if you break the plastic rivets, use a soda tab for a washer to keep them in place SOME HAVE A PLASTIC RING IN THE CENTER OF BACK OF THE LIGHT THAT UNSCREWS ABOUT A 1/4 TURN & PULL OUT THE CENTER & SHOULD B A SMALL LIGHT BULB(HALOGEN) & DON'T TOUCH THE NEW BULB GLASS OR IT WILL BURN OUT FAST-IF U DO TOUCH IT-CLEAN IT WITH RUBBING ALCHOL. The best and easiest way is to visit autobodytips.net and download a how to video !!!!!!! Go to User Manual at http://www.mygmlink.com/pdf/go2content/manual/US/en/pontiac/2000grandam.pdf Go to section 6 (service and appereance care) and after clic on Bulb Replacement. After clic on Halogen Bulb and read page no. 251 to 254. You'l find picture and explanation.... Open the hood. There are two speed clips directly on the top of the headlight assemblies. Pulls DIRECTLY up on these clips or they will tend to bend. and the assembly should pull out from the front of the car. wala I have a 2001 Grang Am SE and there are no such clips. How can I remove the assembly to replace the bulbs if there are no clips to "pull up" on. Please help. I have a 2002 Grand am and I have the same problem, the owners manual is not correct. ok there are clips but they are under a p--lastic cover that goes althe way across front of hood, Remove those little platic clips. Then you will see these L shaped clips next to these screws that look like little stars that align headlights. what you need to do is use pliers and push back the pulls up on these clips. then the headlight shouls pe able to be pulled out. The plastic clips are rivets that need to be destroyed in order to remove the plastic cover. You cannot buy replacements - GM apparently does not make them any more. The local (Ann Arbor, Michigan) GM store (Jim Bradley) had to put in a different set of rivets that did not quite fit when I had them replace the headlamp after giving up with the manual. The two "quick release" clamps underneath are bolted on securely. These bolts need to be loosened before you can raise them - otherwise, you will (as noted above) just bend the metal when you try to raise them. I've replaced headlamps in a Chrysler and a Ford, but am very frustrated with GM. 1-14-06 My back is sore and GM ears are burning, but I got the job done. This 2001 Grand Am has a black plastic cover over those head light assembly clips. I used pliers to wiggle and remove the plasic rivets that keep the plastic cover in place. Some were maimed a bit, but still worked when I replaced them. The "clips" are near the star shaped screw heads that adjust the headlight beam. They are flat on the top and can be removed by using pliers opened wide; be sure to bend them away as you pull up since there is a metal lip that holds them in place. One clip comes completely out; the other pops up and stays in place. Now the head light assembly slides easily out. Once the bulbs are replaced, the assembly slides back into place. You may have to tinker a bit to get the white plastic blocks (through which those star shaped screws pass) to align with the black plastic slots. Be sure to reward yourself with a cold one or a fine cigar. You have earned it! Holy Cow! Forget the beer - I'm going straight to cocktails!! Thank you to you fine folks for the "speed clip tip" ( speed clip my @$$ )!! As one of those women who like to at least attempt her own basic maintenance, that tip alone was invaluable. I won't tell you how long I studied those stupid things before seriously considering the more expensive route...but I will tell you that once I had the secret, I replaced both lights, had the plastic cover installed and my nails clean in under 30 minutes. As a little aside regarding the fasteners and the retainer rings...just go buy new ones! They're cheap - and you can get them at the dealership. Fasteners are .75 each and the retainer rings are about $12 each. I bought mine before I started,(just in case) and I'm glad I did. Arizona sun is hard on plastic. Couple of the clips broke and the retainer rings have little tabs inside that fall off as soon as they're touched. KEEP the 4 fasteners at the very front - they're bigger than the others and of course nobody at the dealership offered that tidbit. They screw in from the back. You may have to remove the light assy from the car. Open the hood. The headlamp retainer "speed clips" are under the black plastic shield. To remove the shield, remove the little plastic "rivets". These "rivets" have a center pin and an outer housing. Using a flat screwdriver, gently pry up on the center pin. When it is about 1/4 inch up, pull the pin straight up and out with a pliers. Then, using a flat screwdriver, gently pry up on the outer housing of the rivet. It should come up easily. Put the pin