The spring-side of the thermostat should be positioned towards the engine.

Logical when you think about the spring is what reacts to the temperature of the coolant - expanding and contracting with the heat levels - thus driving the opening and closing of the valve.

Not much, only 8-10 ft.lbs.

3.0 Vulcan and 3.8, 12 valve engines:

• Looking in from the front of the car, it is on the right side of the engine, where the radiator hose goes in - underneath a large wiring harness and is difficult to see.
• Remove the housing's three bolts - the thermostat will be inside.

  CAUTION NOTE for Vulcan Engines: From user WRENCHDUDE: the bottom thermostat housing bolt has been known to break off and has only occurred to me on the Vulcan engine. The problem seem to happen if corrosion sets up in the bolt hole. When you break off the bolt you wont have any trouble at all noticing the corrosion.

  The big headache is that the bolt is small and it breaks off into aluminum. There is nothing sticking up to get vise grips on. Trying to drill the bolt out without going out of the bolt and eating into the aluminum is the trick. I've gotten to the point at my shop here (after breaking off that lower bolt on 2 different cars) that i dont even want to change thermostats on a Vulcan engine again. You cant just use the other 2 bolts as it wont seal the thermo housing. Those bolts should have been thicker direct from the factory,they are just too scrawny.. The older the car...the more likely the problem.

• Follow the large top radiator hose to the engine block. it connects to a little dome-shaped fitting held on by three bolts. The thermostat is under it. be sure to replace the gasket (after completely removing the old gasket) when you replace the thermostat.

3.0 Duratec, 24 valve DOHC engine:

If you have the 24 valve DOHC engine, the thermostat is on the other side (passenger) at the bottom front of the engine, accessible from underneath. It has 2 10 mm bolts securing the housing and a hose run to it

This should be pretty much the same for most cars. Follow the upper radiator hose from the radiator to the engine. Where the hose meets the engine is where your thermostat is. Just make sure you put the new one in the correct way. If you put it in backwards it will not function correctly and you could overheat your engine. You should also make sure you need it. You car is known for heating issues. If the engine temp does not come up to regular operating temps, than your thermostat is stuck open and needs replaced. If the temp on the engine does come up to normal, than there are several potential issues. For your car, the most likely issues for the heater are: cooling system needs flushed and back flushed as well as the heater core. Or the flap that blends the heat (inside dash) is warped and letting cold air in. Or the heater core is bad. I have heard of one other possibility, but I do not know much about it, and it has to do with a vacuum line that controls the heat mixer being broke, disconnected or plugged.

Hope this helps.

It is located under the thermostat housing at the rear of the engine which is on the driver's side of the vehicle. Follow the top radiator hose back to the engine, and there is where the t-stat housing is located. If you have a 3.0 engine, it is held on with three 10mm bolts. If it is a 3.8 liter, it is held with two 10mm bolts.

Follow the top radiator hose back to the engine. There is where the t-stat housing is. Remove the hose, remove the housing, remove the old t-stat, clean gasket surfaces install the t-stat into the housing with the spring side sticking out toward the engine, use spray adhesive to attach the gasket(DO NOT USE RTV), reinstall everything and be careful to evenly tighten the housing bolts until they are snug(DO NOT RAUNCH HARD ON THE BOLTS). Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mix of coolant and water, and burp the system.

Should be located in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose

Drain about 1 gallon of coolant from the radiator

Remove this housing

Note how thermostat is installed in housing

Clean both surfaces

Replace thermostat and gasket

Replace housing

Re-fill coolant slowly to prevent an air lock

Start engine and look for leaks

Run engine to normal operating temperature with heater on

Re-check coolant level

First, go to a parts supplier and buy the thermostat and gasket that is appropriate for your car. You will also need coolant to replace what you will loose when you disconnect the hose.

Drain the engine cooling system so that the engine coolant level is below the water thermostat. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the water hose connection. Remove the three water inlet connection retaining bolts Remove the water hose connection. Remove the gasket and water thermostat from the water hose connection. Install the water thermostat, gasket and water hose connection. Install and alternately tighten the retaining bolts. Connect the upper radiator hose to the water hose connection Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of the proper anti-freeze and water. Start the engine and check all hoses and connections for leaks. Allow the engine to warm up so that the water thermostat opens Stop the engine. Top off the coolant overflow reservoir as required to maintain minimum cold fill level.

