I hate to be the bearer of bad news but, the most probable cause would be a blown head gasket. Has the engine ever been overheated at any point? This will usually cause this problem. The mechanic should carefully look over the engine block to make sure there are no cracks in the cylinder walls, and check the cylinder head for cracks and warpage. The head gasket seats between the block and the head. There are 2 heads on your engine. If the block is cracked, then you will need a short block, and recommend rebuilt heads as well. Make sure they look it over really good, and I also recommend a new radiator cap, and thermostat. This is the most common cause of overheating.
it could also be bad intake gaskets on the 3.1, I had the same problem with oil in coolant, so I changed intake gaskets, flushed out system, put in new thermotat that was 3 months ago, and the car is still fine. no more oil in coolant!!Honda Man's Answer
Intake gaskets on the 3.1 and 3.4 GM engines are the primary cause of coolant in the oil (just did my brother's today). He didn't overheat his so the head gaskets were ok. Had to change the oil three times before stopped looking like choclate milk. Used the LIS48500 Push rod tool to make the job easier.
ebay my man. And Good luck finding one too... there arent a whole lot of aftermarket parts for metros unfortunately.
You cant. Them come with a automatic belt tensioner and if the belt breaks, you must disassemble the whole pulley system.
The fuse is located under the dash along the driver side wall. There is an off-white box about 4 x 5 inches. On the bottom of the box is an L-shaped cover. Removing the cover, you will see the fuses. The fuse you want is the "ACC" fuse. I spent over an hour looking for this fuse when it blew as well.
pcv valve is in the valve cover across from yhe intake plelum
Idealy you should always replace the head bolt. most cases it is mandatory. check your specs. if the tightening sequence finishes with a 1/4 turn or some non foot pound reference then the head bolt must be replaced.
I just put a new head on my 94 Metro with 97000 miles on it. I would say yes if the car has been good till now, but the main thing is the cost, I do all my on work so I'm out just the money for parts. My other ride is a F-150 4x4 that gets about 12 mpg on a good day going down hill with a tailwind. I drive 90 a day for work so you can guess the gas savings will pay off the parts I bought in less that a month. TedsToys
As I understand, the timing is computer controlled on the 98 metro. this means that it does not have a traditional distributor cap (which can be adjusted mechanically) but rather an electronic sensor. I believe it can be reprogramed with a mod chip though. --RS4
How to change a Chevy metro ac belt.
It's been a while, I still have the car (130K) but it's pretty easy, if I remember right.
1. It's easier if jack up the passenger side of the car. But it is not a "have to".
2. You don't absolutly have to remove the plastic engine compartment cover, but it's easier if you do-it makes it easier to see what your doing. They just snaps/pry out, if you break one of the fastners you can cable tie it back or go to auto parts store and get another plastic fastner. If you've done it before you can 'kinda reach around the cover.
3. There is a bolt to slip a socket on and by turning it one way or another you either tighten or loosen the belt. Keep turning till you get enough slack to slip the belt off. make sure to look at exactly where the belt goes.
4. Take it off, slide the new one back on and tighten till it seems reaspnably OK.
5. The bad/dangerous thing is; that to tighten the belt properly you should have the engine running and turn the adjusting belt until the squealing noise goes away. A car withan engine running and belts whirling around looks dangerous because it is!!!Be careful !!! You are on your own- with not second chances!!! You might have to drive it a bit and do it again.
If you have any questions, email@example.com
Just pull 12V from the battery or the fuse panel. Make sure you put the appropriate sized fuse inline with you cigarette lighter. It will protect against fires. Good luck.
Your fuse box will be in behind the bottom of the dashboard underneath the steering wheel (Usually has a beige cap that clips off)
Purchase a 9007 headlight. There are many brands; I prefer Sylvania. You must open the hood and at the rear of the headlamp there is a plug assembly. Take your hand and turn counter clockwise until the harness pops out. You will then take the old headlight out by just adjusting the clip holding it into place. Then you put the new bulb (9007) on the end of the harness until it clicks. Replace the bulb and harness into the hole in the headlamp and turn clockwise this time until it pops into place. It will fit snuggly. That's it turn on the key or headlights to see if it is working properly. Good Luck
Should be listed in the owner's manual. If you don't have one and can't find one from a dealership it may be best to pick up a Hayne's or Chilton's manual for a few bucks.
