Pontiac Grand Am

The low pressure air conditioning fitting on a 1997 Grand Am is typically located on the larger diameter aluminum tubing that runs from the compressor to the firewall. It is usually situated near the accumulator/drier. Be sure to consult your vehicle's manual for the exact location.

The yellowish substance in the oil of a 89 Grand Am Quad 4 engine is likely due to contamination from coolant or a possible oil leak. This can be a sign of a leaking head gasket or a cracked cylinder head, which can cause coolant to mix with the oil. It is important to have the issue diagnosed and repaired promptly to prevent further damage to the engine.

There could be several reasons for a loss of power in a 1992 Grand Am after reaching 40 mph, such as a clogged fuel filter, a failing fuel pump, a faulty ignition system, or a transmission issue. It is recommended to have a professional mechanic inspect the vehicle to diagnose and address the specific problem causing the power loss.

In very hot climates with the AC on while the car is moving slow or idling, the temperature gauge of a 1998 Pontiac Grand Am should ideally stay in the middle of the gauge or slightly above, indicating that the cooling system is effectively regulating the engine temperature. If the gauge goes into the red zone, it may indicate a cooling system issue that should be addressed promptly.

The pulley has holes in it so you can stick a socket through on top of the bolt head. Sometimes the socket doesnt fit squaely on bolt head so you may just have to take power steering pulley off first to get to the two bolts that run throught the top and bottom of pump. This way might be the easiest. And of course you have to unloosen the lines that runs to it and it will come off. So they are only two bolts to take off, and you have to use a socket and a wrench, or two wrenches to remove bolt and nut.

you will access it from the driver side, towards the middle rear . you will need to remove the air intake plastic cover to get to it. it's easy access once you remove the intake cover and hoses. the starter only has two screws, but be sure to disconnect your battery and power cable to the starter. I'm no mechanic and I've replaced it twice on the same year model and it appears i will be replacing it for a third time.

Turn key to the on position for 10 minutes until the security light stops flashing and turns off. Then take the key out and restart it. Its in your manual.

The oil drain plug on the 2002 4cyl Pontiac Grand AM is situated about 18 inches away from the front right wheel mounted in a horizontal position toward the back of the engine. It is a #15 size metric screw.

This is usually caused by a faulty passlock sensor requiring replacement of the ignition lock cylinder. To test:

Crank the engine momentarily (like you're trying to start it) then allow the key to return to the on/run position. Your check engine light should be on, and the radio should work, but turn the radio off if it's on, because you need to keep the battery charged.

Wait fifteen to seventeen minutes, then shut the key off and remove it. Then wait fifteen seconds (or longer) and start the engine. If it starts, you need a new lock cylinder. With the engine still running, press the key straight in. If the car stalls, you need an ignition switch also.

How high does it idle in park? It could be a few things depending on the amount of idle. It could be a vacume line, it could be your idle screw. If you will post or email me at mudislife2@yahoo.com the amount that it idles at than i can help you more from there.

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

Not usually, but you can tint your headlights red (NOTE: This is against the law)

Not having done it on a Lumina I will give you an answer that applies to most cars. Under the car at the bottom of the Raditor you will normally see a valve on either the far left or right side. Losen this valve with plires but be careful because many of the valves are made out of plastic. If you cannot find a valve just losen the lower raditor hose clamp and carefully pry the hose from the raditor.

answer if vehicle has valve, it is usually left hand thread so be careful it is also awfully slow using this valve however most cars no longer have this valve so just remove bottom radiator hoes from radiator if engine is hot be careful as coolant will be hot

Remove the power steering pump hose. Remove the wiring harness from the power steering pump. Remove the power steering pump retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new power steering pump.

i an not 100% sure on this one, but i am pretty sure that under the bonette there is a black fuse box as is under my wife's corolla. there are fuses for interior lights and a few others. there is a diagramme showing which one does what, otherwise, near your feet kick panel just inside the front doors. . Carl.

It's the "dome" fuse in the fuse box located under the hood. I had an electrical short in that harness and it caused the radio, clock, dome light, and the REAR RUNNING LIGHTS (?!?) to stop working. After replacing the fuse several times i fixed the problem by replacing the fuse with a self-resetting circuit breaker for less than $10. The only additional mod i needed was to allow for the addition necessary headroom required by the larger component.

