Note: The sympton with my van was it started but started to require a few trys to get it started....then it required 4-5 trys. Eventually I could not get it started. If I was able to get it started it stayed running and ran fine.
At the risk of sounding like my dad, any internal combustion engine requires three things to run: -Fuel -'Fire' -Compression
Sounds as though you're looking at the most likely problem areas.
Some additional input:
-Fuel: Just because you replaced the fuel filter, that doesn't mean you're getting fuel. If you've replaced all that other stuff without blowing anything up, try disconnecting the fuel line at the point where it enters the carb/injector system, stick a can or fuel-proof container under the end and try cranking the engine a couple times. If nothing comes out, you've got a bad fuel pump. (As previously mentioned in some of my GM related rants, the fuel pump is in the gas tank. Good luck.) -'Fire': Using a thick glove or rag, disconnect one of the plug wires and hold it close to the engine block while someone cranks the engine a couple times. If no electrical flash between the plug wire and ground, you're still missing something in the ignition system. -Compression: Probably not an issue, unless you've already confirmed you've got fuel and 'fire'. Even with a blown head gasket, the thing should try to fire and maybe even run-roughly.
First thing DONT EVER hold the spark plug wire with any part of YOU when cranking over the van or any car .if it there is a very high voltage that can kill you before that the easyest way to test the fuel pump is to have somone turn the ignition to on not to start just till the radio wiper work but of couse have them turned off so you can hear . listen right at the gas refill door if your FUEL PUMP is working you will here it prime for startup.. If you dont here anything then start cheking fuses if all fuses are ok then your pump is fubar Iv had to replace mine. Just remember its either gas or electrical that will stop your vehical from starting .After rereading your Q if it starts and runs and stops and will not start again that sounds like the FUEL FILTER had that happen to me too. The fuel filter when cold at first start it allows fuel threw butt after fuel passing threw the filter heats up by friction and swells up making it inpassable IE no start but engine crancks but wont start that is the first thing to check from what you discribed good luck
1. Remove the plastic air intake system which includes the air filter, 1 vacuum hose, the tube that runs to the carb, the tube that runs off to the left. There are three bolts that hold the bottom of the air filter housing on. Most of this system is a snap together assembly. Just pull it apart.
2. The alternator will have two bolts on the front bottom. The left one is a double sided bolt and the right one is a pass through bolt with a nut on the back. Stick a wrench or a short socket wrench on the nut behind the alternator and remove the pass through bolt from the front. Then remove the double sided bolt from the left side.
3. This leaves the alternator loose and being held by the belt. remove the belt from the alternator and wiggle and jiggle the alternator out of the mounting area (very tight squeeze to get it out). You can put a larger size can of fruit or something in the place of the alternator to hold the belt in place so you can remember how it looks.
4. You will need to loosen the belt tensioner to put the belt on the new alternator. Remove the can of fruit if you chose to do that but be careful to not accidentally remove the belt from the 5 or 6 different places it passes through. Place the new alternator, put in the bolts and tighten. Loosen the tensioner and put the belt on. Tighten the tensioner and adjust as needed. Replace the entire air intake system by snapping it all back together and bolting it in one piece at a time.
the thermostat is located on the safari is located top front center of engine, remove the air filter box and the air intake , also remove top portion of the fan shroud,then follow the top radiator hose directly to it . it will take more time getting to it, then it will to replace it.
The coolant temperature sensor on a '94 Astro Van, V-6 is located on the driver's side of the engine, between the 3rd. and 5th. cylinder, between the exhaust manifolds. There are two sensors located in this area. One is the anti-knock and the other is the temp. sensor. It has a two contact wire plug connector, with one of the wires being green that goes directly to the the temp. gauge.
I have a 99 Astro that had the same issue. It is a real trick to re-atatch linkage. Once the center handle has been removed along with the two accessible trim screws, you can (with minimal loss of flesh from the back of your hand) reach in and pull on the release to gain better access. The linkage has a plastic retainer to hold it into the latch lever and the broken retainer can be replaced with a suitable clip. (I used one from an RC car I had laying around) Good Luck!
