Honda Accord LX

If your Honda 450 ES Foreman is not shifting into reverse, there could be several potential causes. Here are some common issues and troubleshooting steps:

Common Causes

1. **Electrical Issues**: The Electric Shift (ES) system relies on electrical components to shift gears. Issues with wiring, switches, or the battery could prevent shifting.

2. **Shift Motor or Angle Sensor**: The shift motor or angle sensor might be faulty or out of adjustment.

3. **Mechanical Issues**: There could be a mechanical problem within the transmission or gear selector mechanism.

4. **Control Module**: The ES control module could be malfunctioning.

Troubleshooting Steps

1. **Check Battery and Connections**: Ensure the battery is fully charged and the connections are clean and secure. Low battery voltage can affect the ES system's performance.

2. **Inspect Wiring and Fuses**: Check all wiring and fuses related to the ES system for any signs of damage or corrosion.

3. **Test Shift Buttons**: Ensure the shift buttons are functioning properly. Sometimes, the buttons themselves can wear out or become faulty.

4. **Examine Shift Motor**: The shift motor can sometimes fail. Listen for any unusual noises when attempting to shift and check for proper operation.

5. **Angle Sensor Check**: The angle sensor tells the control module the position of the gears. If it’s malfunctioning, it might prevent shifting into reverse.

6. **Control Module Reset**: Try resetting the ES control module by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and then reconnecting it.

7. **Manual Override**: Some models have a manual shift lever or override option. Consult your owner's manual for instructions on manually shifting to diagnose if the problem is with the ES system.

Professional Help

If the above steps do not resolve the issue, it might be necessary to take the ATV to a qualified mechanic. They can perform more detailed diagnostics and repairs, which may involve replacing faulty components within the ES system or addressing deeper mechanical issues within the transmission.

Preventative Maintenance

Regular maintenance of the ES system and transmission, including keeping electrical connections clean and ensuring the battery is in good condition, can help prevent such issues in the future.

While the climate in the US is diverse and supports various industries, the country's prosperity is more attributable to factors such as its abundant natural resources, technological advancements, infrastructure development, strong institutions, and entrepreneurial spirit. Climate alone is not the sole reason for the US's prosperity.

The best climate is subjective, but areas like California, Hawaii, or parts of Australia are known for their pleasant climates with mild temperatures, low humidity, and plenty of sunshine. It ultimately depends on individual preferences for weather and environmental conditions.

To calculate the future value of an investment, we use the formula: FV = P*(1 + r)^n, where FV is the future value, P is the principal amount (initial investment), r is the annual interest rate (as a decimal), and n is the number of years the money is invested for. Plugging in the values, we get FV = 5000*(1 + 0.10)^10. Calculate the expression to find the future value of the investment after 10 years with annual compounding.

The 1999 Honda Accord LX V6 is designed to use regular unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 87. It is recommended to avoid using higher octane fuels unless specified by the manufacturer, as they may not provide any additional benefits.

When the maintenance required light on a 1997 Honda Accord changes from green to yellow to red, it indicates that the car is due for scheduled maintenance. The color change does not necessarily indicate the severity of the maintenance needed, but it is important to address it promptly to ensure the car continues to run smoothly. Regular maintenance can help prevent major issues in the long run.

A high idle may be caused by issues with the air intake system, such as a vacuum leak or a faulty idle control valve. It could also be due to a dirty throttle body or a malfunctioning mass air flow sensor. I recommend having a mechanic inspect the vehicle to diagnose and address the issue.

The small hole you are referring to is likely a weep hole designed to allow coolant or other fluids to escape in case of a leak in the water pump seal, indicating a failing water pump. It is important to address this issue promptly to prevent overheating and potential engine damage. A replacement water pump, along with a new gasket and coolant, should resolve the leak.

The issue could be due to a variety of factors such as a weak battery, a faulty fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, or issues with the ignition system. The engine may not necessarily be shot, but it should be inspected by a mechanic to diagnose and repair the specific problem.

I originally asked this question but got the answer myself,by actually taking on the task myself,difficulty being a novice I would say,its about a 7 outta 10.Jack the car up and secure on jack stands with tires removed,use your club to secure the steering wheel so it does not move,remove both outer tie rod end,remove the 17mm and 14 mm bolts that hole the rack in place.Remove the plastic covering revealing the coupling,Use white out to mark the relation of the steering coupling to the pinion extention inside the car,then loosen the 10mm nut,the rack will fall out.twist and wiggle rack out.HINT: the rack is set in a tight place I removed the shock absorber fork,then turn the long pinion piece on the rack to shorten the rack on the drivers side,this makes the job easier.It took me an hour till i figured it out.Installation was more difficult,you need another person to line up the pinion extention to the steering coupling while its being installed and make sure the steering is bolted back on tightly to the pinion,I might have used words not professional but I guess you can pick up on what im talking about.Good luck to anyone who attempts this on there own...oh by the way mine was not a power rack and pinion.

