As many wise men said, you can't target fat loss to a certain part of your body. If you want to lose belly fat, you have to lose overall fat. For that, you have to dedicate yourself to a proper workout program, a healthy diet on a daily basis, and mental determination so that you don't drift off from your ultimate goal. You can even use aloe vera for belly fat loss as it has a lot of herbal properties that can help in turning your body into a fat-burning machine from the inside. Try to adapt a healthy lifestyle and you can kiss your belly fat goodbye forever.
he answer is increasing the rate at which you burn calories all through the day when you are not working out. That is , increase your BASAL METABOLIS RATE(BMR). The only way to do that is to concentrate on increasing the matabolic active tissue,"MUSCLE" in the body. The more muscle you carry the faster your matabolism and hence lesser the fat. Also choose exercise forms such as weight training which help
in making a person burn calories at a faster rate even after the the workout. This is what we called AFTERBURN. Weight training damages muscle at a microscopic level and forces the body to initiate repair work after the workout. The repair work requires the lot of calories and goes on through the day. Hence there is an increased requirement for calories and thus less fat. Also you must combine this effort with an emphasid on protein and a restriction on sugar and Easiest way lose lower stomach fat ?
I have a way for you to Lse body aft, not just stomach fat.
if you want to know the method that i know hundreds of peoples are using.
Forget the pry bar, the socket, or whatever other tool you might have been told to use. Position the belt on every pulley except for the alternator belt. Pull the belt toward the front of the van (this pulls the tension pulley) and wrap it around the pulley on the alternator. It takes about 5 seconds and does not require a tool at all.Answer:Notes:
There are a few ways to move / pry the arm inwards, thus releasing the tension on the belt for removing/installing: grab on the pulley bolt (15mm?) with a wrench, or some later models have an opening for a 3/8th socket wrench to attach to directly without a socket.
"Screaming"/whining that goes up and down with engine speed is a key symptom of a bearing wearing out - one of which of course is the tensioner pulley bearing.
The serpentine belt tensioner / idler pulley is preset at the factory. If it is worn out, it will need to be replaced.
This is a very simple task. All you need is a pry-bar about 24" long that could reach as far as the idler (towards the passenger wall within the engine compartment). The idler is the one that maintains the tension for the serpentine belt during operation.
Next is to insert it on the back of the idler (note that there is a slot for it to go and lift down towards you. Your serpentine belt would become loose then your can remove the belt.
Note: Please remember how the belt was wound from component to component as this is very important.
Another option is to find a socket wrench mounted to a driver and same principle-apply a clockwise motion and the idler will be loosened.
Very important: DO NOT DO THIS WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING, K...
The serpentine belt tensioner is spring loaded. It is the pulley located all the way back toward the firewall. Put a 15mm wrench on the bolt head in the middle of the pulley and leverage the tensioner to slack the belt and remove it.Answer
if you're under the hood, look at all the pulleys. the big one in the back, that is the one you will need to get to. I am not well with the proper terms or even tools, however, when you go to tighten it, it will turn towards the front of the car. at that time, you can get the belt off. Remember the diagram of how it goes on, cause if you don't, none of your things will work. oh, buy a book also. it is faster than this forum.Answer
You need to obtain a flat serpentine changing wrench. They come in a variety of qualities, but a cheapie will do ~10$. You hook that on the end of the sprung idler pulley and rotate against the spring pressure. the belt will loosen, pop it off, and put the new one on. The whole process will take under 10 minutes once the old belt is off. I considered cutting it off, but didn't need to with the wrench. Without the flat wrench, you will fight this for too long and likely not succeed.Answer
I couldn't find a flat serpentine wrench (breaker bar) - the local stores used to carry them. What works just as well is a 15 mm box end wrench (the circular type that encloses a bolt), with a set of vise grip pliers for torque. The wrench is offset just enough to be able to place on the 15 mm bolt of the automatic belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the wrench clockwise (toward the front of the car) to release the pressure on the belt.Answer
A small rope on the end of the 15MM wrench will hold the tensioner or a helper can pull on the rope.Answer
I labored with this one for quite a while, searched the internet, and then someone at work told me the secret.
To remove the tension, take a box-end wrench and place it on the pulley bolt. Then use the wrench as a lever (like you are tightening the bolt) and pull toward you. The arm of the tensioner will come toward you (it rotates around the bolt which holds the tensioner on the engine). Remove the belt. If you want to remove the tensioner and/or pulley, loosen the pulley bolt while it is still on the engine (it is easier this way than when the tensioner is off the engine), then loosen and remove the tensioner bolt. Now you can replace the tensioner. You can also just replace the pulley if that is the problem and save about $25.Answer
It took me four hours to replace the belt on my Windstar...
First, take several pictures of the left side of the engine, getting as much of the belt as possible. You'd be surprised how quickly you can forget how the belt is wound around the pulleys and alternator. I'm glad I did, because the guys at the parts house gave me the wrong pattern. I wasted an hour because of their mistake!!!!!
The belt runs around a tensioner arm located near the firewall toward the bottom of the engine (by the pass. side front tire). I'm not an auto mechanic, so I don't know the technical term. This is spring loaded and puts tension on the belt. Spray this arm with a boatload of WD 40 'cause you'll need it to move somewhat freely.
Take the old belt off and put the new belt on, starting at the flywheel and around the tensioner and all the other pulleys except the alternator which is at the top of the engine. Squeeze the belt at the tensioner, pull the belt towards you, creating some slack in the belt and try to wrap the belt around the alternator.
This is the best I could explain it. It's not that easy. You may be better off getting a new tensioner because the old one might be frozen up too bad.
Purchase a serpentine belt wrench. They are a long flat looking wrench from a local auto store. There is a belt tensioner in the rear of the engine. Place the wrench on the tensioner pulley, and pull the wrench toward the front of the engine. This will loosen the belt. Install the belt around the crankshaft, and all other pulleys, excluding the alternator pulley. Hold the last bit of the belt in your hand, and then pull the tensioner toward the front of the engine again, and slip the belt onto the alternator pulley.Answer
And for a 2002 Windstar (3.8L).
The tensioner pulley was at the back near the bottom. (If you look at a serpentine diagram, it would be at the bottom left.)
