Above the accelerator pedal. It is identified by the blue socket to which the wiring system plugs into. On our I had to lay down on the drivers floor mat to see it.
Temperatures are fairly constant year round in the Chiapas Highlands, with variation depending on elevation. The north is dry with little rainfall, but the southern part of the state is more humid. The average temperature is 20°c (68°f), but temperatures may reach as high as 40°c (104°f) and as low as 0°c (32°f).
try the driver side fender or the fuse panel under the hood
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The 2001 Accord has 3 fuse boxes. The interior boxes are located on the driver's and pasenger side of the dashboard. The underhood box is on the right(passenger) firewall. The fuse you want is a 20A located in the #5 position in the underhood box. There are spare fuses located in the #9 and 10 position that you can substitue. All the covers are labeled(the one you want is labeled "Stop". Use a good light source. Press the two clips to free the cover on the underhood box. Check the bulbs - a transient volatage spike(intermittent short) can blow all of them at once without blowing the fuse. Jim
Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: White/Green
Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Red
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Black
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Red
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Front Speakers Size: N/A
Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green/Black
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green/Yellow
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Red
Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/White
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Black
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Yellow
im posting this because when i looked for help nobody was able to help, so here it goes. to begin with im not sure if this is for an ignition switch, or the tumbler ignition piece, but i had to replace the ignition part as some a-hole had stolen my car and had used a screwdriver most likely to bust the ignition so you can now start it with anything.
on to the fix! i took it to a mechanic, he said it would be 330 to fix. 195 for the part, and labor was the rest. i said screw that, and went to a Honda aftermarket parts dealer in portland, or (autoadventure), and bought one for $165. the guys there are awesome by the way. so from there i was going to take it back to the mechanic for straight labor, but the guys said i could do it. so i did.
its easy, all you need is a screwdriver, a hammer, and a flat head screw driver. you need the screw driver to take off the plastic covering surrounding the ignition, its the piece between the steering wheel and the dash. theres some recessed screws you want to be sure to get or you will break the thing. i think there is a total of 6 or so you need to get. then there are plastic tabs you need to gently undo to get it apart (like those small plastic Easter eggs kinda). from there you can see the ignition assembly in plain sight. from there you notice that there are only 2 screws holding the thing to the steering column.
i was confused at first because it looks like there are 2 rivets holding it in place, but in fact they are screws whose heads have been shaved off in factory. all you need to do is take your hammer and flat head screwdriver, and wedge the screwdriver head in between the lip of the piece and the screw, and bang it towards the counterclockwise direction. this takes some time, and if at first you are scared, don't be. you don't care about that part anyways. you should have already gotten the replacement ignition (tumbler, key hole, and electronics in one solid piece) so you don't need that anyways. after you bang on it for a while, they should give a little bit, so you can basically unscrew them with your fingers. from there it is a quick switch. unplug the electronics from the unit, and plug in the new one, bolt it on and replace the covering and you are golden, and are $200 ahead of the neck punk mechanic who tries to rip you off. hope this helps!
You may not even need to get the complete tumbler and key hole part. Your only problem may be just the ignition wire that connects to the back of the tumbler and is relatively easy to replace. This part may go for about 80$ . I would recommend that you try to replace this part first because it may save you from the trouble of replacing the whole ignition unit which costs about $250(this is if your car starts but does not stay turned on or if your car's power turns off when you are driving). I went through the trouble of taking the whole ignition unit off but just found that it was the ignition wire on my 90 Honda Accord. And if your actual key insertion cylinder is damaged, where you put your key in and turn the car on, then I found that most auto-parts stores Like Kragans or AutoZone have replacement key cylinders with a new set of keys for about $30. Don't replace the tumbler body if you don't have to because again, they are about $250. The Key cylinder should slip out of the body by pushing a little button down that is on the side while the key is turned at the I position. That's all I got for now
Your owner's manual would answer both these questions, if you had one. You like lots of other people seem to have lost your owner's manual. Amazing! The SRS light indicates there is a problem with the Air Bag system. This is not a DIY repair. Serious injury can occur if you are not aware of the dangers. Take it to a dealer for this repair. The Maintenance Required light is reset with the Odometer reset button. Turn ignition key off, hold ODO Reset button in while turning the ignition switch to the on position, do not start. The Maint Req light will rest after 10 seconds. This light is telling you that there is maintenance required, and if you had an owner's manual you could look and see what maintenance item needs looking into. Get an owner's manual. Just tryed this. I used a paper clip.http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showpost.php?p=536559&postcount=5
You will need to go to a car audio store and buy a connector to tie into your car's wiring harness, and, the question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.