You will need to remove the door panel first. In a '99 Bravada, there are a total of three screws to remove. First, remove the screw behind the door opening lever and remove the plastic cover that hides the internals of the door. Then, there are two screws hidden below the handle on the door (the handle below the locking tab/door opening lever). At this point, everything else is held in place with plastic clips and you will literally have to rip the panel from the car. Be careful so you don't break any of the clips if it can be avoided - it won't matter if you break one or two, however. Pull slowly and finesse the panel off and carefully set it aside.

Once you're into the door, you will see a black vinyl membrane that serves to block wind and dampen sound. It is held on with black silicone for the most part (you can replace that later on), however it runs under the speaker housing that is held in place with rivets. When I did this job, I just cut the membrane with scissors and patched it with duct tape when I was finished (I didn't feel like drilling out any more rivets than I had to). If you want to take the extra time to drill out the additional rivets, go for it.

At this point, you will need to remove the pane of glass and set it safely aside. It is not easy to get the glass out, but wiggle it enough and you can get it. It is held in solely by friction. There will be four rivets holding the motor in. You will have to drill these out to remove the unit. Be very careful at this stage, as there are sharp metal edges inside the door that can give you a nasty slice. I recommend a quality electric (not battery-powered) high-speed drill with carbide bits for this part of the job - or even an angle grinder if you happen to be skilled at using one in tight spaces. The rivets are NOT easy to remove, and you won't have a lot of room to work with. After the rivets are removed, you can slide the motor and regulator out. DO NOT drill out the spot welds holding the bottom rail of the mechanism to the door panel. This is permanent and should never be removed - just greased with a decent lithium or other automotive grease. The rest of the mechanism should slide right off the rail. Be sure and vacuum out any metal shavings from the bottom of the door.

Once you have the old parts out, just work backwards to put the new ones in. Because you drilled out the factory rivets, you'll have to find suitable nuts and bolts to mount the new motor (which should be no problem at all). This guide also applies to the Chevy Blazer, Chevy S-10, and GMC Jimmy for the same year, as they are identical vehicles in this respect.

Overall, this is about a 3 - 4 hour project (this is taking into account that it is enormously difficult). If you aren't up for it, take the vehicle to an auto glass place to have the work done.

As always, if you have any questions head to the library or auto parts store and pick up the service manual for your vehicle. It has detailed photos and step-by-step instructions. I prefer the Hayne's guides myself, but the choice is yours.

Above the accelerator pedal. It is identified by the blue socket to which the wiring system plugs into. On our I had to lay down on the drivers floor mat to see it.

Temperatures are fairly constant year round in the Chiapas Highlands, with variation depending on elevation. The north is dry with little rainfall, but the southern part of the state is more humid. The average temperature is 20°c (68°f), but temperatures may reach as high as 40°c (104°f) and as low as 0°c (32°f).

try the driver side fender or the fuse panel under the hood

1 Microsoft 2 Nokia 3 Toyota 4 Intel 5 Coca-Cola 6 Sony 7 IBM 8 General Electric 9 Nike 10 Citigroup

The 2001 Accord has 3 fuse boxes. The interior boxes are located on the driver's and pasenger side of the dashboard. The underhood box is on the right(passenger) firewall. The fuse you want is a 20A located in the #5 position in the underhood box. There are spare fuses located in the #9 and 10 position that you can substitue. All the covers are labeled(the one you want is labeled "Stop". Use a good light source. Press the two clips to free the cover on the underhood box. Check the bulbs - a transient volatage spike(intermittent short) can blow all of them at once without blowing the fuse. Jim

Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: White/Green

Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Red

Car Radio Ground Wire: Black

Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Black

Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Red

Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: N/A

Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A

Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A

Front Speakers Size: N/A

Front Speakers Location: N/A

Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green/Black

Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Green

Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green/Yellow

Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Red

Rear Speakers Size: N/A

Rear Speakers Location: N/A

Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/White

Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Black

Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink

Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Yellow

im posting this because when i looked for help nobody was able to help, so here it goes. to begin with im not sure if this is for an ignition switch, or the tumbler ignition piece, but i had to replace the ignition part as some a-hole had stolen my car and had used a screwdriver most likely to bust the ignition so you can now start it with anything.