To release the tension, you have to get a 13mm wrench around the bolt in the center of the pulley and turn clockwise. Space is very tight (no room for a socket), so I recommend using a serpentine tool with attachable wrench heads. AutoZone loans them out for free (deposit required).Answer
Actually, the info from the linked question was not correct for a 2002 Windstar (3.8L).
The tensioner pulley was at the back near the bottom. (If you look at a serpentine diagram, it would be at the bottom left.)
To release the tension, you have to get a 13mm wrench around the bolt in the center of the pulley and turn clockwise. Space is very tight (no room for a socket), so I recommend using a serpentine tool with attachable wrench heads. AutoZone loans them out for free (deposit required).Removing serpentine belt on Windstar
You will need a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar. Look on top front of radiator you will see a winding diagram for replacing the belt also. The tension release pulley, located just below and in front of alternator, has a 1/2 slot in the center of pulley. Insert the 1/2 inch breaker bar in middle of tension pulley and pull up, tension will be released.
Reverse procedure to reinstall.- DarrellAnswer
Install the drive belt over all the pulleys, other than the drive belt tensioner.
Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise, using a 15mm socket or wrench, then install the belt over the drive belt tensioner pulley.
Make sure that all of the V-grooves make proper contact with the pulleys.Answer
Well it's probably the same as the 1999 Windstar, so if it is: you need a 13mm key. It's better to have 2 people for this job: one underneath the vehicle with the key and one under the hood to remove the belt.
If I remember correctly you torque frontward and the belt will release . Hope it can help!
By the way, my van does not have the serpentine belt diagram sticker, so be sure to take a look if you have one, and if not, take a paper and mark the location of the belt through the different pulleys before removing the old one.
See "Related Questions" below for links to online sources of belt routing diagrams.Answer
I have successfully changed my serpentine belt on my '96 Windstar. After fighting the tensioner nut my neighbor grabbed a pry bar and put it in the notch on the other side of the nut and belt it very easily moved the pulley down and relieved the tension and slipped the belt off. Leaving the bar in place and letting it pull backwards he rested the pry bar against the car while we put on a new belt. Pulling forward again and slipping the belt back over the alternator for the final touch. Forget the wrenches this was so simple I should sell the answer.Answer
First, buy the correct belt, then look on the fan shroud which should give the route that the new belt should take. I'm my 95, it didn't, but the only thing I was doing was replacing the alternator, so I still knew how the belt went. Then release the belt tensioner nut, which is 18mm and hard to reach. Release this nut a few turns, then the tensioner will slide toward the side of the car, and the belt should fit on. To re-tension the belt I am considering buying a tensioner tool, which is a long handled lever for $35.00. If you need a diagram, email me.Answer
First of all, you will need to locate the drive belt tensioner and the drive belt tensioner pulley. There should be a belt routing map under the hood.
If you have a 6 cyl 3.0L engine: the drive belt tensioner is located between the crankshaft pulley and the water pump pulley and the drive belt tensioner pulley is located between the alternator (or generator) and power steering pump.
If you have a 6 cyl 3.8L engine, the drive belt tensioner is located at the very back of the engine (if you follow the belt back from the alternator, the first pulley you come to will be the drive best tensioner) and it's very inconvenient to get to. The drive belt tensioner pulley is located between the alternator and the power steering pump pulley.
Per Chilton's manual, use a 15mm wrench on the bolt of the drive belt tensioner and rotate the tensioner clockwise to release the tension. Remove the belt from the drive belt tension pulley. When installing the new belt, make sure that the drive belt is routed correctly and note the position of the indicator mark on the tensioner.
Note: A standard belt tensioner tool will not get the job done. Ford may have a special tensioner tool for the Ford Windstar, but I haven't found one. I used a non-angled 15mm 6pt box end wrench (longest one I could find) and used a section of galvanized pipe to slip over the wrench for leverage and was able to release the tension to change the belt.Answer
Just replaced alternator on my 2002 Windstar. Found easiest way to loosen belt tension was by jacking up(and installing stands) front of van and having skinny son slide under. Could loosen tensioner for removal and re-installation with a **13mm**combination wrench and some grunting. Also, prior to loosening belt, I taped belt to all pulleys wherever I could reach them. That way the belt stayed in place.Answer
My brother has a 1998 ford Windstar 6 cyl 3.8 engine. The drive belt tensioner broke. so He got a new replacement. He tried to put the serpentine belt ALL BY HIMSELF with no avail. just before he gave up. he call me. here is what we did: He installed the new drive belt tensioner using a 18 mm wrench without fully tighten the bolt. We routed the belt correctly (following the belt routing map under the hood). only leaving off the alternator pulley. now the only thing left was to put the alternator pulley. this was accomplished by us working simultaneously. while I grabbed the belt close to the tensioner and pulled it with all my strength toward the alternator to relief the tension ; my brother using both hands put the belt around the alternator pulley taking advantage of the loose belt. Once the belt was in place; He tightened the 18mm bolt fully. Mission accomplished.
**New Edit: Added to above - on a 1999 Windstar with 3.8L
I just did a similar method, but I just wrapped a small rag around the old belt and pulled towards me (front of van) until it was loose enough to pull the belt off the alternator. The I removed the belt from the rest which takes a little bit of twisting and using a flashlight to see where it may be hung up on. Then I put in the new belt around all pullies except the alternator at which time I had my wife come over and carefully place the belt while I pulled on it again.
*This ended up being about 20 minutes total time.
For my '98 Windstar 3.8 liter, the first issue is that the picture in the service manual pointed out the idler pulley as the Belt Tensioner; the BT is actually nearer the firewall. I loosened the bolt (18mm) that secures the BT to the engine and the BT pulley bolt(15mm) but was still unable to move the BT in any way.
I then put an ~8" loop of 1" webbing around the BT's arm, slid a crowbar thru it and using the top of the strut housing as a fulcrum, lifted the crowbar. The BT shifted and I was able to reach down with one hand and remove the belt from off the idler pulley.
First, note that there are significant differences between the 2002/3 and previous model years when it comes to the location of the belt tensioner and belt routing.
