A typical senario with fords in general.
Just a stab in the dark.
Has it got spark.
To test for spark, place a screwdriver in the end of the lead. wave the screwdriver over the rocker cover about 2 to 3 mm above it and get someone to crank it. If you see no spark, I'd replace the ingition module.
It's located inside the distributor.
You will need to remove the distributor to replace the module.
You will need to mark the dizzy. I usually you a centre punch. Punch two dots, one on the head, and one on the dizzy, next to each other. That will tell you the position of where the dizzy goes.
Next remove the dizzy cap.
Notice where the rotor button is roughly. Cos the dizzy can only go in two postions. The right position and 180 degrees out.
Undo two bolts which secure the dizzy and remove dizzy. Good oppotunity to cha nge the dizzy o-ring cos they often leak after disturbing the dizzy.
Dismantle the dizzy and replace the module. Pretty self explanitary.
To test. With new module in, turn ign on. and spin the dizzy byt hand, you should see spark.
That's usually what goes wrong in Fords if it's got no spark. If it's got spark, is it getting fuel. Pull hose off end off fuel filter. and see if it's pumping fuel. Check both sides of the fuel filter for blocked filter.
If not pumping, replace fuel pump. They usually blow a hole in the diaphragm, so it won't pump fuel.
Other then that, that's what usually happens.
this one is not very easy! you have to go through the same process as changing the timing chain because it's the chain that drives the water pump. you have to take off the passenger side motor mount. then you will need to remove the drive belt. after that you have to take off the crankshaft damper pulley. then you have to remove the timing chain cover. then you will see a little gear towards the back of the motor about mid way up. and even then you have to remove the timing chain, the lower crank sprocket and the cam sprockets. then take off the casing behind that to access the water pump... if your are going to do this, i suggest you get a manual. worth it's weight in gold! it's impossible to do this without one. and you might as well do the timing chain while you have it all apart. it's not impossible but it's not easy! i just did mine.
before you go through all this make sure you replace your thermostat first. fallow the coolant lines into the block on the drivers side of engine. there are two bolts holding the goose neck in. the thermostat is behind that. make sure to drain the radiator first. there is a drain plug but it is almost impossible to get at. the best way to drain it is to remove the black hose on the lower part of radiator on passenger side. it connects into a metal hose right next to the oil pan. alot of times it can just be the thermostat.
it sounds like alot for the thermostat but it's not that bad. especially if that's all it is. but if you have to do the water pump, then good luck! just get a manual first though. it'll save alot of headache!
Yes you can. I purchased a rebuilt set from Davie's corvettes parts and accessories in 2004. They cost me about $400.00. The old pullies are removed from under the seats and from behind the shoulders of the driver and passenger seats. The car will have manufactured holes in the body to insert the bolts through. Good luck Correct. They're available from almost any Corvette specialty supplier, not just Davie's. I would NOT recommend a used set, EVER, since you really don't know exactly what kind of shape the mechanisms are in. -ku2002 1976 Corvettes came from the factory with shoulder belts, FYI. Anyhow your old ones can be restored to factory new condition by a company called SSnake Oyl. --Dave.
Spark plugs are threaded into the cylinder head on the engine. They are sometimes hard to locate because of the use of composite materials used to hide their appearance. Automotive manufacturers like the idea of a sleek flat looking engine bay, so they hide it all behind plastic.
Look for 4, 6, or 8 (depending on the number of cylinders in your vehicle) wide heavy gauge wires grouped together. Follow these to your spark plugs.
One note to add, not all cars have ignition wires. Such as the GM quad 4 motor for one. On the top of the motor there is a coil housing cover that needs to be removed to access them.
Follow the top radiator hose to the engine. You have just found the thermostat housing. Remove the 2 bolts and replace the thermostat and gasket if your engine uses a gasket. Be sure to note the orientation of the original thermostat before removing it.
Do NOT pour any additives into your power steering. Car makers specifically warn against these additives--especially anything with teflon in it. It can clog filters and destroy your P.S. pump.
Chrysler vehicles must be bled with a vacuum pump to remove any air.
If it still whines, the filter may be plugged. Here's how to replace it:
It is possible that it was not bled correctly. It may also be that because when the fluid gets hot it thins out, as with any type of oil. There are a lot of aftermarket products that claim to fix things such as this--I would recommend Lucas, or depending on the type of car, if it is not factory equipped with ATF for the power steering fluid, to switch it over to ATF, as tranny fluid is a better hydraulic fluid than power steering fluid, and will not harm any power steering components. In fact, most vehicles produced from 2002 on, use ATF as a factory-installed steering fluid.
I hate to tell you that the dealer draws from the same pool of techs that anyone else would. Not to mention the techs at a dealer are generally paid on the amount of work done. Sooooo... why do you assume that it was bled right?
I have a Nissan Altima '95. The engine of the car gives a very thin cranking noise when it is started. Auto repair guys told me that I need to replace the power steering pump. Can it be the reason for this?
