All clocksprings are located in the steering column under the steering wheel airbag. Have fun!! Ron
Under the hood fuse panel near the battery
I would recommend 34 to 36 for optimal gas mileage and performance. Never exceed 44 pounds(in fact anything over 40 is too much).
I have a Saturn 2001 300 L . The lights on the inside of car wont work.
Okay, if it isn't a manual...get them to check the transmission sensor. I had to have a tech guy from the plant in Springville? come to Jackson, Tn. and test mine. My automatic would stall on take off at odd times and leave me hanging in the middle of an intersection. When it finally would jump into first it'd give you whiplash. They replaced the sensor and haven't had a problem since.. Carolyn I am assuming this is a manual transmission. It may be due to your clutch not fully disengaging. Have you noticed the shifter being hard to move between gears? If so, is your clutch master cylinder fluid low? ( It is located near the firewall on the drivers side near your brake master cylinder - the clutch master uses DOT 3 brake fluid)On such a new car I would think the clutch slave cylinder would be OK ,but check it anyway. I hope this helps you. Mark
After spending a good hour trying to figure out mine...a kid at Kmart hoping to fit my new table into my trunk figured it out for me! Inside the trunk there are two black knobs - one for each side of the seats - they are located along the topside of the trunk. You simply pull on them to pop the seats open.
the tensioner assembly is bolted to the side of the engine block. the spring is contained within the assembly. View my BIO for access to my Saturn help site. there is a picture of the assembly under the Serpentine belt folder
All you have to do is pull off the bezel...to do this grab the heater vents(put your fingers in between the louvers) and pull straight out. This releases the top tabs Then work your way down to the bottom pulling out the clips on the way Now the stereo is exposed and all you need is a 7/32...7mm socket to remove good luck...saturnguy
If you installed a trailer light set up you should go back and verify the connection or remove it to see it the problem goes away. I have had the same problem with other vehicles and yes the dash light are tied in with the tail lights.
You need a 9/16" box end wrench for the drain plug. The filter requires a special socket to remove the cap. I used to use a 1 1/4" open end wrench until I bought the socket from Snap-On.
Saturn IONS with Manual Transmission usually will run up to 300k probably need a new clutch at 150k. Ions with an automatic transmission will usually need a new Tranny at 150k
Remove the wheel, the brake caliper, and the brake caliper bracket. Remove the axle nut ( 32mm i believe). remove the 3 bolts on the back of the bearing( next to the axle shaft). Tap the end of the axle back in towards the center of the car, and tap on the hub with a hammer to separate the bearing from the knuckle.
Sounds really involved but I did both sides in about an hour - no alignment is required afterwards, and it is not necessary to remove the ball joint or tie-rod ends as several other posts on the web indicate.
Addendum 12/31/2009 from another user:
The information above is very good, thank you for that. I just did this myself on a 2003 Ion and it went very smoothly. Here is a little more information:
- The axle nut on this car is 30mm. I actually used a 1 3/16" socket (about the same size) because I have one that fits my hefty 3/4" drive breaker bar. The nut wasn't nearly as tight as I thought it would be, but if you are not using an impact wrench, be sure to loosen it first thing with the car resting on the wheel, before you take the wheel off.
- Be ready with a piece of rope or wire to hang the brake caliper after removal. Never let the caliper hang from the hose.
- The hub does indeed have three bolts securing it from the rear, and once removed, it taps off fairly easily. One cautionary note... when the suspension spring was fully extended (ie, the car was jacked up and the wheel removed), I could not get a socket onto the top bolt because the CV joint was in the way. I got around this by putting another jack directly under the ball joint and pushing the hub assembly up, compressing the spring and changing the angle of the CV joint. With much pushing, I was *barely* able to get the socket on and remove the bolt. A good, closed-ended wrench might have sufficed instead but I couldn't find the right size in my toolbox. I was using a 13mm socket.
