open hood, look to the right, near to wipers fluid resevoir. open the black box cover. is there.
Please specify what engine
What a great question!
A "Conversion Van" is a large American Style Van that can be used for many things.
You may use the vans space for storing things,
or you may use the van for camping, sleeping,
taking the family or friends on long very comfortable drives.
Many Musicians and entertainers use Vans for these many reasons. Van drivers were the 1st people to have Televisions and VCR's and DVD players and refridgerators and such in their vehicles. (Only ones to have all the room!) Conversion Vans are sometimes used as Limo's. Photo's of "Conversion Vans"!
Park the vehicle on a level surface. Drain the oil and change the filter. Add 4 quarts of oil, start the engine, and run for 1 minute. Shut off and wait 30 minutes. Check the oil level and add as necessary to reach the full mark on the dipstick. You now know the capacity.
Unless your vehicle has a selectable feature to disable the passengers side air bag, there is no way to disable �Just� that air bag without danger to the whole restraint system.
You can disable the whole of the airbag system by simply removing the fuse NOTE: that BOTH air bags will not function if you do this.
You can follow the manufacturers instructions for replacing the air bag, but do not remove it, leave it in place (I will not give those instructions as they are dangerous). CAUTION: Doing this is a GREAT RISK to Life, Health, and Safety of anyone in the van. This air bag, if disconnected could be �discharged� (it could go off) from static charges, or lightning strikes, or just from heat changes.
(Suggested) Do not mess with it! If you have a child then place them in the back seats.
Air Bag Information: Air Bags are charged explosives! You heard me right, there are small explosive charges that cause them to inflate. During an accident these forces are miniscule when compared to the effect of two (or more) large metal objects colliding: When not in an accident it is like a balloon tied to a 12 gauge shotgun shell, just a few feet from your face. Now while that thought may be scary, the thought of your face hitting the dash, or steering wheel, with 2 tons of force is not only more scary, it is more deadly. Air Bags when properly installed have almost NO risk of going off on their own, the safety system is very good. When you leave the leads to that explosive dangling loose, or even grounded, you are asking for lots of trouble.
(Suggested 2) If you remove the fuse and disable the air bag system, you need to install a 5 point racing harness, and new solid seats (to hold it), to keep your face from making a bad impression on your dash. (The cost behind this would be very high).
NOTE: I have worked in the autobody industry a long time (18 years), and yes air bags scare me; but standing in front of a car moving at 30 (or more) miles per hour scares me more � and unless your body is made solid with the car your in, you are no different than any other loose object in the car.
try the fuel pressure regulator
1995 Chevrolet Astro EGR Maintenance Procedure
EGR solenoid does not function properly due to carbon build-up inside the EGR chamber. No need to purchase new EGR, regular maintenance when needed will suffice.
Common vehicle symptom is rough idling and engine stalling; check engine flash code 32 (OBD1) - EGR ciruit fault.
EGR only turns on (allows exhaust fumes to mix with intake charge) when engine is warmed up or when reaches optimal operating temperature. EGR is off on 'P' Parking and 'N' Neutral positions when idling and when cold.
-Small and regular flathead screw driver
-2mm flathead screw driver
-1/2" driver ratchet
-1 ft extension, 1/2" driver socket connector bar
-adjustable 1/2" driver socket connector
-10mm socket (1/2" socket)
-oil bucket or any low-wide open bucket/cardboard box
-wire tooth brush
EGR Removal Procedure:
1. Park vehicle in safe area with plenty of room around front of vehicle. Open, prop up hood and locate air box (very front of engine bay) and EGR (EGR location is just below throttle opening which is connected to the air filter box tube/duct - hard to see at this point).
Warning! Wait for engine to cool first, warm to touch, before working in the engine bay.
2. Untighten "first screw clamp" from "air filter box" to "air filter tube/duct" with flathead screw driver. A small flathead screw driver will work best at this location depending if the screw/worm of the screw clamp is in a tight location.No need to fully unscrew screw clamp, just loosen to be able to remove component.
3. Unclamp the 2 clamps from air filter box.
4. Gently remove connecting hose (crankcase ventilation hose) on the right side of the air filter box. If it is tight, gently twist to remove while holding the part that connects to the air filter box.
5. Gently twist and pull off top part of the air filter box. Set it aside. Air filter can be left in for this procedure, no need to remove it.
6. Unplug connector from air filter tube/duct.
7. Untighten "second screw clamp" from "air filter tube/duct" to "throttle body" with flathead screw driver. A regular size flathead screw driver will work best at this location depending if the screw/worm of the screw clamp is in a in a tight location. No need to fully unscrew screw clamp, just loosen to be able to remove component.