Should be located in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose

Drain about 1 gallon of coolant from the radiator

Remove this housing

note how thermostat is installed

Clean both surfaces

Replace thermostat and gasket

Replace housing

Re-fill coolant slowly to prevent an air lock

Start engine and look for leaks

Run engine to normal operating temperature with heater on

Re-check coolant level

On almost all cars, the thermostat is located where the top radiator hose connects to the motor. There should be a housing there held on with 2 or 3 nuts or bolts.

Follow the upper radiator hose to where it meets the engine. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the gooseneck in place. Remove the housing. Pull out the old T-stat. Note the location of the "jiggle pin". Replace with new T-stat in same position. Apply RTV sealer to the surfaces and replace the housing and bolts.

Copy & Paste the link below. Good luck. Easy to do.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0b/f3/fe/0900823d800bf3fe.jsp

In order to find the thermostat look at the top radiator hose follow it back toward the engine, you will a metal housing with about 2 or 3 bolts, unloose these bolts and replace the thermostat.

On the OHV Engine (Vulcan Engine) follow top radiator hose from radiator to engine. Disconnect top radiator hose, remove the three bolts, pull off thermostat housing and remove thermostat. OHC Engine, drain radiator until the coolant level is below the lower coolant level on the engine. Raise vehicle support it with jack stands. Disconnnect the lower radiator hose from the coolant inlet housing, remove the two inlet housing bolts and the housing. Then remove the thermostat and the O ring from the thermostat housing.

The thermostat is located inside the water neck on the drivers side of the engine. You will see a large hose going to the top of the radiator and to the water neck. You will need both the thermostat and gasket before you start, I would also recomment some RTV sealant, and two new hose clamps and about a half gallon of coolant mixture. Start by draining about one gallon of coolant from the radiator, via the valve located on the drivers side bottom of the radiator in to a bucket. Next remove the large Hose from the water neck and radiator. Next remove the two or three bolts that hold down the water neck, and gently pry it loose from the intake manifold. The thermostat may come out with it or may stay in the manifold. Remove the thermostat. Clean both the intake and water neck well, removing any old gasket material, oxidation or sealant. Next install the thermostat, some lock into the water neck by a quarter turn method, some you will find handy to RTV in with a small amount spread evenly around the edge between the thermostat and water neck recess for the thermostat. Be certain to orient the thermostat the correct way, the valve end goes away from the engine, and the small tower that retains the spring goes towards the engine. Install the new gasket with a small amount of RTV to hold it onto the water neck, then a small amount to seal between the gasket and manifold. Install the water neck with the original bolts, and tighten snugly, but don't over torque them. Next replace the hose clamps and if the hose is in good shape, re-install it. If the hose is not in good shape replace it as well. Next put the coolant you drained in step one back into the radiator through it's fill neck. Use the spare coolant mixture to top off the system. With the Radiator cap removed, have an assistant start the engine, and run with the heater set to maximum heat, until the car is at normal opperating temperature. Have your assistant rev the engine and hold it at about 3000 RPM. This will cause the water pump to pull the maximum flow of coolant into the engine to purge any air bubbles that remain. Tap up the coolant and replace the cap. Fill the overflow bottle almost to the top of the bottle, this will allow the engine to pull any necessary coolant into the system as the engine cools down over the next couple of days. Keep an eye open for leaks and watch the temperature gauge over the next few days, any rapid spikes and drops in temperature while driving, indicate an air bubble. These cars are well known for air bubbles, and if you have one, you will have to go through the purge steps again until things normalize out, elsewise you could warp a head or crack a head.

http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1e/bl207e.htm

Depending on the motor 3.8 or 3.0, it will be located within the aluminum piece (housing) that is connected to the upper radiator hose (large rubber hose about 2" in diameter). If you are changing the thermostat ($6), you will need a new gasket ($2) and some gasket sealer ($3). I hope this makes sense and helps you.

Should be located in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose Drain about 1 gallon of coolant from the radiator

Remove this housing

Make note how thermostat is installed

Clean both surfaces

Replace thermostat and gasket

Re-install housing

Re-fill coolant slowly to prevent an airlock

Start engine and look for leaks

Run engine to normal operating temperature with heater on

Re-check coolant level

Should be located in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose Drain about 1 gallon of coolant from the radiator Remove this housing Make note how thermostat is installed Clean both surfaces Replace thermostat and gasket Re-install housing Re-fill coolant slowly to prevent an air lock Start engine and look for leaks Run engine to normal operating temperature with heater on Re-check coolant level
Look at the driver's side of the engine, top. It's a metalic housing with 3 bolts on it. It's attached to your upper radiator hose where it meets the engine.
follolw the top radiator hose to the connection p[oint on the motor, remove that housing,, its under that
Answer There is a top hose and a bottom hose comming out of the radiator. The coolant thermostat wheel be located at where the top hose meets the engine. Here there will be a housing that the hose goes into that is attached to the engine with two bolts. Remove the hose and then unbolt the housing. There you will see the thermostat. Be sure to remove all the old gasket material first before installing a new one. You will proabably have to remove a air box or something to be able to access the housing, but it usually not that difficult. Be sure to drian the coolant first. Good luck.
Follow the top radiator hose down to the water outlet.It is in there. I hope this helps you. Mark

