See "Related Questions" below for more

For all Taurus / Sable, the TSB basically states that Mercon V is now the specified transmission fluid.

Through a removable plug on the side of the transmission if standard/manual.

The transmission dip stick (fill) is a few inches from the power brake booster near the firewall.

You actually have to put it into the transmission fluid dipstick hole using a long funnel. I just did this tonight after speaking with my mechanic.

Start car let it run until car is warm (temp gauge is in the middle of cold and hot). or you can drive car until it is warm.

The fluid should be a light red color and be in the hash mark area on the dipstick. wipe dipstick and check a couple times to make sure.

Under the hood, behind the engine on the left (driver's) side. It's also the transmission dipstick tube. Best not fill it all - up but the transmission checker tube is generally close to the firewall and you best find it quick or get someone to show it to you. If you're having tran problems get the fluid and filter changed but not by a transmission repair shop.

You put fluid in the same place you check it. Make sure the car is parked on level ground and you check it according to the instructions in your owner's manual or what is written on the dip stick. DO NOT OVERFILL!!!!!

Transmission "dip' sticks most of the times are located in front of engine (marked) trans. oil or spelled out transmission oil remove stick use funnel ,place it in hole of dip stick add transmission oil, remember to check trans oil when car is on at idle speed. turn car on, wait 6 to 10 minutes, then check trans oil level make sure car is on park with parking brake on(safety)

The dipstick tube for the '95 Taurus 3.0 is located on the driver's side near the firewall (about 6" in front of it) nearly below the master cylinder. When filling the trans simply place a funnel for transmissions into the tube (after removing the dipstick) and pour about 1 pint at a time into the tube, waiting about 10 minutes between pours to check the level. The 10 minute wait allows the fluid to drain fully from the tube so you won't get false results.

The dipstick tube for the '95 Taurus 3.0 is located on the driver's side near the firewall (about 6" in front of it) nearly below the master cylinder. When filling the trans simply place a funnel for transmissions into the tube (after removing the dipstick) and pour about 1 pint at a time into the tube, waiting about 10 minutes between pours to check the level. The 10 minute wait allows the fluid to drain fully from the tube so you won't get false results.

Same place you check the fluid level.

Transmission at full operating temperture, engine running at idle, in park. Pull the dipstick and check the level. The add mark indicates 1 pint low. Caution: Do not overfill!!
towards the firewall, there is a red handle dipstick that says tranmision fluid, the same place that you check it. This is also where you fill it. Its a long skinny tube with the dipstick in it. You can buy a funnel at an autoparts store such as checker, schucks or kragen that is long and skinny for this purpose. They cost like $1. This is well detailed and illustrated in the Owners Manual - See "Related Questions" below for more

See "Related Links" below, for Autozone's on-line repair manual for 1996-1999 Taurus & Sable rear brake repair instructions.

Invaluable resource - for free! Okay, I did my disc brakes yesterday and offer the following: * The first 2 steps in the Autozone steps are about disconnecting the emergency brake cable - this is not necessary! On the driver's side, you might want to remove the cable clamp holding the cable up against the frame. * NOTE: the piston needs to rotate as it is compressed!There are notches in the face of the piston that are intended to help create both rotation and inward pressure.

Get a caliper piston compression tool! Many parts stores offer them for loan or rent. You definitely want one! (I fabricated my own from plumbing parts - didn't have a car available to go back to the parts store) * To compress the piston, follow these steps- : :# Remove the caliper and bracket :# Remove the rotor :# Put the bracket and caliper back on (don't bother really tightening the bolts) :# Put a c-clamp on that holds the caliper to the bracket - one end over the one of the caliper mounting bolts. : Now you can put lots of pressure up against the piston with the compression tool with both hands! Much easier. * Make sure the slide bolts on the caliper are moving freely. One of mine was rusted in place - took lots of heat, penetrating oil and patience to get it loose. : NOTE - be sure to peel off the rubber boot before you fire up the propane torch! : Wire brush the bolt and re-grease the whole thing under the rubber boot. * I found rotors for only $18 each and just replaced both. I haven't had rotors turned/re-surfaced in years. Easier to just put new ones on. * I love ceramic brake pads! I really appreciate the total lack of brake dust all over my wheels! Typically around $40-45, so their not much more than the metallics. I replaced the brake pads on my mom's 93 Taurus and the rear pads required a special tool to collapse the caliper. My brother is a technician for Ford and I used his tool that cost 75 dollars.

You cant use a C clamp - it won't work.

