Japan . japan is the 62nd biggest country. Ireland is the 119th biggest country.

disconect battery & pull fuse that controls air bag & wait 15 minutes (this will disable the airbag

There are two torx screws on the back of the steering wheel, turn your wheel to access them & remove. Pull off horn/airbag,easy does it. Disconect the wires on back & place in safe place

Remove nut holding on wheel with 13/16 socket. Pull wheel off with steerig wheel pulller.

Remove snap ring. Move Coil pack out of way.

Remove small metal band that holds on the metal star looking thing. You will need to use a steering wheel lock plate removal tool.

Now you have access to switch. remove a few torx bolts & it will be loose. Disconect the harness & pull through.

The marker lights and brake lights run on two different circuits, and usually light up two different filaments on the bulb. If both tail lights are out, either a fuse is blown, a wire is compromised, or both marker light filaments on the bulbs are broken.

Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: White/Green

Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Red

Car Radio Ground Wire: Black

Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Black

Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Red

Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: N/A

Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A

Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A

Front Speakers Size: N/A

Front Speakers Location: N/A

Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green/Black

Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Green

Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green/Yellow

Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Red

Rear Speakers Size: N/A

Rear Speakers Location: N/A

Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/White

Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Black

Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink

Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Yellow

Your owner's manual would answer both these questions, if you had one. You like lots of other people seem to have lost your owner's manual. Amazing! The SRS light indicates there is a problem with the Air Bag system. This is not a DIY repair. Serious injury can occur if you are not aware of the dangers. Take it to a dealer for this repair. The Maintenance Required light is reset with the Odometer reset button. Turn ignition key off, hold ODO Reset button in while turning the ignition switch to the on position, do not start. The Maint Req light will rest after 10 seconds. This light is telling you that there is maintenance required, and if you had an owner's manual you could look and see what maintenance item needs looking into. Get an owner's manual. Just tryed this. I used a paper clip.http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showpost.php?p=536559&postcount=5

Your dealer should have provided you this on a card.

You need to remove the clock out of the dash by taking a screwdriver or pallet knife to the base of the clock, be careful because you can scratch the plastic. Once removed you'll notice two wire harnesses plugged into the back of it, one for the hazard switch the other for the clock. Remove both plugs and the unit should come free. On the back of the clock you will see the the base of the bulb which either grey or white take a screwdriver to it and turn it in the direction shown in the plastic to unlock. The bulb should then come out. Insert new bulb and make sure it's locked in place, replace plugs and then push the clock unit back into the dash. It should click into place.

1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position.

2. Press the select/reset knob a couple of times until the engine oil life

indicator is showing.

3. Press the select/reset knob for about 10 secs. The engine oil

life and the maintenance item code will blink.

4. Press the select/reset knob for another 5 secs.

The maintenance item code will go away and the engine oil life reading

will reset to 100. Same for Honda Accord 2009

I just had to do this for my 2001 Odyssey, and I'd bet it's a similar process. First, open the rear hatch and remove the two black nuts at the far left and right of the top of the door. To access the other two nuts you need to pry the interior trim from the rear window. I was able to pry it off with my bare hands and didn't break any of the plastic clips (even though it's freezing here right now). The remaining nuts should now be exposed; remove them, and the spoiler is now free of the hatch. The last step is a minor one... You just need to unclip the wire for the third brake light from the left side of the hatch. Good luck!

'It's a Wonderful Life' (1946).

* Remove the ashtray and ashtray holder * Remove the radio and mounting plate screws and lower the radio and unplug the electrical connector and antenna lead then push the radio out of the dashboard

If this happened all at once, check the vacuum lines. A cracked or broken line will cause high or rough idle.

well the question is a bit vague but I'll try. Assuming that the battery isn't dead and the starter is cranking fine my first thought would be your fuel pump is shot Chevy fuel pumps are notorious for failure even with low miles I had to replace my brothers fuel pump on his 96 Chevy and it only had 58,000 miles on it. But to know for sure wether the pump is bad or not you will have to do a fuel pressure test. You can test the fuel pressure by getting a fuel pressure gauge and attaching it to the test port on the fuel rail and watching the gauge as somebody tries to crank it over if the gauge reads beetween 40 and 60 PSI then the pump is good if not then replace the pump most likely if pump is bad you will get a reading of 0 to 5 PSI. Hopefully this helps.

