BOV's (blow-off valve) are to prevent too much positive pressure from entering the engine due to boost build-up and to releave back pressure from re-entering the Engine. A non-turbo car cannotuse a "BOV" since there is no turbo and/or positive pressure present in the intake manifold. This is STRONGLY not recommended, on NON-Turbo cars. As there is not reason for it to be present.
yes though you may need better than backyard mechanic knowledge. check the internet for "turbocharging". this will give you a basic idea of cost, what will work and some will give instructions on how to. alot of times they sell them in kits for the do-it-yourselfer. good luck
Of course you can put on a turbo, but you should probably get a professional opinion, and research witch is the best turbo for you.
Find another 93 eclipse or eagle talon in a junkyard and swap the parts from one car to the other and the computer also. And only run 5 pounds of boost. Which can be controlled by a boost controller.
It's possible but potentially very costly. Several things must be considered, including: (1) The current compression ratio of your engine - it will need to be lowered because of the increased air pressure in the manifold and combustion chambers from the turbo. (2) The fuel pressure regulator may need to be changed. (3) The intake and exhaust manifolds will need to be replaced with manifolds that have additional ports for the turbocharger connections. (4) The camshaft will need to come from a turbocharged car. I've seen this question pop up many times in car forums. It's usually cheaper (and safer) to just buy a car that has a stock turbo as opposed to spending a lot of money on turbocharging a naturally aspirated engine.
Correction. The camshaft need not be from a turbocharged car. Often times the cam specs are the same and sometimes N/A cars have wilder specs.
I've installed turbo's on a few cars that were originally NA. It's generally not as bad as many say it is and you can generally just put the kit on a healthy NA motor as long as you TUNE for it. The biggest thing that is overlooked is when you add something such as a turbo the engine will need more fuel/retard the timing. Example of parts:
Turbo manifold, turbo, oil feed/return lines, materials for a downpipe, materials for charge pipes, wastegate, blow-off valve (or recirc valve depending on MAP/MAF setup), intercooler (not always needed if boost is low enough), clutch to hold the power, silicone couplings/t-clamps for couplings, larger diameter exhaust system, engine management (DON'T cheap out and use an FMU or any piggy back system, most vehicles will either be able to be chipped and tuned by a professional or a standalone system can be used and tuned to your boost/power level.
Some things that are a good idea to change while in there are the head bolts. Most times the head will lift under boost if stronger bolts aren't used. Sometimes a thicker radiator is needed as well because of the extra heat the turbo can cause.
For vehicle specific stuff there are tons of forums out there online.
I'm not absolutely sure, but try this: A fusebox is located inside the car just above the driver's left footrest. Look on the leftside footwell surface for a small panel. You will probably need a flashlight. The panel is opened by sliding it up and then pulling it away. There are about 18 fuses in there. The back of the panel contains a table showing the location and amperage for each fuse. There is also a handy fuse puller attached to the bottom of the panel along with four spare fuses. I can't understand why the driver's manual makes no mention of this fusebox. Good luck!
I assume you are talking about an automatic trans? If so, it doesn't sound good. Have you serviced trans lately? Sometimes brand new fluid can cause old trans to slip. Auto trans are complicated animals. Don't take it to one of those AAmco type places unless you want to spend a small fortune. The only trustworthy place I know is David Colbath Trans but that is in San Antonio, Texas. Ask your regular mechanic first, someone you trust. Good Luck! I had 2 identical Geos with the same problem. Turned out to be weak fuel pumps. Check your fuel pressure
undo ground wire cable then jack the car up. Much easier from the bottom. Remove the belt by loosening the adjuster until belt can be rolled off pulley.There are 2 12 mm bolts at the top of the alternator .one can be seen from the front without much trouble the other you must feel for from the back . To get the unit to clear power steering and A/c lines it is best to let down the sway bar. undo battery wire from back of alternator. I think it will take longer than 20 minutes for the turbo model .