The trick is that the piston has to rotate and essentially screw itself back into the caliper.

There are two notches in the face of the piston that a 'special' tool fits into to help you rotate it while pushing in.

Late one Sunday afternoon was when I discovered this - no stores to get the 'right' tool from. I actually fabricated one out of a piece of galvanized pipe connector -and lots of grinding. Crude, but functional.

Many parts stores have a tool loaner option. You may even find this tool at affordable prices if you check around. You need a special tool available for rent at some parts stores. They should be able to tell you how to use it. The trick is that the piston has to rotate and essentially screw itself back into the caliper.

There are two notches in the face of the piston that a 'special' tool fits into to help you rotate it while pushing in.

Late one Sunday afternoon was when I discovered this - no stores to get the 'right' tool from. I actually fabricated one out of a piece of galvanized pipe connector -and lots of grinding. Crude, but functional. Rear disc brakes on Sables are more complicated then front brakes. If the rear brake unit has the parking brake attached to the side with a circular spring, then the rear brakes cannot be pressed back into place like the front ones. There is a brake tool needed to rotate the cylinder back into place. if your caliper piston is not depressing easily, it may be siezed. this is common in most vehicles with rear disc brakes Should I be depressing the piston as I am turning clockwise? Hal This is one of the worst, most arm wrenching jobs going. You need a gold 'cube' brake tool, available from most auto supply stores. You use a ratchet to hold the tool and compress the piston as you twist. It can take hours - as the cube will continually slip off (watch your hands). Supposedly if you open the bleeder valve it will just twist right in, spewing brake fluid everywhere. Never tried that. I did it once, and on the other side, I just simply replaced the caliper to avoid the pain and suffering. Use a big C-clamp. This will force fluid back up into the reservoir. Some will spill out if you have recently filled it. Clean up ASAP. If you are trying to change rear disc brakes on a 93 mercury sable, you will need a caliper removal tool set. You will find a small square type tool at auto parts stores that cost around $10 but these will not fit properly when trying to relieve the pressure so DO NOT purchase for a 1993 - the slots are not wide enough. Go to an auto parts store that offers a tool loan program (I went to A.Z.) and ask for the disc caliper removal set - you will have to leave a deposit. The one I got came in a red plastic case and there were around 6 or so round metal discs inside, each with differing widths for different models, a clamp used to turn the metal discs and a piece of metal shaped the same way as the brake pads. I cannot remember exactly how they worked now but once you get the CORRECT tool you should understand from there. you have to turn the piston clockwise into the caliper. you can buy this cube-thing or use needle nose pliers.

They are threaded to operate emeergency brake need special tool (available at Sears or auto parts) not expensive

BFG is correct...They twist back in. The tool looks like a square box with little bumps in different places for different cars and has a square hole in the middle for your extenion and ratchet.

• I have an '03 Civic and I have the REAL answer right here. There's a couple of steps to follow, so here we go: 1: put the key in the ignition. Don't turn the car on or turn it. 2: next to the odometer is that little knob for the trip OD. press that in and hold it.(you'll have to hold this for the entire rest of the process, so I hope you ate your Wheaties this morning) 3: now turn the key two clicks to the II position. (are you still holding the trip button down?..you had better be..) do not actually start the car. 4: keep holding the trip button down and leave the key at the II position until the maint req'd light goes out. 5: don't get all excited. Keep that trip button pushed down while you turn the key back two clicks back to off and take the key out. 6: Ok Ok, NOW you can let go of the button. All of you that answered before, your hearts are in the right place. But the Hondas have changed since the 90s. I had an old Accord, and yes it had the little button that you can push right on the dash. But the new Hondas are reset differently. As far as I know, the proceedure I gave just now will work with any Honda, not just the Civic.

• I have a 02 civic and the only thing I did differently was start with the key in the #1 position.

• I have a 05 civic and the process above worked like a charm. (Just wanted people to know that the process works on 05 civics too)

• I have a '97 accord and on the dashpanel, by the mileage/tripomemter is a small black box like thing, the key for the car fits right in and resets the light. Look in your manual, it will say in there for sure or contact the dealer, they should know. I know the '97 accord light comes on after so many miles have passed, and most places that aren't the dealer do not reset it so it will come on and I usually reset it myself.

• I have the same problem and although I haven't tried this yet, I read in another forum that you should press and hold the select/reset button; then turn the ignition on and hold until the light goes out (about 5 seconds).