For 2002 3.8 engines, the belt tensioner is below the power steering pump, below the passenger compartment air intake duct. Unfortunately, this makes it almost impossible to access from above the vehicle. If you can raise the vehicle, you may be able to access the tensioner from below (see final note at bottom of this post).
Here's a procedure I've used:
1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2) Draw a diagram of the belt routing--I believe there are as many as 5 belt routings for various Windstar years and models.
3) With heavy gloves on, pull up and forward on the belt from the top of the engine (grasp the belt between the alternator and the power steering pump).
4) With the slack produced from #3, slip the belt off the small alternator pulley, taking care to not pinch your fingers while you're pulling on the belt.
5) Work the old belt off all pulleys and discard.
6) Route the new belt according to your diagram from #2 so that it is properly aligned on all pulleys, and riding in the grooved pulleys EXCEPT the alternator.
7) Now, again pull hard on the belt to compress the tensioner, and slip the belt over the alternator pulley. Again, be careful to not pinch you fingers.
8) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
9) Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe the belt travel. Make sure the belt is running fully engaged on all pulleys. If something amiss, you may have to repeat the proceAnswer
NOTE: The "official" way to release the belt tension is to rotate the tensioner about 110 degrees counter clockwise, and press a flexible metal leaf on its side into a holding slot. Doing this does away with the need to pull hard on the belt. On at least some pre-2002 Windstar models, this was rather easily done with a long screwdriver or pry bar because the tensioner and the front idler pulley were one unit. But on the 2002, Ford decided they should be 2, and moved the tension into an impossible-to-access from above location. On the 2002, you can't even get a socket on the tensioner pulley bolt to rotate it that way, because there's less than 1 inch of clearance between the bolt head and the vehicle frame. You'll have to decide if it's worth getting under the vehicle to save some pulling effort.Answer
To replace a worn belt, locate the idler or generator pulley.
Loosen the hold-down fastener for the idler or generator pulley.
Pry the idler or generator pulley inward to release the belt tension and remove the belt.
Match the old belt up for size with the new replacement belt.
Observe the belt routing diagram in the engine compartment.
Install the new belt over each of the drive pulleys. Often the manufacturer recommends a sequence for feeding the belt around the pulleys.
Pry out the idler or generator pulley to put tension on the belt.
Pry out the idler or generator pulley to put tension on the belt. Install the belt squarely in the grooves of each pulley.
Before adjusting belt tension, check for proper pulley alignment. This is especially critical with serpentine belts. Measure the belt deflection in its longest span. If a belt tension gauge is available, use it and compare the tension to specifications.
If a belt is too tight, wear to bearings for the water pump, alternator, and engine crankshaft can result.
Some late-model Chrysler engines require a torque reading to be taken when tension is applied to the generator drive belt. This is especially important on the longer, multiribbed V-belts.
Pry the idler or generator pulley to adjust the belt to specifications.
Tighten the idler or generator pulley fastener.
Start the engine and check the belt for proper operation.Answer
I just replaced the drive belt on my wife's 1998 windstar, Sunday evening(2/19/06), If you looking on the hood after it is raised you will find a diagrahm that shows how it goes on the pulleys. looking towqards the firewall, you will see a pulley on the top of the other pulleys. there is a place that you can put the end of a crowbar into. being careful to make sure that you have a firm hold with the crowbar, pull the crowbar back towards yourself. this will relieve tension on the automatic belt tensioner. make sure that you have the belt on all pulleys and finally, push the belt onto the idler pulley, it will be the small one that is smoothAnswer
Use a pair of medium sized slip joint pliers, upside-down and tilted slightly to the left, to pull back on the tensioner. You will get plenty of slack and keep all of your fingers.Answer
An answer is found in the linked question
I have a 2002 Windstar, and in it there is a belt tensioner pully (which swings on an eccentric radius) that tightens the belts around the other pulleys on the front of the engine (not front of van due to transverse mount). This is accessed by elevating the vehicle passenger side near the front axle (like you would if removing the front right tire) and above the front axle near the top of the fender wall is this pulley. If looking at the engine under the hood, it would be near the fire wall down by the fender. Once located then use a 13mm wrench (box end preferably) to swing the tensioner pulley toward the front of the van. This will loosen the belt where it can be pulled off the pulley. Make sure you use place the wrench where adequate swing can be achieved. follow the pattern of the existing belt for the replacement of the new one. If the belt has come off, simply find a diagram, or go by the pulley grooves or flat to understand which side the belt goes. Mine was broken, so I had to do that. It was easier for me to start from the top under the hood but leave the alternator pulley as the last one to wrap over (I did this with help, as I had the pulley swung, someone else wrapped the belt over the alternator pully).
I hope this help...Be blessed in Christ ><>
You need to use a socket wrench.
There's a square hole behind the tensioner (You need to get under the car) and get the socket wrench and fit the head into the square hole.
You will also need some hollow steel tubing to place over the wrench handle for use as a breaker. You will need this for leverage to get enough clearance to fit the new belt on.Answerpully is at the back of the engine,to left of the coil pack,a 15mm wrench fits the bolt,pull it toward you
2000 Ford Windstar - You'll need to put the car on jack stands or secure ramps. Find the tensioner by pointing a flashlight into the engine compartment just to the rear of the alternator pulley. Then slide unde the car next to the passenger side wheel. The bolt on the tensioner is 12mm. You'll need to use a box or open end wrench. Turn the wrench counterclockwise to take the tension off.
To replace a worn belt, locate the idler or generator pulley. Loosen the hold-down fastener for the idler or generator pulley. Pry the idler or generator pulley inward to release the belt tension and remove the belt. Match the old belt up for size with the new replacement belt. Observe the belt routing diagram in the engine compartment. Install the new belt over each of the drive pulleys. Often the manufacturer recommends a sequence for feeding the belt around the pulleys. Pry out the idler or generator pulley to put tension on the belt. Pry out the idler or generator pulley to put tension on the belt. Install the belt squarely in the grooves of each pulley. Before adjusting belt tension, check for proper pulley alignment. This is especially critical with serpentine belts. Measure the belt deflection in its longest span. If a belt tension gauge is available, use it and compare the tension to specifications. If a belt is too tight, wear to bearings for the water pump, alternator, and engine crankshaft can result. Some late-model Chrysler engines require a torque reading to be taken when tension is applied to the generator drive belt. This is especially important on the longer, multiribbed V-belts. Pry the idler or generator pulley to adjust the belt to specifications. Tighten the idler or generator pulley fastener. Start the engine and check the belt for proper operation.
