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Here are several answers from FAQ Farmers: * If the trunk lock is broken, it's probably one of those things that needs to be replaced.. after all if your keeping valuable items in your trunk, you want something that will lock up. A lock is a fairly intricate peice of hardware, and with many small parts to it, it's difficult to fix. A locksmith, is probably not a good idea. They may not care about the car itself and cause more trouble than they are worth, a mechanic will be willing to replace the lock, or fix it if possible. The only problem this these locks, is that often, the lock housing is located between your cars outer...skin... and the metal framing for the trunk. Since these two have been welded and assembled in the shop years ago, they are extremely difficult to access. * It depends. If the sheet metal was damaged, that will have to be repaired first, or the lock won't seat properly. That's done by a body shop. The lock itself would have to be looked at-by a locksmith. If it's not possible to repair, a new one can be installed and keyed to match. This is NOT something many car dealers or mechanics can do. Removal and replacement of the lock cylinder isn't very difficult, BTW-if not self-evident, a service manual should show how.

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take off the old belt and try to turn all the pulleys, all should turn freely except for the crankshaft, (the big one on the bottom)

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Drain the trans fluid and toss it Take the Track bar off the rear axle Unbolt the brake line brackets from the rear axle Unbolt the lower shock bolts Use a Jack to support the rear axle and disconnect the rear shocks, then lower the axle. BE VERY CAREFUL TO NOT KILL YOUR BRAKE LINES WHEN YOU DO THIS Take the Rear Coil springs out. Take the Rear bolts out of the Torque Arm Take the Front bolts out of the Torque Arm Bracket Pull the Torque arm. Make a mark on the Driveshaft and the Rear Axle Pinion Flange so you know which side is up. Unbolt the rear U-Joint Straps. Pull the Driveshaft out of the Transmission Disconnect any sensors or cables on the Transmission Use a jack to slighty lift the Transmission and remove the Crossmember bolts Take out the Crossmember Remove the Transmission from the Bellhousing (4 Bolts) Have someone else handy and one of you get on each side of the transmission and pull it backward and down to get it out Disconnect the Clutch fork push rod and spring Unbolt the Bellhousing from the motor (10 or 12 bolts if I remember right) Take the Clutch Fork out If you are going to reuse the pressure plate then mark the flywheel and the pressure plate so you get them lined back up Put an alignment tool in the clutch Making a star pattern, (like tightening lug nuts), ONE TURN AT A TIME loosen the clutch to flywheel bolts YOU WILL HAVE TO RESURFACE THE FLYWHEEL, SANDING THE FLYWHEEL DOES NOT COUNT AS RESURFACING IT, THE FLYWHEEL WILL HAVE TO BE RESURFACED AT A MACHINE SHOP, if it is already too thin it will need to be replaced. YOU WILL HAVE TO EITHER HAVE THE PRESSURE PLATE REBUILT, OR BUY A NEW ONE. THROW AWAY THE CLUTCH DISC, IT CANNOT BE REBUILD, RESURFACED, OR OTHERWISE REUSED. Installation of the clutch is basically the reverse of the Removal

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I know there is one where you have to take out the transmission to get to it and one by the water pump. We had to take out the alternator to get to it.

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I don't know if this is the problem you are having, but if your trunk won't latch properly because the latch won't reach the U-shaped hook it latches onto, it may be that it is the hook rather than the latch that has moved. I had this problem with my car. The hook, which is connected to the car with two screws, had moved down over time so that the latch would no longer reach it. Even though the latch was working fine, the trunk wouldn't close because there was too much distance between the latch and the hook. I solved the problem on my car by simply loosening the screws on the hook, sliding the hook up and retightening the screws. .

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1974 1975 and 1976, he switched every couple years.

He also drove a 73 and 77, all of them were Esprit models these were a trim level above the base model.

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check the wiring for the turn signal, and check the fuse also. if anything bring it to a mechanic, or dealer and have them check it out. also, see if there is any recalls on it. just search for _(car name)_ recalls and you should find a place listing them.

Make sure the bulb socket fits tight in the back of the lense.Make sure the bulb fits tight in the socket.Vibration can cause damage to the bulb if these aren't tight.Also look inside the socket.You will see a couple of contact points for the bulb.Make sure they are not burnt or melted.This can cause too much electrical resistance and damage the bulbs. And make sure the bulbs are dry,no water leakage into the lense or socket.Try not to touch the glass part of the bulb with your fingers.The oil from your hand can cause "hot spots" and damage the bulb.