Fuel filter is located by the fuel tank, near the frame. I first thought it never had one, but I took it too my trustworthy mechanic in which found it and I got the part from Partsource and he installed it. The old one was in nasty condition.AnswerIT DOES NOT HAVE A FILTER. THE ONLY FILTERING THAT IS DONE IS IN THE FUEL TANK. IT HAS A SOCK IN THE TANK ON THE RETURN LINE.
Response to above answer: The Chevy Metro does have a fuel filter. A quick search on Google Products for "fuel filter Chevy metro" will bring up a listing for the disputed item, and includes a picture of the device.
Get thee to a library my friend ! You'll need more than a description with words to get this done right! Use pictures that look exactly like your crank, camshaft and casting notches to line this sequence up. Do it wrong and you risk irreparable damage to the top end of the motor! I believe this is a "contact" motor. DOH! That would be an INTERFERENCE motor.
It is located in the top of the motor with a rubber tube/hose going to the air cleaner I believe.
Most of these type questions would never be asked if driver's would open their owner's manual and read. This type information is contained within the owner's manual. If you do not have one, get one. You can get one at your dealer, or may find one at a salvage yard, laying in a glove box. You need the owner's manual for maintenance intervals, and other pertinent information. Why and how thee seem to be lost is a mystery to me. Question after question, asked on this site that can be answered by opening this little book. I have never owned a vehicle without having an owner's manual. I also see a lot of questions that can be answered by raising the hood and looking at the placards located there. Spark plug gap is just one. Amazing!
Air Conditioning/Refrigeration service, be it auto, residential, commercial, or industrial has become an expensive and tricky proposition as the Montreal Protocol restrictions on refrigerant manufacture, use, and recovery take effect worldwide. Any auto a/c system that needs refrigerant added, is assumed to have a leak, and in some cases will require expensive repair rather than a simple top-off of refrigerant gas, in some cases however, one can add or charge in a small amount that took maybe a year or so to leak out, (microscopic hose leaks possibly etc.) but adding gas to a leaky system is usually a waste of time and it will leak out in a short time anyway, putting the expensive a/c compressor at risk due to overheat and a lack of lubrication. Having said all that, a top-off of refrigerant for the 2001 metro, which I also own, can be done by purchasing a R-134a refrigerant recharge kit (from your auto supply) with an attached hose and fitting designed to fit the suction line access valve, and then carefully following the directions supplied (you must use extreme caution and be technically competent to perform this task to avoid a dangerous overcharge, or bursting of the can which can cause great bodily injury). Also keep in mind that the only accurate way to charge an auto a/c system is to safely and legally recover and evacuate all the existing gas from the system, then hopefully after a successful leak repair, carefully weigh-in an the exact amount listed on the a/c factory specification label placed under the hood by the factory to assist the service technician, which, again may leak-out if the needed repair is not performed properly. I had to charge my system this warm Spring already, with approx 12OZ, so I will be pulling out my trusty H-10 detector and chasing another of the zillion leaks I've chased atop walk-in's, in house attics, all over super markets, in floors, etc, etc. A/C&R is not the cheap luxury we use to enjoy since someone discovered that the CFC's in the old refrigerants has all but destroyed our world............LOL : ) . Hope that helps to convince you to buy a new car, or hand the headache over to a qualified repair facility. Just watch your wallet, these qualified repair facilities are not "FREON PARTS & LABOR" by any means. GOOD LUCK! JLeeSki in So. Ca.
