what size of transmission goes on chevy g20 cargo van 1995
look under the fuse box cover their usually there
Please specify what engine
I replace one of this about 4 month ago. I went from under the dash board make sure you have alot of light you need a metric size 7 mm socket, make sure you have this before you start I kept running to the store.
Remove all the paneling the heater core is closer to the right make sure all the screws are out I missed a few started to pull and broke some plastic of the paneling. I pulled the engine forward to get to the hoses by the firewall make sure that you secure the engine with a 2 x 4 or have someone helping you.
Once everything is loose start maneuvering the core out be careful not to get coolant on your eyes, and by the way completely drain coolant before you start this job. If you don�t chances are you will get an air pocket THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.
Good Luck and I hope you are as lucky as I was to have a friend spend the whole day helping out.
I had this problem and took my 1990 cavalier to a shop. Nothing came up on diagnostic so they decided my ignition module and coil packs needed to be replaced. This fixed my problem but costed me around 450.00!
THEY ARE TO THE LEFT OF THE STEERING COLUMN AS IT ENTERS THE FIREWALL...THEY ARE COVERED BY A SQUARE BLACK COVER
stock rear-end ratio is 3.08 gears.
Stock gear ratio for that van is not 3:08 it wasn't an option. It stands a better chance of being 3:42 which would be option code GU6 on the build sticker in the "glove box".
sticker should be under hood on the van.,
on rad support or on hood underneath side of it glued in place
possibly also in rear on rear door or spare tire cover
G code is axle code
fpmp ACTUALLY stands for "Frontal Peak of Motor Potential"
700R4 transmission Always automatics
The crankshaft cover is the oil pan, and you remove it from underneath the vehicle. You saftely raise and secure the vehicle with proper blocks etc. Once raised, you make sure the engine is not hot, because you will be working with very hot oil if you don't. A hot oil burn is very painful, because it just keeps burning until you get it wiped off and get something cool on your skin. Drain the oil from the engine and remove all the bolts fron around the circumference of the oil pan. Some will be difficult to get at, but you can remove them and the pan. Sometimes, some models also require you to remove other pieces, and maybe Transmission cooling lines, or maybe even some wires that prevent you from doing the job. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ If you ment to say the Camsahft cover, that is an entirely different situation. That is located on the front of the engine ie. the end where the pulleys are. To remove that, it is easiest to safely block up the passenger side of the vehicle, remove the wheel and the inside of the fender well and other flashings to expose that end of the motor. You have to drain the cooling system, and you also must remove the belt, the battery, the water pump, the steering pump, air pump, and the A/C compressor, just to actually see the Camshaft cover. You have to strip all these parts off the front of the engine and anything else that prevents access to the bolts that hold the cover in place. Even after removing all that, you are still not finshed removing things that allow you to remove the cover. The next major thing to remove is the Harmonic Balancer which also part of the crankshaft pulley assembly. When you have gotten that far, you will see the head of a bolt in the center of the Harmonic balancer to remove. After removing that bolt, you now need a proper puller to remove the H-balancer. (don't scrimp on this puller, because you can actually pull the balancer part off of the entire assembly, if you try using other means to do it. The balancer is mounted on with a rubber and if you separate them, you will damage the function of the Harmonic Balancer (ie. it helps smooth out the engines crankshaft's vibrations due to the firing of the fuel mixture insde the cylinders) Finally you remove all the bolts fron the cover, and usually the cover is stuck onto the front of the engine, so you need to carefully pry it off.
For my G20 van (1989, 5.7L 350 V8 K-VIN) the belt routing diagram is on a sticker on the air intake. Pop the hood and look for where the air goes from the front of the van into the intake manifold/TBI/etc. to find the sticker.
Yes it is 350 TBI is injection
The 1979-1991 Crown Vic wiper motor is located on top of a large plastic housing at the top of the firewall. It's easy to locate this housing if you do any engine work, because it does its best to block access to the rearmost bolts on the driver's side valve cover - one reason why I pulled the entire wiper mechanism when I swapped the engine on my first "Panther" chassis station wagon (a 1987 Mercury Colony Park). The mechanical wiper mechanism is hidden under the housing to prevent it from mangling the copious supply of fuel-injection-related wires that pass through the area. Note that it's easiest if you remove both wiper arms before servicing the system, since they're just one more thing you have to swing around to get things to line up. The wiper motor itself is is held to the housing by three bolts that are easily accessible (either 3/8" or 10mm head, as I recall) - just pull it part-way out, pry the crank arm off of the mechanical linkage inside the housing, disconnect the two electrical plugs going to the motor, and it's off.
Try Google pictures search for Chevy van and the year you want
Did you check for a blown fuse?
1=8=4=3=6=5=7=2 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 for a 5.7 liter V-8 with sequencial fuel injection.
The camshaft position sensor is located under the distributor cap and rotor. You'll notice a connector from the wiring harness attached to it. The engine will have to be turned over until the notch on the distributor lines up with the sensor in order to remove it
hook up each wire at a time with the switch on either side u'll figure it out what lite is which.