back into the rivet housing about 1/4 of an inch and set it aside. There are two different sizes of these rivets, the larger, fatter ones go in the front center of the plastic shield. Once you have all of the plastic rivets removed, take out the plastic shield and set it aside. You can TRY taking out only half of the rivets, but the shield will keep flopping back into place--take all of the rivets out and remove the shield. Look at the headlamp assembly. It has two metal strips that hold it in place, located behind the star-shaped screws. These are the "speed clips". The one toward the middle of the car can be removed completely; the one toward the outside of the car pops up, but not out. To pop them up, gently pry the very top backward with a flat blade screwdriver and at the same time, pull up on the top rim with a pliers (or pry up on the rim with another flat blade screwdriver). You must pry them backward because they have a dimple that holds them in place. When the clips are unlocked, the headlamp assembly can be removed by rocking it and rotating the front of the headlamp upward. Do not adjust the star-shaped screws. Good luck with the black plastic ring that holds the headlamp bulb in place; I broke mine. Twist the black plastic ring counter clockwise one quarter turn or so. You can now remove the bulb from the headlamp assembly. Before you do, put on some eye protection goggles. Take the bulb out of the headlamp assembly. Unplug the bulb from the wiring. Discard of the old bulb carefully--halogen bulbs are under pressure and can shatter. Now take the new bulb out of its packaging without touching the glass. Plug it into the wiring. CAREFULLY seat the bulb into the headlamp assembly without touching the bulb's glass. Make sure that it is completely seated. Now carefully replace the black plastic retaining ring and rotate it one quarter turn clockwise to lock the bulb into the headlamp assembly (I broke mine so do this carefully). Re-install the headlamp assembly into the car; start with the headlamp facing up and rotate it down and level as you insert it. Then slide the "speed clips" back into place. They should "click" into place. Make sure that the headlamp is locked into place by the speed clips on both sides. Test the high beams and low beams. Replace the plastic shield using the dirt patterns to guide where it should go over and where it should go under. To replace the plastic rivets (remember the bigger ones are in the center of the car), make sure the pin is only inserted a little way, push the outer housing into the hole, when the outer housing is fully inserted into the hole, push down on the pin until it is seated. Close the hood. Now write a letter to GM about making this process take 30 minutes instead of the 4 minutes it takes on my other car.
Park the vehicle on a level surface. Drain the oil and change the filter. Add 4 quarts of oil, start the engine, and run for 1 minute. Shut off and wait 30 minutes. Check the oil level and add as necessary to reach the full mark on the dipstick. You now know the capacity.
remove the ram air cover under hood. there are 2 L shaped brackets that hold each headlight in car. lift / pry these out using pliers to gain access to rear of headlight.
First of all, I would have to know what engine you have because they are all in differat places. If you have a 3100 V6 its under the intake. It will not cause overheating of any kind. Let me know if I can help you in any other way. Ray
open the hood and take the black plastic off that covers the top of the lights ans look around the light for two tabs to pull up on and it should fall out but its a little troubesome getting back in.
I recently view many idea's on the internet in how to change your head lamp on your 2001 Pontiac grand am. I also responded to this same web page and answer the question by explaining the way from underneath the fender well and reaching up to the lamp for removal. Well skip that idea, yeah it's possible, I did it, but the other guy had it right!
All you need for tools is this: Channel locks or pliers, a trim tool that looks like a forked screw driver cost $8.99 at the auto parts( and you can use a flat head screw driver if you are careful), a flat head screw driver,eye protection,and your fingers and that's it!
First lift the hood and it does not matter which side of the lamp bulb you have to replace. Take your trim tool or screw driver(careful with screw driver) and pop the head up, not the washer part on the plastic pin retainers on the plastic ram shield that covers the radiator. Note: all the pins are not the same, the fatter pins go in the bigger holes, and the skinner ones in the small holes when you put the shield back together.