In my 98 Metro 3 cyl 5 speed I changed the timing belt and continued to have a oil leak in the area around the oil pump. After several remove and reinstall procedures of the front plate that houses the oil pump I realized one of the alighnment pins on either side of the crankshaft ( fits into block )was missing. Installed new alighnment pin and reinstalled front plate and the oil leak has vanished.
2.5 qts of gear oil. Check with your local NAPA for the weight oil it needs. This information is listed in your owner's manual. Don't have one, get one. Dealer, salvage yard, e-bay, Google Search.
For a 1.0 litre and manual tranny it's 55 ft.lbs
The fuel filter on a 2001 Chevy Metro LSI is located along the vehicle's frame, just beyond the fuel tank. It is positioned inline to prevent contaminants from reaching the engine and allow for easy replacement.
For the front brakes put the car up on jack stands or you can do one wheel at a time with a regular jack. Remove the front wheels. There are 2 bolts on the back of the caliper holding it to the hub assembly. Remove those 2 bolts and the caliper will slide off from the side. Don't let the caliper hang by the brake hose. Try using a bungee cord or some wire and tie to any part of the car for support so it can hang without damaging the hose. If the rotor needs replacing that should slide freely right off the wheel studs at this point. Next you will need a C-clamp. Find a good access point on the caliper and place one edge of the clamp to the caliper and the other edge to the brake pad that is set in the piston. Compress the brake pad until it won't move inward anymore and then loosen and remove the C-clamp. Remove the old brake pads with a flat head screw driver. They are only held in by metal clips. Installation is the reverse procedure. You may want to spray the back of the new brake pads with an anti squealing compound and allow to dry before installing them. This will ensure nice quiet brakes. Also you will need to pump the brakes a few times when you first start the car until the brake pad feels normal again. It will be very loose because the calipers will still be compressed.
For the back brakes put the car on jack stands or you can do one wheel at a time. Remove the rear wheels. You will need to pull the drum off of the wheel assembly. This may requre some banging with a large hammer. I believe on the Geo there is one retaining screw that will be a real pain to get off with a regular screwdriver. You may want to purchase a power driver for this application so as not to strip the screw. One can be purchased at a good auto parts store for about $20.00. Make sure the emergency brake is not on or you will never get the drum off. Once the drum is removed there are 2 retaining springs on each brake pad that can be a pain to remove. You can try with a regular pair of pliers and push the spring in and turn it clockwise so that the retaining post can easily slide through the slot on the plate connected to the spring. They also sell a tool specifically made for this purpose. You will also need to disconnect the emergency brake cable which will be attached to only one of the brake pads at the bottom. You should be able to remove both pads at the same time. They will be connected together by a spring at the bottom and separated by a cylinder with a star wheel on it. You will want to turn the star wheel to close the distance between the pads. Take note of how the pieces are put together before removing everything because there are some pieces that are held in by other pieces and they may fall out while removing the pads. Installation is the reverse procedure. Once the new pads are on you will want to put the car in reverse and let it roll to the end of the drive way and then slam your brakes. This will set the cylinder with the star wheel so that you have the proper distance between the brake pads.
goto Best Buy and buy a wire harness and an install face plate. Next just match the colors on the wire harness with the new deck, and plug the wire harness into the one the old deck was on. Its too easy.
Give me food and I will live give me water and I will die what am I?
Asked By Wiki User
What is the biggest number you can make using the digits 641?
Asked By Wiki User
Why is TikTok getting banned in the US?
Asked By Amie Smitham
What is exponet of 7x10x10x10x10?
Asked By Wiki User
How do you remove a factory radio from a 2000 Chevy Metro and install a CD player radio?
Asked By Wiki User
Will a 1.0 liter motor bolt up to a 99 metro auto tranny that had a 1.3 liter in it?
Asked By Wiki User
Geo Metro 2000 where is Evap vent selenoid?
Asked By Wiki User
What is a cv boot on 2001 Chevy Metro?
Asked By Wiki User
Copyright © 2020 Multiply Media, LLC. All Rights Reserved. The material on this site can not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with prior written permission of Multiply.