All things considered, this was the easiest wheel bearing job I've ever done, but certainly the most expensive as well :) To buy the entire hub, it cost me $160 at AutoZone (PA, USA). Good luck!
Probably on the engine end of the upper radiator hose Probably on the engine end of the upper radiator hose
In the trunk under the floor mat by the spare tire
If it is just the center peice around the radio you want to remove.. pull hard on the air vents at the top this will pop the clips out and then just pull it out at the bottom
The dash cover is difficult to remove There are a lot of hidden screws What side or what cover do you want to remove? The passenger side has the air bag right under it BE CAREFUL
I have a 2005 ion-3 quad coup and I have 6.5" speakers.
I have a Saturn Ion coupe but this should apply to all models of Saturn Ion's with or without power mirrors.
1. Roll the window down. Take key out of ignition. Inside the door locate the plastic panel directly behind the mirror. With a small screw driver pry this panel GENTLY away from the door. If is not connected in any way to the main internal plastic door panel. It has three clips that fit into holes and is easily replaced once removed. Carefully remove the foam piece that is located in a large hole behind the now removed panel. If you have power mirrors locate the wire coming from the mirror there is a connector located along this wire. Unplug it and note how it goes back into the hole.
2. Locate 3 bolts. 2 are behind the panel you just removed and the third is higher up and to your right as you look at the large hole and inside the area where the door closes against the body. With a socket or hand wrench remove the nuts off the 3 studs. Support the old mirror during removal. Pull the old mirror away from the door and throw it out.
3. To install a new mirror first plug in the electrical connector and feed the wire down into the door cavity while bringing the 3 studs on the mirror into alignment with the holes in the door. Push the mirror all the way up against the door. Put the nuts on by hand while gently applying pressure toward the door on the mirror assembly. With the same wrench used to remove the nuts tighten them down on the studs but DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Put foam piece back into hole in door and replace the plastic panel by aligning the clips into their holes and push it into place. Your done.
It takes a special tool available at parts stores. they should show you how to use it.
If you have a 13 mm flat cone wrench (for you old cyclists) like me, it slips right in and the clamp comes right out! Glad I still have the ols school tools.
If you need to make a tool, space the slot 13mm.
This winter I was smacking the wipers against the windshield to get ice off of them. Afterwards, when using the wipers, the driver's side wiper would go too far in it's cycle, return to the home position later than usual, slamming back down to the home position (sort of violently - it made me and my wife laugh, but then she said "you really need to get that fixed"); sometimes it would go so far and go completely off of the windshield and past the column completely off of the car, making a lot of noise and did a very poor job of cleaning the windshield. It was seriously unsafe. Apparently I broke a piece of plastic that is part of the assembly. I could tell by shining a flashlight through the screened slots on the assembly cover. There were two jagged pieces of plastic that I could tell were once whole (the broken piece).