( bled right ) is a great dealerships do not care , they are there to make money mean your money , you need to see if they ( the dealer) filled it with fluid. again they don't care about you or your property , ( money) is all.....
BLED RIGHT is the best i have seen, it doesnt matter how many times you change the pump if the reservoir where your fluid goes is dry or empty that is what is making th whine noise you hear nothing more nothin less. if you have no water in your washer its simply not going to wash right well same with the power sterring no fluid no turn, your trying to force a machine to do something it has no power sterring fluid to help it do. ITS SIMPLY DRY of FLUID!!..
There are many reasons to cause a whine even after bleeding. They include air in the system, plugged filter (though not all cars, particularly older cars, have a power steering fluid filter), and age. It is not uncommon that the pump itself may have problems with its working parts. My best suggestion is to replace the filter and use ATF fluid. Otherwise the easiest way to remove the whine is to replace the pump itself, which could be wearing out anyway. And no, it is not simply dry of fluid.
Yes, the '76 came standard from the factory with shoulder/lap belt combo. Top part bolts into pillar and bottom bolts in right by the seat mount. Good luck! -ku2002
Yes, 1976 Corvettes did not come with lap belts only. They were equipped from the factory with shoulder belts. (Or the shoulder/lap combo) mentioned above. But it wasn't an either/or deal. Plain lap belts were never installed in 1976 Corvettes.
It's possible that this is due to a faulty time delay switch
It could be a shorted wire. Some companies use low side switching. If the wire that is being switched by the door pin gets shorted to ground you will never be able to turn off the inside light. Good luck.NewDon't forget the obvious...Check that the switch isn't in the "ON" position by placing it in the "DOOR" or "OFF" position...BB
It's quite easy.You have to disconect the battery first.Then go under the car and the starter is located where the engine meets the transmission.There are only 2 bolts.They are straight up and down.Take the bolts out and the starter will drop(will not fall all the way out).Then disconect the wires.Now the fun part you have to get it out of the engine compartment.To do this you have to just keep trying different angles until it comes out.Then to re-install just reverse the process.It is very important to disconect the battery before you do anything(Risk of sever electric shock).
Unless you have the tools and know how, this isn't a recommended do-it-yourself job.
The whole general process (for 1992 - 1996 Camry... 2000 should be similar) is at this link:
I'm doing the same thing on my 1996 Camry. 'Got as far as removing the door panel and am ordering replacement part online.
In addition to the advice at the above site, I found another trick to removing the trim around the inside door handle. The above article refers to putting a screwdriver UNDER the door handle and pushing down ... to release a "secret latch". That's the first step. The second step (which is not in the article) is to insert the scredriver ABOVE the door handle ... vertically above the spot in the above article. Then gently press the screwdriver handle down. With the screwdriver acting as a lever, the tip of the screwdriver will push UP on the top part of the trim. That will lift the trim up off a small pin on the handle mechanism. With both the bottom and top of the trim piece now "unlatched", slide the trim toward the back of the car, while you open the inside door handle (as mentioned in the article). The trim will come right off. Be sure to slide the trim toward the back of the car, as you move the trim away from the door panel. (There is a "hooked" piece of plastic on the back of that trim that prevents you from just pulling it out perpendicular to the door panel.) 'Hope these fine points help.
PS. My 1996 Camry had 2 screws on the bottom of the door that also were holding the interior door panel in place. That wasn�t in the article.
There maybe bubbles accumulating inside of the over flow container after the vehicle runs up to temperature. There could also be an increase in fluid measured by the oil dip stick. Antifreeze burns white if leaked into the cylinder of the vehicle.
to take out the rear deck speakers you must remove the rear seat ,the rear side panels and the rear deck cover then you will gain access to the screws that hold the speakers in .
sorry to improve your answer u will need a socket set ,torx sockets and a straight and Phillips screwdriver.first you unbolt the 2 10 mm bolts holding the bottom rear seat in (they are located under the front near the floor of the lower seat)..then remove the lower rear seat from the car.Then you will see the 2 torx bolts that hold the rear seat back in .unbolt them and push up on the seat ,it should slide up thewn come out .then you remove that from the car.then you need to remove some various Phillips screw from the rear deck side panels and pop them carefully from the side of the car.then you lifrt the rear deck out and bam there is the screws holding the rear speakers in.remove the four screws from each speaker then remove the speakers then your done ..repeat procedure to reo reinstall.(could be various screws in certain areas that is unknown due to you do not post the year of the car.)
If you're mechanically inclined I recommend you buying a Chiltons or Haynes repair manual for the 1992 Grand Prix. Most provide the info on removing and reinstalling these parts also you might check your local library/s for these manuals. , EzForJesus
apply parking brakes jack front end of car up and put on jack stands remove tires remove brakes and rotor remove spindle by taking of twwo bolts and nuts pull spindle forward take off cv bot clamps and cv shaft will slide out
Need make, model, year and engine. example: 1990 GMC K1500 w/350 engine.
