You should take your car into a mechanic and check the valves as damage can result in a broken timing belt
The top pulley has a mark imprinted on the side. Make sure the line is at TOP DEAD CENTER. The bottom smaller pulley has two notches. They face DEAD BOTTOM.
This engine, through trial and error, has no problem with valve damage as I tried many ways (after turning the engine by hand first to check for knock or seizing)
You may find what you need here. http://volkswagen.msk.ru A lot of this site is in Russian/Cyrillic but you will find that many of the service bulletins are written in either English or German (they are marked Eng or Ger). Just keep looking for your model B4 or B5 and the appropriate engine type eg 4cyl or V6 and you should find what you need. In case you haven't already carried out this work you will probably need to replace the head bolts as they are (almost certainly) torque-to-yield type. Tightening would be to specific torques, in two stages, and then a further angle. For example, you are looking for something like 40Nm/70Nm+90. These are not the actual figures but I just added this to help in your search.
in simplest terms, gear ratio is all about leverage
the same concept that makes a larger lever able to apply more force while moving a longer distance applies to gears. instead of comparing the length of the lever, you compare the size of the gears or number of teeth (which is the same as a measure of size if teeth are the same size since we are looking for a ratio or fraction)
the size of one gear in relation to the other is a "gear ratio". if gear A has 40 teeth and gear B has 10 teeth, the ratio is 4:1.
for gear A to go a complete revolution it went through 40 teeth, and if gear B went for a complete revolution it went through 10. what does this mean? it means if they are paired together--let's say gear A turning gear B--then for every turn of A, gear B turns 4 times.
how does this relate to speed and torque? well in the scenario above, gear B is turning 4 times as fast as gear A but with 1/4 of the torque or turning force (of course there are factors that influence this and there is more to it, but let's keep it simple to explain the relationship).
this is easiest to see/understand in a bicycle. when you small gear in back (wheel) versus a large gear, pedaling is "harder". the smaller the gear, the more the end of the wheel has leverage over it, however the smaller the gear, the less pedaling it takes to turn the wheel a full turn.... if you go to a larger gear in back it will take more pedals to turn the wheel but feel easier because you have increased your mechanical advantage on the ground.
in an automotive transmission, the input of the transmission can be equated to engine RPM (for this example) and the output can be equated to wheel speed (in this example), in 1st gear the output gear is larger than the input gear. this means that the wheels will turn less than the engine.... you will go 'slow' even with high RPM but you have more torque so you can start the car from a stop or go up a hill.... in the highest gear the output gear is smaller than the input, this means that for every turn of the engine the wheels will turn several times (this is called overdrive)... once you are already moving at a high speed you don't need as much TORQUE to keep the car going so you sacrifice torque in higher gears to gain speed and keep your engine RPM down.
if you are asking in regards to a differential gear ratio (like performance vs. stock) it's the same idea. the differential is just another gearset, like in the transmission, but this one can't be shifted. so if you have a differential that's lower geared you will have more torque at any given RPM but to go at a given speed your engine will have to turn faster than with a higher geared differential. in theory this will lower your top speed.
if you go with a higher gearset you will have less torque in any given gear, but will have a higher speed at any given engine RPM vs the lower geared set. -Ramsey Mesyef
I have found that a Chilton or Haynes Auto repair manual for the year and make of the vehicle (available at your local library)are an excellent source of information. They are quite informative on most parts replacement and how to troubleshoot.AnswerI have found that manuals for this model are as hard to come by as the parts are (Haynes doesn't even have one in print). As such, the thermostat is located behind the rear upper timing belt cover. You will need to remove the front timing belt cover, the cam shaft gear and the rear timing belt cover (in that order) to access the thermostat housing. The thermostat housing is held to the block with 2 bolts. Remove the housing and the thermostat is underneath. Remember do not turn the cam/cam shaft gear once the timing belt is off otherwise you will screw up the engine timing!
NOTE: Make sure you replace the thermostat gasket when you replace the thermostat. The gasket is usually sold seperately from the thermostat. It is a rubber gasket that fits around the thermostat itself, NOT between the housing and the block. In other words, the housing can not simply be sealed with silicone/form-a-gasket the way most housings can, you MUST use a new gasket.
Alldatadiy.com has the manuals available online for a modest yearly fee.AnswerIf you're looking for the coolant temperature sensor on the 1990's Pontiac Lemans, it's on top of the intake manifold near the timing belt end of the engine. Search for C6020-175719 and you'll find the aftermarket part for less (usually specified for the Cadillac Catera) than the genuine GM part number 3439088. I posted this answer here because wiki.answers.com routed my search for this sensor's location to this question.
You can go to the library and get a chiltons repair manual for your year car and it will have all the specs in it.