This was a fun little adventure for me. I spent a while trying to get the arms off of the spindle and that's when I found this posting. Thanks to the previous poster, I found you need to wiggle the round caps off that are at the bottom of the arms. There's a little slot on each arm by the cap just big enough for a small standard screw driver. Get it started with a small screw driver and then pull up from side to side until you work it off. These cover the nuts that hold the arms onto the spindle. Once the nuts are off, the arms still don't want to come off. I sprayed the spindle and nut with a little wd-40, then held the arm with one hand while pulling the arm up and smacked the spindle with a hammer. You need to remove the radio antenna; an adjustable wrench works well for that. You also need to disconnect the washer fluid hose under the hood. There's a quick disconnect near the wiper assembly cover. Pull it from each end while pulling one of the tabs away from the hose and then pull the other tab away. There's also about four or five plastic tabs connected to the wiper assembly cover that hold some wires; they need to come off. I used small pliers and pinched the plastic tabs on top while pulling the bottom piece downward. Once all that's done, there're two bolts and two plastic snaps that hold the wiper assembly cover onto the car. My plastic snaps on each end aren't the same since i pried them out, but they're not important. The cover's a pain to get off. I had to walk around the car, raising and lowering the hood while moving and wiggling the cover around. Seemed to be most annoying by the radio antenna hole. When you finally get the cover off, you have access to the assembly. The assembly's all one unit; and I bet if I would've taken my car to Saturn, they would've charged me for a whole new assembly plus at least an hours labor. (The part that was broken on mine is a piece of plastic that seems to have been manufactured with the metal tube crimped around it. It looks like it wasn't made to be repaired.) There are three bolts holding it on. There's a quick disconnect for the electrical connections on the motor that's easier to remove once you remove the three bolts and pull the assembly part way out. I think i had to flip the assembly over to find the little square opening. You need to stick a small standard screw driver in the opening while tugging on the quick disconnect. I don't have a garage (just a carport), so I was happy to learn the whole assembly comes off and you can take it inside where it's warm. That's how I got the windshield wiper assembly out of my 2003 Saturn Ion. I image you can buy a new assembly and slap it in. I'm assuming you have to purchase a whole new one if the motor goes out. It really looks like they made it as one part, forcing you to buy the whole thing if any part of it stops working or breaks. If you just had that plastic piece break like me, from beating the crap out of the wipers, then you should read below.
Towards the end of the metal tube, near where the piece of plastic broke, there's a little divot or indentation in the shape of a circle. (Having a table vice here helps a lot.) I drilled a whole the size of the circle on both sides; one side at a time (to ensure I drilled straight). I used different size bits, stepping up, finally drilling a 3/8 inch hole through the bar. Then i bought an aluminum strip from the hardware store. 1/8 inch thick and 3/4 inch wide. It was about $7. Also bought two 2 1/2-inch long (i think, maybe longer) 3/8 inch stainless steel bolts & nuts with four stainless washers and two stainless locking washers. 2.5 inch by 1/4" also work well. You may have to buy some extra non locking washers so that only the threads are exposed for the nut (if you buy that sort of bolt). I can't remember what length I cut the strips into, but it was long enough to go from the hole I drilled to the plastic piece to the hole in the tube. I think they were 3 or 4 or 5 inch strips; just measure from a quarter inch past the hole in the tube to the edge of the biggest open space in the plastic piece. I apologize if this is confusing. I fixed this last night for the first time and am going by memory of how I improvised my repair. It worked out perfectly! So you need an aluminum strip on each side of the bar. What I did was cut two strips that looked about the right size and drilled a 3/8 inch hole at the end of the strips, then bolted one of the strips onto the metal tube. 3" mending plates from Home Depot work great for this purpose. They are the right size, and there are already holes in the metal. All you have to do is drill out two of the holes on each of the two plates. I used the first and third holes. The hole closest to the edge of the plate went against the exposed plastic piece, and the third whole in the plate went against the aluminum tube from the wiper assembly. I put the plastic piece up to where it should be if it wasn't broken off and swung the aluminum strip over to the center of the biggest open space in the plastic piece and marked a dot onto the aluminum piece where the center of the open space on the plastic piece is. I drilled a 3/8 inch hole there into the aluminum strip. Then I marked a dot through the center of the new hole (of the strip) onto the plastic piece. I now cut a hole there into the plastic piece. Here I bolted the other aluminum strip on the other side and marked a dot through the other two holes and drilled a third hole, making a hole lining up through the two strips and the plastic piece. I then put the second bolt through those holes using a washer on each side of each bolt and a lock washer on the nut side. Tightened pretty tight, but not enough to break the plastic piece (obviously). If it's done well enough, it will be rock solid, like mine turned out, luckily. I hope my crappy instructions help. i uploaded some pictures to flickr. check out the links below. Make sure that you configure the assembly correctly so that the motion is on the same side of the assembly. I first put the assembly together so that the cross bar was diagonal to the rest of the assembly. This caused each of the wipers to go in opposite directions. Oops! Before putting the wipers back on the assembly, I'd just turn them on to see if the wipers will move in sync and in the same direction.
