thank you, worked for my 1997 F-150!

The turn signal switch has a plug mounted on the steering column near the pedals. There are metal terminal ends crimped to the wires. Sometimes corrosion is a factor, or the terminal ends work apart. I used to back pin the plugs with my meter to check for continuity across the plug.

To replace headlight bulb:

1. Make sure headlight switch is turned OFF.
2. Remove the bolt at the end of the headlamp housing.
3. Pull the two black tabs with the L shaped bracket toward the back and then up and pull out(Located at the back of the headlamp) to release the headlamp assembly from the vehicle and pull headlamp assembly forward.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the bulb by pulling it.
5. Remove the bulb socket retaining ring by rotating it counterclockwise.
6. Remove the bulb from the lamp assembly by pulling straight back.

   Do not twist, as there are alignment slots built into the lamp assembly socket.

   It may take some effort to remove the lamp because it has a rubber o-ring type seal - try a bit of wiggling side-to-side

7. Insert new bulb into headlight assembly - don't touch the glass - use gloves, paper towel, or similar

   Make sure that the flat surface of the bulb socket is facing upward, and is firmly seated

8. Re-attach retainer ring by rotating clockwise
9. Reconnect the electrical harness
10. Re-install headlight assembly - hold snugly into place until the brackets line up and retainer pins can be pushed down

Replacing front parking lamp/turn signal/cornering lamp bulbs

1. Remove headlight / lens assembly per above steps
2. Rotate the bulb socket of the offending bulb counterclockwise and remove from the lamp assembly.
3. Carefully pull bulb straight out of the socket and push in the new bulb
4. Install the bulb socket into the headlight assembly by rotating it clockwise
5. Re-install headlight assembly - hold snugly into place until the brackets line up and retainer pins can be pushed down

• Do not touch the glass of the new halogen bulb - the oils in the skin will shorten the life-span of the new bulb, or possibly cause the bulb to explode when first turned on

  If the bulb is accidentally touched, it should be cleaned with rubbing alcohol before being used.

• This procedure is well detailed, with illustrations, in the Owners Manual.

  See "Related Questions" below in case you can't find yours.

• FRONT Turn-signal - 3457 AK (amber)
• Headlamp - 9007 QL (9007LL optional)
• Tail lamp/brake/turn lamp 3157
• Tail lamp/brake lamp (wagon) 3157
• Rear turn lamp (wagon) 3456K
• Backup lamp 921
• Backup lamp (wagon) 3156
• License plate lamp (2) 168
• High-mount brake lamp (2) 912
• Rear side marker lamp (wagon) (2) 168

The above information extracted from the Owners Manuals(see below)

Remove screws holding the plastic headlight and remove the headlight. Remove socket (twist/pull) and pull out the bulb.

http://204.200.208.247/taurus_bulb

It's actually quite easy. You must remove the entire plastic housing. Behind the light there ate two locking bars that slip up and down. Remove those and a screw holding the light/lens in place. From there remove the bulb covering, then remove the twist lock holding the bulb in place. After that, just pull the bulb out and replace. Put back in reverse order.

Open the hood, looking down at the headlamp assembly, you'll see a 5/16 retaining bolt on the inboard corner. Remove the bolt. Look for two tabs at the rear of the assembly. Pull up and remove these tabs, you may need a large screwdriver to lever them. Pull the assembly out and remove the wiring harness attachment. Turn the retaining collar to the left and remove. Unplug the wiring socket from the lamp. Turn the lamp retaining collar to the left and remove. Pull the lamp out of the assembly. Replace with the new lamp, being VERY careful not to touch the lamp other than on the base. Halogen lamps will heat up any oils from contact with your hand and probably explode. Reverse the above directions to reinstall the headlamp assembly.

Very easy. 2002 Ford Taurus.

Take a look at the entire headlight assembly. Look down on the assembly and toward the side closest the radiator you will see a small bolt to unscrew on each housing.

Look toward the rear of the headlight and you will see two metal clips that need to come out. A medium size flathead will get them started but they should come staight up. The assembly will now pull out of the front of the vehicle. Be sure to unclip the small wiring harness.

Uncrew the back of the assembly and you will see the back of the bulb. Detach wiring. Unscrew the ring holding the lamp. Remove old bulb.

DO NOT touch the glass of your lamps! It will cause hot spots and the bulb will burn out.

Take new bulb and notice the notches...they will orient the bulb correctly. Screw on ring. Attach wiring. Screw on the back of the assembly. Attach the wiring and install back into the front of your vehicle.

The headlight lens is held in with 1 bolt on the front inside end of the lens, and 2 retainer pins at the backside (pull straight up to remove).

The Owners Manual has the steps and illustrations around page 37.

See "Related Questions" below for free online Owners Manual

this is a common problem with all 4th gen, F-Bodies, the problem is the one of your taillight sockets has shorted out.

Normally the Black wire of the three wires which is the ground wire. Some can be fixed most can't it is inside the socket. Best bet is to find a 93-97 f-body,(camero, firebird) in a junkyard and cut the sockets out, and splice and replace one at a time til you find the bad one.

You can test for a bad one if you have an ohm meter. Inside the socket there are 3 metal strips, 2 in the bottom, 1 around the inside, check to see if the ground(black wire) is 0 ohms from more than 1 of the strips, if 2 strips show 0 ohms, that socket is toast.

Make sure when you cut the wires on the junkyard sockets you have at least 4-5 inches of wire. The more the better.

I am not sure what all of the symptoms are, but if your turn signals work at times, or flash rapidly at times, the problem may be just like the one I had with my 1999 Century. I found after gaining access to the dash thru the removable panel on the driver's side, that the flasher assembly was bouncing around inside the dash compartment. I could recreate the symptoms every time I moved the flasher assembly and attached wires. I secured the flasher to the inside of the panel using a zip-tie, and have not had a problem since. I could not believe how easy it was to fix, after spending hours checking all the bulbs and sockets and wiring.