Try replacing your horn fuse, considering it's a problem with the horn functioning. Depending on how it's wired, it could also affect your dome light or stereo if the fuse is malfunctioning.
you can also pop the cover off of the horn on the steering window, just take hold of it and pull it towards you... check and see if the wires are connected there... if not, it's easy enough to do...
It is an involved procedure. Get a manual on your car from the parts store or AUTOBOOKSONLINECOM
This is no fun I am doing this as I am writting today.
First you have to remove the dash. There are various 10mm bolts and Philips head screws.
There are wiring clips on the radio, the headlight switch (there is a button in the rear of the headlight switch to remove the switch rod)and on the gauge panel for easy removal.
Edit: Remove the passenger side seat and it will be much easier to remove the 'dog house' / engine cover. You will also have an easier time getting access to everything. This is also an excellent time to do that tune up you've been putting off as the engine will be easily accessible for plugs, wires etc. When I replaced my heater core I did not have to entirely remove the dash - it can be held up & out of the way with bungie cords. If at all possible, replace the heater core with a COPPER unit (hard to find) rather than the aluminum cores. If you have voltage leakage in the system, it will cause a dielectric reaction & eat up the new core in time. (Yes - voltage leakage! Test w/ a digital voltage meter from battery ground to the antifreeze in the radiator neck. Should read 0.01 or less on low dc voltage scale. Higher indicates a probable bad ground on a component somewhere which is finding a path to ground through the coolant.) /Edit
Edit: In my work van - I took a dremel tool with a cutting disc and cut along the "seam" on the passenger side of the dash. This eliminated any need to pull anything on the driverside dash and turns this into an hour job once the cut is made. Keep in mind - this was done in a work van but it does not look horrible if you take your time. A conversion, or "dressy" van owner might not favor this solution but for those of us with work, utility vans... it's a no brainer - do it! There is actually a faux "seam" cast into the dash plastic where that part of the dash may have been intended to be removable( until it was discovered how easy it makes heater core repairs). If you do this - there are only a few screws to remove & then you can access the heater core a LOT easier. /Edit
Then I would suggest you remove the internal engine cover for easier access. That takes a 1/2in. socket. There are 2 hoses to the left side of the engine bay. You can see those clearly if you remove the air intake rubber duct. The upper hose has the heater control valve on it and the lower one is a return line. These will need a flat head screwdriver or a 10 mm socket to remove the hose clamps.
I am right now trying to remove all the corresponding duct work to free up the heatercore box.
I removed all the duct work, then I found that there are a few bolts that go through the firewall to the a/c box on the engine compartment side. remove the 3 nuts and there is one bolt on the inside right hand side. There is a bracket that holds the dashboard bottom remove that also with 1/2in or 13mm.
Finally the heater box can be removed. you need a 1/4 in socket to split the heater box. there are like 15 little bolts for this. once the box is split you will finally see if the heater core is bad.
I started at this point to split all the duct work in half and clean it with bleach. Once that was done I replaced everything.
work slow if you rush disasters with wiring and vaccum hoses can occur.
thanks for reading
Can you send me a picture as I had a mechanic do my core, and you guessed it, I get no heat..As my upper hose has no control valve on it, it comes right from the radiator to the core, thanks for your help.My eail is tparku@AOL.com..
Edit: Be sure the correct hose is fed to the correct heater core port - they are two different sizes on mine so it should not be easy to mix them up but someone with an ambitious nature may have forced the 5/8" hose onto the 3/4" port. A mechanic I spoke to some years back (who observed me doing my first core replacement) mentioned that if the hoses were swapped the heater would not put out nearly as much heat. /Edit
try the ignition control moduale under distributor cap . Any gasoline engine needs fuel and ignition to start. You can check the coil wire (that's the part that went bad on my astro) and the fuel pump, as well as the ignition module. Listen for the "whirr" of the fuel pump when you first turn the ignition. If you don't hear the pump pressurizing the system that may very well be your problem. Try having someone kick (or rubber mallet) the bottom of the fuel tank while trying to start the motor. This sometimes is enough to get the fuel pump going again when it is going bad.
Check the vacuum hose attached to the throttle actuator. It may be damaged due to heat from the exhaust manifold. The hose runs from the rear of the engine along the driver's side to the front by the battery.
Check the forums at http://www.astrosafari.com/ for solutions for this
Is the vehicle speed sensor working? If it is not, the service engine soon light should come on when driving also. The speed sensor is located behind the instrument cluster, where the speedometer cable attaches, on the older vans, and I think it might be on the transmission on newer ones.
If the van is older, the wires from the cruise control switch may be shorting out in the steering column.
Another thing to check is the brake switch. Above the brake pedal there should be two switches, one for the brake lights, and one for the cruise control. They are probably both built into the same unit, or at least are very close together.
Finally, the cruise control unit itself is a box attached to the cowling near the windshield washer motor. You can check the cable that comes out of it and goes over to the throttle.
The thread is right handed (normal thread) and you need to turn it anti-clockwise to loosen it. On my dodge colt, it took an extension tube nearly 5 feet long to loosen this bolt. The difficult part is stopping the engine from rotating while you apply the necessary force.
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