And don't buy light bulbs from WAL-MART. They are no good, nor are autozone ones.

Moisture may be getting into the assy. This will cause a short lived bulb.

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1. remove door panel trim. The regulator is riveted to the power window motor, with 3 large rivets. Three other large rivets atatch this whole assy to the inside of the door. It is important to drill out the rivets holding the regulator /and motor to the door, and leaving the motor attached to the regulator, because the regulator has a heavy spring that will be released if the rivets are removed. To separate the regulator and motor you need to drill a hole in the regulator arm, and place a nut and bolt through the hole, at a point that will keep the spring compressed once the motor is removed. Now that the regulator is secure, the rivets on the motor can be drilled out, and motor separated. The new motor needs to be bolted onto the regulator, or riveted. The factory rivets are large, and it is doubtfull you will find such large rivets, or a rivet gun for that purpose, so stick with bolts and nuts. reinstall the complete assy, and again bolt in the whole assy inside the door. bolts and nuts are a real pain in the butt to use in such a confined space, but again rivets of such a large size are hard to find, along with a real large rivet gun. I reccommend using nylon locking nuts so they will not come loose after a certain amount of time and vibration. A set of rubber door stops is also usefull in holding the window glass in the up position while work is being done.

You will find a rivet gun that size at Habor Freight cheap china made but will do the trick.

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The first thing I would check is the switch and motor (if they are power windows which most late model Firebirds are) if it is burned out, a replacement will be necessary. A more likey possibility is that the window simply went off it's track, after it went down. This is most likely if the windows were working fine. Use a screwdriver to revove the door panels from the inside and remove the plastic sheet to access the window and hardware, be careful however, because the plastic protects your cars electrical work from dirt and moisture Ok, what he said above is true, but unless it dropped or clearly jammed, its probably not off the track. I recently changed out the motor on my 92, and I will warn you, its EXTREMELY HARD. Once you do it, you will see why a shop wants around $200 labor for it. I heard that in 94 they started making them with nylon pulleys and belts (always trying to come up with something cheaper), so it might not be that hard. Basically, buy a new motor, have someone hold the glass up while you detach the motor/regulator assembly from the door, then work it out of the door the best you can (it will take a while, a long while) then replace the old motor with the new one (if there was a tensioner spring, make sure before you put it back in that the tension is in the right direction, you dont want to have to take that sucker out again). Put it back in the door, reattach it, and there you go, just make sure its the way you found it.

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The bulb is located to the rear(back near the #1) underneath the console plate. It is a smaller bulb like a #194. You do not have to remove the shift handle. Take out the ashtray, and carefully pry up along the edges of the plate. It is held in place by tabs that fit into the console. You'll be able to lift it high enough to see the wire to the bulb connected to the underneath of the gear indicator, twist the bulb housing and pull off, take old bulb out by pulling it straight out and replace. Assembling is the reverse of the above steps.

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1-6-5-4-3-2

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passenger side of radiator engine side about 4 to 5 inches down it has a clip on it just un snap and snap new one in after draining radiator about 5 inches takes about ten minutes.

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The F-body motor is notorious for dying. The replacement costs about $50 from an auto parts store and will probably take an afternoon for a first timer. Remove the door panel and take a drill to open up holes in front of the rivets on the motor. Procede to drill out the old motor then replace it with your new one and screw it in.

First you want to get the window up, if you can. If the motor actually hums, then press the button while pulling the window up, if you cannot get it up, then you are going to have to be extra careful not to harm the glass while taking the door apart and replacing the motor.

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?? if it is only the pulley /bearing you want to change...THE BOLT THAT IS IN THE CENTER OF THE PULLEY IS LEFT HAND THREAD!!! if it is the whole tensioner you want to change,,,disconnect battery negative,Drain coolant!! remove alternator, ...one of the alternator bolts holds the tensioner on, then there are two more bolts.. heater core coolant goes through this too! spray the plastic elbow that goes from the tensioner to the front of the intake manifold and also the tube that is under the tensioner with good penatrating oil, pry and wiggle very carefully straight out (I broke the plastic elbow on mine) clean holes for coolant and make sure you get new o rings, put engine oil or vaseline in the holes for the o rings.