This a is very awesome article, we followed it exactly and it worked to the tee, saved us alot of money finding this. thank you very much.
I had to repair both sides. I used the 3" mending plates from Home Depot, they worked great. I used 2" X 1/4 bolts with extra washers and nyloc (plastic locking insert) nuts. I did not use 3/8 bolts because I wanted to keep the holes drilled as small as possible.
I could remove the connector from the wiper motor, the wires on my car were very tight, not long enough to turn the assembly over as described above. I tried inserting a screw driver and an awl into the slot to free the connector but it would NOT budge. It started to crack.
I decided to cut the four wires and reconnect them later. This was a pain because the wires from the main harness to the wiper motor did not have enough slack to work with them comfortably. I ended up extending them but I had to tie wrap the extra slack because I didn't want the wires to contact the moving mechanism for the wipers.
Hopefully you can get your connector off................................. other than that the instructions worked perfectly
The initial procedure worked well, thank you for the post.
Just a couple minor improvements:
1. Hitting the wiper stud/spline with a hammer could damage the threads. If you must use a hammer, back the nut half way off and hit the nut. Although, this did create some minor metal-smear on the nut, which had to be filed. However, I would rather file the hex nut (or use a new nut), than get out the tap-and-die kit to "chase the threads" on the wiper stud! That worked for the passenger side, but the hood was in way on the driver's side (even when open). For that I improvised and used a battery-terminal-puller. Saturn makes a special tool for the job, but any variety of bearing/pulley pullers may be used, if it's the right size. NOTE: when reassembling, I placed a small amount of anit-seize compound on the tapered spline. Be careful to only put it on the spline, and NOT the threads. For the threads, when reinstalling the wiper arm, use a SMALL amount of BLUE Locktight (not red!).
2. Like the person above, I had trouble with the electrical connector. I was determined NOT to cut the wires, so I opted to CAREFULLY loosen the 7 or 8 tabs on the plastic motor housing. The "stuck" connector remained attached to the housing cover, allowing me to then remove the wiper assembly. Before beginning repairs, I covered the exposed hole in the motor housing with masking tape, so no debris would get inside. Truth be told, removing the cover was a RISKY move. Any number of things could have gone wrong, which they did. After I repaired the wiper transmission tube, I reinstalled the assembly, and carefully put the motor housing cover back in place (making sure the brushes slid over the armature). But, when I op-checked the wipers, they were dead. The next day I started troubleshooting, and found that the 25 Amp fuse under the hood was toasted ("Wiper mini relay," but it's a fuse). I replaced the fuse, but it cooked the new fuse immediately when turning the wiper control to ON. I must have taken the wiper assembly out 4 or 5 more times, first checking for proper linkage motion, then checking under the housing cover again. Well, it turns out one of the brush wires on the cover had popped out of its stowage slot, and was touching the armature, hence the short circuit. I carefully placed the wire back, and it worked fine. IF YOU DO TRY REMOVING THE PLASTIC MOTOR HOUSING COVER, LIKE I DID, PLEASE BE CAREFUL!!!