If the thermostat is broken in the closed position the engine would overheat rapidly. If it was broken in the open position the engine cooling system would not reach normal operating temperature and the heater would produce only warm air.

Take the thermostat out and put it in a pan of water on the stove. When the water gets to around 200 deg F, the thermostat should open. If it doesn't it needs replaced. Observe carefully that you have not installed the thermostat upsidedown. Spring-side to the engine

Comment: if you have it out, don't bother with the testing except for curiosity - just replace it for the extra $10 or less.

What to look for:

• If the vehicle has a radiator cap - run the engine with the cap off and watch for coolant flowing past the opening. This is a good thing - the thermostat if fine

  CAUTION If the radiator is filled to the top with coolant and the engine is run without the radiator cap in place, the coolant will expand and spill over as the engine warms up. Be ready to put the radiator cap back on.

• Feel the top of the radiator hose to confirm that the coolant is warming up. If the engine is overheating, but the top hose is still cool to the touch, the thermostat is stuck closed and must be replaced.

1. Drain enough coolant (into a clean container) to get below the level of the thermostat housing
2. Remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing. See TIP below
3. Remove the mounting bolts and remove the thermostat housing.
4. CLEAN BOTH SURFACES of ALL gasket material! Any gasket left behind will likely cause a leak.

   NOTES:

   * Compare the size of the thermostat to the old one - make sure the new one matches up

   * Ensure the thermostat fits into the groove in the block or outlet housing.

   * The spring side faces the block - If the thermostat is installed backwards, the engine will overheat

5. Install the gasket - DO NOT USE RTV sealant

   NOTE - When a paper gasket is used and the recess is in the thermostat housing, it is a good practice to position the thermostat into the recess and glue the gasket to hold it in place. If it falls out of its groove during installation, the outlet housing can be cracked or a coolant leak will result. Before tightening the water outlet housing, try to rock it back and forth to be sure it is flush. Housings are often cracked during this step.

6. Reinstall the thermostat housing bolts - tighten evenly
7. Refill the cooling system and run the engine, or pressure test, to check for leaks.

Follow the top radiator hose back to the engine. There is where the t-stat housing is.

• Remove the hose,
• remove the housing,
• remove the old t-stat,
• clean gasket surfaces
• install the t-stat into the housing with the spring side sticking out toward the engine,
• use spray adhesive to attach the gasket (DO NOT USE RTV),
• reinstall hose(s)
• be careful to evenly tighten the housing bolts until they are snug -DO NOT TORQUE HARD ON THE BOLTS
• Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mix of coolant and water, and burp the system.

I had to take the air cleaner tube\hose off to give me more room.

Your radiator has two big hoses, one on the top and one on the bottom. The upper radiator hose connects to the thermostat housing. On my 1996 Windstar it's a pain to replace it because there are many components in the way.

For anyone working on a car's cooling system, you MUST check out the MUST-HAVE tool for dealing with those spring-type hose clamps!!

This tool has a pinching device on the end to securely grab the 'ears' on the hose clamp - squeeze the handle to open the clamp, and then automatically lock it open.

The next awesome feature of this tool: the clamping action is on the end of a cable - you work it down to the clamp buried down underneath, or directly next to some part of the engine - minimal clearance required.

Sears makes one - check it out at a local store and linked below.

I don't know if this will help, but I am currently replacing the thermostat on my 2000 Windstar, and it is located where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine block.

You have to remove the two screws that hold the housing, and there it is.

I have found this to be true with a number of vehicles I have worked on.

Top right side of the engine.

Follow the larger sized radiator hose to it.

It is at the lower end of the top radiator hose within the water outlet on the engine.

Just below the throttle body where the Rad hose enters the block

Follow the upper radiator hose to the engine. The hose will be connected to the thermostat housing cover. It is very difficult to see due to the location. If you want to get a good look at it, remove the air induction hose in-between the throttle body and the air clean housing.