Now go to the head light assembly and look on top from one side to the other and you will see a metal tab on each side ( total of two tabs)Now you can try with your finger first, or use the pliers. Grab a hold of the tab and gently push away from you and at the same time pull up. When both tabs are pulled up about 1/2 way up or so, your head light assembly is ready to be pulled out. Now care fully angle it out so you can see the lamp bulb clip. Now don't worry you did not mess up your head lamp alignment, they are adjust by the small screws. Now take a screw driver and gently lift up working both sides in pulling the electrical plug wiring out from the lamp bulb. Then careful unscrew the plastic ring retainer and slide it out of the way and then remove the bulb by turning a little and pulling it out. Note: Don't break the fins on the big plastic ring retainer because if you do, that's a dealership item and it will roughly cost you $12.00 and hope that the nearest dealership has it! Second, when you install the new bulb, don't touch the lamp bulb glass area, this will add your oil base finger marks and will shorten the bulb life span. Third, make sure you wear safety glasses, if the bulb does break when you remove or install you will receive eye damage from the elements that make the lamp bulbs. Just be careful!
Now put the new bulb in and the plactic ring retainer, plug in the wiring. Now since you completed that part let's put it back together. All I need to say is this, when you put the head lamp assembly back in, apply a little pressure while pushing the clips down. Examine first where the holes are inside the frame where the clips grab the head lamp assembly. Now put the shield back in its flexable bend it in the corners and put the plastic pins in. That's it! The whole process should take you 15-20 minutes or less, and it's not that hard.
I forgot the guy's name, so credit goes to the man that I read this information on the website!
Open up the hood, and go in behind the fixture where the light is located. Sometimes there is an access panel on top. Open it and reach down inside and grab the bulb's socket. Twist the socket a quarter turn counter clockwise, and pull out the socket. Grab the bulb, and pull it straight out. To replace the new bulb, never touch it with your bare fingers, as this will greatly shorten the bulb's life, if it even work's at all. Use a tissue or something else in that order to handle the new bulb. Push the new bulb into the socket, put the socket back into the housing, and twist a quarter turn clockwise to secure the socket into the fixture
My wife has a 2001 Pontiac Grand Am. The drivers side headlamp went out so I tried to change it.I quickly learned that this was not as easy as I thought. It frustrated me for a while. The alternative was to take the car to a repair shop and pay the outrageous prices for parts and labor. At most libraries there is an automotive section. If they don't have a manual for your car,they can go online an search repair manuals;i our case, replacing the driver side head lamp bulb. You have to take the air deflector off. this is located under the hood on the front wall.It's held in place by about six plastic fasteners.You will see 2 metal retainers these must be slipped out . One will come all the way out ,the other will swing up out of yourway.Then you can lift the headlamp assembly away far enough to change the bulb. If not e-mail me and I can scan and e-mail you thdiagrams I got from the library. (email@example.com)
Additional text from Brennan Haley:
Thank you for the awesome advice not included in the owner's manual. Here's some additional stuff I found when doing mine. The six plastic fasteners (mine had eight) look just like nipples, please excuse my french. The nipple is separate from the aereola and if you use pliers to pull up on the nipple about a quarter of an inch, the rest of the fastener will pop out easier, usually you can do it just by hand. Once the whole thing is out, you can see how the two pieces work. Replacing them is just the opposite. Make sure the nipple is still out, and the fastener will pop back in easy. Then push down on the nipple, and it'll secure itself in there.
The two metal fasteners have little notches on them, so you have to push them away from yourself as you pull up, so the notches clear the plastic holder. I found that out the hard way, and cracked one of the plastic holders - doh!
I miss the old style headlights, they were easier than this to replace.
Just an add on after changing my drivers side headlight. The two metal fasteners are on either side of the headlight. The one on the left is the one to remove completely. The one on the left only moves up about an inch.
thanks for the tip, guys. could not have done it without reading your advices. one more thing i could add is when you pull out the L shaped clip, you need to push it forword a bit before pulling it. otherwise, it would not come out. someone mentioned it earlier...
be careful taking out the acutal bulb. the housing ring(?) broke in mine so i had to duct tape it back in...cheap plastic all over...
all in all, i see why GM is struggling for market share are almost bankrupt. they make crappy car. IMHO, i will never will i buy domestic cars again.
hey everyone...first thing's first! make sure that you understand that the entire headlight assembly(s) come forward and out. that is why you have to pop the metal tabs up, to allow the whole light to come out the front. then, you remove the bulb from the light assembly while in your hands, or resting on the front bumper. once you realize that, it's a simple process. good luck to you all!