8. Gently twist and pull off air filter tube/duct. Set it aside.
9. Locate EGR beneath throttle body and 2 mounting bolts.
10. Using "ratchet + extension bar + adjustable connector + 10mm socket" ease it onto the left mounting bolt and loosen bolt (counter-clockwise to loosen) but do not fully loosen yet. If this is the first time it is being untightened, it will be tight, even if engine is warm to touch.
11. Now loosen right side. Once both sides are loosened, continue to take both bolts off.
12. EGR should come off easily. It can be taken out between the coolant hose and throttle body. Push down coolant hose to get more room to squeeze EGR out.
13. Clean EGR valve and chamber using a wire tooth brush and 2mm flathead screw driver. Use brake cleaner to spray out deposits and a shop towel + 2mm flathead combo to remove further deposits.
Be careful not to spray eyes! I suggest wearing safety glasses. Spray over bucket with shop towels, paper towels or newspapers.
Notice EGR valve when pushed down with 2mm flathead screw driver. It will be a little harder to lightly pry up within the chamber with 2mm flathead at this point. Also, the valve should still move smoothly up and down when not pushed all the way to the bottom. In addition, the valve should stay down when pushed down due to the solenoid, but should also easily be released if valve is very lightly pried up. Due to carbon buildup, the valve is sticky and a little harder to pry up at this point.
Clean chamber and top portion (head) of the valve until you see metal. Due the best you can though you might not be able to get everything. EGR valve should be easily pried up after cleaning, valve should pop up with a little light push.
Be careful not to ruin the gasket portion on the EGR while cleaning and spraying.
14. If there is excessive carbon build-up in and around the throttle intake. Spray brake cleaner on a towel and wipe away until shiny.
15. Reverse order to install for EGR and air filter tube/duct and box.
Make sure alignment of EGR back onto intake manifold is correct.
Double check mounting bolts are tight, as tight as when they came off.
Double check connectors are connected before moving on to the next step of reinstallation.
Air filter box might be a little tricky to get on, but push down to locate it into the slots.
Good luck! Hope this helped!
== == Go to the Allpar.com site and search for an article by Rodger Koppa on how to do this nasty little job. Did it on both my doors, be prepared to cuss a bit. After you install the new handles you can forestall future breakage by just popping the lkatch with the handle, and then using the edge of the door to swing the door open. Those dinky plastic handles just can't take the side torque with those heavy doors! I used the directions provide by Rodger Koppa to repl;ace my passenger side door handle and it works great. Like he says though be prepared to cuss a little bit and just hope you don't drop anything into the door. Good Luck!!
the 2004 1 ton Chevy express does not have a fuel filter, as well as many new trucks. stop looking. i spent the time looking until i asked the gm dealer. they informed me that there is no fuel filter on this van. they don't even list a part for it, even though the owner's manual does. the black box in front of the fuel tank is the evap cannister, not the filter. not having a filter is sure to lead to fuel problems such as plugged injectors, but...?
You might have a faulty oxygen sensor. Typically, when cold, the engine management system operates in "open loop" mode ignoring feedback from oxygen sensors because they don't work properly until they heat up to a specific temperature range. Once the sensors heat up, the computer goes into "closed loop" mode using the signal from the oxygen sensors to help adjust the air/fuel mixture. If one or more sensors are faulty, the fuel mixture may be incorrect and cause a poor running condition.
Another possibility is that you have a running problem which is noticeable when the engine is turning slowly. Air metering, EGR system, and mechanical engine problems are your most likely suspects here. When the engine is cold, the computer raises the idle speed of the engine to warm it up faster and to prevent stalling which masks the problem until warmup occurs.
== == -you might also have a bad distributer or a bad catalytic converter or muffler
The Best way to remove and replace the old handle is to remove the door latching system there are 3 star drive screws located in the jamb, before you pull those out remove the 4 connecting rods to the latch, this will save you hours of trying to get to the top 10mm nut that is impossible to replace once off, removing the latch gives you "full access" to the top nut!
Instructions for this puzzling step were provided with speakers shipped from Crutchfield. 1. Exert pressure around the hole where the handle goes through the panel. 2. If you press hard enough, you'll see a wire horse-shoe-shaped clip that looks like the Greek letter Omega. 3. Slip a strip of cloth [terry cloth or shop towel] under the clip and, with a see-saw motion [or inverted shoe shine motion, lift up against the open end of the clip - it works best if the cloth is in a "V" shape, the better to engage the open end of the clip and its bent-out "feet". 4. Be careful that you don't lose the clip when it finally releases into the strip of cloth!
