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Put it in the sun :)

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pull frame from around radio four screw located around radio open glovebox reach behind unplug power and radio ant pullout

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remove screws from within the engine compartment that fasten it in place.

More detailed info is needed. There are 2 obvious screws that can be removed. But there is still one or more holding the fixture in place. How many screws are there to be removed and where are they located? Or, alternateively, how do you get to them? Is it possible that the third item is not a screw but some sort of press fit or snap in connector?

after the two screws are removed pull straight out on the plastic piece. There are two snap in plugs which will release.

Sometimes I think these answers are left by mechanics just to frustrate people. There are two different kinds of headlight assemblies on the 1997 Geo Metro. One is called the sealed beam assembly. It has a sealed beam headlight which is all one unit (like all headlights used to be). With this fixture, according to the book, there are supposedly just the two top screws and it pulls out - I wouldn't know for sure - I don't have that model. But on my model, which has the composite type of headlight assembly - the kind where the halogen bulb inserts into the back of the unit - there are three screws. There are the obvious top two screws, and another one under the unit which is a bugger to get to. The best way is to remove the blinker unit underneath the headlight assembly (it pops out with just two screws removed) and then you will be able to shine a light back there and see the 3rd screw (look straight in and then slightly up). It screws in parallel to the ground - from front to back, NOT perpendicular like the other two. You'll have to reach in from underneath the car to get to it, and you'll need the correct sized little screwdriver or driver unit for your rachet to get it out. It's the same size as the other two screws, so if your screwdriver fits good on those it's the correct size, but you'll need a short handled screwdriver to fit under there! The headlamp assembly then just pulls out (wiggle it carefully, also be sure to unplug the wiring from the two lights - the big one just unplugs - the little bulb (the running light) has a snap catch, or you can just turn the part where it attaches to the assembly and the whole bulb will come out. However, there really is no need the remove the whole headlamp assembly unit if it's just the headlight that needs replacing. To replace the halogen headlight, first unplug the wiring, then turn the snap ring until it comes off, and carefully de-latch the metal "wire" holder that holds the halogen bulb in place. You may have to loosen a screw to do this, and take great care to see how this metal wire holder is on there, because it'll just pop off of there, and you'll have a devil of a time figuring out how it went on there to hold the bulb down (at least the first time you do it - after that you'll be OK - but if you take the time at the start to note how it's on there you'll save yourself a lot of grief!) If you are replacing the headlight on the drivers side, you'll also have to remove the battery first, but in my opinion, that's still easier than removing the entire headlamp unit. Good luck - you can do it!!

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The Arctic Ocean

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look for a reset button, either on a tire well or on the steering column on the top May require insertion of spare fuse into special slot in fuseholder to read code. Clear code by temporarily cutting power (easily done by removing negative battery cable. Answer--- If you or a friend has a hand held OBD-II scanner, just connect it to your data link and use it to clear the codes.

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i have a 1994 geo metro and my radio and lighter fuse is fuse number 9, and it is a 15 amp [red] fuse

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the older freon-very expensive. have it flushed and retro fitted with the new R134A... you can do it yourself-buy a refresh kit at WalMart..about $30.oo Now for the correct answer. There is only one kind of FREON. It is the brand of R-12 Refrigerant made by Dupont. What you need to do to avoid spending $100-$150 per pound is retrofit it to an R-134A system. Production of R-12 was ended on Dec. 31, 1995 since it destroyed the ozone layer. However R-134A will be done sometime around 2009 since it is a green house gas (global warming). By the way, if you want to avoid a $32,500 dollar fine for not having a license to work on refrigeration systems, pick up the EPA section 609 test book. The test fee is $15.00. Well worth the test fee compared to fine or 5 years in jail. LOL

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Water pump replacement on a 1994 Geo.