3. Ok, during the housing cover debacle above (which cost me several hours and a few gray hairs), I was still determined to figure out how to remove the four-wire electrical connector. I did not mention it above, but when I was first trying to remove the connector, I had actually cracked and broken a small tab on the connector. Not sure what to do, I turned my attention to the 1/8" square opening on the back. One can see that there is a small tab/barb (inside the little square) which is holding the connector in place. I messed around with this for seemingly an hour, using a small screwdriver, but still could not get the connector to budge. I decided to snip off the rest of the protruding area (above the little square) with a pair of side-cutters or dykes. I removed the protruding portion that travels the length of the connector, and is about 3/8" wide. I was right in my assumption, but wrong in how to disable it. The small barb/tab inside the square is holding it in place, but once the extra plastic material was removed, it revealed a hidden tab that must be lifted up and over the small barb/tab. My guess is that the tab I had broken of at the beginning is a lever arm of sorts, used to lift the internal (hidden) tab. So, any first timers -- CAREFULLY USE THE LITTLE EXTERNAL TAB TO MOVE THE "HIDDEN" TAB OVER THE LITTLE BARB/TAB IN THE 1/8" SQUARE, BUT DO NOT USE TOO MUCH FORCE, OR IT WILL SNAP RIGHT OFF! I SUSPECT IT CAN BE DONE BY HAND, WITHOUT A SCREWDRIVER. Sorry if this seems like rambling, but just trying to describe in detail as best I can.
Well my daughter tried wiping the snow off of her windshield and guess what broke. Yep you guessed it. Glad I found this thread! Went to Home Depot bought the 1/8"X3/4" Steel flat bar less than $4 bucks, (2) 2.5" X 1/4 bolts, washers and 1/4" ocking hex nuts. I pressed the broken piece together to get the measurement of indent on tube to broken plastic part. It was 1-5/8" center of drilled hole to center. I drilled both holes 1-5/8" center-center, then cut the bar to approx 2.5" then I drilled and cut a second piece. Next I drilled the indent portion of the aluminum tube with 1/4" drill. I attached both bars to the tube with the bolts to create a splint then I pressed the broken plastic piece back into place and drilled thru the open hole of the opposite end of the splint. Inserted the second bolt and made secure. I put the unit back into the car. Turned on the wiper it moved once then quit. The #19, 25A wiper fuse popped. I took everything apart again loosed the bolts and tried moving the assembly by hand. Once it seemed to move smoothly some pressure time to time in the rotation but not bad I placed it back into the car replaced the fuse and tested again. It WORKS! What a sight for sore eyes. Next I put everything back inplace in reverse order and its all good!
Nice thread and than you all!.
Just finished my change out. The plastic broke at the point of exit from the aluminum tube. The mending strap from Home Depot great idea, went with 2", 1/4" stainless steel with locking nuts and a couple of flat washers. 2" was too long, sawed off maybe 1//4 inch.
Like most ran into the problem of breaking small plastic brace in connector. I saw the logic of having in a vice and drill press, but instead saw myself causing more problems than I needed. Took a hand drill, left the entire wiper brace in the car, but disconnected to I could get in a better position to work with. screwed into the indented area on the aluminum tube, through the plastic that remained on the inside. I actually took a smaller bit and drilled through the offsetting triangular black plastic. Bolted up both sides worked great. Thanks to all.
I also found that the plastic broke as it exited the aluminum tube on the driver's side wiper, causing the wiper to swing off of the windshield. I'm not much of a fabricator so I ended up going to the dealer for a new part. I found it interesting that they no longer use plastic to mount the wiper arm spindle to the housing.
I found it easier to just remove the hood to allow better access to the wipers. It is only 4 bolts. I propped the hood up on pieces of 2x4 high enough to expose the bolts. Loosen all 4, then remove the rear ones first.
To pull the wiper arms off I needed a small gear puller. Pop the caps off and loosen the nuts. I left the nut partially on to keep the gear puller from slipping off the spindle. Breaking the wiper arm loose required a good deal of force and it came off with a "pop".
The vent cover was 2 small bolts in the middle, and 2 wedge pins on the outsides. The pins were removed by pulling the small round inner portion up first, then pull larger round plugs.
Working from the driver's side swing the vent cover out of the way to expose the wiper motor and housing. The washer fluid lines can remain on.
The housing is mounted with 3 bolts. I moved the motor to the new housing, setting it up in the "wipers down" position. I'm not sure if it can be put together any other way. It was much easier to put it all back together and only required one repositioning of the passenger side wiper arm to get it in the proper position.