Well it's probably the same as the 1999 Windstar, so if it is: you need a 13mm key. It's better to have 2 people for this job: one underneath the vehicle with the key and one under the hood to remove the belt. If I remember correctly you torque frontward and the belt will release . Hope it can help! By the way, my van does not have the serpentine belt diagram sticker, so be sure to take a look if you have one, and if not, take a paper and mark the location of the belt through the different pullies beforeremoving the old one.
# Make sure headlamp is off and open hood.
# Facing the driver's side headlamp, and looking at the headlamp itself, at clock positions 8, 11 and 1 are the headlight housing screws. They all look the same. Using a 10mm socket wrench, remove these 3 screws and set them aside.
# Just to the right of the "11 o'clock" housing screw is a clinch bolt (same hexagonal 10mm sized top as the housing screws). This just needs a few turns to loosen it. As soon as you loosen that up the whole assembly comes right out.
# Gently pull the whole headlight forward. Now you can get at the bulb.
# Disconnect the electrical connector from the bulb. Now the headlamp is free to work with.
# Remove the bulb from the lamp assembly by pulling straight back.
Do not twist, as there are alignment slots built into the lamp assembly socket. It may take some effort to remove the lamp because it has a rubber o-ring type seal - try a bit of wiggling side-to-side while pulling
# Insert new bulb into headlight assembly - don't touch the glass - use gloves, paper towel, or similar
Make sure that the flat surface of the bulb socket is facing upward, and is firmly seated
# Re-attach retainer ring by rotating clockwise
# Reconnect the electrical harness
# Place headlamp back into position. Line up screw holes. Tighten the clinch bolt. Replace housing screws and tighten.
Passenger side headlamp is mirror image of driver's side. Screws at 11, 1 and 4 o'clock positions. Bolt should be to the left of the "1 o'clock" housing screw.
* Do not touch the glass of the new halogen bulb - the oils in the skin will shorten the life-span of the new bulb, or possibly cause the bulb to explode when first turned on
If the bulb is accidentally touched, it should be cleaned with rubbing alcohol before being used
* FRONT Turn-signal - 3457 AK (amber) * Headlamp - 9007 QL (9007LL optional) * Tail lamp/brake/turn lamp 3157 * Tail lamp/brake lamp (wagon) 3157 * Rear turn lamp (wagon) 3456K * Backup lamp 921 * Backup lamp (wagon) 3156 * License plate lamp (2) 168 * High-mount brake lamp (2) 912 * Rear side marker lamp (wagon) (2) 168 The above information extracted from the Owners Manuals (see below) == == == ==
1. Make sure headlamp is off and open hood. 2. Taurus model years 1990-1999: you must remove the whole headlamp to replace the bulb. Not a horrible task. Just annoying. 3. Facing the driver's side headlamp, and looking at the headlamp itself, at clock positions 8, 11 and 1 are the headlight housing screws. They all look the same. Using a 10mm socket wrench, remove these 3 screws and set them aside. 4. Just to the right of the "11 o'clock" housing screw is a bolt (same hexagonal 10mm sized top as the housing screws). This just needs a few turns to loosen it. 5. Gently pull the whole headlight forward. Now you can get at the bulb. 6. Disconnect the electrical connector from the bulb. Now the headlamp is free to work with. Remove the bulb, replace with a new bulb, make sure the bulb housing cylinder is in place and reconnect the electical. 7. Place headlamp back into position. Line up screw holes. Tighten the bolt. Replace housing screws and tighten. 8. Passenger side headlamp is mirror image of driver's side. Screws at 11, 1 and 4 o'clock positions. Bolt should be to the left of the "1 o'clock" housing screw.
I know what you mean, once a college student and now as an entrepreneur I am very familiar with tight budgets. Here is what I have incorporated into my diet that didn’t break the bank and was nutritious and pro muscle:
Focus your shopping on high quality proteins, fats, and carbohydrates that are on sale; not those prepared meals.
Good cheap sources of protein in order of price and nutrition are foods like Eggs, Sardines, Greek Yogurt (Sugar Free), Pork, Chicken breasts, and Beef.
Good sources of fats in order of price are foods like real butter, olive oil (uncooked is best), coconut oil (uncooked), avocados, and almonds.
Good sources of carbohydrates in order of price and nutrition are foods like potatoes (all types), various beans, and quinoa. You can also include 100% whole grain macaroni, and rice for really cheap foods but don’t eat too much of these two.
All of your meals should be a combination of these three macro ingredients.
Mix in a good amount of fruits and vegetables (vitamins and minerals) and you’ll have a great balanced diet that will be more conducive for muscle development.
Another aspect that helps with cost saving, and something that I’ve recently adopted is intermittent fasting So, now that I’m eating pretty much eating one meal per day here’s my meal:
1 Dozen Eggs, $1.30
4 medium Potatoes: $1.00
Some sort of vegetable: about $0.30
So each meal comes to about $2.60
This meal is one of the highest T meals that money can buy!
Now that you know the basics you can get creative and learn how to shop around for the best deals!
Now that you have a good foundation for a diet plan, add in a great workout routine and you’ll be in great shape…literally!
# hey, do you want more information, text me
This is how you say i love you in tamang language, Nai eera maya lala.
1. Thoroughly spray the door switches (on each door) with:
2. Open and close each door several times to work the lube into the mechanism
This is usually sufficient to clean the electrical & plunger mechanism inside the door switch.
If this doesn't work, you could remove the door panel and do the spray treatment from the inside also.
If this doesn't work, the switch may have to come out for repair (see below), or replacement.Curling Plastic SurgeryOn my '98 Windstar, the door latch hooks (the part on the door not on the door frame) were coated in plastic. As they got older, the plastic wore through and then started to curl. The curls caused the hook to stick just enough to set off the door chimes and lights.
