Put it in the sun :)
pull frame from around radio four screw located around radio open glovebox reach behind unplug power and radio ant pullout
remove screws from within the engine compartment that fasten it in place.
More detailed info is needed. There are 2 obvious screws that can be removed. But there is still one or more holding the fixture in place. How many screws are there to be removed and where are they located? Or, alternateively, how do you get to them? Is it possible that the third item is not a screw but some sort of press fit or snap in connector?
after the two screws are removed pull straight out on the plastic piece. There are two snap in plugs which will release.
Sometimes I think these answers are left by mechanics just to frustrate people. There are two different kinds of headlight assemblies on the 1997 Geo Metro. One is called the sealed beam assembly. It has a sealed beam headlight which is all one unit (like all headlights used to be). With this fixture, according to the book, there are supposedly just the two top screws and it pulls out - I wouldn't know for sure - I don't have that model. But on my model, which has the composite type of headlight assembly - the kind where the halogen bulb inserts into the back of the unit - there are three screws. There are the obvious top two screws, and another one under the unit which is a bugger to get to. The best way is to remove the blinker unit underneath the headlight assembly (it pops out with just two screws removed) and then you will be able to shine a light back there and see the 3rd screw (look straight in and then slightly up). It screws in parallel to the ground - from front to back, NOT perpendicular like the other two. You'll have to reach in from underneath the car to get to it, and you'll need the correct sized little screwdriver or driver unit for your rachet to get it out. It's the same size as the other two screws, so if your screwdriver fits good on those it's the correct size, but you'll need a short handled screwdriver to fit under there! The headlamp assembly then just pulls out (wiggle it carefully, also be sure to unplug the wiring from the two lights - the big one just unplugs - the little bulb (the running light) has a snap catch, or you can just turn the part where it attaches to the assembly and the whole bulb will come out. However, there really is no need the remove the whole headlamp assembly unit if it's just the headlight that needs replacing. To replace the halogen headlight, first unplug the wiring, then turn the snap ring until it comes off, and carefully de-latch the metal "wire" holder that holds the halogen bulb in place. You may have to loosen a screw to do this, and take great care to see how this metal wire holder is on there, because it'll just pop off of there, and you'll have a devil of a time figuring out how it went on there to hold the bulb down (at least the first time you do it - after that you'll be OK - but if you take the time at the start to note how it's on there you'll save yourself a lot of grief!) If you are replacing the headlight on the drivers side, you'll also have to remove the battery first, but in my opinion, that's still easier than removing the entire headlamp unit. Good luck - you can do it!!
I picked up my Metro used and it already had 100,000+ miles on it. I understand that if they are well cared for 300,000+ can be the life span. In response to your question, I drive 30 miles one way to commute to work and also do some in town driving. I have averaged between 40 and 45 MPG. Gave the car a tune up when I first got it and have had to replace the rear brake pads. My "check engine" light has been on for months and I understand the sensor is bad. Does not affect the performance so I'll probably never replace it. However, I now have a bad dimmer switch...look out! This little puppy costs $400 at the parts store. Fortunately, I've located a one at the local junk yard for $25. I love this little car!I have a 1991 Geo Metro , I have installed a cat back exhaust system,a K&N aircleaner,ram air,a performance camshaft,underdrive aluminum pulleys,MSD ignition coil,8 degree advance cam sprocket,and a resistor for my AIT,I get an honest 53 mpg at over 70 miles per hour........I am installing headers next month,the car has 168,000 miles on it an has been overheated 12 times by my son,and I have ran out of oil completely a few times, this is an amazing little engine......I have a more powerful engine almost ready to go in as soon as this one dies,but I have been waiting a long time for this one to die. I have a 1998 metro with a 3 cylinder suzuki engine and 5 speed manual transmission (150,000 miles). It is used as a to and from work car and goes through city and light highway. It has averaged 47 miles per gallon for the past year. GM and Suzuki have had a proffessional relationship for years. The two companies currently operate a shared plant that used to produce Suzuki Swifts and Geo/Chevy Metros. It now produces Suzuki Areos and Chevy Aveos. With very few exceptions the 1.3L motors found in these cars are identical. The same for the 1.0L three cylinder. As an aside, both these motors will work (with some slight modifications) in Suzuki Samurais. So when you are junk yard shopping don't pass on either car. They are virtually the same. try cleaning throttle plate and reseting code by discoecting neg battery cable.mine did same thing for months
The Metro and Aveo are not and were not manufactured in the same plant, and they do not share the same engine. The Aveo is made by the former Daewoo company, mostly in South Korea. The Metro was made in Canada, and previously in Japan.
The difference is significant because the Aveo's get poor mpg when compared with the 3 cylinder Metro.
the above answer is correct the aveo and metro are not the same car and have nothing to do with one another.