-A. Baker and Dad (ok mostly Dad)
Take it to the dealer. All this crap about things being snap in, and pull out by hand and slide back in is just lies. That black plastic piece running the length of the front end will just fracture into hundreds of pieces at the slightest touch, the little clips that hold it in explode under any pressure. The little metal sliders that lock the ficture into position snap and break so they no longer hold the fixture secure. The little retainer ring that holds the bulb to the fixture will also explode under the slightest pressure. You'll need to replace at least 25 different parts in order to get the vehicle back together, and many of them are things that only the dealer will have access to.
Short answer: DONT BUY THIS CAR TO BEGIN WITH.
Unless your coolant has spilled into the driver/passenger compartment first you must drain the coolant out of the hoses and then you must remove the shifter console. Directly behind the console just below the radio you should see a square shape plastic box which contains the heater core you must open the box by unscrewing or unsnapping the fasteners. (Be patient. It's going to get a little tight but you can do it without having to remove the entire dash.)
Pay attention to how it's set up inside the box and just disconnect the old unit and replace it with the new, remember to retrace you steps when putting it all back together, it should take you about 1-2 hrs.
Don't forget refill your coolant and in most cases you have to have your A/C unit recharged after doing a heater core replacement.
Call your local auto-parts store and verify the A/C unit having to be recharged only if your vehicle comes with an A/C unit installed.
you losten the belt with the tensioner pulley. it is located below and to the rear of the alternator. it will take a 13mm box end wrench and I also use a 17mm box end for leverage. you will pull the wrench toward the rear of the car and slide the belt off of the alternator.
On the inside panel of the door you can easily pop off the tweeter speaker by slowly prying with a cloth wrapped knife or screw driver. If you can pull back the door panel a bit you can reach down and unplug the power assembly for the mirror. Then there are 3 bolts to undo that hold the mirror to the door. If you cannot unplug the power assembly cord, then you may need to remove or at least loosen the door inside panel - this isn't too bad and gives much easier access to the power assembly cord.
unfortunately, i believe this requires removing the timing chain because it drives the water pump. this can be a costly process ranging from 400 to 700 dollars.
Changing the water pump is a piece of cake. I don't know about the temperature valve though. To change the pump (on the 3.1)
1.Disconnect the water hose from the pump, catch the coolant below with a wide drip pan.
2.Using a serpentine belt removal tool (long thin rod with a 3/8 inch socket) loosen the belt tensioner and remove the belt from the alternator
3.Remove the 4 bolts from the water pump pulley. You will have to use a long screw driver to hold the pulley in place while you turn the bolts. Put the screw driver between 2 other bolts to keep it from turning.
4.Pop the pulley off. You may have to pry it off with that same screw driver if it's stuck on there. Be sure not to bend the pulley though.
5.Remove 5 bolts holding the pump in place, scrape off the old gasket, put on the new gasket with some sort of gasket dressing or sealant and pop in the new water pump. It only goes in one way or the holes won't line up.
If you happen to have a 96 ;or 98 gt model, which was the 2.4l twin cam, 5 speed manual. You have to pull the motor out. I don't know about timing chain being in the way or anything, but basically if you've ever changed an alternator or major part before, once you get the engine out of the car, it is one of the easiest jobs to do, just don't bend your pulley, and if you have underdrive pulleys (bigger than stock) you might want to make sure your using a brand new water pump, and not a used one. The temp guage, screws out, just put a new one in. Use TORQUE WRENCH.
It's under your hood. Another one is to your left; open the driver's side door and you'll see it.
check out www.gaownersclub.com or www.n-body.net, they have tech sections (do a forum search) on this, if one site doesn't have it, the other will. -matt
On the firewall. Located in the center of the firewall (in the engine compartment)is a black plastic box. Unscrew it and you will find the fan as well as other relays.
go to napa and buy a new 1 I think napa has the best reuilt starters.This is your best bet.
it should be up near your raditator. your local auto zone can tell you where it is. should be easy from there. just pop ouot the old and in with the new.
