easy, remove the large engine cover situaeted in the cab below the radio area, engine will be totally exposed, map sensor on rear off engine to rear of manifold opposite side to driver, email@example.com
the module is under the coils, unplug the wires, unbot all three coils and unbolt the module. Make sure to use plenty of dielectric grease for a good ground
Very difficult,I repaired my 91 Corsica by running a wire from my high beam connector(remove battery & look behind inner hdlite)to inside the car,another wire from positive battery post to inside ,find a good place for a toggle switch& connect to this
Remove door panel ,3 -10mm bolt hold mirror on pull slow till tou see power window plug disconnect replace with new.
The 1995 Chevrolet Astro fuse box is located in the engine compartment. The fuse box will be on the drivers side of the engine compartment.
It should be located beside the distributor. When looking from the front of the engine it should be on the drivers side. About 6-8 inches to the right of the distributor.
Hope this helps.
What kind of Fuel Injection system do you have? Do you have a fuel rail? If you have a fuel rail - it is at the tip of the fuel rail (front of the engine). There are two tiny bolts that secure the fuel reg to the base of the front fuel rail (bolts with tiny nuts on the inside - so be careful about losing them around the heat shield that is on top of the intake manifold).
Once you have freed the fuel reg. from the base of the fuel rail, it will come off of the fuel rail. Remember, to de-pressurize the fuel system (there is a cap nut on the side of the rail, take the cap off and de-pressurize). Sometimes, you do not have to de-pressurize (on the rail side of the fuel reg. sometimes that o-ring fails, and that willautomatically depressurize the system). You have to depressurize, or prepare to take a quick mini shower in gasoline.
Ok, the other side of the fuel reg. - not the fuel rail side, but the other side. You should see a VACUUM WIRE BLOCK JUNCTION. Fuel reg has a vac hose that plugs into a manifold fitting - disconnect it and lay it aside. Pull that VACUUM WIRE BLOCK JUNCTION directly upwards and it will come off (don't break it!). Under that juction block is a bolt - loosen it. The retaining clip for the junction block - remove it, and the wire harness retaining ring (flat pice of rounded thin gage stock meant to hold the wire harness on the front side of the engine manifold. Most importantly, remove the same style retaining clamp for the fuel line. Now, you can work on the Fuel reg. - it is freed up, and should wiggle around freely although it is still attached to the hose. I goota get back to work - this should be easy from here on out - reverse the procedure for installation and send $20.00 to Wulfmun! Just kiddin - good luck! Wulfmun.
if it is just a blown exhaust manifold gasket it can ruin your valves, so replace it correctly and make sure everything is clean before putting on the new gasket
IF you are looking to open the doors all the way. on the inside door frame you will find a guide and a spring that attaches to the door and the frame the flat steal guide set in a pin on the door frame lift it and it should pop off the pin this enables the door to swing all the way open.
The fuse between the battery and alternator is a fusible link in the small wire that hooks up to the battery terminal along with the regular battery cable. It looks like a thick spot in the wiring. To replace, the cable must be replaced. .
Try slapping the fuel tank, maybe the pump is gone. also bad for fuel line poppet valves under intakes. These vans will only run on a certain fuel pressure! Any lower and you can have problems. get it checked out fuel pump is in gas tank. To fix the fuel pump, the tank has to be removed (no smoking) ,so some diy mechanics cut a hole in the top above the fuel pump ,so the next time it will be easy.
Just fixed my the easiest way. Remove bottom screw through existing round access hole. Cut a hole in the side of the door adjacent to the top screw. Make the slot big enough to get your finger and a wrench into it. Remove the top screw, disconnect the rod on the old door handle by pushing the tip with a screwdriver, remove old handle. Install new handle. It is easier to pull the latch to open position to get it into the door and behind the long lock rod. use needle nose or screwdriver to align and push latch rod into latch BEHIND long lock rod. Put the nuts back on screws, tighten, test, latch. Viola. Patch new hole with metal plate or duct tape.
it depends on the vehicle but usually 5 minutes to 15 i have personally changed several myself and im not a mechanic by trade. Most have 2 bolts and a tension bolt for the belt
some cars require the radiator and the a/c condenser to be taken out just to see the alternator (2000) cadi deville book time is 3 hrs plus a a/c recharge and coolant flush. i wouldn't say 5 or ten minutes all car have a labor guide for all labor related repairs chilton and motor manuals you can go to a public library and get info on disc or books . i repaired autos for 35 years and you would not believe the places they put these things average time is 1 hr. and includes load test and alt output test
On mine, the module on the distributor checked-out OK; It was the transducer (I think it's called) inside the dist. You have to remove (mark it's position first) & disassemble (be patient and careful) the dist. to change it. I think it was around 40.00 at Autozone. Good luck.
If the light stays on, it shows that there is a hard fault in the fuel system, emissions control etc etc. Either disconnect the battery for 15 minutes or so or take it to a shop to get the code read..that will tell you what part is malfunctioning. There is no other way to shut it off because the light is controlled by the ECM.