Hey Connie==Get a manual from a parts store on your car and it will tell you how. You may need to get a manual from MOTORLIT.COM. Good luck Joe
First buy a new thermostat, water pump and timing belt. Unsnap timing belt cover and remove top outside portion. Take off top belt pulley which is actually the power steering pump pulley. Note aligning mark on top timing belt pulley which matches a notch in the back of the timing belt cover. Also notice the bottom belt pulley has a notch which aligns with a protruding point on the belt cover next to the bolt where the back cover is attached. Remove the bottom belt pulley (not for the timing belt but the accessories) Try to align the top timing belt pulley which will align the notch on the accessory pulley before removing the pulley. Once the top pulley is removed you can remove the timing belt being careful to not move either base where the pulleys were attached which would mess up the timing. Remove the power steering pump (turn small nut on end of pipe into pump housing) and remove hose from other pump line. Now you can move the cover enough to remove the water line housing containing the thermostat. This should be replaced now since it is so much trouble to replace separately that everything should be done at the same time. The thermostat gasket has a slot to fit over both sides of the metal flange. The water pump is held by 3 Allen wrench bolts (metric good luck) and is also the timing belt tensioner. Install new pump and timing belt making sure marks and notches are correct and belt is tight enough using the turning of the water pump. Reassemble everything else.
The standard redline tires were G78 x 14.
Check the neutral safety switch,it is located on the transmission or on the steering column ,under the dash.
Hey David==It is 1-3-4-2. Good luck, Joe
The crank sensor is actually built into the distributor on this year (changed in 89). It is the four pointed mechanism underneath the rotor (white spinny thing), which is underneath the cap (black plastic thing, right of engine, 5 wires.)
The sensor is notorious for going bad, much before the electronics or coil. The coil is next in line, though.
It's a good idea to also touch the pickup coil and make sure that it doesn't move around. The distributors on these cars are well known to fail/fall apart. There are two different styles for 1988. Make sure you copy down the number off of the top of the distributor where it meets the head.
The firing order for the 1988 Pontiac Lemans is 1-3-4-2. I hope this information to be useful to you
its not to hard but you will need 1 or 2 friends to help the trani is not that heavy but it is bulky also you will need a very long ratchet extention about 3-4 feet to get to the top bolts easier should only take a few hours and use a rolling jack to reposition trani
don't know if they are same but an 88 lemans torque to 18 then two turns of 60 degrees then 30 degrees. if this isn't right check your local library they usually have great manual that you can copy pages out of.
fold your rear seat forward. there will be a flap in the carpet, flip it up. there should be a round plastic cap under the flap of carpet. remove the cap. you will then see the top of the gas tank. there is a fuel pump mounting plate. first remove the fuel line and unplug the pump. then unbolt the plate and lift it up and out of the tank. be careful because the fuel pump strainer may have gas in it and it will get all over when you pull the plate out. swap out the fuel pump and reinstal in the reverse order.
You can use either WD40 or some other lubricant to make it easier to move or gently tap on the hinges with a hammer to loosen them.
its been awhile all i know it runs the same as a Oldsmobile same motor it run conter clock wise
You have to remove the timing belt cover,camshaft pulley and timing belt.Itis near the top behind the belt.
The starter is close to the firewall in the back of the engine. So if you have the hood open and you are facing the engine, it is straight ahed in the middle and about half way down in the back of the engine. It should be a bosch unit.
There is a sensor screwed into the bottom left of the radiator as you face the car.
This is usually caused by a vacuum leak that can occur between the carbs and the intake manifold, or the intake and the heads. I would check that first, then if that all looks good, check that the distributor cap is fastened to the distributor correctly, and that the rotor inside is not hitting the cap itself. Another very important thing to look at in a multi-carb setup is to make sure that the carbs are all in sync with each other. If they aren't, one or more of them could be putting more of less fuel into the cylinders than they can burn causing misfires.
All of the above is true......you should also check the timing. An easy thing to do. I am sure the two setups use a different dwell setting, perhaps a different initial timing setup and advance signal.
The timing configuration on the lemans is on the V shaped grooves that are on the housing on the engine side and on the sprokets themselves. line them up exactly and it should be fine, I found that looking downward onto the housing while turning the sproket works best, by the way the water pump tends to move the belt when you are setting it back into place so compensate by moving the sproket in the opposite direction.
disconnet batt 1st then loosen screws to wireing and then loosen bolts to starter
== == Worth is decided by what a buyer is willing to pay for the car. In this case, unless the car has some special features, it is not worth more than 400 dollars. This car can be worth as high as $5,000, especially if it is a 2 dr. hdt. with a big V8. Go here http://www.nadaguides.com/uv/selectmake.aspx?LI=1-12-1-2081-0-0-0&Lnk=1&wSec=12&wPr=1&wPg=2028&ct=14 and check the value. You may be surprised at what this car is worth. This car falls into the muscle care era and the LeMans was the platform for the GTO. This makes it more valuable, especially the 2 door models.
the round button on the Dash above the radio. It is about an inch in diameter.
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