Lubing the latches sometimes helps, but when the curls are big enough you can use a whole can of WD-40 and it isn't going to help.
Get out some needle nose pliers and a sharp utility knife. Cut and peel away the curls. You might need a magnifying glass to see them.
This has worked on both doors (driver's side usually goes first). My In-Law Taurus Station Wagon had the exact same thing happen. Looks like Ford used the same bad latch hook design.Long-term FixMany people say that if you spray the latches with WD40 or PB blaster it will *fix* it. Well it is more like a band aid not a repair. It WILL happen again.
Now I will explain the way to fix these sending units. I will be using the rear lift gate as my example.
Now if you want to never have the door bother you again... throw these in the trash and put everything back together and you're done.
HOWEVER if you want to do it right.. take the sending unit and either replace it with a new one for each latch or use some quality carb or parts cleaner to clean the heck out of them.
You will see a small metal sliding switch, when this switch gets stuck IN it causes the door chime and lights to stay on. So clean it will it moves easily on its own. A few drops or lubricant will help AFTER it is cleaned.
After you have them moving freely just put everything back together. I myself also use carb or parts cleaner on the complete latch as well till its totally clean of all old grease then I spray on some new white lithium grease before putting everything back together.
Spraying the latch with WD40 will sometimes work, however in the long run it will only last a while. The issue is the sending units are sludged up and the more wd40 and such you spray on the more dust and stuff it will collect... making it sludgy and sticky again.AnswerInstead of WD40 or other alike product that will cause more dirt to be attracted and make the switch more sticky and harder to move, I suggest to use an ELECTRICAL DRY CONTACT CLEANER, you can buy this product at any auto parts store. I did it and it works, it resolved my CHIME crying all the time. More Answer Thoughts
I have this problem every 6 months or so...here is another tip: On the rear door....open it, but lift it only about 1 foot or so. I say this, because that is the angle that the lube seems to need to hit the switch just right....then use the WD 40 or similar penetrating lube and spray the heck out of the latches.....get the red tube into the tiny crevices and gaps around the latches on all doors and into the hidden switches that are connected to them. Do this on each side of the rear liftgate door as well as front and sliding door.
I think I now know how to solve this problem. The rear door or 'back lift gate' as it has been called, has two latching mechanisms, one on each side of the door. These are positioned from the inside of the door itself. At the very bottom of this latch is a small spring loaded micro switch that senses if the latch is open or closed. The switch gets dirty and then won't allow the pin to travel to the fully protruding position which should indicate the door is closed.
I found this out by going to a vehicle junk yard and removing the latches from the back door of a scrap vehicle. I was able to disassemble the switches but the latches were on my work bench when I did it. I'm not sure how hard it will be to remove the switch while the latch is in place because I haven't actually replaced the non-working ones in my van yet. You need a screwdriver to pry up a tab which keeps the switch from rotating 90 degrees. Once the switch is rotated, it drops out of the latch.
clean the little square plates at the top of the rear hatch with rubbing alcohol
my 98 has small black plastic box sensors on side and rear door that senses when door is open they are about 1 inch square i sprayed these lightly with wd 40 and moved them to and fro with my fingers to free em up no more unlocking or dinging or lights
The sensors for the rear hatch on the 2003 Windstar are on the latching mechanisms inside the hatch. I sprayed mine with WD-40 today and it worked like a charm. I accessed them by removing the plastic panel from inside the hatch.
In hind-sight, I think that spraying the mechanism from the exterior would have been adequate.AnswerThis always happens to our Windstar when it rains a lot...
So, I took a blow-dryer (hairdryer) and pointed it in the latch holes of the rear hatch door (right inside the door) and just in case, at the lower spring latch.
After a few minutes, the light went out--without shutting the latch!
It went back on briefly when I shut it-- then went off and stayed off.
Don't know if this is a permanent fix--but it did work.Answer- Sliding Sidedoors ContactsClean the contacts of on the slider door:
This is just a temporary fix, and needs to be done about every 4 weeks.
When moving the sensor plate on the door jam it may be necessary to take a jig saw and cut the square hole a little wider in order for the plate to fit back on the door jam properly. Use sheet metal screws to reattach the sensor plate.AnswerThere is a problem with corrosion in the wires that run to the fuse box take it to a ford dealer it will be fixed within an hour. I had the same problem. AnswerI had the same problem on my 95 Windstar. I found that one of the switches in the rear hatch had stuck in the "open" position. I cleaned and worked for a month then failed again. I finally bypassed (jumpered them both). They are located inside the hatch close to the latches so you must remove the inner panel to access. Hope this helps. Redsand Answer- How to RemoveIt is located inside the door.
You have to remove the door panel to gain access to the door latch assembly and it is located on the lower side of the latch. You'll find two connectors one for the lock actuator and one lower for the door ajar switch.
Loosen the latch and twist the door latch out and you'll here it pop and come out.
reverse process to installAnswerI have a 96 Windstar with the same problem. Every night I had to disconnect my battery cable. A real pain in the butt! Along with the light not going off I also had that annoying bonging sound while I was driving! I sprayed WD 40 in all the door wells and after a minute everything quit! It seems to be a cold weather thing because that was when it started. But the panacea seems to be the WD40. AnswerI had this same problem in years past, I spoke with a Ford mechanic and he suggested rather than put it in the shop and pay to replace sensors etc. just spray the door sensors with WD40 and the problem will go away. I tried it and it worked immediately, and hasn't come back to haunt me.
I've had this same problem with my 2003 Winstar. The problem is the contacts on the sliding doors. The dealer cleaned the contacts and the problem was resolved for about a month. You have to keep cleaning these contacts regularly or what I did was turn off the dome lights. This problem can kill your battery so I always keep the dome lights off.
Had same problem i checked all doors and the sliding door was the cause fix it by crossing the black wires of the sensor no more chiming or light on
Usually this is a sticking or faulty door switch on the tailgate. It affects multiple years of the Windstar. Typically the only solution is to replace the switch. There is one switch attached to each side of the tailgate door.