REMOVE FUSE COVER ASHTRAY AND LITER AND THEN REMOVE TWO SCREWS ONE THE TOP OF THE PANEL HOUSEING AND TWO SCREWS ON THE UNDERNEATH INSIDE IF THE ASH TRAY AND IF INSPECTED FROM UNDERNEATH PRESS BACK THE TABS AND STEREO IS OUT

to add to previous answer after removing the top fuse panel and removing screws you have to remove the cup holder and there should be a couple of extra screws. the cup holder is a pain to remove but with a little persistence it can be done.

Pop off fuse cover. Remove two outer screws: these are the top two of four screws holding the top of the wrapping middle front fascia on, to which the radio assembly is attached. Next remove the little drawer, cigarrette lighter, and ashtray. Next, some models have a cupholder and others have simply a fascia where the cupholder *should* be. The fascia can be removed by pulling straight outwards with some force (careful not to damage your interior surfaces). Then remove the two screws on either side of the cupholder/fascia. After that is removed you finally have access to the two lower screws holding the bottom of the wrapping middle front fascia on (these are just behind and above the screws for the cupholder/fascia). Once these are loose and the two plastic clips nearby are squished inwards the whole wrap-around fascia + radio assembly can be removed together. Careful on the edges as the channels for the vents come with this part & these vehicles are now old enough that the foam/glue surrounding these vents can easily tear/break off.

Found this site http://tarago.blogspot.com/ that contains lots of pictures and a step by step guide. Really helpful for me.

The code in the Glove box is just the serial number to the stereo, It is not the unlock code itself. Call a Honda dealer and give them this number. They should give you the code for free. They did for me.

If car still overheats after changing the thermostat the water pump the headgaskets and the radiator what else would cause it to overheat?

From what you describe it sounds like you might have an air lock in your cooling system. I would recommend that you bleed any and all air out of the cooling system. The bleeder valve is located on top of the engine. Once engine starts to overheat or when you can hear bubbling back into the overflow bottle, turn car off and open bleeder valve. If you see bubbling you have air in your system. Bleed the system a couple of times and see if this helps.

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if it still overheats after that like my BMW 318 does you could be looking at a crack in the engine as i think that's my next option

but also check or renew your heater matrix and temp sensors and use a rad leak in your rad even though its a new one as the leak could be in the engine so might seal it

The Radio has several buttons with numbers on them. These number can be used to set a pre-set number for the station you want. Dial the station you want to set, press and hold the pre-set number about 3 seconds. You will hear a beep, indicating the selection has been set. This can be done for each band. Press the Band to change to another band, then select your pre-set.

Goto Autozone, or wherever and buy a Haynes manual for the car for something like $20. It is not a hard job, but you need to do it right or they will seize. Good luck.

First, remove the front axle bolt with the wheel on the ground, then jack it up, remove the tire. Remove brake caliper, brake pads, tie rod ends, upper and lower balljoint ( suggest to use a BFH to remove the balljoints). Remove the whole arms. Lay the arms on the 2 wooden block, remove 4 (12mm bolts) from the back of the rotor. Slightly insert the bolts back to the tap holes and hit 4 bolts to separate the rotor from the hub housing. Once the rotor is separated, the hub contain bearing. Bearing must be pressed out using a press. Suggest to use NSK bearing cost around $50/each. If you don't have a press, take to the shop, labor around $20-$40 each bearing to press in/ out. Once the bearing is pressed it, install the rotor back to the hub, tighten the (4) 12 mm bolts and the rest is just the reversal.

If your 1998 VW Beetle has a radio preset button that will not push anymore, you can sometimes fix it by prying the button out of the radio with a butter knife. Then, clean behind the button and clean the button itself. Pop the button back into the radio.

The 4 cylinder will get 24 city, 34 highway, and 28 combined.

The V6 will get 21 city, 34 highway, and 25 combined.

I have found that most Accords will beat this mileage if driven correctly.

From the inside of the engine bay, looking down on the headlight that needs the bulb, look at the back of the headlight, it should have a plastic ring where the bulb is held in place inside the headlight, turn this ring carefully to loosen it, then gently pull out the bulb socket and wiring connector, unsnap the plastic retaining clip from the wiring socket, and out comes the bulb.

The ODBII connector is located on the passenger side of the center console, just beyond the console cover. You do not need to remove anything to plug in your diagnostic tool.

For a visual idea area of where it is, see image;

http://www.fixexpert.com/wiki/odb2.php?page=odb2&id=19758

A real picture of the connector (1 picture is worth a 1000 words)

http://fixexpert.com/obd2/data/honda/crv/1999.jpg If you wish to look up others OBDII port locations for other vehicles try the main link at: http://www.fixexpert.com/wiki/OBD-2+Location Good Luck.