You really don't need to drain the radiator- only about a quart of liquid will escape. However, be sure the coolant is cool before attempting this! Otherwise have an ambulance standing by.

Pull the tensioner assembly directly towards the radiator, don't twist or rotate it. Even being VERY careful the plastic tubes will probably break. They get brittle from heat. It was a terrible design choice but what are you gonna do they saved maybe $0.50 a car over Aluminum tubes.

They are a dealer item, about $20 for the pair including O-Rings. To be safe, I recommend you replace those plastic tubes when you replace the tensioner.

Also, if the plastic tubes break off inside the housing you'll need to get out the pieces before replacing them. Be careful not to damage the housings.

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Check for a short in the door to body wiring harness (the rubber by the door hinges). Look for exposed wire and/or a crack in the rubber loom. If you see visible signs of wear, expose as much of the wiring as you can and look for problems. A short will give the same appearance as no voltage that you're seeing at the fuse block. You could also disconnect the battery, remove the fuse and Ohmmeter the two fuse points. The circuit should be open. If you measure any resistance, you have a short in that circuit.

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Hey Amy==It's not very hard if you have any mechanical aptitude. First, take off the negative batery cable.Then takeoff the wires to the starter. Then the bolts holding the starter then work it out among the exhaust pipe. GoodluckJoe

Amazingly taking off and putting on the starter on my 91 firebird was the easiest ive had to take off in quite a while. You don't even need a 4-6 inch extension on your ratchet.

The starter on the 3.4L V6 is easy to remove and install, the hardest part is unolting the manifold

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All 1998-2002 Pontiac Firebirds/Trans Ams take 24" replacement windshield wiper blades on both sides front.

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I suspect they are like my 1999 Firebird. You have to go up from underneath. There is a panel that opens and then you have to reach in through that panel. When you feel the rear, twist it slightly and it will unlock and come loose. Be careful not to handle the new bulb. Oils from the fingers will mess it up.

You can also take the plastic cover off of your high and low beams and each down through the opening to get to the fog lamp. You really need a strong arm to do it this way, however.

I replaced mine OEM lamps (with sylvania silverstar bulb # 880ST) from the underneath on my 2000 firebird. After I got the panel open (2 fasteners) and twisted to remove the lamp holder, I found that the wiring was just barely long enough to get the holder clear of the opening. I did not jack the car up, and I suspect that it would make this much easier. USE JACKSTANDS! Also when reinstalling the new bulb I found it easy if I looked through the the lamp lens from the front. The socket is keyed so the lamp holder only goes in one way and about a quarter turn is all that is needed to lock the holder into place. Finally, DO NOT remove the screw at the top/front of the fog light lens. This is apparently an adjustment and if you remove this screw (as I did) then the spring which holds tension on the lamp assembly will fall out. It took more time to find and reinstall this spring and screw than it did to repalce both of the lamps!

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A great resource for that are Mitchell repair manuals. They're rather expensive, but your local library should have them, although most won't let you check them out. Since they are reference materials, libraries will let you use their copier.

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I have a 200 firebird also and this has happened to me several times. What it is, is a problem with the igition lock cylinder. When you turn the key, all the accessories come on but the motor doesn't even try to turn. It's because even though you have turned the key as far as you can, the key for some reason is getting caught on accessories. It usually will start eventually. I've had mine replaced several times.

Also bear in mind that one of the causes of ignition lock degradation is having a lot of weight on the key. If you have a very large keyring, consider using a separate keyring with just the car key on it.

#2 Hello, this is randall if it clicks at all it could be starter sylynoid,if dash lights go dim after the click you may have bad or dirty connection at batt,eng ground or starter check all terminals. someone.

Is it a standard or automatic transmission? If it is a standard it could be the safety switch on the clutch pedal that is malfunctioning.

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eagle made it, eagle was later bought out by Chrysler Actually the Eagle Summit wagon was made by Mitsubishi. I was also marketed as the Mitsubishi Expo LRV and the Dodge Vista wagon.

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I hope all you are changing is the arm ...remove the casle nut and washer on both the arm and idle and gently py it up....it fairly simple good luck