Glad I found this wiki, it has saved me alot of time. The only thing that I would add is that you need to use the blue thread locker on the nut that holds the motor arm in place at the bottom of the motor. Obviously the arm needs to be adjusted properly (all the way down) when installing this nut.
Wow, your article saved me hundreds of dollars! I am not a mechanic, but your instructions were thorough enough to make me confident in trying the wiper transmission repair.
Since a picture is worth a thousand words, here is a good video that shows how to install/remove the transmission:
Just a note, instead of removing the electrical connector from the wiper motor (and risk breaking the plug), it is far easier to remove the motor from the transmission. There are three Torx bolts and one nut, then the motor comes off! It can stay in the engine compartment while you remove the transmission to work on it.
Lastly, I used the 3" mend plates from Home Depot which worked perfectly. However, the two 2-1/2" bolts that you suggested are way too long. 1-1/2" x 1/4" bolts are perfect for the job. With two lock washers and one nylon locking nut, this length is fine.
Thanks again for the repair instructions! They truly were valuable.
Some GM vehicles have a sealed for life transmission and do not have a dip stick. Also if it is a manual transmission then it has no dipstick.
On the driver side of the vehicle, on the top of the transmission, there's a plastic yellow thing with a picture of a gear with liquid in it (indicating transmission fluid), that's your transmission dipstick. The only other yellow plastic piece that you can see is your oil dipstick. The tranny dipstick is bolted down with a 12 mm bolt that you'll have to remove. After removal of the bolt, just pull the dipstick straight out to check fluid level. The dipstick may be a bit harder to pull out than you imagine, but as long as you took that bolt off, it'll come out.
The transmission that's in your Saturn was not intended to be checked by the owner. The theory is that you'll check your fluid when it's not up to temp, think it's low, and add more, overfilling your transmission. However, I think most owners would prefer having a more easily accessible dipstick. Even if it's only to check the color of your tranny fluid. You should also make sure that the fluid doesn't have a burnt odor.
The tranny shouldn't need to have any fluid added to it unless you have a leaking transmission. However, you should have your transmission fluid and filter changed every 50K miles.
The fuel filter is located under the car behind the fuel tank on the right hand side It has 1 10mm bolt holding it on and "press" release clips for the lines
In general, an ion is an atom or a molecule (group of atoms) that has gained or has lost one or more electrons, thus giving it an overall charge. An ion with more electrons than protons and thus having an overall negative charge is called a cation. Conversely, an ion with fewer electrons than protons and thus having an overall positive charge is an anion. The concept of an ion is a fundamental chemistry idea.
The charge of an ion can be indicated by a superscript +/- and then the charge number. For example, a sodium ion, with a charge of +1, and can be shown as Na+1, Na1+, or Na+.
Because of the nature of atomic structure, many atoms or groups of atoms want to "borrow" or "loan out" electrons to achieve a lower energy state. In ionic bonds, electrons are transferred rather than shared, as in covalent bonds. The electron structures of atoms drives the tendency of atoms to make those borrowing or loaning arrangements. Atoms want an inert gas electron configuration (8 outer-shell electrons), and will "pick up" or "dump" an electron or electrons to accomplish that goal. As mentioned, it's all about achieving a lower energy state, and as regards atom groups, they also want to make changes to move to a lower energy state. This is the fundamental driving force that we study in chemistry; it's what chemistry is all about. Use the links below to related questions and to other sites for more information. The definition of the word ion is "an atom or molecule with a net electric charge due to the loss or gain of one or more electrons."
To locate and change the oil filter: It is on the front-right side of the engine block (about 8 inches from the front of the engine). Molded to the engine block. Black plastic rounded cap with a hex 32 mm or 1 1/4
This is a very difficult job involving recovering the R134a from the A/c and the coolant This is too big a job for the backyard guy. I get paid 8 hrs to do it and it takes close to that. Are you sure you want to try?
You would have to support the engine and drop the front suspension subframe to get the oil pan off.
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