You need to remove the clock out of the dash by taking a screwdriver or pallet knife to the base of the clock, be careful because you can scratch the plastic. Once removed you'll notice two wire harnesses plugged into the back of it, one for the hazard switch the other for the clock. Remove both plugs and the unit should come free. On the back of the clock you will see the the base of the bulb which either grey or white take a screwdriver to it and turn it in the direction shown in the plastic to unlock. The bulb should then come out. Insert new bulb and make sure it's locked in place, replace plugs and then push the clock unit back into the dash. It should click into place.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position.
2. Press the select/reset knob a couple of times until the engine oil life
indicator is showing.
3. Press the select/reset knob for about 10 secs. The engine oil
life and the maintenance item code will blink.
4. Press the select/reset knob for another 5 secs.
The maintenance item code will go away and the engine oil life reading
will reset to 100. Same for Honda Accord 2009
You should be able to pop it off by inserting a small screwdriver along side the plastic lens and just pop it off, or a thin pocket knife
Try using a screwdriver to release the 2 clips in the front holding the unit (Not just the lenses) into the holder that's attached to the headliner. It's a 2 piece unit.
You're radio is not working because the circuit board may be the problem. If you have less than 105 k miles on you're Honda accord then I would suggest that you take it in to get the circuit board replaced on you're radio.
A photographic light box allows a photographer to capture an image clearer and more crisp. It also gives a solid color backdrop.
* Remove the ashtray and ashtray holder * Remove the radio and mounting plate screws and lower the radio and unplug the electrical connector and antenna lead then push the radio out of the dashboard
Neutral switch? If you mean the neutral-safety switch, it's a switch that opens (prevents current from flowing) when your car is not in park or neutral. Without this switch, you would be able to turn the key and actuate the starter when your transmission is in reverse, drive and low range.
Try looking on the back of the fuse box cover, there is often a diagram there. If not it should be in the owner's manual.
look for the wires, follow them to where they go on the engine. get a 5/8 spark plug wrench, turn to the left. installation is reverse of removal. be careful to make sure the you do not cross thread the new plugs. don't over tighten.
In the cooler weather we are having, they will probably take longer to come on.
The side effect though has been the temperature guage spiking big time. Only spikes during city traffic, not highway. Oil is fine, radiator fluid is fine. Just those stupid fans don't ever fire up.
Start by moving the power steering reservoir out of the way. Disconnect the battery and then remove the wires from the alternator. Take the tension out of the tensioning pulley and remove the belt from the alternator. Remove the bolts from alternator, you may have to take the top mounting bracket off of the engine. The hardest part I found was to get the alternator out after everything was unbolted. My brother-in-law the mechanic came over and advised me to put a floor jack under the motor (use a block of wood to protect the oil pan etc.). Remove the bolt in the engine mount and raise the engine with the floor jack until there is space to bring the alternator out of its hiding place. Bring it straight out from the front of the engine (front being the passenger side of the car. It might be easier to raise the engine and then take out the alternator, but I didn't have the opportunity to try that. But it's definitely easier to put the replacement in with the engine still raised. I spent all day trying to figure it out, after my brother-in-law helped me with the engine jacking, it took about 20 minutes to complete the job.