• It's easy to do. The instructions are in your manual (page 65). It's different for 4 and 6 cylinder models. I have a 6. Here's how to reset the 2003 6: 1) Put the key in the ignition without turning. 2) Press and hold the odomoter reset button. 3) Turn the ignition key to the on position without starting the car, continuing to hold the reset button. 4) Hold the reset button until the light goes out - approx. 10 seconds.

• Take it to the auto parts or the dealer if it is not in your book and have them reset it with the computer, or disconnected your battery.

• Disconnecting your battery for a few seconds is a quick and simple way to reset the trouble codes in the computer.

• I have a 2000 Honda civic, all I do is use a pen or key and push in the the slot beside the maintenance light. Not sure if you have that but you just hold it down and it flips itself.

• I was lookin for the owners manual in this customers car and couldn't find it but your directions worked for my customers 00 Civic 4 cylinder also. NOTE Disconecting the Battery does not work and will also not reset almost any light in Cars that are newer then 1996 from what i have found. (OBD2 Systems)

• Attention, when you disconnect the battery you may reset the radio anti-theft code and if you don?t know it you get into more trouble.

• Ok first off the battery disconnecting "thing" does work but you have to disconnect both terminals and touch them together for 10-15 seconds for it to work. And I seem to se alot of people just wanting to turn the maintenance light off, it says maintenance required i suggest you get your maintenance done, that's why it's there. And for any of the non-car type people out there if you take your car to any dealer they will tell you waht need to be done and why the light is on free of charge... at least i know i would at my dealership. It's not that hard. Oh and as for the radio lock code it is again a simple phone call away for any dealer and you should not be charged for it. If someone is telling you otherwise then you should ask for the service manager or shop forman and they will get it done for you.

• The solution for the 2003 V6 did work, Thanks. The dealer stated at least for a 2003 Accord this light will reappear every 7500 miles.

Open the hood and look around. It is right there in front of you on the engine. If you cannot find the dipstick then you need to shut the hood and seek professional help. You have no business under the hood of your Honda.

Wilke339's answer:

If your Accord is 4 cylinder, the oil dipstick probably has a yellow pull ring handle, and is located toward the driver's side of the engine, up high near the top belt pulley.

--DudeItsAHonda

You take it to the dealer (or a very knowledgable specialist shop - for a Honda one should be fairly easy to find locally, and have the required servicing done...

At 60,000 miles, many modern cars require replacement of the timing belt. Although the procedure is probably the most costly of the Scheduled Maintenance Items, unlike many more mundane items such as changing the wiper blades, oil, or tires, failure to replace this belt in a timely (pardon the pun) fashion will, in most modern cars, *DESTROY* the engine when (not if---*when*) the timing belt does fail.

Common Parts to Replace a Timing Belt: Timing Belt 3-5 Miscellaneous pulleys Hydraulic belt tensioner assembly and pulley. On some cars, this is a good time to replace the water pump, since you're already pulling the front of the engine that far apart, anyway. Total cost: $600-800 is probably not unreasonable.

Common Parts to Replace a FAILED Timing Belt: Timing Belt 3-5 Miscellaneous pulleys Hydraulic belt tensioner assembly and pulley. On some cars, this is a good time to replace the water pump, since you're already pulling the front of the engine that far apart, anyway. 1 cylinder head 16 valves 1-4 pistons damaged when the valves smack into them reworking the inside of the cylinders if they get scratched or scored. Towing costs. rental car costs. etc.

Just take it in... =) Total cost: $600-800 is probably not unreasonable.

Common parts to replace

I'm not entirely sure about the Accord, but this answer works for the same year of Civic, Prelude, and Acura (Honda) Integra. It will probably work for the Accord, too. On the typical Honda gauge layout, there is a small, rectangular, recessed button directly to the left of the "Maintenance Required" light. Using your car key, you can press this button in, which will cause the light to turn green. The maintenance light (at least on my Civic) will come on about every 4000 miles if not reset (for oil changes), and also periodically for other scheduled maintenance.

on the '97 accord in the dash panel layout, near the mileage, is a small black box, your key should fit right into it, push it in and it should go away. you can also look in the owner's manual, it'll say in there. the light usually comes on after so many miles, and most places that aren't the dealer won't know to put the key in there to reset it so it might come on before maintenance is needed.

With the key off, hold down the trip meter reset button. turn the key on and continue holding the reset button in until the maintenance light goes off, about 10 seconds. Source: owners manual.

97 Honda Accord LX

Just push in the black button next to the Maintenance required light after you have changed the oil in all the way and the light will turn green again. Works in mine. No key in the ignition required.