There are 3 at the front of the engine and 3 at the rear of the engine, just follow the spark plug wires.
U loosen up the selector linkage 4 the transmission so the key will return 2 center...
Sometimes... Or, the problem could be that the wheels are pushed up against something, preventing the steering wheel from unlocking. In this casem, you have to muscle the steering wheel to get the key out.
Or, the ignition switch itself, which has nylon gears that can strip and break, has gone bad. To replace it, the steering wheel and other pieces have to come off.
Hey Leigh==If it shakes when wyou applly the brakes, the front rotors or rear drums are warped and need to be turned. This can also cause the ABS light to come on . Good luckJoe I had this problem with my car and my dad got a hold of it and looked at the trans as it was having problems. He tightened the tail shaft and it hasn't done it since. I don't know if you have fixed your problem, but maybe that will help, I don't know. Good Luck Kenneth
if you are talking about the coolant drain hose there isn't one on this model.
you have a leak in the port side vacuum. try spraying choke cleaner with the straw on the end around the vacuum lines with the engine running, when you hear the engine rpm raise you just found the leak....
Some people will remove the two front motor mounts (dog bones) and with the car in park push the car forward to rotate the engine and apply the parking brake to hold the car. (Carefull not too far and damage the radiator) If you can get your eng to rock forward, that gives you more room in the rear to remove the back three plugs -this is the easiest way. Or with alot of patience and small hands (because there just isn't much room behind the engine) a swivel and an extension.
I would recomend that you replace the plug wires at the same time because the boots usually break when you remove them and with the engine rotated forward they are easier to get at.
When re-installing the new plugs, it is important to make sure you get several turns on the plug before putting a wrench on it. The last thing you want to do is cross thread a spark plug. The new plugs should almost bottom out before requiring a wrench.
Dont skimp on plugs and wires, pay the extra $$ for premium and save yourself some headaches and performance problems.
Hope this helps.
//This may not help on the 1999, but my 2002 GT has a hole on one of the "dog bone" bracket mounts that keeps the engine pitched forward. I used a two foot cheater bar to roll the engine forward and put the bolt through this hole and the bracket. This gave me enough room for my larger hands and the tools that I used. Hope this helps. Peace. - Spartandude
I drive a 1996 Grand Prix SE v6 (3.1L) I just did this about ten minutes ago. the front 3 plugs were a no brainer. For the rear three i did what everyone said with rolling the engine forward. I un-bolted the front 2 engine mounts and raised them out of the way. On a flat surface i put the car in park (engine off), and began to rock it forward. When it was up far enough i locked the e-brake (takes a few tries to get it in the right position). I then proceeded to lay on top of the engine and reached behind. The view of the plugs are still very limited, however it is MUCH easier this way. It becomes a game of fondeling the plugs essentially until you can get the plug boots off. i dont know about anyone else's, but my plug boots were all stuck on in the rear. No matter how good u are, u still need an extension bar, or else dont even try. I used a spark socket and about a 7" or 8" extension bar. the whole thing took me about an hour, as i have never done it before.
Flushing the radiator may help with the cooling problem but not necessarily make the engine run smoother. If it is a 6 cyliner engine check for a possible leaking lower intake manifold gasket. If the LIM gasket is bad, it may be leaking coolant into the oil and possibly into the cylinders. Also it may leak externally or it may leak internally. Go to http://www.gaoc.com for more info on this problem. If this is the case, it is a serious problem and you shouldn't drive the car until you get it fixed. I have owned these cars in one form or another since 1994 and the radiator leaves a lot to be desired. The radiator seems to clog very easily. So it requires a lot more maintenance that GM likes to admit. I have never had a problem with the thermostats and only had one water pump failure. I also have never had a problem with the fan but, like others have said, they should be checked as well GOOD LUCK!! Sometimes having the radiator flushed will help; however, it may be your themostat is sticking causing the motor to run hot. If this is the case, you should get a new themostat installed. Also check that the fan is running with the engine hot and in idle. The fans wear out may need replacement. It may also be the fan control circuit. I had that problem! Make sure your radiator cap is not missing the seal! Without the seal pressure is not kept in which will cause the engine to overheat! Simple problem, cheap fix!
On the inside of the door is a plastic cover that comes off with the removal of two nuts. From under the cover, you can access the bolts that hold the handle on. Once you get in there it is quite simple. Also note that if the handle starts to stick, you can adjust it with "Latch mechanism arm thingy" also accessible under the cover on the inside of the door.
put the car into fifth gear and push it backwards to clear all of the water out of the cyclinders. (when pushing the car it will be VERY heavy because you need to turn the engine over too. Make sure its not switched on!!!!!!!
buy the repair manual for the car, it gives this repair step by step. It's also handy to have for future repairs and it only cost $15-$20. It's worth it.
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