PS- Be prepared to break the original interior trim to get access to the linkage where the rod may fall out. GM bad design! I suggest when you put the new trim in, make access ports so you can get to the problem easier next time. Otherwise you will go through the same problem. Oh, be prepared to sweat and get filthy when you embark on this exercise in futility. I agree with the other person when he said Good Luck; you will need it!
It is most likely that there is still some air in the system. It is quite possible to have some debris from the worn pump in the system, the best way to eliminate the metal shavings from a worn pump is to install an inline filter commonly available aftermarket.
When installing the new pump the old fluid might not have been flushed out of the system.The debris in the remaining fluid will cause the new pump to eventually fail. Also the wrong fluid might have been installed after the pump was changed.
Is it early morning or evening when you start up?...Dew? Moisture will make it squeek. Have you had the belts checked? Worn belts can also be the cause of the squeeking. Good luck!
follow the top radiator hose to the motor and where this conects is the thermostat houseing. be sure to replace it with the factory recommended temp.
must removed the shield that covers the the fan in front. once that's removed you could get a better clear area to get to the alternator.
I've done this replacement on a 1987 Astro and a 1992 Astro. The '87 had several brackets for the other belt driven accessories that had to be removed with/before the water pump bolts, and it was a painful job. The 1992 had no extra brackets, only four bolts, and was a breeze. I hope that GM changed the style before your model.
I can give you general instructions on the '92 version here. Remove the plastic shroud that shields the fan. Remove four bolts and remove the fan. Remove the serpentine belt. Remove four bolts holding the water pump, and remove the pump. Clean the mounting surface of any gasket or gasket sealer (with a razor blade, being careful not to let any debris enter the engine block). Install new water pump with a fresh gasket and gasket sealer. Reinstall the serpentine belt, fan, and fan shroud.
You replace the bulb the same as a 1998, which is answered further down the page.
I have never replaced an ignition switch but the second part of your question raised a flag. You say that "sometimes it won't catch to start". Does that mean that nothing happens at all, or just a click, or the starter spins without engaging the engine? I'm certainly not insisting that your ignition switch is not at fault but if you are getting any reaction from turning the key then I'd be looking somewhere else. My past (and sure to be ongoing) problems in this area have been caused by corroded ignition coil wires, almost-dead starter solenoids and connections, and my own personal favorite, a large number of teeth chewed off the flywheel by an ignorantly rebuilt starter motor. Certainly if the starter is spinning I'd look for a bad solenoid. I've not had this problem yet with my Safari so I'm not sure if it's attached to the starter itself or remotely mounted. Having had both I have to say that I prefer the remote one. It's a lot easier to get at to whack at with a hammer. --------------------------------------- How about an answer that is actually useful? Tools needed: Spark Plug socket & ratchet Phillips stubby 7 mm socket 8 mm socket 10 mm socket 1/4" ratchet Remove the Center console and set aside. Remove the driver's side under-dash trim and set aside. At the base of the steering column, fold back the flap and remove the 4 screws. At the top, using the spark plug socket, loosen the 2 captive nuts. Hold on to the column, because it WILL fall. Remove the dimmer switch. Remove the starter switch. Reverse the procedures to close it up. NOTICE: don't tighten the captive nuts at the top of the column until you have re-installed the 4 screws at the base of the column.
1,6,5,4,3,2 same cpi engine as an s-10 blazer
We sent a Man to the Moon didn't we? Ofcourse its possible. Simply install the device and light sensor, then go under the dash and figure out what electrical lead, from the headlamp switch, controls the headlamp ciruit - you'll need a shop manual for this. Next, follow the directions that came with your automatic headlamp switch and install it inline, so it makes or breaks the circuit leading to the headlamp circuit. (simple right). Of course, first you will need a "device". You can find one here:http://www.beechhurst.com/AHM.shtml
Does it sometimes work and sometimes not? (switch or wiring or connection)
Does it start to work and then stop and start and stop and start (motor overheat)?
Does it make any unusual noises?
The grooves on each side of the window where the glass slides in, may require a little silicone spray. .