NO the heads are made slightly diffrent the bolt patterns will not match up. Rather than aftermarket what you can do is purchase the parts for an L67 (3.8 supercharged) and put them on your L36 (3.8 non supercharged).It's not really simple like some people think but it's definitely doable (many people have gone down this road). The following is a list of everything you will need:
L67 idler pullies (there's two of them)
L67 belt tensioner
L67 throttle body
L67 crank pulley
L67 MAP sensor
L67 Valve Covers
L67 fuel rail
L36 to L67 wiring harness adapter kit
Vac lines (I used 7/64" rubber hose)
Coil pack bracket from a 97-98 GT/GTP
2 changes worth of oil/oil filters
2 gallons of coolant
Valve Cover gaskets
Fuel rail o-rings Check out the postings at http://www.grandprix.net/and look to Ed Morad http://www.moradpartscompany.com/as an excellent source for used grand prix parts. Hope this helps. "G"
Your engine will run poorly, rough, lack power, etc. as if it isn't running on all cylinders (because it isn't). It may or may not start poorly, or at all. It will likely be burning more fuel than normal. One or more spark plugs may be blackened with dry, sooty deposits (indicating poor ignition). If spark tested, one or more spark plug leads may show weak or non-existent spark.
Engine diagnostic tools will often be able to point to a coil pack as being problematic, but often can't tell conclusively. They will often simply say that some cylinder or another is misfiring.
Note: Before assuming a bad coil pack, check your spark plugs and wires and replace them if they are either bad, quite old, or if their trustworthyness is questionable. Plugs and wires should be replaced in complete sets whenever possible.
If you pop the hood, on the back of the headlight housing, there are some wires with a snap on or twist on connection. If you disconnect them as you pull them out the headlight is attached to the other end of the connection. Make sure not to touch your new bulbs with your hands because the glass on a headlight bulb is designed to run at a high temperature, but the oils on your hand get hotter than the temperature they are suppose to operate and will cause them to blow or bust. If you do accidentally touch one, just wash it off with alcohol.
Go to this link: http://www.thumper300zx.com/z32/boostleaks/vacuum_hose_guide.htm This should give you all the info you need :)
from all that i have seen it would appear that there is major problems that nissan are all too egar to keep under raps.
First the intercooler goes bad and oil drips from left hand side then the turbo starts to scream nissan dealers more than happy to tell you this is normal or that the noise is acceptable for a turbo
An intercooler is placed in the airflow path between the turbocharger and the engine intake in order to cool the air after it has been compressed by the turbo. Compressing air heats it up. By cooling it back down, the air becomes denser. This means more air molecules go into the cylinder. This (when mixed with the proper amount of fuel) increases engine power compared to a non-intercooled engine.
In the back of your car, under the floor mat, on the driver's side is a "tool kit". It includes your jack,wheel stops,etc. In this kit is a LONG TUBE. This is your spark plug remover!!! Simply remove your spark plug cable and reach into the plug hole with the tool and unscrew the plug out.
Before removing the plugs blow out any dirt that is around the plug, the dirt if not removed may get into the cylinder when you change the plugs.
There were 3,000 Nissan 300zx convertibles made
it probably means that your back (rear) hatch is open. rear window defogger
Hello, I am afraid that the voltage regulator is INTERNAL. Which means that you will have to replace the alternator to fix your problem. This is an under the Z job and I think it is a 2.3hr labor rate at the shop. I can do them in about 30-45 minutes. Before you do replace the alternator please keep in mind 2 things. First, buy an alternator with a lifetime warranty!!!!! There have been a few bad batches of diodes within the alternator and a few of us had to replace the alternators every few weeks a time or two. Or you could purchase an OEM one but they are pretty expensive. Second, if you do not have a set of METRIC RATCHING WRENCHES, THEN PLEASE BUY THEM BEFORE STARING ON THIS PROJECT! There is not alot of room to work and sockets just don't cut it! Believe me, the right tool makes all of the difference! You will also need a 15mm or 17mm socket and a bungee cord. It is alot easier to swing down the sway bar but before you do lash it up with the bungee cord so you don't hit yourself on the head :) You will also have to remove the skidpads underneath and don't be heart broken when you will snap off the heads of a few 10/12mm bolts. This happens! You do not need to remove your alternator belt but clipping it out of the way helps. Also, YOU NEED TO COMPLETELY DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY!!!!!!!! For more advice on your Z: www.z31.com Anna N. DesignQuest Auto Enhancing Tri-State Z Car Club IZCC #11540 Z31 #2524
Check out this site: www.twinturbo.net There you will find all the info you need and then some. From that site, there is a link to twinturboz's of Dallas. You will find a complete removal and installation guide with photos.