Midukkan / Nalla payyan / Nalla Chekkan
If you suspect fraud, you may be asked to sign a statement under oath that you did not make the purchase(s) in question.For More InformationThe FTC (Federal Trade Commission) works for the consumer to prevent fraudulent, deceptive, and unfair business practices in the marketplace and to provide information to help consumers spot, stop, and avoid them. To file a complaint or to get free information on consumer issues, visit ftc.gov or call toll-free, 1-877-FTC-HELP (1-877-382-4357); TTY: 1-866-653-4261. The FTC enters consumer complaints into the Consumer Sentinel Network, a secure online database and investigative tool used by hundreds of civil and criminal law enforcement agencies in the U.S. and abroad. Internet Fraud
FBI - REPORT INTERNET FRAUD
Don't throw anything in the bin that has your name or address on it, protect your card pins at all times if you use your credit cards online make sure that you have the right protection on your PC and make sure you use secure websites. Don't give out personal information over the telephone.Reporting Credit Card FraudIf you lose your credit card or if you realize it's been lost or stolen, immediately call the issuer. Many companies have toll-free numbers and 24-hour service to deal with such emergencies. By law, once you report the loss or theft, you have no further responsibility for unauthorized charges. In any event, your maximum liability under federal law is $50 per card.
If you suspect credit card fraud, you may be asked to sign a statement under oath that you did not make the purchase(s) in question.
You will need to contact your credit card company - they will walk you through the procedure. They should immediately put a block on your file and report it to the exception files. They may ask you for an affidavit or a police statement. If you're concerned that they're giving you the run-around, you should read up on your rights as a consumer-
Good eating = gutes Essen
You don't . Go to the office and get the needed form.
Inductive load power is reactive, it is given by the formula:
in time domain (instant power);
in Laplace transform domain (RMS denotes root mean square amplitude).
VL is the voltage across the inductor L and IL is its current (current enters in the "+" voltage reference pin, by applying user convention in which absorbed power is positive).
Power is reactive since voltage and current are always in quadrature:
VL(s) = s L IL(s),
in Laplace domain (derived from the time-domain formula vL(t)= L diL(t)/dt).
A real-life inductor will also show an active power term, which arises from parasitic resistance non-ideality; it can be modeled as a resistance DCR in series with the inductor itself:
An inductive load such as an induction motor draws power from the supply with a power factor of less than 1.
Power = voltage x current x power factor.
This happens because the current reaches its peak in the ac cycle after the voltage, so that for a small part of the cycle power flows back into the supply from energy stored in the motor's internal magnetic field. The time-lag is measured in degrees and called the phase difference. 360 degrees denotes one complete cycle.
The power factor is the cosine of the phase difference, so that (for example) a resistive load has no phase difference so that the power factor is 1, while for a pure inductor the phase difference is 90 degrees and the power factor is zero.
If the rms voltage and current are expressed in complex-number form, also known as vectors or phasors, the real power is the real part of VI*, where the asterisk denotes the complex conjugate.
Another way to calculate the real power is to calculate the average value of the instantaneous power V x I. If the voltage is Vcos(wt) and the current is Icos(wt+phi) then those expressions can be multiplied together and trigonometry formulas used to show that the power factor is cos(phi) as stated.
Real power is measured from the average value of volts times amps with an instrument that contains a voltage coil and a current coil. The force produced is equal to the instantaneous power, and the instrument measures its average value muliplied by the time.
Take a cardboard cereal box. Put it around your penis and tape it to hold the shape. Live the inside with wax paper. Pur oil, lube, etc. inside. Oil up penis, put penis in tube, go back and forth.
If you have a locked layer with a light grey lock icon, then duplicate it and delete the locked one. If you wish, go into your settings so background and merged layers won't be locked by default.
If you locked a layer yourself, a dark grey lock icon will appear. Simply select that layer, and click on the lock tool, which has the same icon.
Edit: typically, the layer in question is the background layer. Double-click on it to change its name, and even using the default (Layer 0), the resulting layer will be unlocked.
Measuring employee inspiration is often a tough panorama as motivation is a qualitative, rather than quantitative, value. In other words, it cannot be effortlessly measured with numbers or statistics. Unless the business is using targets and sales incentives often tough to estimate the motivation of employee with the use of surveys and questionnaires. To measure the motivation of employees it is important to implement a performance measure for the business, conduct a survey of your employees and conduct a survey of customer satisfaction.
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Put them in coke or Pepsi and they should grow the size of a baseball
This is a pretty straight forward replacement - only 2 mounting bolts, a vacuum hose and one other pipe that'll come off with an adjustable wrench.
