On my '99 Grand Prix GTP SuperCharged. + Standing in front center of the car+ Remove the plastic cover+ On TOP, the back right hand corner, there is a small flat plate with 2 small bolts on it.+ Remove 2 bolts, lift up Plate and Gasket+ Remove Spring+ Remove PCV with O-ring+ Put O-ring on new PCV and put PCV back in hole + Put Spring back in hole on top of PCV+ Replace Gasket and Plate+ Tighten down the 2 bolts+ Put Plastic Cover back on and tighten nutNow drive it like you stole it!AnswerSome are on the valve covers and on some v8 and v6 they are located on the valve valley cover under the intake manifold. If you have carb just look for the 3/8" hose comming from the base of the carb. AnswerI don't write a good English sorryFor 3.1L and 2.8LIt is under map sensorThere are a picture in the front of your car look for. AnswerYes, in all cases the PCV valve is in between the top of your crankcase (the engine) and a hose connecting to air intake (after the air filter, before the throttle). (NO! NOT in all cases, the '99 Grand Prix GTP SuperCharged for example, it is not visible and there is no hose connecting it to the air intake)
This should be cleaned as often as oil is changed, not more than 3000 miles interval. Its hose should be cleaned also. Use carberator/air intake cleaning fluid to flush the parts out after removing them from the car. If there was sludge in them, they should be replaced with new ones.
It should be crystal clean, and you should hear the PCV valve clicking open and shut when you shake it.
These affect your engine performance, emissions, and fuel efficiency (which gives you both horsepower and gas milage!)
They stopped making Pontiac in 2010
One would first need to test the HUD, the HUD dimmer switch, related wiring as well as the IP Cluster fuse. One of these items could be faulty. Another item to check for is the wiring harness around the A?C accumulator. The wiring harness on the 97-03 Grand Prix was known to rub out and ground against the metal accumulator, causing electrical concerns including those you mention. Repair the harness and make sure it is snug. Insulate it to protect from further damage.
I am 99.9% sure that it is the light sensor located on the HUD board. I had this same problem several times - simply requires removing the board and re-soldering the sensor. There is a great write up out there with step by step instructions on the web, check grandprix.net or do a search for fixing the Heads up display light sensor.3Courtesy of MACCPGP.com
Replacing the HUD Photodiode
by Bill Whitmer
Medium to Large Philips screwdriver
Very Small Flat Head screwdriver
T-15 Torx Bit or Driver
25w or less (not more!) Soldering Iron, with fine tip
Vacuum Desoldering Tool
Drill with 15/32" Bit
Small needle nose pliers
Very small amount of 1/8" diameter head shrink tubing.
2x PDB-C142-ND from www.digikey.com wired in series works well (these look like LED's but they aren't). They are $1.50 each. PDB-V106-ND appears to be almost identical to the original, but it is
a $7 non-stock item with a minimum order quantity of 8.
This write up is for cars where the HUD photodiode is bad and the
resoldering technique doesn't work.
Step 1: Remove HUD Pod from Dash
This can be done by raising the front of the HUD pod by about 1" then
pulling forward to release the quick clips. The quick clips can be tricky
to remove without losing them in the dash. The security LED and auto
headlight sensor simply twist out of their holder.
Step 2: Remove HUD from Dash
First unplug the blue connector from the left side of the HUD module.
Next remove the two Philips screws on the HUD module on the side closest
to the engine bay. The HUD should come out by pulling up on the side
closest to the steering wheel, it still has two quick clips holding it
down. Be careful not to scratch the dashboard when removing the HUD.
Step 3: Disassemble the HUD Module
Remove the four Torx T-15 Screws from the Top of the HUD Module. Remove
the ribbon Cable from the PCB, and the maroon two wire connector also.
Remove the PCB by pushing up on the two clips.
Step 4: Remove the Photodiode
Make sure the soldering iron is at full temperature. Desolder the joints
on the photodiode by heating them up with the soldering iron until they
melt, and using the vacuum desoldering tool while the joint is liquid.
Place the small flathead screwdriver between the photodiode and the PCB.
Again heat up each joint on the photodiode, and use the screwdriver to pry
the photodiode loose. Pry only a small amount on one joint at a time
until the photodiode comes loose, in order not to damage the PCB.
Step 5: Join the new photodiodes (only if using 2 PDB-C142-ND's in series)
The reason to use two photodiodes in series is that these only output .5v,
and the original photodiode outputs 1.00v, the original part number is
BPW21 from Vishay Semiconductor or Infineon, but I have been unable to
find a supplier for this part. Cut the positive (long) leg on one of the
new photodiodes, and cut the negative (short) leg on the other. Cut both
to about 1/4" long. Bend both cut legs 90 degrees. Solder the two cut
legs together. Cover the solder joint with a small amount of 1/8"
diameter heat shrink tubing. Cut the remaining two legs on the
photodiodes to about 1/4". It is very important to remember which one is
positive (originally long) and which one is negative (originally short.
Bend the remaining legs to match up with the photodiode holes on the PCB.
