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I have a 95 G20 that used to do the same thing. I replaced the knock sensor and the EGR Solenoid. Both of these sensor's can cause the idle on the car to be erratic and stall. If you buy the parts and do the work its an easy fix for around $200, the labor will surely make this around the $400 mark.

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they suck. replace or repair the unit

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If its a 2.4 twin cam its right on the top of the motor in the front. If you buy the part first. After you see what it looks like you should be able to see the mount for it. It only has one bolt holding it on and is very easy to change. The part only costs about $26. Good luck!

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Go here for a full set of instructions, with pictures. http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17719

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No, Loosen the tire bolts a bit, Jack it up by the frame so the wheel hangs, take off the tire. (Always use a jack stand for safety)

Spray the 4 nuts holding the the upper control arm bracket against the wheel well with a thin penatrating spray. Also spray the 2 bolts on both ends holding the control arm in place. Now go do something else for a while, Like change your oil or clean your interior. Spray the nuts and bolts again, it's been 16 years since they were installed. Go take in a show or take a mini vacation to the Azores. Spray them again. Use a half inch drive braker bar with a long extension to lossen the 4 control arm bracket bolts. You may have to use an impact driver if the breaker bar doesn't work. Loosen the 2 long bolts that hold the control arm in place. Now disassemble the hole mess. Reverse the process, take it for a spin, your front end play should be gone. Now go have a beer. Good luck, Eric J

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check your wheel speed sensor if it checks out try and change your tranny oil n filter

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check to see if anything fell apart (like if your window fell off track) and if it looks good have your window motor tested and if that's OK then check your window up and down switches.....I had the exact same problem with my 91 New Yorker, what I did was to take the inside door panel off and then manually lifted the window frame and placed a long screw in the metal bar that held it up... this was drastic as now it will not come down, but what's a girl to do when the motor dies? They are expensive.. and this was a quick fix.

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Is the radio playing? If so, it could be the bulb is burned out, or the grounding needs to be checked out.

Replace all the fuses even if they seem not blown it worked for me!

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Contact me at john.smithson@navy.com and I will email you the shock absorber removal and replacement procedures.

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This is easy, never change hot !!!! you will be burned!!! Follow the lagre hose at the top of your radiator, you will come to where it ends at a domed shaped connector. This is the housing. remove the hose then take out the 2 bolts on the housing. Take out the thermostat and inspect for missing pasts. clean the old seal off of the head and housing, replace the thermostat and seal. make sure you do not put in the new one upside down, look at the old one when removing. Put the hose back on and check fluid levels, replace if needed.

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on the side of the valve cover on the drives side.

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Hi, I had a similar problem this year (2006) with my 1995 G20. Lost all the dash lights, ashtray, etc. I took it to a dealer here in So. California and they had to replace the entire flexible circuit board in back of the panel. Part cost= $90. Labor=$200. And the part had to come in from Japan, so they told me, because there was none available in North America. I would go to a salvage yard if this ever happens again. Take a few screwdrivers to get the dash cover off and remove the circuitry. Has to be a lot cheaper than the dealer

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On the lower left side of the dashboard is a switch to turn on the cruise control. Depress the switch downward to activate. Once activated, set the speed on the steering wheel speed control.

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There are a few resons for this, usually bad wire connections or a short. It is best to take it to a mechanic that is an automotive electrician to diagnose the problem. This is the best advice on this I can give, but if something is killing your voltage regulators. Also have the alternators checked at an auto parts store, they may still be good. Check the battery and charging system, usually free at auto zone or advance. If you have a week battery the security system can drain the battery.

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[check your starter. that was the problem with mine. 94 G20] Original Answer

We just fixed my sister's '95 G20 start problem and ours was a recessed pin in a connector in the starter relay wire (the small wire that's attached to the starter). but there are a few tests you can do;

1. This one is simple: make sure everything is hooked up like you were going to start it on a normal day, then turn your headlights on and try to start it. If it sounds like it tries and the headlights dim (even a little) it's likely a dead battery. if there's a click/no click and then nothing and headlights don't dim, you've got an open somewhere in the starter circuit.

2. If the engine cranks over no problem, but just won't start firing and driving itself, you've likely got either a dead fuel pump or a clogged fuel line/filter.

3. have someone listening under the hood when you turn the key to the on position to make sure the clutch inhibitor relay is clicking (should click once when the key is turned to the on position).