The Arctic Ocean
look for a reset button, either on a tire well or on the steering column on the top May require insertion of spare fuse into special slot in fuseholder to read code. Clear code by temporarily cutting power (easily done by removing negative battery cable. Answer--- If you or a friend has a hand held OBD-II scanner, just connect it to your data link and use it to clear the codes.
I have just discovered this same problem in my mother's 96 Metro The daytime running lights work ok, but as soon as you put the lights on, the daytime running lights cut out and all you are left with are the parking lights. In addition the brights work when you pull the stick towards you, but will not stay on when you puh the stick forward to leave them on. I removed the whole fuse block from under the dash and discovered one burnt out terminal on the under side. All of the other terminals in the block are nice and clean looking except for this one that is dicolored with burnt plastic around it. My advice would be to replace the fuse block and possibly the connector that plugs into it.
i have a 1994 geo metro and my radio and lighter fuse is fuse number 9, and it is a 15 amp [red] fuse
the older freon-very expensive. have it flushed and retro fitted with the new R134A... you can do it yourself-buy a refresh kit at WalMart..about $30.oo Now for the correct answer. There is only one kind of FREON. It is the brand of R-12 Refrigerant made by Dupont. What you need to do to avoid spending $100-$150 per pound is retrofit it to an R-134A system. Production of R-12 was ended on Dec. 31, 1995 since it destroyed the ozone layer. However R-134A will be done sometime around 2009 since it is a green house gas (global warming). By the way, if you want to avoid a $32,500 dollar fine for not having a license to work on refrigeration systems, pick up the EPA section 609 test book. The test fee is $15.00. Well worth the test fee compared to fine or 5 years in jail. LOL
Water pump replacement on a 1994 Geo.
Get a repair manual
Let the engine cool
Disconect negative Battery cable
Drain coolant from Radiator
Loosen water pump pully bolts
Remove drive belts
Remove water pump pully
Remove crankshaft pully
remove timing cover
remove timing belt >>>It helps it you line the crank up at top dead center before doing this. Make sure you do not nove the crankshaft or the camshaft or you will have to re set the valve timing. Also since you are going this far you might consider replacing the timing belt.<<<
unbolt water pump
Clean water pump bolts
Clean gasket mating surfaces
install pump w/new gasket
torq to 11 ft-lbs
Replace everything in reverse order
----Perhaps it is because of your large behind IN a Geo Metro?
Your catalytic converter may be getting stopped up too.
Try changing the fuel & oil filters.
Mine was doing the same thing last summer, the fuel & oil filters were both plugged.
Stop trying to drive up walls.
It could be a lot of things. It may be running too rich and bogging down(replace oxygen sensor). The camshaft lobes may be worn down and the valves aren't opening all the way(replace or regrind the cam). The catalytic converter or exhaust pipe could be clogged up with carbon. But keep in mind it is a Geo Metro, economy is the goal here, not performance...
I am having the same problem. Oil and fuel filters have been replaced and now will not accelerate at all. my mechanic says it is acting like an issue with the timing belt but the belt is fine and working properly. The computer diagnostics are fine as well. any ideas
It tells you the doors are not locked. The light goes out when you lock the doors. It's just a friendly reminder to lock your doors.
the refill plug is located on the drivers side of the transaxle at or about the same level as the drivers side axle shaft. It is a 3/8 inch square inside plug that can be removed using a 3/8 inch ratchet or braker bar
Your idle may need to be set up a little I had the same problem with my 1992 Geo Metro 3 cylinder 1 Liter, when i stopped at a stop light the car would die. Check your compression on all cylinders, most likely the problem is with some burned exhaust valves. I overhauled my motor, new piston rings and replaced all exhaust valves, now it idles just fine. Answer--- You may have a flithy air filter which will starve the car. Or it could be dirty injectors and a fuel filter that needs changing. A whole lot cheaper to try these before you do a rebuild.
It holds 3.7 qts.(3.5 liters) I have one with 85,000 miles on it.
I would say most likely not. Even if you had the engine and transmission to go in the new car. There will be many modifications to make to make it work. Not to mention, the sensors and everything else most likely will be diiferent as well.
on a 3 cyl.metro,the iat sensor is found on the air cleaner housing towards the rear of the assembly
Hey Scott==Check the cat convertor. Put a vacuum gauge on the engine and see what vacuum you have at 900rpm.It should be about 18 inches. Then rev it to 3500 and it should not drop over about 5 inches. If it drops to 8 or9 inches and stays there at that rpm, the conv is plugged. GoodluckJoe
Sometimes this condition is caused by a dirty fuel filter.