I couldn't find the PL20049, but I could find the L20049. The PL typically designates a Purolator PureOne oil filter. The L20049 is for small block chevy's. You need one of the following: 2.4L 4 cylinder: PH3506
3.4L 6 cylinder: PH3387A These are Fram numbers but you can cross these numbers into your favorite brand
Okay, I currently have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am GT1. I went to go replace my stock speakers and found it quite difficult. Here is how I removed the door panel and got access to the speaker holster:
(I SUGGEST DOING IT FIRST ON THE PASSENGER SIDE WHERE THERE ARE LESS WIRES AND COMPONENTS)
1) Take off the tweeter (triangular thing). It is simply clipped on and will come off relatively easily. Pinch inward and pull out.
2) Then proceed to roll down the window ALL THE WAY. This will prevent you from scratching or shattering the window if a tool slips. Next, pop off the window and lock control panel (with a flat-head screw driver) off the door panel (it is simply clipped in with 2 metal tabs on each side to hold it in) to reveal the inside of the door and ONE LARGE SCREW.
3) Start to take off the door panel screws. From what I remember, these are the screws and their locations: (in order) a) Small screw holding in door handle cover. (this removes the protective door handle thing)(the protective thing needs to be removed: simply pull on the handle while slipping the cover out.) b) Large screw under the handle of the door. (this will loosen the whole panel) c) Large screw UNDER the reflector plate on the door. You will have to take off the reflector in order to gain access to this screw. CAUTION: the reflector is VERY fragile and can crack easily. (this will loosen the whole panel) d) Large screw right behind the window controls. (this will disconnect the whole panel from the door itself.
DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE PANEL WITHOUT REMOVING ALL THE SCREWS AND THE PROTECTIVE PLATE!!!
4) Electronic Obstacles...yea...kinda hard to explain: Well, first off, the panel will not be able to come off without disconnecting the door control panel. Since you already popped off the window controls, all you need to do is disconnect the adapter that the wires plug into. On the passenger side, this is easy, simply pinch in on the two connectors and pull out. These "ribbons" may need a bit of convincing, but they DO come off. The driver's side electronics are EXTREMELY complex and are EXTREMELY hard to take off, to tell you the truth, I only rotated the disconnected door 90 degrees which left just enough room to solder and install the speakers. I did this so that I didn't need to disconnect ANY parts of the door controls on the driver's side. I only needed to pop off the window control panel, no disconnection of any wires. (the driver's side wires seem to have more slack than the passenger ones. I found this easy with two people.
5) Now for the hardest part, taking off the door panel itself. The whole panel is held on by white PLASTIC bolts that are ribbed. These bolts can be pretty annoying, but secure the door quite well. First, I started by the tweeter. There should be a small space where you can fit a hand in and start pulling. DO NOT PULL OR TRY TO PULL ALONG THE TOP OF THE DOOR, START YOUR HAND ON THE TOP BY THE TWEETER AND WORK YOUR WAY DOWN TO THE BOTTOM OF THE TWEETER SIDE (while hand still between the panel and the door itself). THEN START PULLING ONCE YOU ARE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR PANEL. As you work your hand down the door, you might here a sound of breaking plastic, this is what you are looking for. The ribbed bolts are being pulled out of their holes. Eventually, once a majorority of a side is out, it will make it MUCH MUCH easier to pull the remaining bolts out. Once you get the hang of hearing the bolts come out, and you are able to get a bigger grip on the panel, the whole door will eventually POP off. Now that it is popped, lift the panel up and it then should come off cleanly.
For re-installation, simply backtrack. Make sure all your electrical connections are solid and the door is connected securely to the door. Attach the door, put screws back in, put handle plate back on, and you're set.
Hoped this help, I know I needed this when I took off my door panels.
for the pump filter about 150 for the labor about 200-250
Since it is so high mileage I think I would just pull the pan and change the 4-6 quarts that are in the pan and replace the filter. If you go to a place that flushes transmissions, I have known that with the new fluid the lining comes off of the fiber plates.