Step 6: Attach the new photodiodes to the PCB
You will need to remove the coating on the PCB where you will be
soldering, it cam be easily scraped off. Melt a small amount of solder in
the holes where the original photodiode was soldered, on the bottom (no
components) side of the PCB. The hole that is closest to the edge of the
PCB is negative, the innermost hole is positive. Attach the photodiodes
by placing the correct leg of the new photodiodes against the correct
hole on the top side of the PCB, and applying heat to the bottom side of
the PCB to melt the solder. Make sure the joint is good.
Step 7: Modify the top HUD module cover (only if using 2 PDB-C142-ND's in series)
The new photodiodes won't fit through the hole on the top cover for the
HUD module. Simply drill out the hole, I used a 15/32" drill bit.
Step 8: Reassemble everything
Put the PCB back in the HUD module, reconnect the two connectors, and
screw it back together. Put the HUD module back in the dash, reconnect
the connector, and put the two Philips screws back in. Now is a good time
to see if the HUD works properly. Replace the HUD pod, first reattach the
auto headlight sensor and security LED, the HUD pod simply presses into
Enjoy having a working HUD again!
Sense its a GT I am going to assume it has a 3100 engine and the PCV is under the intake. You can replce it but unless you have over 150000 miles on it you probably don't need to. They hardly ever give any problems on those cars. If I am not right about the engine let me know and i`ll give you the you need. Ray
On my '99 Grand Prix GTP SuperCharged. + Standing in front center of the car + Remove the plastic cover + On TOP, the back right hand corner, there is a small flat plate with 2 small bolts on it. + Remove 2 bolts, lift up Plate and Gasket + Remove Spring + Remove PCV with O-ring + Put O-ring on new PCV and put PCV back in hole + Put Spring back in hole on top of PCV + Replace Gasket and Plate + Tighten down the 2 bolts + Put Plastic Cover back on and tighten nut. I would change it(PCV) out every time I changed the oil. PCV's only cost about $2.50 and keeps your car motor from building up too much pressure and keeps your car from getting oil leaks. Also I personally use Mobil 1 oil. Now drive it like you stole it! Dexter
Every Grand Prix GT I have ever seen had the 3800 engine in it, usually supercharged, that's why its called a GT. The standard run-of-the-mill SE models have the standard 3100 engine in them. BUT,...if you buy a car new, DIRECT FROM THE FACTORY, then a person could order their car with either engine! If you got the money to burn, a person could have General Motors drop a V8 in their SE or GT model
This is only "help". I had to have this done by AAA 3 years ago. First disconnect the battery. Then, you have to remove all that platic covering under the dash at that side, remove all the plastic covering the steering column, and there is the "switch", usually two nuts holding it, attached to the column, a plug with all the wires pertaining to "on-off", and a connecting rod to the ignition key up by the steering wheel. Be sure to disconnect the battery to avoid 60amps to your wrench. I hope you weren't asking how to replace the ignition key cylinder. That is simple, but another task. Use a drift pin or nail to push the release pin (inside a 1/8' dia. hole beside the key), release and remove the old cylinder. Usually the key will have to be in the cylinder to remove it. Reverse to install the new key/cylinder. Position is critical in inserting the new cylinder. It must be exactly as the old one. And obviously, the old key will not work, unless you take the new cylinder to a locksmith to be rekeyed to your old key.
There is much more to this than can be described here. I recommend that you buy a copy of Haynes repair manual #38010 since it has a pretty good description of the process and some helpful pictures.
Try changing the fuel filter. I have a 1984 Mustang with 3.8L V6. On some older cars you tend to accumulate a lot of crud in bottom on fuel tank. And when you get to about 1/4 tank some of it comes up. I changed 2 filters in less than 6 weeks and have not had the problem again. Take a look at the motor mounts. I had a car that would stall when put in drive and while looking at it, when i shifted into gear the motor would tilt forward or back, some wires were being pinched off shorting out and causing the engine to stall when put into drive. If it shakes violently when it dies it is most likey your transmission. It happened to my Dodge.
The idler pulley is the tensioner for the serpentine belt. To loosen it, do the following... - Notice the bolt in the centre of the idler pulley. Find the appropriate socket. - Using your rachet (set to loosen) put the socket on the bolt so that the rachet handle is pointing towards the windsheild. - Push down on the rachet handle. The tensioner will give slack to the belt. (careful because it is under spring tension) - While holding the tensioner down slip the belt off. Gently allow the tensioner to spring back slowly until it stops.
On a 1996 Grand Marquis there are 4 oxygen sensors. 2 (1 on each bank) are mounted before the front catalysts near the manifold-->cat-pipe flange. These are the HEGOS or Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor. These are the primary o2s and are what help the PCM determine the correct A/F ratio. There are another 2 directly after the fisrt set (1 on each bank) of catalysts moutned on the exhaust piping between the two catalysts on each bank. The primary goal of these is to monitor the catalysts' effieceincy. In summary: 4 o2 sensors in all 2 are the upstream/HEGOS o2s 2 the downstream o2s 4 cat-convertors in all
The 2005 Grand Prix Base model and GT models have 3.8L's and the GXP models have the 5.3L V8. I know the location on the 3.8L.