I've got the V6 and I didn't need to lift the engine, just remove the radiator fan directly in front of the alternator. The fan has 2 screw bolts(10mm) on top, 1 on bottom(which I could just manage to access from the top with a deep socket), unplug the wires and you can lift it out of the way. This gives you enough clearance to remove the alternator (be careful not to ding your radiator though). Also, I didn't relized that the tensioner pulley was a spring-loaded type...I've never seen one till now. Just put a wrench on the middle of the pulley and you can adjust it to move the alternater back in place. Another tip, since you're replacing the alternator, might as well replace the belt too. Good luck. 2hours - not hard, just hard to get to till you figure out what items you need to move out of the way.
If this is the LX or EX (4 cylinder)
1) Disconnect the battery cable (*).
2) Remove the green connector on the back of the alternator and the single wire (to help ensure you don't loose the nut, screw it back on the terminal).
3) Loosen the power steering pump - slip the belt off and then push the pump up out of the way. You do not need to remove the pump.
4) Remove the lower alternator bolt.
5) Loosen the upper alternator bolt.
6) Remove the tension bolt.
7) Slip the belt off the alternator pulley.
8) Remove the upper alternator bolt.
9) Grab hold of the alternator pull it out. You may need to move it up and down and wiggle it slightly to get it out.
Installation is in the reverse order. Be sure to set the proper belt tension on the alternator and power steering pump. Check the belt tension the next time you fill up for gas and adjust if needed.
Total time to R&R the alternator should be under an hour.
Looking at the alternator with the pulley facing you, the right mounting hole (where the large upper alternator bolt slips into) is a bushing. Carefully take some channel lock pliers and push it in so it's flush. This will help make installing it easier. As you tighten the upper and lower bolts, it will slide this bushing into proper position.
(*) = If your radio has a security code, be sure you know what it is before you pull the battery cables! If you have access to a battery charger, it may not be a bad time to re-charge the battery while you are R&R'ing the alternator. I would suggest that if you do elect to recharge the battery to take the battery out of the car.
Email me if you have questions; email@example.com
Goto Autozone, or wherever and buy a Haynes manual for the car for something like $20. It is not a hard job, but you need to do it right or they will seize. Good luck.
First, remove the front axle bolt with the wheel on the ground, then jack it up, remove the tire. Remove brake caliper, brake pads, tie rod ends, upper and lower balljoint ( suggest to use a BFH to remove the balljoints). Remove the whole arms. Lay the arms on the 2 wooden block, remove 4 (12mm bolts) from the back of the rotor. Slightly insert the bolts back to the tap holes and hit 4 bolts to separate the rotor from the hub housing. Once the rotor is separated, the hub contain bearing. Bearing must be pressed out using a press. Suggest to use NSK bearing cost around $50/each. If you don't have a press, take to the shop, labor around $20-$40 each bearing to press in/ out. Once the bearing is pressed it, install the rotor back to the hub, tighten the (4) 12 mm bolts and the rest is just the reversal.
Standing in front of the engine facing the windscreen on to of the engine is the Throttle body. You may have to remove some covers to get sight of it. The temperature sensor is in a upright position on the right hand side of the throttle body. It is screwed directly into the intake manifold.
I'm not positive, but you might take a look at the threads protruding from the nut to see if it is reverse threaded. I know a lot of pinion gears have a reverse thread on them. This would mean you would turn your wrench clockwise to loosen the nut. If you can't see the thread, check with your parts supplier to see if it is a reverse thread.
The 4 cylinder will get 24 city, 34 highway, and 28 combined.
The V6 will get 21 city, 34 highway, and 25 combined.
I have found that most Accords will beat this mileage if driven correctly.
you could buy a service and repair manual at any autoparts store. the best book out there i believe that is called hayne's service and repair manual it gives you the best step by step instructions on how to repair any vehicle.