on to the fix! i took it to a mechanic, he said it would be 330 to fix. 195 for the part, and labor was the rest. i said screw that, and went to a Honda aftermarket parts dealer in portland, or (autoadventure), and bought one for $165. the guys there are awesome by the way. so from there i was going to take it back to the mechanic for straight labor, but the guys said i could do it. so i did.

its easy, all you need is a screwdriver, a hammer, and a flat head screw driver. you need the screw driver to take off the plastic covering surrounding the ignition, its the piece between the steering wheel and the dash. theres some recessed screws you want to be sure to get or you will break the thing. i think there is a total of 6 or so you need to get. then there are plastic tabs you need to gently undo to get it apart (like those small plastic Easter eggs kinda). from there you can see the ignition assembly in plain sight. from there you notice that there are only 2 screws holding the thing to the steering column.

i was confused at first because it looks like there are 2 rivets holding it in place, but in fact they are screws whose heads have been shaved off in factory. all you need to do is take your hammer and flat head screwdriver, and wedge the screwdriver head in between the lip of the piece and the screw, and bang it towards the counterclockwise direction. this takes some time, and if at first you are scared, don't be. you don't care about that part anyways. you should have already gotten the replacement ignition (tumbler, key hole, and electronics in one solid piece) so you don't need that anyways. after you bang on it for a while, they should give a little bit, so you can basically unscrew them with your fingers. from there it is a quick switch. unplug the electronics from the unit, and plug in the new one, bolt it on and replace the covering and you are golden, and are $200 ahead of the neck punk mechanic who tries to rip you off. hope this helps!

You may not even need to get the complete tumbler and key hole part. Your only problem may be just the ignition wire that connects to the back of the tumbler and is relatively easy to replace. This part may go for about 80$ . I would recommend that you try to replace this part first because it may save you from the trouble of replacing the whole ignition unit which costs about $250(this is if your car starts but does not stay turned on or if your car's power turns off when you are driving). I went through the trouble of taking the whole ignition unit off but just found that it was the ignition wire on my 90 Honda Accord. And if your actual key insertion cylinder is damaged, where you put your key in and turn the car on, then I found that most auto-parts stores Like Kragans or AutoZone have replacement key cylinders with a new set of keys for about $30. Don't replace the tumbler body if you don't have to because again, they are about $250. The Key cylinder should slip out of the body by pushing a little button down that is on the side while the key is turned at the I position. That's all I got for now

Your owner's manual would answer both these questions, if you had one. You like lots of other people seem to have lost your owner's manual. Amazing! The SRS light indicates there is a problem with the Air Bag system. This is not a DIY repair. Serious injury can occur if you are not aware of the dangers. Take it to a dealer for this repair. The Maintenance Required light is reset with the Odometer reset button. Turn ignition key off, hold ODO Reset button in while turning the ignition switch to the on position, do not start. The Maint Req light will rest after 10 seconds. This light is telling you that there is maintenance required, and if you had an owner's manual you could look and see what maintenance item needs looking into. Get an owner's manual. Just tryed this. I used a paper clip.http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showpost.php?p=536559&postcount=5

You will need to go to a car audio store and buy a connector to tie into your car's wiring harness, and, the question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

You need to remove the clock out of the dash by taking a screwdriver or pallet knife to the base of the clock, be careful because you can scratch the plastic. Once removed you'll notice two wire harnesses plugged into the back of it, one for the hazard switch the other for the clock. Remove both plugs and the unit should come free. On the back of the clock you will see the the base of the bulb which either grey or white take a screwdriver to it and turn it in the direction shown in the plastic to unlock. The bulb should then come out. Insert new bulb and make sure it's locked in place, replace plugs and then push the clock unit back into the dash. It should click into place.

1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position.

2. Press the select/reset knob a couple of times until the engine oil life

indicator is showing.

3. Press the select/reset knob for about 10 secs. The engine oil

life and the maintenance item code will blink.

4. Press the select/reset knob for another 5 secs.

The maintenance item code will go away and the engine oil life reading

will reset to 100. Same for Honda Accord 2009

You should be able to pop it off by inserting a small screwdriver along side the plastic lens and just pop it off, or a thin pocket knife

Try using a screwdriver to release the 2 clips in the front holding the unit (Not just the lenses) into the holder that's attached to the headliner. It's a 2 piece unit.

You're radio is not working because the circuit board may be the problem. If you have less than 105 k miles on you're Honda accord then I would suggest that you take it in to get the circuit board replaced on you're radio.