Also DO NOT FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS TO DRILL YOUR INTAKE. It's pointless and takes even more time to even get to your injectors. Your best bet is to Take the intake off by which it only took me about 30 minutes,
Remoe the coil pack plugs and injector plugs, TPS sensor plug and vac hoses on that black air crossover, IACV plug and whatever the other plug is next to it. Then remove the temp plug and temp plug next to it as well. Man thing is to allow the harness to be free from the intake
There's a crossover hose for the water and just cut that if it's as hard as a rock. take the plastic intake vac hoses off, take the center bolts off the intake, there are two bolts per side on the intake in the middle, remove those.
on the driver side back side of the intake there's a large 5/8th's hose that will stump you every time near the IACV, remove that however you can and repeat on the passenger side
THE INJECCTOR PLUG MIGHT HAVE METAL CLIPS SO REMOVE THOSE FIRST BEFORE LIFTING THE PLUG OUT.
There are two 10mm bolts on the bottom where the two metal rods connect the intake towards the front bottom side of the intake(Dont know that piece yet) remove those.
the intake should come off.
NOW there's two bolts per injector holding the injector down. I know from experience that they will be locked into place but can easliy be removed....
Get some vice grips and lock it down on the Philips head of the screw(Just enough to lock it down firmly, not he-man tight. and give it a little twist(No this will not ruin your bolt nor prevent you from install it back, this is the way I did it to prevent me from stripping the head it self.)
Repeat that for the other side of that injector and that's it, you should be able to pull it up.(Repeat this step for the other 5)
From there you should be able to see the other bolts that keep the fuel rail in place so you handle that.
The injectors are hard as hell to remove so be ready to use some muscle a little bit. I just pryed in different sections to remove them because it didn't matter if the the plastic was broke or not because they were all bad pretty much.
after remove the old beat down injectors, have a bit of wd40 or silky gas solution because you will be using that to lube up the holes to place the new injectors in.
BE SURE TO CLEAN THE HOLES FIRST.
Now grab a q-tip or your finger whatever and dip it into the wd40(I prefer) and just run your fingers around the lower and upper hole of that injector port and gentle place the injector in. Then go ahead and push down simoltanuously on each side of the injector to evenly place it down. Now go ahead and place that cap and the two bolts on it which will finish it down. Tighten it down little by little on each side.
Repeat that last step for the rest of them and them re-install and you have yourself a running car. Be sure all of your hoses are placed back.
TIP: i went ahead and remove that pointless black piping for the fuel and ran an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator to the inlet and a hose back to the return line. That black piece is just used for fuel dampening and regulating which I find that is ok but pointless.
Besides the fuel was dampened and then it was regulated... CRAZY!!!! So in place where the inlet side goes, just install a jdm adjustable regulator and the outlet just straight hose it back to the return hose and leave it at that.
From that air crossover piping on the intake, just cap the vac ports off. I'm running 93 in mine as that's what the car calls for so don't go believing cheap gas it what is needs. The timing is so far advanced and your coils are good. If you have to use cheap gas, back off your CAS a bit
When inserting the injectors into place, DO NOT use WD40. Please use either grease or vaseline. Just dabb it on all over the rubber seals.
Using WD40 could work, but unfortunately you will still run the risk of pinching the lower seal when installing the injectors. This will cause that cylinder to flood up when the engine gets turned on. You would then have to pull everything back out and replace the lower seal on the injector.
Good answer though.
Is your Check Engine light on? If so, I suggest running the self-diagnostic procedure with your ECU. It might indicate a bad fuel injector, which have a tendency to work sporadically when they are failing. This causes a very noticeable hesitation, especially at cruising speeds. Unfortunately, this would be a costly repair. I hope this isn't your problem, though it's happened to my 1990 N/A on two separate occasions. Runs like a charm again when fixed though.
ITS TO THE RIGHT OF THE ENGINE WHEN YOU OPEN THE HOOD, ON TOP BY THE THE FRONT DRIVERS SIDE STRUT MOUNT
Hey Nancy==The firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6 and the dist turns clockwise and 1-3-5 are on the pass side. Can't find any timing specs. It may be nonadjustable. Good luck, Joe Answer Yes, the firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6 but the dist. spins COUNTER CLOCKWISE I was just under mine doing the timing belt 5 minutes ago and mine spins counter clockwise. Answer The firing order left side 1-3-5 right 2-4-6 counter clockwise and ignition timing (1984-1987 only) 20-degrees + 2-degrees @ 700 rpm
As long as the engine is the same size, manual or auto transmissions should bolt up properly. If the vehicle has different engine options, make sure they are the same engines or else they will not bolt up.