If there are two arrow buttons, one up and one down, those are probably the buttons to set the clock. If you look very closely (shine a flashlight on them if necessary) you will see "hr" and "min" inscribed in tiny letters above the buttons. With the radio turned off, hold down the "hr" button until the hour is correct. Repeat with the "min" button.
This works great. If you have a work van like me you will need to blow off the dust to find the "hr" and "min" buttons.
USUALLY they have a bolt on each side of the engine cover(dog house) it takes a large & long screw driver to reach the screws/bolts(some are 15MM") plus the 2 snap locks toward the back(bottom) of the cover-butt before that TAKE 2 10 MM nuts off under the back(storage) door-they are at 45? angle and some have 2 screws on each side of the cover on top of the dog house-dicconnect the LIGHTER connection first before you take the top cover off.
It is kind of hard to describe, but I will try. 1st- you take of your inner console, you might have a coffee cup holder and glove box on it. this is done by 2 screws at the top left and right side.
2nd- Then if you pull the carpet back at the bottom you will see 2 nuts, you will need a rachet with an extension to get these. Once you have these off pull the console back, unplug any wire harness that might be there. 2nd Now there maybe a heating duct that runs the heat to the floor in front of the engine cover, remove duct by pulling and wiggling it out of position.
3rd -the engine cover is held on by 2 bolts at the top where it attaches to the fire wall, you will need at least 10inches worth of extensions to reach these bolts. These bolts are captive so they stay in place when loosed off.
4th- there are 2 clamps that hold the engine cover at the bottom, between the two front seats, that are held in place by 2 nuts, remove these clamps and engine cover is free. Make sure both seats are slid back as far as they go, then slide the engine cover back and swing it to the drivers side tilt back and the engine covers come out.AnswerYou don't have to take off the engine cover (My van is a 1996 Astro) to change the spark plugs. Just jack the van up, remove the front tires. Then remove the protective plastic covers from inside the wheel well to expose the sides of the engine. You will need a ratchet with a long extension, a universal knuckle to go the end of your ratchet extension and of course the spark plug socket with the rubber insert (if it is a spark plug socket by design it will automatically have the rubber insert anyway). You can use a regular deep socket if you want but you run the risk of cracking the porcelain insulator on your new plugs when you install them. . AnswerAll of the other answers are good, but I would like to add: Some of the early Astros have the two recessed bolts that are described in the other answers "turned around", as in they are not accessible from the passenger compartment, but rather from under the hood. They are in the same position, just pointing the other way. As far as changing plugs without removing the dog house, you method is good, but I always change the cap, rotor, and wires when I do plugs. I also use premium parts, like from NAPA, and typically see 100k to 150k from them. I usually only change them once in a given vehicle.
Just removed the cover on my 2001 to fix the common vacuum line failure that causes the AC and vent to come only out the defroster vent.
1. Remove the two allen-head screws on the top left and top right side of the center console area. These are hidden behind decorative "buttons".
2. Remove two nuts (mounted horizontally), at the bottom left and bottom right side of the glovebox, right at the floor, just above the carpet. Socket (10mm) with medium extension.
3. You can now pull out the center console. There are four latching points up towards the top of the console, just below the radio. I didn't find anything to be very fragile.
4. Once the console is pulled loose, disconnet the electrical connector and remove the console.
5. Now you're looking at the engine cover. Two 15mm bolts attach the top to the firewall. Use a socket with a long extension. Bolts are captive and won't fall out.
6. Remove the two vertically mounted bolts (and black brackets labelled LH and RH) on the bottom front of the cover that attach it to the floor.
7. Mine has one wire that had to be disconnected from the cover. Cover's now free, pull it back and wrestle it out of the way.
There's your motor! Ironically, I figured i'd change the plugs as long as i had it off, but it sure didn't seem much easier to get to the plugs with the cover off.
Troutrvr32208: The shop that wanted to charge you $440.00 to change the plugs wires and cap should be charged with price gouging and borderline fraud. It would take an experienced mechanic two hours (max) to pull the dog house, remove front tires and replace the cap, wires and plugs, put the dog house back... and less than $50 in parts to do the job in an Astro van. I wouldn't pay more than $150.00.
You don't change the spark plugs by going through the engine housing but through the wheel well.
You need to remove but frontal wheels and lift up the mud flaps to see the exposed spark plug wiring.
Kudos to the individual who posted on how to take the cover off the Astro and to the next person who helped me avoid the spark plug removal.
I needed to remove the cover to fix the notorious a/c vacuum hose.