I have taken it to the shop but the computer says there are no codes stored then the light goes out but a few days later it comes back on I take it to the shop and it is the same responce No Codes Stored and the light goes out
The fusible links on a 1993 Ford Ranger are located throughout the vehicle and primarily in the engine compartment. They prevent circuit overloads and must be replaced each time they are burned through.
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AFTER I RAN OUT OF FUEL AND I WAS INSTRUCTED TO LEAVE MY IGNITION ON FOR AROUND FIVE MINUTES TO PRIME THE FUEL AND TO MY GREAT PLEASURE IT DID THE TRICK, I DON'T KNOW IF THIS IS THE SAME PROBLEM YOU HAVE BUT GIVE IT A SHOT ,HOPE THIS HAS BEEN HELPFUL FOR YOU.GOOD LUCK.
My XJ8 refused to start after switching it off after only running it for a few seconds; I was told the cylinders were flooded with fuel (when the engine is cold more fuel is pumped into the cylinders).
The remedy was to start the engine with the gas pedal flat on the floor (don't 'pump' it); this will stop any further fuel being sent to the cylinders and will also clear them of any excess fuel. When the engine starts just take your foot off the pedal and let it warm up. Hope this helps.
My son's 91 sedan would crank over nicely, but never try to start. We sprayed a short shot of ether into the air intake and it started instantly. This proved that we had ignition, but not getting fuel to any cylinders. A shop tested for the electric pulses to the injectors and saw none. He then disconnected the wireing plug to the one injector that is accessable, and the engine started and ran on 5 cylinders. That one injector was shorted and was killing the pulses to all the rest of the injectors. If the bad one was one of the ones that are buried under the cover, we may never have figured this one out! Jim Harlan, Albuquerque If the above-answer didn't help, check your fuel pressure. You might have a bad fuel pump or pump relay
on v-6 the oil filter is the drain
Dude . . . the oil pan drain plug is near the oil filter on the passenger side very close to the transmission bell housing. Removing the oil filter will drain some of the oil, sure, but if you want to empty the crankcase you will need to pull the drain plug. Check your manual for the correct torque to use when replacing the plug and don't forget to use a new gasket.
There is no drain plug for the transmission pan so this is kind of hard to screw up. Just check your fluid levels after draining the oil if you're concerned you might have emptied the wrong thing. As always, I am not a mechanic and your mileage may vary. .
Depends on the car... If you can see the injectors, you'll need to disconnect the wiring harnesses from the injectors... (there is also usually a boot over the injector). You then need to disconnect the injector from the fuel rail. (careful not to strip the little fitting). You can then use a wrench or injector socket to remove the injector. Make sure you replace the gaskets and seals when installing the new injectors. (might need teflon tape around the pipe fitting where the injector feeds from the fuel rail).
Ok, jack up the front end of the truck and sit in on jack stands placed on the from crossmember (not the LCA), take off the tires, it makes it so much easier, next use a ball joint clam, or a 5 ton two jaw gear puller and use it to take tension off the torsion key bolt, take out the bolt and remove the thing the bolt bolted into with a pair of pliers, your probably going to have to pound on the end of the t-bar to slid it out.
he's a link to a Very well done how for torsion bar removal (it's written for chevy's but the same concept is for all trucks and cars with front torsion bar suspension).:
I deffinitily suggest reading that thread, lots of good info
Beside the battery you'll see a large black box with words stating "remove this to service air breather". The air filter is not IN this box, but you have to remove it to get to what the air filter is in. To remove this box, remove the two bolts that secure the box to the front of the vehicle, then remove the small hose that is stuck in the left side of the box. Then, there are two large, corrugated hoses that come into the back and bottom of the box; leave these hoses attached to the box, but loosen the hose clamps that secure these two hoses to the rest of the engine so that you can then remove the box with the two large hoses entirely from the vehicle. Now that the box is out of the way, look down into the hole to the right. There is a black rectangular plastic cover standing vertically; the air filter is inside this cover, also standing vertically and facing the right side of the vehicle. This plastic cover has two clips on the far side that hold it shut. Flip those two clips away from you, and the plastic cover will hinge open, with the opening away from you and toward the back of the vehicle. You can remove the plastic cover entirely if you wish; the hinged side (closest to you) is just some holes that fit over tabs in the air filter holder. Once the plastic cover is out of the way, you can see the air filter inside; pull it out and replace. Then replace cover, re-clip the clips and so on and so on.
1. A metal coating bonded onto another metal under high pressure and temperature.
2. The process of forming such a coating.
3. A protective or insulating layer fixed to the outside of a building or another structure.
does the lock on the passenger door still work? if nothing from either door then check every fuse on the car. if all fuses are good then check the power door lock relay in the right front kick panel. if not that then remove door panel and check if the motor will work with direct current to the lock.
1-3-5-7-2-6-5-4-8, with the Passenger side bank being 1-2-3-4 front to back and the Driver's side is 5-6-7-8.