Reman or used engine. You can rebuild the lower end of the engine, but it seems like an engine that has cancer. That is, shortly after doing the lower end, the upper starts with problems. Just from what I have seen. Would appreciate any info anyone else has.
The best bet is usually a used engine for cost effectivness and down time concerns. Not much rebuilding happening at the dealership level, even for warranty repairs.
If it's new, you may have to cut it to fit.
You don't need to remove the fan to install it, just slide it in between the fan and the radiator. It will be a very tight fit, just go slow. Once it's in, you will need to install the 4 bolts on the top, and 2 on the bottom.
Hey Connie==Get a manual from a parts store on your car and it will tell you how. You may need to get a manual from MOTORLIT.COM. Good luck Joe
First buy a new thermostat, water pump and timing belt. Unsnap timing belt cover and remove top outside portion. Take off top belt pulley which is actually the power steering pump pulley. Note aligning mark on top timing belt pulley which matches a notch in the back of the timing belt cover. Also notice the bottom belt pulley has a notch which aligns with a protruding point on the belt cover next to the bolt where the back cover is attached. Remove the bottom belt pulley (not for the timing belt but the accessories) Try to align the top timing belt pulley which will align the notch on the accessory pulley before removing the pulley. Once the top pulley is removed you can remove the timing belt being careful to not move either base where the pulleys were attached which would mess up the timing. Remove the power steering pump (turn small nut on end of pipe into pump housing) and remove hose from other pump line. Now you can move the cover enough to remove the water line housing containing the thermostat. This should be replaced now since it is so much trouble to replace separately that everything should be done at the same time. The thermostat gasket has a slot to fit over both sides of the metal flange. The water pump is held by 3 Allen wrench bolts (metric good luck) and is also the timing belt tensioner. Install new pump and timing belt making sure marks and notches are correct and belt is tight enough using the turning of the water pump. Reassemble everything else.
Always check your repair monuel before using any tip to see if it will hurt your electrical or ignition system. Increase the rpm until the noise is heard then disable one fuel injector at a time. When the noise quits you have found the cylinder with the problem. If your engine is carb you have to pull one spark plug wire at a time to determine the cylinder. If the noise does not quit the problem is in the top end of the motor or the belt or acces. system. One last hint, cracked automatic flywheels will sound just like a rod bearing.
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It is the fuse for your Fan.
74 ground-pounding horsepower with the 1.6 liter engine.
There are no timing marks on the water pump.the only timing marks are on the crankshaft and camshaft gears.And if you're working on a quad-four engine as I suspect you are,you will need to line up the holes in the cam sprockets with the holes in the block and insert pins to hold them in place.The correct size drill bits will work good for this if you don't have the special GM tool.
its been awhile all i know it runs the same as a Oldsmobile same motor it run conter clock wise
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Drain the radiator of fluid, take the shroud off if it has one, take top and lower radiator hoses off the radiator, if automatic transmission you need to take the 2 lines that go into the bottom of the radiator off, unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the radiator in to the radiator support and pull the radiator out, to install new radiator just reverse the process.
According to my Chilton book :
The distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE
The firing order is ( 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 )
The engine cylinder locations are numbered :
firewall
5 - 6
3 - 4
1 - 2
front
And according to the picture , the # 1 position on the distributor cap faces towards the FRONT
You should start out at 6-8 degrees btdc. The higher you can run without spark knock or detonation, the better performance the engine will have. A higher grade gasoline may allow up to 20 degrees advance of advance. For stock purposes, 6-8 is fine.
A locksmith will be able to obtain a suitable key blank and be able to grind a new matching key. The other way would be to find a car at a junkyard that still has the key and pull the lock cylinders.
IT'S IN THE HOUSING BEHIND THE TIMING COVER THAT THE UPPER RAD HOSE CONNECTS TO.
The black plastic bezel snaps off around the instrument cluster if you use a flat plastic lever. Harbor Freight sells a set of plastic levers for cheap that do the job well. Down under the steering wheel there are some plastic panels that will need to be removed that hide some screws that allow you to remove the gauge cluster. I would recommend swapping the whole cluster with another from a junk yard, rather than trying to disassemble the cluster. Be careful disconnecting the speedometer cable. You have to slide your hand behind the cluster and pinch the end of the cable close to the back of the cluster and pull it off. The rest of the connectors simply pull off when you pinch them. The typical problem with a bad gauge is a bad voltage regulator on the cluster, which is one of the reason I suggest just using a junk part. It could also be a bad sender in the tank, as well.