NOTE: this notice is from the Autozone.com site regarding the EGR valve:
* **Caution!!** Before replacing the EGR Valve, inspect the DPFE/EGR Valve Pressure Feedback Sensor and hoses for proper operation. It is common for a DPFE sensor to set a trouble code See "Related Links" below for the DPFE sensor section of Autozone's online repair guide. It is located at the back of the engine on the top between the engine block and the front windshield. It should be black or chrome colored and kind of looks like a disk, with a small vacuum hose coming out the top of it. Just replaced mine in my Taurus today. Amanda nothing tricky, just be sure to clean the gasket surfaces...also You should be able to find a shop manual at your local library with the right info...make copies as they are usually only in the REFERENCE section....good luck:) its located next to the air inlet boot this is the boot that comes from the air cleaner housing the valve should be round black and has a vacuum line going to it But, if you are replacing it because there is a code for it you need to make sure that the valve is cause of it most fords had a problem with a sensor called a DPFE sensor which stands for differential pressure feedback exhaust sensor the problem is they would get moisture from the exhaust causing them to short out on most 99 models the egr valve is connected to the intake manifold.If you look at the top of the engine,while in front of the vehicle with the hood up,look just to the right at the right side of the valve cover tou will see a round shaped two inch thick just underneath clean air intake plenum tube also knownasthe air intake plenumtube hooks to the fender in most vans however this can be a tricky part to replace I sugest you get a chilton or haynes manual to help you out. Just look it up in the index or glossary and read the passage severaltimes before starting the work also pay close atention to how it comes of and apart because installation of the new valve will be reverse the procedure GOOD LUCK and GOD SPEED ---- It is attached to the throttle body. The throttle body is attached to the intake. Look for the large aluminum piece that will say ford, this is the intake. Look for the large tube going in to it, probably from the left if you are facing the windshield. where the large tube goes into the intake, it will first go into another piece of metal with wires etc going into it, this is the throttle body, the egr is on the throttle body. ---- I can answer my own question!! With help from a mechanic friend of mine...back ,top, center of engine, you will find the pod...Good luck to anyone trying to reach it, looks unreachable to me, barely viewable... ---- EGR Valve Inspect | Test | Replace There are many variations from one vehicle application to the next in emission control systems and calibration. Therefore, it is extremely important that you get the correct replacement exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve for the application. Two EGR valves may look identical, but be calibrated differently in terms of flow and the amount of vacuum and/or back-pressure it takes to open the valve. Therefore, you may have to refer to the vehicle's VIN number as well as year, make, model and engine size when ordering a replacement EGR valve. If may also be necessary to refer to the OEM part number on the old EGR valve (if possible) when ordering a replacement. If so, don't throw the old EGR valve away until you have installed the new one and made sure it's working correctly. Many aftermarket EGR valves are "consolidated," so fewer part numbers are necessary to cover a wider range of vehicle applications. Some of these valves use interchangeable restricters to alter their flow characteristics. Follow the suppliers instructions as to which restricter to use for the correct calibration. ---- This part cannot be cleaned....you can check it for replacement by allowing the engine to warm up and you should be able to move the diaphragm in with your finger (from behind)the egr...the factory default is sealed in the front
See "Related Questions" below for a similar discussion over in Taurus group - it all applies quite well to the Windstar ---- Real easy to spot-- Look to the LH side of the engine-- towards front-- It's a little black plastic box 1 inch by 1 1/2 inches square, 2 hoses connect to the bottom of it, and an electrical connector off tot the side. To disconnect the connector you have to squeeze a tab first before pulling, remember!
your check engine light will come and give a code for emmission can't remember the code. Put I had the same problem on my 2001 Ford Ranger.
If you are referring to 汉语拼音 han(4) yu(3) pin(4) yin(1) on Windows XP, the default Windows XP installation should have language keyboard included. Go to Control Panel --> Regional and Language Options --> Select Keyboards and Languages --> Change or add keyboard. Use the contextual help there for assistance.
HOW TO LOSE WEIGHT FAST
Perhaps a better query might be ' how to lose weight fast in a healthy way' (and stop the weight from returning).
First, there are some overall important points to be made. Second, this is followed by the lists, plans and programs to show you the way forward step-by-step.
Cut out refined processed carbohydrates (apart from an occasional treat). Over-consumption of refined processed carbohydrates is a major cause of weight gain and unwanted body fat. Over-consumption of these foods is also a major cause of heart disease, hypertension, insulin resistance, obesity, borderline and type 2 diabetes, and many other diet related diseases and conditions. If you are unsure what refined processed carbohydrates are, you can view a free list at the bottom of this answer.
Get your carbohydrates from natural sources such as low carbohydrate fresh leafy green vegetables, and leafy green salads, plus fresh low carbohydrate fruits such as berries.
Replace those refined processed carbohydrates with more of the specific fat burning proteins and make good use of the thermic effect of those foods. Drinking plenty of fresh water will help you body to process these foods. If you are unsure what these foods are, you can view a free list at the bottom of this answer, and learn more about the thermic effect of these foods.
For long-term weight loss, eat four or five small meals per day. You will not be eating more food; you will just be spreading it throughout the day. This will help to avoid food cravings. In addition, you might wish to try rotating your foods because your body can get used to a certain food routine (calorie shifting). Do not have treats unless you know that you will work off the calories consumed.
An excellent book (covering all the above in detail) that takes you by the hand and explains how to lose weight fast in a simple step-by-step way is the Fat Blast by Anna Wright and Dennis E. Bradford, Ph.D. (Paperback or Kindle, which you can borrow or buy from Amazon.) It also shows you how many carbohydrates to eat daily and explains why you won't be hungry when you are eating specific fats and specific fat burning proteins from natural sources.
In addition, if you are able bodied, and not too overweight to exercise comfortably, engage in regular cardiovascular (cardio) exercise. Any exercise, sport or activity that increases your heart and respiration rate for a specific period is cardiovascular (cardio) exercise. There are different degrees from mild to intense. There's an inverse proportion between intensity and duration. Intense exercise must be brief! For example, you can sprint 100 meters, but you cannot sprint 5000 meters. Intense cardio exercises include running, interval training, and graded exercise protocol. Brisk walking is an example of mild cardio exercise.
If you are not able bodied, or too overweight to exercise comfortably, you can still achieve excellent results by following the dietary changes explained earlier on this page, and via the page links listed at the bottom of this answer.
At the bottom of this answer, there are some free exercise plans for mild cardio, and intense cardio.
Here are a few examples of cardio exercise:
There are many ways to do this. If the background of the image you want to extract is roughly all one color, use the Fuzzy Select tool and put the threshold at just high enough to select everything but the image you want to extract. Then delete that selection. If the background is something different, then you can erase around the image you want to extract, using a smaller and smaller brush for the more detailed parts. This is the most time-consuming and most accurate way to extract the image, I suggest this method if you're in no hurry to get it done. :)
You will need:
500g sweet tamarind (regular tamarind is better if like more sour flavour)
6 cups water or a little bit more
1Â½ cup golden caster sugar
Peel tamarind, place in a pot over low/medium fire, add water and sugar and cook for about an hour and half. Add a little bit more water if needed. Optionally press through the strainer to remove seeds, then place in the jars and close immediately. You do not have to remove the seeds but some do.
This will make about 2-3 medium jars of jam.
For model years 1999-2003, and most likely the entire Freestar / Monterey line too: The entire headlamp actually sits inside of a mounting bracket - this means it is very easy to fully release, and remove the headlamp to make bulb replacement much less *painful*! There are 2 headlight retainer clips to find - they are: 1) black, upside-down L-shaped metal clips about 1/2 inch wide 2) located just behind the top edge of the headlamp glass, inside the engine compartment. Release and pull the clips upward. The headlamp assembly will now pull forward providing great access to the electrical connector and bulb retainer ring. Picking up the *removal* instructions from the manual: * 3. Pull headlamp assembly forward disengaging the lamp from the rear retainer to expose the back of the bulb.