Both of you save me a considerable amount of time and money. it is because of folks like you that internet self-help is so successful.
dog house removal instructions are in your owner's manual
You folks have been a big help..went to "Pep Boys" purchased hose and fitting and it worked great..total of 8 bucks...ac running great!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey Duc==This is kind of envolved. Get a manual on your van from a local parts store and it will tell you how and have pictures . GoodluckJOE
by law you shouldn't be allowed to purchase an A/C compressor without having the proper ticket, and if you had the proper ticket you would not be asking this question, but in any case there is already a spot for the ac compressor on the block on the right front half of the engine. a four bolt mount is already installed ready to accept the compressor.
The entire taillight unit can be removed by removing the black plastic headed nuts that hold the unit in place. Use a 6 point socket to prevent rounding the plastic nut off. If the nut does not come off easily, spray under it with a good penetrant like Kano "Kroil," let it soak for a while, then try again. The bulb sockets come out by pressing the lock tab and turning the socket counterclockwise about 1/8 turn and pulling them gently out.
We have a 1988 Astro, and have been running into the same problem. As it turns out, the freeze plugs are being eroded from the inside, and have to be removed and replaced. Out mechanic says he's nervous that the engine block itself may have the same thing happening to it, so he's pretty careful when he changes the things. So far we've only replace the plugs as the problem occurs, and not pulled all of them for replacement.
the diagram should be under the hood next to your latch to raise it.
Usually there is a tension pulley that a 3/8 ratchet can be used to move it to loosed it up enough to take off the old one and then put on the new one. See if there any arrows to place it on moving in the right direction. BUT THERE IS A SQUARE HOLE IN THE TENSION PULLEY THAT USUALLY IS 3/8 IN. Use a 3/8 drive ratchet wrench inserted into this square hole to release the tension. \
if you don't have a chart of the belt orientation on the engine compartment , usually near the latch / front of car, carefully draw a sketch by first drawing circles for all the pulleys then draw arrows around the circles showing the location ( Over the top or under the pulley) of the serpentine belt.
Make sure you crank the tension pulley all the way to make it easier to work the belt on and off
If there are no screws holding in the lens, then you will have to remove the inside panel behind the lights- just enough to reach your hand in . Once you have that off,you ought to be able to reach in and grab the socket to remove the bulb.
Its funny cause I just had to replace most of lights a few moments ago. Here's what the owner's manual says:
1. Remove the two inboard nuts on the assembly.
2. Pull side assembly rearward to clear studs.
3. Rotate side assembly on the outboard side releasing the upper clip.
4. Slide assembly slightly upward to release lower clip.
5. Reinstall the clips to the side assembly.
6. Remove the three nuts on the taillamp.
7. Remove the tailamp from the vehicle.
8. To Remove, squeeze the tab on the side of the sockets while turning them counterclockwise.
9. Turn the bulb counterclockwise to remove it. Install the new bulb.
10. Reverse the above steps to reinstall the lamp.
Haynes Manual usually have the wiring diagrams in them. Most auto parts stores (Advance, Auto Zone, etc) usually carry them.
IT depends on the van, usually between 27-33gals.
most of the time, the trim is just held on with spring clips. grab the edges with your fingernails & give it a sharp snap. yes, it is tight, but it should come off.
The other part holding the dash on besides spring clips is the cubby between both 12 dv plugs (cigarette lighter) has two screws that have to be removed. The screws are hidden. You have to open up the main drawer to get at them from beneath. Its a bit awkward. The top of the cubby then pulls off, but it doesn't have metal clips but plastic ones that can be easily broken if you pull too hard.
The fuel pump is in the gas tank. It is not easy , first before you do it make sure that is the problem.Get a auto manual if your not up to it take it to a good repair shop and be ready to pay $600.00 to $700.00 to have it done.
on those vans the conections usually go bad before the pump,check the wires under the van by the front of gas tank.this happend to me.
The best way to tell if it's working, is to listen for a sort "whine" for about 5-10 seconds when first turning the key to the on position without trying to start the engine. The noise you hear is from the fuel pump in the gas tank.
Having driven several of these vans over several years, 99% of the time, the failure will be the pump itself.
As far as replacement, if it's a cargo van and you're not too concerned about the floor in the van, I measured and cut a hole with a hole saw over the gas tank (carefully) where the fuel pump is located. Then I could pull the pump. No dropping of the gas tank, but you will have to cover the hole and seal it so that no exhaust fumes can leak into the van. I used a thick piece of metal, gasket material and sealer with screws for the next time I might have to do this. You also have to be careful you don't puncture the top of gas tank and a spark from drilling into it could be a "Ka Boom"!
They were a common failure problem.
Honda Sedans have a plate over the fuel pump in the gas tank in the trunk. Makes for easy replacement. Their pumps aren't cheap though. About $175
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