Both my 92 Astro and 95 Safari had the same problem. The following will also solve the Remote mirrors not working properly, door locks not working windows not working That being, where the door hinge is located on both drivers and passanger is where these wires over time open up completley, or, are just hanging on by the plastic wire insulation, which would account for it working sometimes and not somtimes. I just repaired them again this is the second time I've done it to this Safari. With a blade I carefully cut away the accordian rubber protector in the door hinge area. I slip heat shrink over the damaged ones, solder them back up. Then slide the heat shrink over the repair job and seal it. You will also see some that are about to crack these I skin back and apply a bit of solder to reenforce them as they will likely be your next problem,
Locate the brake fluid reservoir under the hood on the driver's side. It has two caps. Unscrew each cap and fill to the marked line. Replace caps. Pump brakes. If they feel spongy, you may have air in the line and need to bleed the brakes.
Initially since the fuel pump is located in the gas tank ,it is not a task for the average home mechanic. It is electric puts out about 15 lbs. pressure uses the gas in the tank as a coolant. In older models it is possible to have the pump wiring burn and short out.The results could be a fire or if you are fortunate pump failure. I replaced the fuel pump in my 1999 van. It took 3 hours (and we had a pit) and $500. part.If you don't know what you are doing find someone that does. hi it took me in my drive way 1 to 2 hours the most to pull the tank and put in the new pump. its easy there are 4 hoses comimg out of the tank thet are held on by clamps get those of then un clamp the filler hose then un screww u bolts holding the tank and it drops right down the u need to open the tank then u can put in the new pump witch is 40 dollars make sure its facing the same way as u took it out then u slide it back in close up the tank then raiseit up put the 4 bolts back in to hold it up the put the 4 hoses back on were they go tightin the clamps and ur done.i had 1 jack and my drive way
The EGR temperature sensor is located in the intake manifold between cylinders 3 and 4
I had the same thing happen on a trip to Florida this past fall. You have a broken vacuum line. Take the doghouse off and on either side of the intake manifold you will see a vacuum port with multiple lines coming from each. One side is for power assisted brakes, steering etc. The other side is for vacuum control of emmissions and air dampers of the heating/air-conditioning ducting. Trace out these lines and I am certain you will find one broken. Replace it and you'll be good again.
Agreed, mine seems to go out every year, but it is an easy fix. I start looking under the hood on the pasenger side right behind and to the left of where the air conditioner connections are.
To get to the spark plugs of the Safari Van, the best way to do it is to take off the engine housing in the passenger compartment. There are latches on the sides of the housing, plus two bolts next to the latches, plus there are two nuts down on the floor- you have to really put your head down there to see them. Then there are a couple of braces there as well. Just stack everything outside as you go, so you can put it back together in the same order when you are done. Having a universal joint for your socket will also make getting the plugs out easier. With the cover off you will be able to see all four rear plugs. The front two you can feel, but not see. You can either reach those from inside the van, or from underneath. The spark plugs may also be reached by jacking up the front of the van and removing the front wheels. Then, remove the rubber flaps in the wheel wells. You will probably need new fasteners when you put them back on. They are available at popular auto parts stores like Autozone or Checker.
it might be on the y pipe right before it splits, use ramps or jack to see it from the bottom.
Are you having a problem with the column getting extremely wobbly? Phil
Astros and Safaris often have a problem with plugged fuel jets. Once it's running the flow is better but the problem while idling is not solved. GM makes a fuel treatment product that works well to prevent the plugged fuel jet (recommended once a year)and it could help to use the treatment now. It could be your motor mounts and transmission mount are worn out. We had the same problem and we were told it could be the transmission, fuel system, etc. The dealer wanted over $500 to repair it. We got all three mounts at Auto Zone for $60 and my husband fixed it in an afternoon.
I believe that replacing the motor requires replacing the regulator and motor as an assembly. However I drilled the rivots out and repaired my old motor, beware it is difficult to get bolts that will clear the mechanism to refasten it back in place.
The temperature sensor to the computer is located on the thermostat housing. On the 4 cylinder it is on the right side of the engine block.
First you would have to jack the vehicle up, and safely put it on stands. Then you would go to the passenger side of the vehicle right in front of the transmission you would see the starter. You would see two screws that hold the starter up. The screws take a 14mm to unloosen them. Once you get that down there will be the battery wires holding the starter in. One takes a 14mm, and the other one takes an 8mm. Once you take those off then you can remove the old starter and install the new one.
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