Replacing brake pads is a pretty easy task. One must remove the tire, remove the brake shoe, remove the used pad, replace it with a new brake pad, replace the brake shoe, and replace the tire.
Lots of things-bad oil pressure, restriction in the oil drain tube on the turbo, excessive crankcase pressure, and a worn turbo can cause turbo smoke.
The starter is located just under the intake manifold. If you are standing on the side of the car with the battery you should be able to see it. It's not very difficult to replace. Make sure you disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid shock. There is one wire, that pulls apart, and two nuts on the starter that must be removed, the solenoid electrical connector and the starter terminal connection cable. Then there are two mounting bolts, one is on top of the unit and the other is on the bottom at a diagonal from the top bolt. Both bolts can be reached from above.
Remove the lines first then the mounting bolts.
this job usually costs about $500 - $600 at a shop, access the pump through the left front wheel well and remove the plastic covers shielding the engine from the wheel.
You'll need to remove the serpentine belt tensioner and and belt, after that its just removing the part itself.
the 300zx is cheaper to buy a turbo'ed engine and all the managment that goes with it. otherwise you have to buy a differenct ecu and a turbo. modify the block and run oil breathers and all the running gear, intercoolers and sensors.
get an obd2 scan to check for codes. many causes; tune-up, tps sensor, egr valve and dpfe sensor, o2 sensors etc... so get an engine diag.
-Switch spark plugs to factory motocraft plugs. Cheep and efficient! Also eliminates spark knocking with manual transmition and hitching or hesitation. Good Luck!
Photos are at http://s790.photobucket.com/albums/yy190/veryseniorgeek/starter/
20 U.S. gallons ( 75.6 liters ) according to the owners manual
The ECU is located underneath the wooden panel/ underneath the carpet on the passenger side, below the glovebox
peel the horn button's vinyl cover off first. then unscrew the horn button off. peel the horn button's vinyl cover off first. then unscrew the horn button off.
19.0 gallons for all except convertible and it's 18.2.
Maybe try replacing the fan clutch first.
Pack a new oil pump with petroleum jelly. This will create a suction when the pump starts up and suck oil in. The jelly will dissolve in the oil harmlessly.
Drivers side kick panel
With my 2000 it was the oil level sensor. I had other problems but that fixed the lite going on and off. First make sure you have clean oil and oil fliter. You or someone will have to take the oil pan off to get to the sensor so clean everything while you're in there. I also used an engine "cleaner" in the old oil first before changing the oil.
it is located to the right of where you poor your motor oil in.it looks like a 1 inch nut with 2 wires coming out of it.you need a 1 inch wrench to remove it but first unplug the wire harness.$80 for a new one from ford part number e5tz 17b384
Check fuel filter and fuel pump.
yes though you may need better than backyard mechanic knowledge. check the internet for "turbocharging". this will give you a basic idea of cost, what will work and some will give instructions on how to. alot of times they sell them in kits for the do-it-yourselfer. good luck
Of course you can put on a turbo, but you should probably get a professional opinion, and research witch is the best turbo for you.
Find another 93 eclipse or eagle talon in a junkyard and swap the parts from one car to the other and the computer also. And only run 5 pounds of boost. Which can be controlled by a boost controller.
It's possible but potentially very costly. Several things must be considered, including: (1) The current compression ratio of your engine - it will need to be lowered because of the increased air pressure in the manifold and combustion chambers from the turbo. (2) The fuel pressure regulator may need to be changed. (3) The intake and exhaust manifolds will need to be replaced with manifolds that have additional ports for the turbocharger connections. (4) The camshaft will need to come from a turbocharged car. I've seen this question pop up many times in car forums. It's usually cheaper (and safer) to just buy a car that has a stock turbo as opposed to spending a lot of money on turbocharging a naturally aspirated engine.
Correction. The camshaft need not be from a turbocharged car. Often times the cam specs are the same and sometimes N/A cars have wilder specs.
I've installed turbo's on a few cars that were originally NA. It's generally not as bad as many say it is and you can generally just put the kit on a healthy NA motor as long as you TUNE for it. The biggest thing that is overlooked is when you add something such as a turbo the engine will need more fuel/retard the timing. Example of parts:
Turbo manifold, turbo, oil feed/return lines, materials for a downpipe, materials for charge pipes, wastegate, blow-off valve (or recirc valve depending on MAP/MAF setup), intercooler (not always needed if boost is low enough), clutch to hold the power, silicone couplings/t-clamps for couplings, larger diameter exhaust system, engine management (DON'T cheap out and use an FMU or any piggy back system, most vehicles will either be able to be chipped and tuned by a professional or a standalone system can be used and tuned to your boost/power level.
Some things that are a good idea to change while in there are the head bolts. Most times the head will lift under boost if stronger bolts aren't used. Sometimes a thicker radiator is needed as well because of the extra heat the turbo can cause.
For vehicle specific stuff there are tons of forums out there online.
if you are rebuilding a Nissan 300zx motor VG30E or VG30ET then obviously you will go with injected because the ECM (computer) is already setup for top mounted injectors.
Whereas if you decided to go with something a little more creative like a small block V8 I would personally do a carb, but either is appropriate for you application. It just depends on how mechanically inclined you are... I have 5 muscle cars and absolutely love carbed motors. Really easy to work with, very simple and dependible.
My 300zx is my competition drift car and accepted the fact that its injected and just worked with it.
Also, if you are rebuilding a 300zx engine (or any motor for that matter), spend the extra 80$ or whatever and get a new timing belt kit. The VG30E(T) motors are interference motors and if you want power to play with the last thing you need is to have that break and crush your top end.
hope this helps
Here is the procedure for removing the blower unit on a 1990 300ZX. Note that it may be necessary to remove the glove box assembly to gain clearance for the blower motor removal and installation. The blower motor is located behind the glove box, facing the floor.
1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2) Remove all panels and ducting necessary to gain access to the blower motor.
3) Disconnect the blower motor harness wiring connectors.
4) Remove the blower motor retaining screws and lower the motor/wheel from the intake housing. On some models, release the clips that attach the blower casing to the intake
5) housing to remove the blower motor.
1) Transfer the old blower wheel to the shaft of the new motor.
2) Raise the blower/wheel assembly up and onto the intake housing. Use a new gasket, if required.
3) Install the blower motor retaining screws or lock the clips.
4) Connect the blower motor wiring.
5) Install all ducting and panels.
6) Connect the negative battery cable.
7) Check the blower for proper operation at all speeds.