* 4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the bulb by pulling rearward.
* 5. Remove the bulb retaining ring by rotating it counterclockwise (when viewed from the rear) to free it from the bulb socket, and slide the ring off the plastic base. Keep the ring to retain the new bulb.
* 6. Without turning, remove the old bulb from its socket by gently pulling it straight back out of the lamp assembly. (You may have to wiggle it side-to-side a little while pulling rearward.) Installing the new bulb: NOTE: DO NOT TOUCH THE GLASS OF THE NEW BULB! The oil from your hand could cause the bulb to break the next time the headlamps are operated. # With the flat side of the new bulb's plastic base facing upward, insert the glass end of the bulb into the lamp assembly. Turn (rotate) the bulb left or right to align the grooves in the plastic base with the tabs in the lamp assembly. When the grooves are aligned, push the bulb into the lamp assembly until the plastic base contacts the rear of the lamp assembly.
# Install the bulb retain ring over the plastic base until contacts the rear of the socket by rotating clockwise until you feel a "stop."
# Connect the electrical connector into the rear of the plastic base unti it snaps, locking it into position.
# Install the headlamp on the vehicle by aligning the lamp with the rear retainer, push rearward and secure with two retainer pins.
# Turn the headlamps on and make sure they work properly. If the headlamp was correctly aligned before you changed the bulb, you should NOT need to align it again. With the cable unplugged, look at the back of the bulb assembly. You will see a small ring with three raised "ears". Rotate this counterclockwise about 120 degrees, and the 3 small square tabs under the ring can slip through the ring itself. Remove the ring. The bulb assembly is now exposed. Pull it straight back (away from you) to remove it. It has a rubber ring on the new bulb to seal the entire assembly from water. Do NOT remove the large rubber ring that goes around the retainer ring that you removed in the previous step. With the old bulb assembly removed, open the package for the new bulb. CAUTION: Do NOT touch the bulb itself. Fingertip oil, even very slight, can cause the bulb to fail very quickly. Holding the new bulb by the base, you will see 3 small detents (two of them rather close together, and the other on the opposite side of the base). Line these up with the corresponding marks on the headlight bezel assembly, and then push the bulb assembly gently into place. Once inserted, take the ring from the step above, slide it over the back of the bulb assembly and ensuring that the 3 square black tabs go through the square holes in the ring. Then, twist the ring clockwise about 120 degrees, using the "ears", until the ring is fully engaged. Check that you the square tabs are on the outside of the ring (it's easy to miss one, so that only two of the tabs are engaged - this can result in the bulb being loose). Just changed one on mine. Its easy. Under the hood there is a locking ring of sorts holding the lamp in place. Just grab two of the three knobs on this ring and give it a quarter turn. The locking ring pops off and the lamp assembly can be removed. Lift the plastic tab on the lamp holder and pull off the lamp socket. Reinstall in oposite order. Be sure not to touch the glass portion of the new lamp with your fingers -- wear gloves. The oil from your skin will shorten the lamp life if you do. It is possible to release the headlamp so it pulls out, making access to the connector (described above) much easier: NOTE: This procedure is detailed & illustrated in the Owner's Manual that came with the car, approximately page 246. The entire headlamp acutally sits inside of a mounting bracket - this means it is very easy to fully release, and remove the headlamp to make bulb replacement much less *painful*! There are 2 headlight retainer clips to find - they are: 1) black, upside-down L-shaped metal clips about 1/2 inch wide 2) located just behind the top edge of the headlamp glass, inside the engine compartment. Release and pull the clips upward. The headlamp assembly will now pull forward providing great access to the electrical connector and bulb retainer ring.
The following applies to 1999 - 2003 Windstars. Chances are these steps also apply to the Freestar and Mercury Monterey.
The entire headlamp housing assembly sits inside of a mounting bracket - this means it is very easy to fully release, and remove the headlamp to make bulb replacement much less *painful*!
There are 2 headlight retainer clips to find - they are:
Release by pulling the top towards you while pulling the clips upward. The headlamp assembly will now pull forward providing great access to the electrical connector and bulb retainer ring.
Once you've pulled the entire headlight assembly outwards toward yourself, there is a small clip molded into the plug that has to clear the corresponding tab on the bulb assembly itself. You can pull it up SLIGHTLY while you pull the connector straight back (away from you) to remove the cable. Do not break the plastic clip - you only need to raise it about 1/16th inch to clear the tab.
With the cable unplugged, look at the back of the bulb assembly. You will see a small ring with three raised "ears". Rotate this counterclockwise about 120 degrees, and the 3 small square tabs under the ring can slip through the ring itself. Remove the ring.
The bulb assembly is now exposed. Pull it straight back (away from you) to remove it. It has a rubber ring on the new bulb to seal the entire assembly from water. Do NOT remove the large rubber ring that goes around the retainer ring that you removed in the previous step.
With the old bulb assembly removed, open the package for the new bulb. CAUTION: Do NOT touch the bulb itself. Fingertip oil, even very slight, can cause the bulb to fail very quickly. Holding the new bulb by the base, you will see 3 small detents (two of them rather close together, and the other on the opposite side of the base). Line these up with the corresponding marks on the headlight bezel assembly, and then push the bulb assembly gently into place. Once inserted, take the ring from the step above, slide it over the back of the bulb assembly and ensuring that the 3 square black tabs go through the square holes in the ring. Then, twist the ring clockwise about 120 degrees, using the "ears", until the ring is fully engaged. Check that you the square tabs are on the outside of the ring (it's easy to miss one, so that only two of the tabs are engaged - this can result in the bulb being loose).
Once locked in place with the ring, reattach the cable (the "D" shape of the plug matches the back of the bulb assembly), and press it into place until the small plastic clip goes up and over the tab on the bulb base, locking the cable in place.
Push the headlight bezel assembly back into place, push the "L" shaped metal tabs back into place (straight down, until they click), and test the light.
NOTE: This procedure is detailed & illustrated in the Owner's Manual that came with the car, approximately page 246.