Other than the upper radiator hose and the 2 mountings screws, nothing else is needed to be removed to install a thermostat on a 1999-2003 Ford Windstar.

Steps:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. CAUTION

   Never remove the radiator cap when the engine is HOT. Serious personal injury can result.

2. Drain and recycle the engine coolant.
3. Remove the upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing.
4. Remove the thermostat housing from the engine.
5. Remove the thermostat from the housing with a counterclockwise twist.

Follow the upper radiator hose to the engine and that housing there contains the thermostat. It is kind of hard to get to but it depends on you.

Be sure to put the spring on the new thermostat TOWARDS the engine.

3 tools should be needed for this job..screwdriver (flat head), 8mm deepwell socket w/extensoin and maybe some pliers to rotate the radiator hose clamp away from 1 of the 2 bolts required to remove the t-stat housing.

• Step 1. remove the airbox assembly. just loosen the clamp with a screwdriver at the throttle body, a pull back the airbox assembly and unhook all the electrical connectors. under the throttle body you will see the radiator hose leading to the t-stat housing. it's a little tricky to get to, but should not be a problem if the hose clamp is not in the way of one of the bolts. if it is, just rotate the clamp by squeezing it with pliers. (that's the hard part) but hopefully it won't be in the way.
• step 2. remove the bolts with an 8mm deepwell socket. you'll need a deepwell cuz the bolt on the left is also used to hold a clip for the spark plug wire holder otherwise known as a "stay". REmove the plastic stay to get to the bolt. then remove the 2 bolts and pull the housing back with the hose still connected.
• step 3. remove t-stat and any gasket material so that both surfaces are clean.
• step 4. replace t-stat and gasket. use gasket sealer with the gasket that comes with the t-stat.. re-assemble everything and you are done.
• check for leaks after a test drive.

Answer

A bad thermostat won't give you any heat and or it will give you too much heat. You would be wise to change it. Usually there are two bolts that hold a thermostat in place. You need to remove these two bolts, take the old thermostat out and see how high the temperature setting on it is. Some cars have a temperature of 165 F while other cars go as high as 195 F. To be sure you are getting the right thermostat for your car you can always go to an Auto Parts store, give them the make and model for your car along with the year and they should be able to give you the right one for your car.

Good luck.

The easiest way to check the thermostat is to remove the radiator cap with the engine cold, start the engine, and let it warm up. When the coolant reaches the preset temp of the thermostat, the thermostat should open, which will allow hot water to enter the radiator.

You got those 3.8 (60,000-80,000 miles) Blues. Could be a thermostat. Are you going through coolant? If so, the technician is probably right. The 3.8 motor wants head gaskets every 70,000 miles or so. Plan on machining the head flat again too. If you are not going through coolant, it would sound more like a thermostat or possible blockage in the system.

Check the condition of the radiator, the water pump, the thermostat, and the pressure cap. I had a similar problem with my 1991 Chevy Cavalier (4 cyl, 2.2L). When all is well it normally runs about 180-200 degrees F (the electric fan clicks on at about 200 and shuts off at 180, fan runs continuously w/AC on). Because I neglected to flush the system for about 3 years, the radiator clogged and the water pump was on the way out (all but three of the blades had eroded away). The car was running 230 degrees (about 3/4 of the way up the gauge). Even after the water pump was replaced, it still ran hot even though the T-stat and cap were ok and there was plenty of coolant. I flushed out the system and replaced the radiator. This cured the problem instantly. Running temp fell from 230F to 180F (about 1/4 of the way up the temp gauge on my car). I don't know many particular problems that occur with '90 Cougars, but these are several generic problems that cause overheating. Check the T-stat by removing it and boiling it in water on the stove. If it is good you will see it open as the water temp in the pan increases. While the t-stat is out of the engine, start it and run it for the length of time it takes for it to overheat. If the t-stat is the problem, with it removed, the temp gauge won't even lift off the peg. (Don't run the engine without a thermostat longer than it takes to verify the problem). Also check water flow through the system by warming up the engine with the cap off and looking into the radiator fill pipe. With the engine at running temp, there should be a strong water flow out of the tubes (water turbulence for a vertical radiator). Also make sure the fan works.

Bear in mind that any air (as well as gunk) trapped in the coolant lines will cause overheating, particularly higher up around the head gasket. This overheating can definitely cause warping and result in a blown gasket. This is especially common in cars with aluminum head gaskets. (I don't know how the Cougar was designed.) Always "burp" your coolant system after flushing.