It depends on what you mean by "loses all power". If you mean the electrical system stops working (i.e. engine quits, no lights, etc.) then it could also be caused by a dead alternator or battery, broken alternator belt, bad electrical connections, etc.
the rotation is counter clock wise and the firing order is 1-3-2.
It is not an hard job and can easily be done in less than a day by an amatuer. But if you have to ask how you need to get the manual for the car as there are quite a number of steps.
I agree that you should have a manual close by for reference, but in its absence, here's the procedure I wrote down last time I changed my clutch.
Jack up the front of the car and support with jackstands
Drain the radiator
Drain the transaxle
Remove the following from above:
battery and battery tray
air filter assembly
3 hoses attached to water pipe (don't lose the clamps)
water pipe - 10mm - (one bolt is almost hidden up top)
negative ground on transaxle - 12mm
various wiring connections
starter - 12mm - 2 bolts (don't lose the shim)
Remove the following from below:
shifter lever & support rod from transaxle - 12mm & 14mm
left (driver) A-arm bolt
use prybar to force A-arm down so wheel pulls away (don't destroy your ball joint boot)
prybar half-axle out of transaxle (you'll feel it pop, then slide out)
Support the engine - jackstand + wood blocks work (don't damage the oil pan)
Support the transaxle with jack
Remove flywheel cover plate between engine and bell housing - 12mm
Remove transaxle-to-engine bolts - 14mm
Remove transaxle mount (to frame) bolts - 14mm
Separate transaxle from engine
prybar is ok, but don't force too hard
if they don't come apart easily, adjust the angle using the jack
** At any time after separation, handling the clutch lever may cause the throwout bearing to jump out
Use prybar to 'pop' passenger half-axle from transaxle
Lower transaxle out of the way
Remove clutch pressure plate and disc - 12mm
Remove flywheel - easiest to counter the rotation with a socket on the opposite side of engine (nut inside center pulley)
Have the flywheel resurfaced - about $40 at any reputable machine shop
** This is important if flywheel has discolored "hot spots", failure to do so may cause your new clutch to get chattery and fail early
The new clutch kit will come with a pilot bearing (center of flywheel) and a throwout bearing (inside transaxle on shaft).
If you ask nicely, your machinist may replace the pilot bearing for you while he's got the flywheel
On the firewall under your brake master cylinder. In 99, they started putting them in the gas tank.
One... It's screwed right into the exhaust manifold. It's very easy to get to but can be hard to get the old one out... They make special sockets for O2 sensors.
I own a 97' geo but have two sensors...
From 1996 on, the system is OBD-II, which has two oxygen sensors, one on the exhaust manifold and a second one on the catalytic converter. Pre-96 only have one on the exhaust manifold. The sensor wiring varies with 3-pin and 4-pin variations.
The thermostat is under the top radiator hose. Remove the radiator hose at the top of the engine, below the hose flange sits the thermostat. just pull it out and replace it with a new one, then replace the hose over it. hope this waas the help you wewe looking for.
Just remove the trim around it. You may have a couple of screws around the ashtray. Make sure to look for and remove all screws in the trim and then just pry the cover off. This should allow you access to the fan switch. It should be held in by a couple of screws. Those switch controls are just pushed on so they should pull off pretty easily. Once you get all of that out of the way, you should be able to see what you have to do. And no, they don't go out regularly, but any switch is capable of failure after 10 years of use.
As a matter of fact I've seen these switches fail in many metros....to be honest it is a poor design with a small steel ball sandwiched between plastic and copper. It does function as a variable speed switch but the ball can become caught when the plastic warms and cause switch failure. auto yard is the best place to find replacement and repair parts for these. fan switch is common throughout the metro/sprint years.
I agree with the poor design... if the existing switch is repairable... you can fashion a wire clip or strap to hold the back of the switch together... yes the heat and use will cause the plastic clips to fail and the spring will push the switch apart.
You will have to unplug the switch to get access... in order to avoid having to remove the vent cables you can unplug the switch and turn the assembly enough to pull it partially out of dash to get to the switch parts... be careful cause the ball is spring loaded.
What is ROBLOX's password on roblox?
Asked By Wiki User
Does Jerry Seinfeld have Parkinson's disease?
Asked By Wiki User
If you are 13 years old when were you born?
Asked By Wiki User
What is a hink pink 50 percent giggle?
Asked By Wiki User
How do you changer starter on a 1993 Geo Metro?
Asked By Wiki User
What are the flywheel bolt torque specs for a 1998 Geo Metro with an auto Tran?
Asked By Wiki User
How do you change an ac belt 2000 Chevy Metro 1.0?
Asked By Wiki User
2001 n issian engine startsbut idles rough?
Asked By Wiki User
Copyright © 2020 Multiply Media, LLC. All Rights Reserved. The material on this site can not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with prior written permission of Multiply.