. use atf+4 from Chrysler dealer or it destroys the clutches.
The specs call for a 16" wheel, but sometimes you see them for 17" or more. It depends on the model and what previous owners have done for it. Typically, they are a 16" alloy wheel
Changing the gas filter can be hazardous so care must be taken before you begin. DO NOT SMOKE NEAR OR AROUND THE AREA. MOVE ANY DROP-LIGHTS/LAMPS AWAY FROM THE AREA. Jack up the automobile and put jack-stands in the correct locations. Locate the fuel filter which may-be in front of the gas tank but behind the rear axle ***SOME AUTOMOBILES MAY HAVE MORE THEN 1 FILTER***. If you cannot locate the fuel filter there -- follow the fuel lines from the immediate gas tank back until you locate the filter. It should be cylinder in shape with fuel lines connected to each side. Remove the safety clips if applicable, unscrew any hose clamps if applicable, with a socket wrench, extension, and correct size socket find the bolts connecting the fuel filter to the body/frame of the automobile. First slide off the hoses that are connected to the filter *** BE FOR-WARNED!! GASOLINE MAY SPILL OUT FROM THESE HOSES SO WEAR EYE AND HAND PROTECTION. *** The clamp or housing of the fuel filter and pull it out. *** WARNING *** THE FUEL FILTER MAY CONTAIN GASOLINE THAT COULD SPILL OUT.Next hook the hoses back up to the new fuel filter. Re-attach it to it's housing, clamp, or bolt it back to the frame/body. Re-install any safety clamps and tighten the screw clamps. Discard of the old filter in a safe place.
Lower the vehicle off the jacks-stands and start the vehicle. Let the vehicle run for 5-10 minutes - watch for fuel leakage. If there is a leak check all clamps and fasteners.
The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.
A bad ground wire or wrong size wire could be your problem
Did you ever try replacing the plug wires with a good set. Cheep wires will make the coil get to hot. Will also burn up your distributer cap and rotor. Any time you use high performance parts all related parts should be high performance also. This is a fact cheep parts will prematurly ware out other parts.
the heater resistor is located under the passenger sides dash (near the passengers feet). there is an access panel that you pull off. some have clips holding it on, some have screws. the blower resistor is located in the blower box. the resistor itself you will not be able to see, only the connector. usually there is about 5 wires on this connector and they are in a row. disconnect the connector, there is usually 1 or 2 screws that hold the resistor in the blower box. remove screws, remove resistor from the blower box. reverse procedure for reassembly. .
Hey Paul==Look under the dash on the left side of the steering column. GoodluckJoe I just had to replace mine & there is actually one by the brake & another one attached to the column. It's an either or problem. Try the other one if the first one doesn't work. :) Jenny D. It is underneath the dash on the passenger side. It and the power center for the blower are behind a plastic cover.
I have both a 94 and 96 GP BOTH HAVE IT. can't go very far without one.Answerthere is no PVC valve on 3.1l grand prix.Poss.came out with the vavle in 95 or 96. AnswerI have a 93 Pontiac grand prix And my pcv valve is on the Rear valve cover. akiller3
Mine is on the front valve cover with 1/2" rubber hose attached to it.AnswerIt is in the intake manifold. There should be a hose going to the throttle body from it. AnswerWhen you replace it, be very careful. The rubber grommet on mine fell into the intake when I pushed the valve in. It is not easy to remove.
I'm not exactly sure who said there was no PCV valve and that it came out in 95. What an idiot. There has been some sort of PCV valve system on vehicle engines for decades. I'm sure someone may know better than I, but I think the last engines made without a PCV valve were the old flat head engines built in the 40s. There is most definitely a valve on your engine. It is on the rear valve cover towards the driver side. It is a little difficult to get to....and to get out....but I assure you it is there.
It is on the top back of the engine; there is a 3/4" rubber hose coming from underneath the air intake plenum/manifold that connects to it. Unless you have very small hands you will need to tilt the engine forward to reach it.
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