- Take the engine cover off
- Look at the very top of the motor, the intake manifold.
- There are fuel rails running over the top of this manifold.
- There is a bolt holding 2 of the rails in place right in the middle.
- To the bottom right of this bolt is the PCV valve.
- It has two bolts holding it in and no lines running to it.
I recently changed the front pads on my 2000 GT, and if yours are like mine, you will find that both the inside and outside pads are exactly the same. The only real difference is where you put the retainer clips on the pads. put the early warning tab on the in side so you can hear it.
It's quite easy.You have to disconect the battery first.Then go under the car and the starter is located where the engine meets the transmission.There are only 2 bolts.They are straight up and down.Take the bolts out and the starter will drop(will not fall all the way out).Then disconect the wires.Now the fun part you have to get it out of the engine compartment.To do this you have to just keep trying different angles until it comes out.Then to re-install just reverse the process.It is very important to disconect the battery before you do anything(Risk of sever electric shock).
The specs call for a 16" wheel, but sometimes you see them for 17" or more. It depends on the model and what previous owners have done for it. Typically, they are a 16" alloy wheel
Hey Paul==Look under the dash on the left side of the steering column. GoodluckJoe I just had to replace mine & there is actually one by the brake & another one attached to the column. It's an either or problem. Try the other one if the first one doesn't work. :) Jenny D. It is underneath the dash on the passenger side. It and the power center for the blower are behind a plastic cover.
Under the dash, driver's side. More specifically, it's on the side of the dash on the drivers side facing the door .... it's not underneith.
I have both a 94 and 96 GP BOTH HAVE IT. can't go very far without one.Answerthere is no PVC valve on 3.1l grand prix.Poss.came out with the vavle in 95 or 96. AnswerI have a 93 Pontiac grand prix And my pcv valve is on the Rear valve cover. akiller3
Mine is on the front valve cover with 1/2" rubber hose attached to it.AnswerIt is in the intake manifold. There should be a hose going to the throttle body from it. AnswerWhen you replace it, be very careful. The rubber grommet on mine fell into the intake when I pushed the valve in. It is not easy to remove.
I'm not exactly sure who said there was no PCV valve and that it came out in 95. What an idiot. There has been some sort of PCV valve system on vehicle engines for decades. I'm sure someone may know better than I, but I think the last engines made without a PCV valve were the old flat head engines built in the 40s. There is most definitely a valve on your engine. It is on the rear valve cover towards the driver side. It is a little difficult to get to....and to get out....but I assure you it is there.
It is on the top back of the engine; there is a 3/4" rubber hose coming from underneath the air intake plenum/manifold that connects to it. Unless you have very small hands you will need to tilt the engine forward to reach it.
Owner's manual. Check out the following website to unlock your radio. http://www.oqcgp.com/forum/kb.php?mode=article&k=53 Hope this helps. "G"
first you wanna drain cooling system of course, you need to remove the four bolts off the water pump pully, it's better to loosen them up when the belt is still on.Then remove serp. belt by using a regular 3\8 rachet on the tensioner. Remove the water pump pully.Then with a paint stick mark where the position of the pump is because you can move the pump to any position but it will only blot up one way.Remove the five water pump bolts,(they are 8mm bolts) then remove water pump.
You must replace the crankshaft sensor very carefully. There is a small bolt that holds it in place on the back side of the engine,(usually an 8mm socket does the trick)you can access that bolt by reaching under the car between the transmission and the engine. when that bolt is out you must twist and pull the sensor at the same time. If you have a problem getting it out you can use a screwdriver to start to pry it out but becareful not to break it. If you break it and it is still in the engine block you will need to drop the oil pan and pound it out from the bottom.
I may sound crazy, but i had an easier time with the sensor after i removed the coolant tank, the alternator and the alternator mounting bracket. You will get an almost straight shot from above especially if you jack the engine up a few inches. Though it is best to spot its position from the bottom so you know where to put your hand.
You need to get the haynes manual for it.
It shows detailed pictures as well as steps to follow.
They have it at most stores like Canadian tire.
If your fan control speed #1 stops working and then #2 stops working I believe it is the blower motor modual it is sometimes called blower motor resistor block.It is behind the fan motor , up under the passenger side of the dash and against the firewall. If you are looking underneath the dash, you will see a little black box in the position I described. It is being held in by 3 or 4 gold hex screws that are (I believe) .25'. Its not the fan motor control switch ....return that $165.00 part .....the blower motor modual is about $25 if you get it wholesale. These parts are usually not in stock and have to be imported from the Czech Republic, so order early.
left side (Drivers Side) 1357 left side 2468 right firing order 18436572 Fan ---0--- 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Year for year....yes. If the engine you are replacing is a V6 then it should be a fairly direct swap. May have to change computers or programming. If you are replacing a 4 cylinder it will be much more difficult as you'll have to replace all the engine wiring and computer to do it.
The fuse box is located behind the metal plate directly below the instrument panel. There are three notches that hold it in place. The metal plate must be pushed in and pulled down.
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