Get a repair manual

Let the engine cool

Disconect negative Battery cable

Drain coolant from Radiator

Loosen water pump pully bolts

Remove drive belts

Remove water pump pully

Remove crankshaft pully

remove timing cover

remove timing belt >>>It helps it you line the crank up at top dead center before doing this. Make sure you do not nove the crankshaft or the camshaft or you will have to re set the valve timing. Also since you are going this far you might consider replacing the timing belt.<<<

unbolt water pump

Clean water pump bolts

Clean gasket mating surfaces

install pump w/new gasket

torq to 11 ft-lbs

Replace everything in reverse order

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It tells you the doors are not locked. The light goes out when you lock the doors. It's just a friendly reminder to lock your doors.

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the refill plug is located on the drivers side of the transaxle at or about the same level as the drivers side axle shaft. It is a 3/8 inch square inside plug that can be removed using a 3/8 inch ratchet or braker bar

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Your idle may need to be set up a little I had the same problem with my 1992 Geo Metro 3 cylinder 1 Liter, when i stopped at a stop light the car would die. Check your compression on all cylinders, most likely the problem is with some burned exhaust valves. I overhauled my motor, new piston rings and replaced all exhaust valves, now it idles just fine. Answer--- You may have a flithy air filter which will starve the car. Or it could be dirty injectors and a fuel filter that needs changing. A whole lot cheaper to try these before you do a rebuild.

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It holds 3.7 qts.(3.5 liters) I have one with 85,000 miles on it.

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I would say most likely not. Even if you had the engine and transmission to go in the new car. There will be many modifications to make to make it work. Not to mention, the sensors and everything else most likely will be diiferent as well.

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on a 3 cyl.metro,the iat sensor is found on the air cleaner housing towards the rear of the assembly

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Hey Scott==Check the cat convertor. Put a vacuum gauge on the engine and see what vacuum you have at 900rpm.It should be about 18 inches. Then rev it to 3500 and it should not drop over about 5 inches. If it drops to 8 or9 inches and stays there at that rpm, the conv is plugged. GoodluckJoe

Sometimes this condition is caused by a dirty fuel filter.

It depends on what you mean by "loses all power". If you mean the electrical system stops working (i.e. engine quits, no lights, etc.) then it could also be caused by a dead alternator or battery, broken alternator belt, bad electrical connections, etc.

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the rotation is counter clock wise and the firing order is 1-3-2.

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On the firewall under your brake master cylinder. In 99, they started putting them in the gas tank.

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One... It's screwed right into the exhaust manifold. It's very easy to get to but can be hard to get the old one out... They make special sockets for O2 sensors.

I own a 97' geo but have two sensors...

From 1996 on, the system is OBD-II, which has two oxygen sensors, one on the exhaust manifold and a second one on the catalytic converter. Pre-96 only have one on the exhaust manifold. The sensor wiring varies with 3-pin and 4-pin variations.

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The thermostat is under the top radiator hose. Remove the radiator hose at the top of the engine, below the hose flange sits the thermostat. just pull it out and replace it with a new one, then replace the hose over it. hope this waas the help you wewe looking for.

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Just remove the trim around it. You may have a couple of screws around the ashtray. Make sure to look for and remove all screws in the trim and then just pry the cover off. This should allow you access to the fan switch. It should be held in by a couple of screws. Those switch controls are just pushed on so they should pull off pretty easily. Once you get all of that out of the way, you should be able to see what you have to do. And no, they don't go out regularly, but any switch is capable of failure after 10 years of use.

As a matter of fact I've seen these switches fail in many metros....to be honest it is a poor design with a small steel ball sandwiched between plastic and copper. It does function as a variable speed switch but the ball can become caught when the plastic warms and cause switch failure. auto yard is the best place to find replacement and repair parts for these. fan switch is common throughout the metro/sprint years.

I agree with the poor design... if the existing switch is repairable... you can fashion a wire clip or strap to hold the back of the switch together... yes the heat and use will cause the plastic clips to fail and the spring will push the switch apart.

You will have to unplug the switch to get access... in order to avoid having to remove the vent cables you can unplug the switch and turn the assembly enough to pull it partially out of dash to get to the switch parts... be careful cause the ball is spring loaded.