That's the simple and basic answer... Going from one to the other isn't simple plug and play. Manual transmissions are simple, require gear oil, no cooling for the oil, no independent ecu, and usually different length of a drive shaft or CV axles (rear or front wheel drive). An automatic require automatic tranny oil specific to the make's requirements, hooks up to the radiator to cool the oil, and an independent ecu. Wiring is also different along the engine's wiring harness. Also, The alternator's wiring harness maybe affected. Relays maybe required aswell.
Can a manual and auto tranny be changed/switched? Yes
Is it practical? Absolutely not! There is alot to it that just a bolt on. Auto to Manual is easier, but you will need hydrolic lines for the clutch.
ZCAR GRL Anna
Check wiring on back of lights, exchange globes with someone who has same car, check fuses(they should be labelled), check voltage after the headlight switch with inexpensive multimeter. Use voltage tester with sharp probe to test voltages on the wires to see if power is getting to the lights and if not follow the wire back until you find voltage.
the Fan motor will keep running fort a short time after the car is shut off. the motor actually gets hotter after it is shut off so the fan cools it for a few minutes before cutting off. Actually, on all the mid 80s 300zx engines, there is a fuel injector cooling fan that directs cooling air on the injectors for a specific amount of time after the car has been run at normal operating temps and then shut off. Is your car a turbo z? If so then the fan that comes on is the fan that cools off the turbo after the key is shut off. Maybe you have an aftermarket fan set up for the air conditioner, but there again they usually come on while idling with the air on, but they generally shut off when the key is turned off. The fan is not used for cooling the turbocharger. The turbocharger itself is watercooled and does not have a need for a fan. The electric fan is for cooling the fuel injectors as mentioned in the previous post.
Have you tried buying a Haynes manual ya cheapskate?, wiring diagrams are in it
I had this problem. From what I can tell, the problem stems from two problems. One is moisture gets into the alternator and fries the core, and the other is actually with the spark plugs. If you are not running the engine long enough for it to get really hot, the fuel leaves deposits on the plug tips. Try cleaning the spark plugs and retry to start the car if it doesn't work still it is the Alternator. Also if you let it sit over a month, you might want to verify your liquid seals and fluid levels are still good. Okay, if it has sat for a month without any charge going to the battery, it is most likely the battery. Over time, batteries can lose their charge if not in use. Just get a jumpstart from a friendly neighbor or a buddy. I work in an auto parts store, so i tell people the better way to jumpstart their battery all the time, so it will survive for the next time you need to start it. whether it be jumper cables or a small jumper pack, allow the juice to flow into the dead car for about 2-5 minutes. then you can attempt to start it. if it wont start quite yet, let it go some more. when it starts, disconnect the donating juice and allow the vehicle to run at least a good 15 minutes to let the battery get some decent charge from the alternator. if you dont let it run before immediately driving somewhere, it may not get the proper charge it needs to be able to start it again. just a little car battery FYI: 1. A true dead battery wont hold a charge past an hour. 2. Keeping your terminals and posts clean from corrosion can help your battery last another year or two. 3. A simple multi-meter can tell you if your alternator is doing its job. 13-14Volts and up means it is ok, any lower and it needs to be replaced. just set your tester to DC 12 voltage. 4. If your battery appears to have bulging sides, it could mean it is being overcharged by the alternator. have the alternator an/or voltage regulator checked
Asked By Cherry
What is 308 rounded to the nearest 10?
Asked By Wiki User
What is the difference between Population and sample?
Asked By Wiki User
What is pokediger1s password on roblox?
Asked By Wiki User
How do you install an aftermarket tachometer into a 86 Nissan 300 ZX?
Asked By Wiki User
How do you replace the expansion valve on a 1986 300zx Nissan and also what do you have to do to replace the condenser I put a new drier and compressor in my car But guess it has some trash in it.?
Asked By Wiki User
How much would it cost to put a non turbo engine in a turbo engine car?
Asked By Wiki User
Ac in a 300zx?
Asked By Wiki User
Copyright © 2020 Multiply Media, LLC. All Rights Reserved. The material on this site can not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with prior written permission of Multiply.