If you're a Do-It-Yourselfer, here's some solutions you can try. If not, take it to a mechanic and tell him/her your findings and let them go from there.

1. If you have a multimeter/voltmeter and ohmmeter, you can investigate an open fairly easily-BE CAREFUL with the voltmeter test as you will have to have the battery plugged in. start by pulling the starter fuse (if it's like my sister's, it'll be tucked underneath the front driverside quarter panel under the hood, (should be able to access it just behind the battery). you can do an ohm test on the fuse itself to make sure it's good (if it's not transparent, otherwise just look at the metal arch inside it to see if it's separated). then a voltage test with the red lead in one side of the fuse plug and the other on the negative side of the battery or a good ground like the frame or the engine; you should get 11.9v-12.4v. (if you don't get voltage try moving the red lead to the other side of the fuse plug). Do you get voltage? Yes: your issue is farther down the line, closer to the starter motor. No: you have an open between your battery and the fuse. continue testing this way all the way to the starter motor. once on the other side of the ignition switch you can switch to ohm testing, just make sure the key is in the OFF position or you'll fry your tester. Here's a couple wiring diagrams for manual or automatic transmission:

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Defiantly agreed DO NOT FLUSH TRANSMISSION also ammaco in SLC UT 600s 300w Will scam you out of your money

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Hi,

Check the decal pasted under the hood. I have a 1995 G20 and it is OBD II. Those cost a lot more than the I.

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<<call the dealership>>

1993.5 Infinity G20 alarm removal / disengage /disconnect. Pulling the wiring connection off of the theft module cured my problem, who needs an alarm on a 1993 car anyway? The alarm mode was on with dead key FOBS and no way to reset it, horn beeping, would not start, and the alarm would not turn off with the key or remote.

1. disconnect battery

2. disconnect theft module, the theft module (black box the size of a pack of cigs) is located next to and right of the steering column next to the flasher module (turn flashers on and you can feel the flasher module pulse). It is tucked up under, but the push tab can be reached as you pull the connection out, I took the steering column cowling off and the metal dash shield so I could get at it better (a few screws and bolts., no big deal)

3. assemble dash

4. connect battery

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look from the bottom on the back side of the engine you'll see it there. When you get under the car, it's in the middle of the engine/gearbox, above the exhaust, to left from the oil pan. it's easier to see if from the right side (passenger).

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It mounts to the bell housing of the trans. Jack the car up, (use secure jack stands for safety) On G20's it is tucked up so that replacing it is difficult. From underneath look behind the motor on the drivers side.

Cute isn't it?

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I have an original Infinity manual and also a CD-ROM with the 1993 Infinity fully illustrated and it lists both the Mitsubishi and Hitachi. I believe it's okay to use either. The spec design is almost the same! Bob F.

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Synthetic 5W-30 is the recommended oil for this vehicle with the 2.0 liter 4 cyl. engine

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I've had same problem, very occassionally, the solution was to wiggle the shifter. Perhaps this was due to some sensor that doesnt let the vehicle start unless in park? Also pressure from the steering wheel against the key lock will hold the key. Turn the wheel off the lock.

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I don't know how long they go for but I have 268,000 miles on my 91 G20 and it still goes. I have been told that they can go over 300,000 miles no problem. I hope that this helps you.

Yeah i got a 93 Infiniti G20 and it has 230,000 miles on it and runs like a top !!

I've got a '93 G20,when I bought it,it had about 200,000 miles and it still had everything original on it! And I mean everything:spark plugs,spark plug wires,starter,oxygen sensor,distributor cap& rotor,fuel pump,I couldn't believe it! So I bought it right then,because any car that can haul like this one,with all those miles and OEM parts about fifteen years old, amazed me. Now it has 225,000 miles and shows no signs of stopping or weakening. The only parts that have gone out on this car has been: struts,ball joints,and starter. I think I can live with that!

Back to the "engine" question: Research the legendary "SR20DE" Nissan engine. Those are "overbuilt" from the factory to accommodate the turbocharger in certain car models (i.e. SR20DET). That mean the internals of the naturally-aspirated versions are "tougher than they need to be", particularly the bottom-end. Take care of it well and it will last for a very long time. Abuse it, and you will pay with very expensive repairs, especially now that the SR-engines are considered "legacy" types and parts will naturally be in shorter supply.