The ignition coil is down between the firewall and the back of the engine

The knob you pull out is attached to the switch. To get the switch out, you will have to remove the panel underneath the dash, and some of the HVAC ductwork that runs underneath. Disconnect the battery. On the back of the switch, under the dash, there will be a little button you will have to push in to get the switch's shaft & knob to release from the switch. After that is done, you will be able to pull off the trim going around the face of the dash. It should just snap on. Then there will be a nut holding the switch to the dash. Remove the nut, the switch will come out the back, and then you can unplug it. Replace in reverse of these directions, only leave the swith shaft/knob for last. It will just push back into the new switch.

The cooling fan relay of the 2001 grand Cherokee is behind the front composite structure that hold the head lamp in place, specifically under the passenger side attached to the metal body, to get to it you will have to remove the front grill, then the head lamp assemblies then the front bumper fascia, then the composite structure that supported your head lamp assemblies, the front grill is held in place by 7 Phillips screws 4 on top 3 in the grill it self, the bumper fascia is held in place by 2 bolts or nuts securing it where the fascia meets the fender wells under the splash shield, this splash shield are held together with the bumper fascia by plastic rivets as well the bumper is held to the body in the front underside by 3 plastic rivets, once the bumper fascia is removed you get access to the screws or bots (Torx) that hold the composite structure to the bumper (Body) remove those and remove the 4 Torx (bolts or screws) that attach the composite structure to the metal frame that runs form side to side to which the hood latch is attached, pull the composite structure out of the way, paying special attention to the wiring of the head lamp assembly not to damage it, this wiring can be disconnected as well from the main harness, now on the passenger side behind where the composite structure was you will see the fan relay bolted to the metal body in the recessed area. Hope this helps is not difficult but it is tedious because of the location of the SPECIAL relay.

--remember not to touch new halogen bulbs with your bare hands. ---

--oil from you skin is not good for them --

--do not remove any screws, I did and it took 2 hours to fix it

I think this wins the prize for one of the most annoying headlight replacements I've ever tried. By the way, the high beam is simple, it just twists and pulls out. These directions are for the much more annoying low beams.

0) This applies to the low-beam bulb that is the outer one of the two.

1) You cannot unplug the headlight. The (probably white) connector cannot be unplugged - but you must remember the orientation. This will help later.

2) peel back the rubber gasket. It does not come off - you can only roll it back as far as you can. At this point a good flashlight will help.

3) now see a little metal clip on the bottom of the lamp-holder and a smaller one on the top - they are all part of one piece. It is the bottom one that matters. This remainder applies to the passenger side lamp. It is hinged on the passenger side and pressure-clip hooked on the bottom half on the driver side (other way round if a driver side low-beam). You must push the clip forward and down on the driver side to release it. The looped part of the clip should help you achieve this, but not necessarily. A thin, but long, screwdriver will help. When un-clipped you must push it back and toward the passenger side (remember it is on a hinge) and pull it out of the way as far as possible.

4) now you should be able to remove the bulb, the connector socket and the rubber boot all in one piece. The connecting wires are short and this will take some careful maneuvering. There is a black connector base for the lamp. Take it off the old bulb and put it on the new bulb...without touching the new bulb glass.

5) put the new bulb in. Use the same orientation the old bulb was in. The bottom (towards the ground) is shaped a little different with a rectangular tab.

6) Now it gets tricky. Roll the boot back and hold it back and orient the bulb to ensure the rectangular tab is at the bottom of the seat that hold the assembly. You have to ensure the clip is held open as far as possible while keeping the boot rolled back AND inserting the lamp and assembly in the correct seating. yes this can be a pain and if it's a real pain you may not have the bulb in correctly. When seated and with the boot held back you now have to fold the hinged clip into place and clip it back where it came from. This too can be tricky and again a long thin screwdriver and a flashlight in the hands of a helper should make it easier.

7) replace the rubber gasket. Do the outside first. Press the inner part with a finger tip...running it around the new bulb to make sure it is all the way down and won't interfere with the connector.

8) first time is ~ 20 minutes start to finish. Practice makes it about 10 min.

9) Mazda should be sorry for such a sorry design.

It is on the passenger side of the firewall, near the bottom of the car. It is just a small rubber hose. Use a pencil eraser to clean it out, don't use a sharp object or you could damage a/c components.

The injectors will be fused with something else. Get a wiring diagram from MOTORLIT.COM.

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

This is quite an involved job usually it requires removing the dash. you should contact a qualified service person.

I had a very similar problem with my 1996 Nissan truck. New plugs, wires, distributor and rotor only partly solved the problem. Then I replaced the O2 sensor and the probelm disappeared completely. Had 130K miles on the truck when replaced and the O2 sensor was shot.

You are probably having the same problem I'm having right now. My relay is located under the hood on the fire wall. If your car is like mine you will see a group of relay (5 I think) the one you is looking for is the second one from the left.